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Blueberries and Lavender
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:37 pm
- Hello, I have 3 questions - I have blueberry bushes that were not properly tended to over the summer heat. They produced lovely berries but since have grown scraggly and I need to trim them back. Is there a proper time and way to do this? I have attempted several times to take cuttings and start new plants. Failed every time. Any suggestions? I have lavender plants in front of the blueberry bushes. They are half alive and half dead. Do I need to move them? I am thinking it is from the overgrowth of limbs from the blueberry bushes but not certain. I am presently in the tedious process of soaking the ground in the evenings and pulling the grass and weeds that surround them. I appreciate your help.
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! You have several great questions that we will do our best to give you some guidance on: 1. When to prune blueberry bushes: The best time to prune blueberries is in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing helps the bush recover and grow new shoots for the coming season. You could also have done some light pruning after harvesting, particularly if you noticed any dead or diseased branches. Regular, light pruning is usually better than infrequent, heavy pruning. Always make clean cuts and avoid leaving stubs, as these can become entry points for pests or diseases. 2. How to prune blueberry bushes: Start by cutting out any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. This helps improve air circulation and reduces the risk of pests and diseases. If the bush is very dense, selectively remove some of the older, thicker branches from the center of the plant to improve airflow and light penetration. This encourages better fruit development. Blueberry bushes produce the most fruit on new growth. Cut back older branches that are more than 6 years old to promote the growth of new, fruitful shoots. Aim for a well-rounded shape, which helps the bush maintain balance and supports better fruit production. Trim to keep the bush to a manageable size and shape, typically removing no more than a third of the plant's height in one season. During the growing season, you can also trim any overly vigorous shoots that might be crowding the plant, encouraging a more balanced structure. 3. Using cuttings to start new plants: The best time to take blueberry cuttings is from late summer to early fall when the wood is semi-hard but not yet fully mature. Choose cuttings from healthy, vigorous plants. Look for shoots that are not too old or too young. Ideally, the cuttings should be from the current season's growth and about 4-6 inches long. If possible, select shoots that haven't flowered, as they will have more energy to put into growing roots. - Preparing Cuttings: Make a clean cut just below a node (the point where leaves attach to the stem). This is where the roots are most likely to develop. Strip off the lower leaves, leaving a few at the top. This reduces moisture loss and encourages root growth. Although optional, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone can improve the chances of successful rooting. Rooting hormone is available in powder, gel, or liquid form. -Planting: Use a well-draining rooting medium like a mix of peat moss and perlite or sand. You can also use a commercial rooting mix. Insert the cuttings into the rooting medium about 1-2 inches deep. Firm the soil around them to ensure good contact. -Care: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water the cuttings gently to avoid displacing them. Cover the cuttings with a plastic bag or place them in a greenhouse or a propagation chamber to maintain high humidity. Ensure the cover does not touch the cuttings to avoid mold. Place the cuttings in a location with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can be too intense for young cuttings. -Transplanting: After about 8-12 weeks, check for root development by gently tugging on the cuttings. If you feel resistance, roots have formed. Rooting can take time, so be patient and avoid disturbing the cuttings too soon. Once roots are established, transplant the cuttings into small pots with a potting mix suitable for blueberries or a mix of peat and perlite. Gradually acclimate the young plants to outdoor conditions by exposing them to more light and outdoor temperatures over a couple of weeks. 4. Caring for lavender plants: Lavender plants can be a bit finicky, but several common issues could be causing them to struggle or die. Here are a few things to think about: Lavender needs well-draining soil. Heavy, clayey, or waterlogged soils can lead to root rot. Consider improving drainage by adding sand or gravel to the soil, or planting in raised beds or containers with good drainage. Lavender prefers slightly alkaline to neutral soil, ideally with a pH between 6.7 and 7.3. You can test your soil’s pH with a kit and amend it if necessary. Lavender is drought-tolerant and doesn’t like to sit in wet soil. Water sparingly and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause root rot and other issues. While lavender prefers less frequent watering, it still needs some moisture, especially in hot, dry conditions. Ensure it gets enough water during prolonged dry spells. Lavender requires full sun to thrive, which means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If it’s not getting enough light, it can become leggy and weak. Lavender generally prefers temperate climates. Extreme cold or heat can stress the plant Lavender doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer. Fungal diseases like root rot, powdery mildew, and rust can affect lavender. Ensure proper spacing for air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce disease risk. Lavender benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape and health. Prune after flowering to remove spent blooms and encourage new growth. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems, as they may not regenerate. Blueberries and lavender can be successfully planted together, but there are a few things to think about to ensure both plants thrive. Both blueberries and lavender prefer acidic to neutral soil. Blueberries thrive in a pH of 4.5 to 5.5, while lavender prefers a pH of around 6.7 to 7.3. This difference in pH requirements means you’ll need to find a balance or be prepared to amend the soil appropriately. Both plants need full sun to grow well. Ensure they receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Both plants require well-draining soil. Blueberries are prone to root rot in poorly drained soils, and lavender, though drought-tolerant, also dislikes wet feet. Blueberries need consistent moisture, especially during the growing season, whereas lavender prefers drier conditions and is more tolerant of drought. Overwatering can lead to issues for both plants, so careful watering practices are necessary. We hope this will give you some guidance for moving forward. Happy gardening!
