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Hydrangea Pruning
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Date Posted: Wed, Jun 04 - 1:52 am
- Hello! My hydrangeas need some help. I inherited them with my new to me house in late fall, so this spring was my first opportunity to prune. They were already overgrown from the past owners. For the big leaf hydrangeas: I missed the fall pruning, so these haven't had a haircut since who knows when. The branches are getting weighed down from the weight of the flower and leaves, and the plant is very leggy. Should I try and start selectively and slowly clipping them back now or wait until they're done blooming and do it one big chop? If now, do I cut the old leggy wood back, or just the new green branches that are stemming from the old leggy wood (the two blooms on the top of the left bush are an example)? For the panicle hydrangea in the middle: I cut what I thought was way back this spring, but clearly not enough! Should I be trying to selectively trim some of this back now or bite the bullet and wait until spring and do a big chop? It's so tall and it's only May! Thank you!
- Thanks for reaching out—and congratulations on your new home and garden! It sounds like you’re giving your hydrangeas some thoughtful attention, which they’ll definitely appreciate. The blooms are beautiful! Here’s a breakdown of how to approach pruning both your bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) and your panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata): Bigleaf Hydrangeas : These bloom on old wood, meaning the flower buds for this summer formed last year. That’s why heavy spring pruning can often result in fewer blooms. Since yours are blooming now, I'd recommend that you hold off on major pruning until after they finish flowering—typically by mid to late summer. Then you can: Remove about 1/3 of the oldest, leggiest stems at the base to encourage new growth from the bottom and lightly shape the plant by shortening stems that look untidy or weighed down. Avoid pruning after August, however, as that risks cutting off next year’s flower buds. In the meantime, if any branches are flopping badly or blocking paths, you can do a light, selective trim now—just avoid heavy cuts that remove flower buds. Panicle Hydrangeas: These bloom on new wood, so you have more flexibility with timing. You’re absolutely right that they can grow quickly in spring! For now, you can lightly thin or shorten a few of the tallest stems to maintain a more manageable shape but avoid cutting more than 1/3 of the plant this time of year. If it’s still too tall for your space, plan for a more significant structural pruning next late winter/early spring, before new growth starts. General Tips: Always cut just above a pair of healthy buds or a leaf node. Use clean, sharp pruners to avoid disease. Consider adding mulch and checking soil drainage if plants look stressed or leggy—bigleaf hydrangeas especially like evenly moist (but not soggy) soil.
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Pruning a dwarf apricot tree
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Date Posted: Thu, May 08 - 11:20 pm
- We have a dwarf apricot tree in our backyard near our privacy fence (designated by purple arrow in photo). Unfortunately, one of the medium size limbs at the top has stretched over our privacy fence into our neighbor’s yard. I want to but the limb but I’m nervous about damaging the tree since it’s spring time. Would it be okay to cut it at this time of year?
- Thanks for your question about pruning your dwarf apricot tree. It’s totally understandable to want to manage the limb growing into your neighbor’s yard, and you’re right to think carefully about timing. While late winter or early spring (before bud break) is generally the best time to prune apricot trees, light or selective pruning—even now in late spring—is okay, especially if it’s necessary to maintain boundaries or reduce potential damage. Just keep a few tips in mind to minimize stress on the tree: -Use clean, sharp tools to make a clean cut just outside the branch collar (the slightly swollen area where the limb connects to the trunk or larger branch). -Avoid removing more than 10–15% of the tree’s total canopy during the growing season. -Try to prune on a dry day to reduce the risk of fungal infections entering the fresh cut. If you only need to remove one medium-sized limb, your apricot tree should tolerate it well—especially if it's otherwise healthy. Make sure to monitor the tree through the season for any signs of stress (like leaf drop or dieback) and water consistently during dry spells.
