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Serviceberry TLC
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 31 - 10:56 pm
- My service berry tree has split bark in several places and there may be insects in the bark. There are many yellow leaves. The tree doesnât look healthy. I planted it in the fall. Is there anything I can do to save it?
- Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your serviceberry tree is experiencing some stress, but weâll do our best to help you support its recovery. Yellowing leaves can indicate a few things: transplant shock, water stress, or even nutrient deficiency. This is common in newly planted trees as they adjust to their environment. Split bark can also be a sign of environmental stress like rapid temperature changes in winter (known as frost cracks or sunscald), mechanical injury (e.g., weed trimmers or animals), and overwatering or underwatering. Unfortunately, splits in the bark can make the tree more susceptible to insect or disease invasion. If you see insects, they may be opportunists rather than the primary cause. What You Can Do: Inspect the trunk: Look closely at any insects you find. If you can, take a clear photo to try to ID. Mulch properly: Place a 2â3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it a few inches away from the trunk) to regulate soil temperature and moisture. Water consistently: Deeply water once a week during dry periods. Avoid overwateringâserviceberries prefer moist but well-drained soil. Prune carefully: Remove any obviously dead or damaged branches, but avoid heavy pruning during stress periods. Avoid fertilizer for now: Wait until the tree is more stable before fertilizing. It may take some time for your serviceberry to bounce back, but with proper care and monitoring, it could still recover. We wish you the best! For more information, check out: https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/serviceberry/
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Speaker Request
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 24 - 7:23 pm
- Hello. My alumnae organization is looking for a speaker for a zoom or possibly in-person meeting Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 7:00. We were thinking the topic could be planting native species but are open to suggestions. Thanks in advance for your response.
- Hello! Thank you so much for thinking of the Richmond Master Gardeners for this opportunity. We always enjoy getting the chance to share information about planting native! I'll follow up with an email to you to get a little more information and see what we can coordinate.
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Planting Natives in Yard
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 22 - 10:05 am
- Hello! I moved into a new home in the past year and my yard is pretty much a blank slate. I love a flower-filled garden, but my yard is almost entirely shade due to an extraordinary, 100+ year old Tulip Poplar. Do you have any suggestions for flowers or colorful plants that would thrive in my shady yard? I am interested in keeping my yard native. Thank you!
- Hello Bethany! How exciting to have a yard that is a blank slate to fill with native plants! One resource I will share with you is https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives This guide gives you a wealth of information about native plants and landscaping. I'll also reach out to you via e-mail to see if we can connect with you more to provide more specific recommendations.
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Extension Turf Grass program
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Date Posted: Fri, Jul 18 - 1:26 am
- Status of turf program. Sent in $45.00 In may/ june with no confirmation so far.
- Hello! The Richmond Master Gardeners are not connected with a turf program. And I'm not personally familiar with the city of Richmond offering one, especially since the city has been without an extension agent for the last several years. I would be curious to know what address you sent it to. I was able to find that Henrico does offer a program, but that it is unfortunately suspended this year: https://henrico.ext.vt.edu/programs/anr/smartlawns.html I can try to help you find a resolution. Please email RVAmastergardeners@gmail.com with the address you used and any other information you have available and I will see if I can help you get some answers. Thank you!
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Preparing new garden beds for planting
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 15 - 10:50 pm
- I need to landscape front garden beds. whatâs best to place on top of area for two months. Are tarps weighed down w/bricks okay? Arborist chips clean? Iâm old so I want something easy/low maintenance. Planning on native perennials and grasses, a few shrubs/service berry.
- Thank you for your question! It sounds like you're off to a great start with a thoughtful plan for a low-maintenance, native landscape. Both of the options you suggested are great ideas for prepping your beds for planting. 1. Tarps: Yes, tarps weighed down with bricks or secured with lawn staples can work well to smother weeds and prevent new growth before planting. This method is known as "occultation." Itâs easy, effective, and doesn't require much labor. Just make sure the tarp is opaque and tightly secured to prevent wind from getting underneath. I have personally had success with using black plastic and lawn staples, and am able to re-use the black plastic when I'm ready to expand the garden. 2. Arborist Wood Chips: Fresh arborist chips are also a great option, especially for a native planting. They help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and gradually improve soil as they break down. Itâs fine to apply them now even if theyâre âgreenâ (fresh)âjust keep them 3â6 inches deep and avoid piling them right against any existing stems or trunks. You can combine both methods too: tarp the area now, then remove the tarp and add arborist chips once youâre ready to plant. Native perennials, grasses, and a few shrubs like serviceberry are perfect choices for a low-maintenance, pollinator-friendly garden. Once established, they should need minimal watering and upkeep. Happy gardening!
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Home Consult
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Date Posted: Mon, Jul 14 - 12:43 am
- Hi there! I am a first time homeowner trying to get a handle on our front and backyard. The previous owner was an arborist and master of the craft and I am doing my best to keep the garden afloat but I think I need some guidance! I would so love if someone could come out to help advise. Is that possible?