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Planting sapling redbuds
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Date Posted: Thu, May 30 - 5:26 pm
- I have two sapling eastern redbuds. I have grown them from seed. Looking to plant them in my yard, what is the proper exposure and best time of year for them to thrive in the ground? Also how far apart should they be planted?
- How exciting! Redbuds are so beautiful, and what an accomplishment to grow them from seed. There are a couple of things to keep in mind when planting sapling redbuds- First, it is best to plant them on the smaller side as they don't enjoy being transplanted due to their long taproot. Second, the best time of year to plant many natives, including eastern redbuds, is the early fall after the heat of summer has passed. This allows the plant time to get established before winter and sets it up to really thrive the following year! An exception to this, is if you are planting in a space that closely mimics the redbud's natural environment. They are happiest with partial shade and in moist, well-drained soil. Whether you decide to plant now or early fall, keep them well mulched and watered as they for at least the first year as they get established. They should be planted at least 12 feet apart from each other to allow space for both to grow. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Composting - continued!
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Date Posted: Sun, Nov 12 - 5:36 pm
- I am very appreciative of the options you recommended for me to compost. I think I was not very clear in my question. I already know where to bring food scraps, and I already do bring food scraps for composting. My dilemma is where to bring dead plants. I have a tiny yard, and, therefore no space for a compost bin. Now that summer potted plants are dead, I need to know where to bring the large dead plants. Thanks
- I'm sorry my first answer did not give you the information you were looking for. I've reached out to a few others in our Master Gardener group but none of us have used a composting service specifically for large plants. I believe some of the suggestions I gave you may be able to take them, but the next steps would be to reach out them to ask.  I did try to reach out to Richmond Grows Gardens, but have not yet heard back from them. I have previously spoken with some of the ladies that work at the Bird House Farmers Market and she shared that the compost company that picks up their bins can compost anything and everything organic. At the time, I didnt ask specifically about large plants, but here is the email address for the company if you would like to reach out and ask:  info@nopeva.com I admire your determination for finding a good place to take these plants! I currently have a small pile in my back yard where they are breaking down, but it would be great to have other options available.  Hope this information helps you get to what you are looking for!
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Stunted vegetable garden
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Date Posted: Sat, Aug 12 - 6:55 pm
- My vegetable garden has been stunted in its growth this summer and I’ve been trying to figure out what I can do differently. I think we may have some Red Thread in the yard.
- I think many local vegetable gardens have experienced some stunting this year. The prolonged cooler weather we had at the beginning of the summer seemed to have a big impact on plants that were put in the ground in late April and May. In addition, we have had several periods with very little rain to help keep gardens watered which has also been having an impact. Before planting next year, its a good idea to do a soil test to see where your soil could use some support. Soil tests are available through the master gardeners at your local library. You can use these results to ensure you are planting in a robust healthy soil that is ready to provide a good home to your plants. Also, if you aren't already doing this, I would suggest fertilizing your garden with an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizers slowly release nutrients giving a steady supply of food to your plants without disrupting the work of earthworms and other beneficial organisms. Follow the recommendations on the label for frequency of fertilizing. I'm not aware of nor have I been able to find any literature on red thread having an impact on anything other than turf grass. I'm not sure if you mentioned that in correlation with your concerns about your vegetable garden or as a separate concern. However, if you were looking for recommendations to deal with the red thread as well, fungicides are not usually advised for red thread control on residential turf for various reasons. The disease is largely cosmetic. Unless environmental conditions that promote disease development persist for extended periods, the turf will recover — usually with no lasting effects of infection. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Allium Leaf Miner
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Date Posted: Sun, May 28 - 8:55 pm
- I think I might have allium leaf miner in a few of my overwintered leeks. I took pictures, video and saved a sample in a ziplock bag containing the reddish brown egg. I’m not particularly worried about the crop but wasn’t sure if I should contact you since it’s a relatively new invasive pest. It seemed like covering and exclusion measures will be my best bet going forward. Thanks!