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Rhododendron Questions
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Date Posted: Thu, May 08 - 11:14 pm
- I have an established rhododendron and a couple of questions 1. Some leaves tern yellow and die and fall off 2. Others show yellowing but remain 3. New shoots form at the base but die never to mature 4 is there any way to encourage new growth on the old branches
- Thanks for reaching out with your rhododendron questions! You’ve made some great observations, and your plant is definitely trying to tell you something. Here are a few possible explanations and tips based on what you described: Yellowing and Leaf Drop: Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal, especially for older inner leaves. However, widespread or early-season yellowing in Richmond can also point to stress from heat or underlying root issues, particularly since rhododendrons are naturally cool-climate, understory plants. Our warm springs and hot summers can make them more susceptible to systemic diseases or environmental stress. Persistent Yellow Leaves: This could be a sign of sun stress—rhododendrons prefer morning sun with dappled afternoon shade. Too much direct, hot afternoon sun can cause the kind of yellowing you're seeing. Poor drainage or soil that’s too alkaline can also cause nutrient uptake issues, leading to chlorosis (leaf yellowing). New Shoots Dying Back: When new shoots at the base fail to mature, it often points to root zone stress, such as poor drainage, fungal root diseases, or heat stress. Check that mulch isn't piled too high against the base and that the soil is staying moist but not soggy. Encouraging New Growth on Old Branches: Yes! Light pruning in early spring, just after flowering, can stimulate new growth. Avoid heavy pruning all at once; instead, gradually thin out leggy or unproductive branches over time. Make cuts just above a healthy bud or leaf whorl to encourage branching. Good luck with your rhododendron!
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Growing Elderberries
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 12 - 12:43 pm
- Hello! I was just gifted a native elderberry and I'm looking for some advice. I also plan to get another one so they can bear fruit. I've been watching tons of videos but they all seem contradictory! I live in Richmond (Battery Park) with an urban yard - it's a bit bigger than typical row house size, and bordered by a shared fence on each side. I have a few areas to plant the elderberry where it will get at least 8 hours of full sun a day. My concern is that I want to keep the bush somewhat contained - I know they can grow quite large, but is there a way to prune it so it stays under 7-8 feet but still bears fruit? And, do you have any advice on how to stay on top of root suckers? I'm not sure how far the suckers will travel, but if they head into my neighbors yard I obviously wouldn't be able to see the sprout to know where to cut the root. I also heard the roots are quite hardy, so I'm trying to consider whether to plant near a retaining wall. In the videos I'm watching the plants all seem pretty naturally contained (versus something like blackberry which gets out of control), but I want to do everything I can to help out. Hoping I can make this work! I appreciate any advice you have. If helpful, I can send a photo of my backyard. Thank you, Julie
- What a lovely gift! I hope this will be something you are able to enjoy for years to come. And you are right! You will need a second one for cross pollination. We don't typically think of elderberries being wildly invasive, so I'd expect with your awareness of the need to keep an eye out for suckers, and your desire to prune it to keep it at a reasonable size, you will be pleased with your elderberry. A couple of pruning tips: Once the plant is established (after year 1 or 2), you can cut back about 1/3 of the oldest stems to the ground each year to encourage new growth. To keep overall height in check, you can also cut the remaining stems back to your desired height (just above strong buds). Many gardeners cut stems to about 3–4 feet in early spring, which results in a bush that finishes around 6–8 feet tall by summer. Managing suckers: You’re right—elderberries do sucker from the roots and can spread over time, though they are usually less aggressive than blackberries. The suckers typically emerge within a few feet of the main plant, though they can travel farther in ideal conditions. To manage them, check around the base of the plant regularly during the growing season and cut suckers at the soil line or dig back to the root and clip at the source. You might also consider planting your elderberries in a root barrier ring—digging a trench and installing landscape edging 12–18" deep around the planting area to contain the roots. Planting near a retaining wall: Elderberry roots aren’t known for damaging structures like a retaining wall, but they are persistent. If you're concerned about suckers creeping into a neighbor’s yard or through shared fences, planting 3–5 feet away from those boundaries is a good buffer. That space also makes it easier to walk around the plant and manage pruning or harvesting. Hope this helps as you decide where to plant! Best of luck to you! Hope you will enjoy your elderberries for years to come.
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Finding Natives for a tough spot
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 17 - 4:33 pm
- Hello! We have a particularly difficult section of our garden in Richmond: it's a sloped spot between the driveway and the house, faces south, has pretty lousy soil, and is shaded by nearby oak tree. The only thing that we've been able to grow there is rosemary; everything else we've tried hasn't made it. Are there any native perennials that might survive?
- That sounds like a tricky spot, but there are some native perennials that could thrive in those conditions! Given that the area is south-facing but shaded, has poor soil, and is on a slope, you'll need plants that are drought-tolerant, shade-tolerant, and able to handle soil erosion. Here are some great Virginia native perennials that might work: Low-Maintenance Shrubs American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) – Handles some shade and poor soil, and has striking purple berries in fall. Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) – Tolerates shade and provides late fall yellow blooms. Perennials for Shade & Dry Conditions Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) – A beautiful, drought-tolerant flower that does well in partial shade. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) – A tough native with lovely pinkish-purple flowers in spring. Golden Ragwort (Packera aurea) – Great for erosion control and pollinators, with bright yellow flowers in spring. Ornamental Grasses (For Texture & Erosion Control) Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Drought-tolerant and provides great fall color. (A favorite of mine!) Bottlebrush Grass (Elymus hystrix) – A native grass that thrives in dry shade. Since rosemary has survived, that suggests it’s well-drained soil, possibly a bit alkaline due to the concrete driveway. You may need to amend the soil with compost to help native plants establish, but once they do, they should require little maintenance.