- Hi Athena, Thank you so much for reaching out to the Master Gardeners. How wonderful to have an established garden come with your new home! I will send you an email to get more information about the neighborhood you are in and what is currently growing in your garden so that I connect you with a Master Gardener. Keep an eye out for an e-mail from us!
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Pruning Oakleaf Hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Fri, Jul 11 - 12:54 am
- I have an oakleaf hydrangea that has grown too large for its spot in my yard here in Richmond. When is the best time to cut it back and should I cut its branches close to the trunk? Can it be encouraged to grow more vertically and not spread out horizontally?
- Thank you for your question about your oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)! I frequently walk past the ones Maymont has in their parking lot at the nature center and am always admiring how beautiful they are but they can indeed outgrow their space over time. Timing: The best time to prune oakleaf hydrangeas is shortly after they finish blooming, typically in late June through early August here in Richmond. These shrubs bloom on old wood, meaning they form next yearâs flower buds on stems grown the previous year. Pruning in late summer or fall will likely remove those buds and reduce flowering the following year. How to prune: Avoid cutting branches all the way back to the trunk. Instead, remove about 1/3 of the oldest, thickest stems at the base to encourage new growth and improve shape. You can also shorten some of the remaining stems to reduce overall size and guide the shapeâjust make cuts back to a bud or side branch. Encouraging vertical growth: Oakleaf hydrangeas naturally have a broad, spreading habit. While you canât dramatically change this growth pattern, you can encourage a more upright form by thinning out wide-angled branches and encouraging vertical shoots, selectively removing outward-growing stems to reduce width, and/or using light staking or support for young vertical stems if needed (though this is more effective in younger plants). If the space is truly too small for the mature size of your shrub, long-term, you might consider relocating it in the fall or early spring when itâs dormant. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Bitterness in Cucumbers
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 01 - 1:28 am
- I'm growing cucumbers for the first time this year, and so far have only harvested a few. They are heirloom straight 8 cucumbers I started from seed. I'm harvesting them at about 6 inches long. I cut the ends off when I slice them to avoid bitterness, but they still seem to taste quite bitter and soapy. I'm not spraying them with anything, and I was them well with water when I harvest them. What might be making them bitter?
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! Bitterness in cucumbersâespecially heirloom varieties like Straight 8âis a fairly common issue, although frustrating, and itâs usually due to the natural compounds called cucurbitacins. A few reasons you might be experiencing bitterness: First off, we have to think about environmental stress, especially given the extreme heat and big down pours we have been having. Cucurbitacin levels tend to rise when the plants are under stress and common stressors for cucumbers include: Inconsistent watering (periods of drought followed by heavy watering), high temperatures, and also poor soil fertility or nutrient imbalance. Straight 8 cucumbers tend to be prone to bitterness, especially in hot and dry conditions. Try to keep soil moisture even by watering regularly (especially during hot spells), and consider using mulch to conserve moisture and keep soil temps steady. There's a chance your cucumbers are sitting on the vine a little too long and getting a little overripe. If you notice any yellowing of the skin or a hard waxy exterior, they are likely getting a little too ripe. You could try harvesting a little sooner, maybe when they are 5 inches, to see if that helps. As you already seem to know, the bitter components are most concentrated at the the stem end, in the skin and just under the skin. In addition to trimming the end of off, you could try peeling the cucumbers. I've also heard of people soaking them in cold salted water for about 40 minutes once they are peeled. I haven't tried this myself, but I've heard it helps to reduce the bitterness. Their are some hybrid varieties that are bred to reduce bitterness. If none of the above ideas help you to reduce bitterness, you could try growing a hybrid variety next time and see if that helps. Good luck! We hope you are able to enjoy your cucumbers!
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Gardening Memorial
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Date Posted: Sat, Jun 21 - 9:46 pm
- My other recently died in Richmond. She was a lifelong gardener and member of Lewis Ginter botanical gardens. We her children would like to donate to a local project that would provide gardening access to kids and/or people with limited means or perhaps to a gardening section in the Richmond Public Library system. Lewis Ginter is only accepting contributions not something more tangible or lasting. Do you have any suggestions?
- Steven, I'm very sorry about your mother's passing. You all have a very thoughtful idea to honor her love of gardening and the Richmond community through a gift on her behalf. I'm happy to connect with you to share some ideas that I'm aware of and see is any of those resonate with what you all are looking for. I'll follow up with an email to connect more.
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Plant ID: Common Blue Violet (Viola sororia)
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Date Posted: Mon, Jun 09 - 7:29 pm
- Is this plant A weed Invasive
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! Based on the photo you shared, the plant appears to be Common Blue Violet (Viola sororia). While some gardeners consider it a weed due to its ability to spread vigorously, it is actually native to the eastern United States, including Virginia. Its spreading habit can be a challenge if you're aiming for a more controlled or manicured landscape. However, it also offers ecological benefits: it's a host plant for fritillary butterfly larvae, supports pollinators, and provides low-growing ground cover, especially in shady or naturalized areas.