- I'm sorry to hear your leeks have been hit by the allium leaf miner. There are a few prevention techniques to consider going forward. 1. Solarization. The garden bed can be covered with clear plastic for four weeks over the summer, being sure to bury the edges so heat is trapped. Solarization will kill allium leaf miner pupae, decrease soil pathogens, and increase beneficial microbes. 2. Rotation Planting. Refrain from planting members of the allium family in the same bed for one year or longer since the pupae will overwinter in the bed. 3. Cover crops. Consider planting members of the cabbage family in the bed prior to planting allium. The sulfur produced by the cabbage crops will transfer to your allium making them more pungent and less desirable to the fly. Another benefit is that brassica plants decrease the amount of nitrogen available in the soil which is beneficial as flies are more drawn to high levels of nitrogen in plants. 4. As you have already mentioned, row covers. Cover the plants at planting time in the fall (September/October) and remove for the winter. Plants will need to be covered again for the spring (March/April) before overwintering pupae emerge. Since the allium leaf miner is very small, it's important to be sure the edges of your covers are pinned down well or buried. Thank you for reporting this finding so the spread of allium leaf miner can be monitored and best of luck with your future plants!
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Starting a new garden
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Date Posted: Sat, Mar 25 - 4:25 pm
- Hi! I live off of N 18th St. and my apartment building has a very large bed that has been empty for a while and that I would like to start growing in (herbs and vegetables). I plan to come pick up a soil kit to test the current soil in the bed. Is that a first step you'd recommend? After testing the soil, are there specific veggies and herbs you'd recommend for the climate/area we're in? Are there any recommended local places that I could get starters and/or transplants? I also have read that I'll likely need to turn the soil to loosen it up. Welcome suggestions. Thanks! - Marg
- Hello Marg, Nice to hear you're interested in growing food. My first question/concern is if you have cleared this project with the owners or property manager of the apartment you're living in. That would be the first item on the check list. After that, testing the soil is a necessary step. Then, depending on the results, you would add any needed amendments. You can never go wrong by adding compost to the bed. Compost is a good addition because it can lighten heavy soils and enrich sandy soils. As far as what to plant, that would really depend on what you want to plant. I would make a list of desired vegetables and herbs and then see what zone they are appropriate for. Your basic tomatoes, zucchini, basil and parsley will do fine here. The important thing is to check the zone and maturity dates for whatever you are planting. If you want to plant spinach or lettuce or similar greens be aware that they like cool temperatures so they'll need a head start. When it gets too hot they will "bolt" or go to seed and be done for the summer planting season. You can pull them and replace them with a heat-loving vegetable. They can also be planted again as a fall crop when the weather starts to cool a bit. You can find seedlings at most garden centers. I think that Lowe's, Home Depot and similar stores offer some organic seedlings. I would check about both types of stores to see if they offer what you want to plant. Please check out the Master Gardeners who man the help desks at your local library. Check in with the library to see what days and times the gardeners are available. They will give you a wealth of information and advice. Also, if you go to the Main Library there is a seed bank (in an old card catalog) near the indoor entrance. The availability of seeds waxes and wanes but it's worth a try! Good luck with your project. Happy gardening!
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Camellia Pruning
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Date Posted: Thu, Mar 02 - 4:57 pm
- We have a camelia bush in our front yard that is as old as our house. It’s probably 25 ft wide at its widest. It’s in desperate need of a trim, but I have no idea how to do that! I don’t want To harm the bush at all, but I know it needs to be trimmed. I can provide pictures if helpful!
- Hello there, so you have a very happy camellia on your hands. I'm going to guess it's a japanese camellia, flowering from mid-winter to early spring. The other popular variety is camellia sasanqua, which flowers in late summer, fall or early winter (depending on selection) and is generally smaller and looser than the japanese varieties. Either way you want to wait until after the plant blooms to prune (otherwise you'll miss the bloom period). Of course, if that isn't you uppermost concern and you just want to get it under control, then anytime can work. I'm attaching an article from Southern Living magazine that describes a pruning method I think will work for you. The method basically treats the shrub as a tree which would decrease your time and effort of trying to prune such a large plant back to shrub proportions. Here is the article. The last paragraph is the key. https://www.southernliving.com/garden/shrubs/when-to-prune-camellias As always use sharp clean pruners and pruning saws so disease isn't transferred to the new cuts you'll be making. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Vegetable pests
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Date Posted: Fri, Oct 07 - 9:01 pm
- Pole Beans: I planted (for the first time) some cold hardy plants at the end of summer. My pole beans grew in strong, but are now being decimated -- the leaves are bubbly and stems are severed. Some leaves have been chewed. I have been out there multiple times at various points in the day and I can't see anything. I put some sticky yellow bug catchers out there and it caught some tiny little flies and a small Beatle, but something else is still killing my vegetable. Vine Borer - Squash - Yes I had them and they killed my zucchini and spaghetti squash. I hear they overwinter. I planted several other squash plants after the annihilation of my squash (before I found out they stick around). They got 50% -- the others survived only because I covered the stem with foil to prevent the critters from entering. But, how do I extinguish them? Last question: I had two tomato issues. 1. some look like Chinese paper lanterns, with nothing inside of them, just a fragile green shell of a tomato. 2. Lots of blooms, lots of pollinators visiting, no tomatoes. You are probably thinking 'just give up gardening' - but I'm hoping to learn, so I can do better next year. Thank you. Julie
- Dear Julie, You've had a tough summer! Actually, the summer was pretty hard on many living things. I'm going to start with your tomato question first. I'm wondering what type of tomato you planted? I've never come across an issue like this so I have to wonder about the seed or transplant you used. It sounds like it's a tomatillo, rather than tomato. In regard to the non-fruiting issue, I have to wonder about when you planted the tomato, did you plant so that tomatoes would have enough time to mature? Some tomatoes require a longer time to mature and fruit. There are varieties like Early Girl which may be a better bet for you if you're planting a little later or you simply want an earlier crop when planted at the appropriate time. Those are my best guesses. Squash vine borers are tough to deal with. Organic controls for squash vine borers include growing resistant varieties-butternut or the italian heirloom summer squash-tromboncino (a vigorous vining variety), crop rotation is critical, using row covers, passive traps, and surgical removal. The beans may be affected by mexican bean beetles. It's hard to say and I'm not sure why the leaves are bubbled, could be a blight? I'm attaching a document from the VA Tech extension website. There is a good summary of tips on vegetable gardening. I think you will find it useful-- https://ext.vt.edu/lawn-garden/home-vegetables.html You seem like a very observant and dedicated gardener, those are the best qualities for good results. Do not give up!! Best of luck!
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Pruning Hydrangea
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Date Posted: Fri, Feb 18 - 12:22 am
- how far back can i cut my hydraingia
- Hello there, The first question I have is: why do you want to prune your hydrangea? The main reasons for pruning are that the plant is either too large or there is dead or possibly diseased wood that needs to be removed. The other question I have is what type of hydrangea are you thinking of pruning? There are numerous types and various species. I am going to assume that the plant in question is what is commonly known as a bigleaf hydrangea (because those seem to be the most prevalent variety). These typically have the mop-headed type of bloom or a lacecap bloom. Older varieties of these will only bloom on old wood but many of the newer varieties bloom on both old and new wood. The reason this distinction is important is that if you have a plant that blooms on old wood and you prune those stems you will be robbed of blooms come summer (you will have cut them off). That would be a shame. If you're not sure if you have a new or old variety, it is best to approach pruning very carefully. Attached is a link from a VA Tech publication with photos of both old and new stems so you can see the difference. Look for the heading in the publication that says Bigleaf Hydrangea and then scroll to the photo of the plant in winter to see which stems should be cut. While you are looking at the publication, review the other types of hydrangeas listed to be certain about the type you have. https://chesapeake.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/chesapeake_ext_vt_edu/files/pruning-hydrangeas.pdf. While you are pruning stems be sure to cut any that look dead or diseased. Clean your pruners after cutting diseased stems. Please keep in mind that you may not need to prune your hydrangea. If you enjoy the size it currently is and it doesn't seem to have any dead wood, you've saved yourself a gardening chore. Happy gardening!
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Transplanting Hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Fri, Nov 05 - 1:58 pm
- I have hydrangeas in a partial sun location, mostly afternoon, and they have never done very well with adequate watering and fertilization If I’m going to move them to a new location, what scenario should they be in and are there any specific times that are better to move them?
- Greetings! Thank you for your question. Now is a great time to transplant your hydrangeas (Fall season), while the plants are dormant. Plant your hydrangeas in an area that gets morning sun, and afternoon shade. Hydrangeas do not like the hot afternoon sun we have here in Richmond in the summer months, and that may be why they have not done well in their current location. When you transplant, be sure and select a location that will drain well, and amend your soil with plenty of compost. Be sure and dig the hole large enough to accommodate the entire root ball. Water the hydrangea well once you place it in the new location. As you know, hydrangeas love to be watered in the warmer months, and they love nutrient-rich, composted soil. If they are planted near larger plants or trees, they may be competing for water during the warm months, and it will be important to keep them moist (but well drained). Good luck with your fall gardening!