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Wildflower Seedballs
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Date Posted: Fri, Mar 14 - 12:46 pm
- My club, at VCU will be hosting a seed ball making event next week Monday! We were hoping to use wildflowers and other small foliage that should grow with wildflowers native to the capital region. could you share knowledge or knowledge of resources with us? Maybe where we could acquire seeds for cheap/nothing as well as tips on how to go about planting the seed balls?
- Hosting a seed ball-making event is a fantastic initiative to promote native wildflowers and support local ecosystems in the Richmond area. Here's some guidance to help your club prepare: 1. Selecting Native Wildflower Seeds: Choosing species native to Virginia ensures that the plants are well-adapted to the local environment and provide optimal benefits to pollinators and other wildlife. Consider incorporating the following native wildflowers into your seed balls: Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa): A perennial that serves as a host plant for monarch butterflies and blooms from April to September. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta): A versatile plant that can be annual, biennial, or perennial, attracting birds like the American goldfinch and blooming between June and October. Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa): This perennial attracts butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds, with blooms from June to September. Smooth Blue Aster (Symphyotrichum laeve): A perennial that serves as a host plant for the pearl crescent butterfly, blooming from August to October. 2. Acquiring Seeds at Low or No Cost: Virginia Native Pollinator Seed Packets: The Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources offers seed packets containing native wildflowers suitable for various regions in Virginia. These mixes are designed to benefit pollinators and enhance local biodiversity. Seed Libraries: In the fall, the Master Gardeners collected many native seeds from the Amelia Street Urban Forest and shared them in the seed library at the Main Branch Richmond Public Library. I haven't checked back recently, but you are welcome to use whatever is left there! There are many other seed libraries around the city, some may have wildflower seeds in them VCU Office of sustainability: If you are not already connected with them, they would potentially be a good resource for helping you source free or low cost seeds. 3. Tips for Making and Planting Seed Balls: This website has two great recipes for making seed balls, one using paper as a base, and the other using soil and flour: https://chicagocommunitygardens.org/2020/04/22/for-earth-day-or-any-day-make-a-seed-bomb/ For planting tips, this will ultimately depend on what seeds you end up getting. Some seeds do best getting planted in the fall in order to go through a cold stratification. And others will be successful if planted this spring. Seed balls can be placed on soil just before rain and the precipitation will help distribute them into the soil and aid in germination. 4. Additional Resources: Plant Virginia Natives (pantvirginianatives.org): This initiative provides comprehensive information on native plants, including where to purchase them and guidance on creating pollinator-friendly habitats. Keep Virginia Beautiful (keepvirginiabeautiful.org): This organization offers resources and initiatives aimed at enhancing Virginia's natural and scenic environment, including distributing wildflower seed packets to promote beautification and support pollinators. Good luck with your seed ball making event! We will keep an eye out around the city for more native flowers to pop up :)
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Growing Herbs
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 03 - 11:09 pm
- How to grow healthy Herb plant? Plants like Basil, cilantro, Rosemarys.
- Growing herbs is so rewarding! I love having what I need for a recipe growing outside the back door! Basil, cilantro, and rosemary each have their own needs, so here’s a quick guide to help them thrive: Basil: Loves warmth and the sun and needs at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, prefers well-draining, nutrient-rich soil, keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy — water when the top inch feels dry, pinch off the top leaves regularly to encourage bushy growth and prevent flowering (which can make the leaves bitter), snip stems just above a leaf pair — this helps the plant grow fuller. Cilantro: Prefers cooler weather and about 4–6 hours of sun, this is a great spring and fall plant but typically doesn't survive in Virginia summers, too much heat can make it bolt (flower) quickly, likes loose, well-drained soil with some compost mixed in, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogging, cilantro grows fast — consider planting seeds every few weeks for a continuous harvest. Rosemary: Thrives with at least 6–8 hours of full sun, prefers sandy, well-drained soil — it hates sitting in water, let the soil dry out between waterings. Rosemary prefers to stay on the drier side, trim regularly to keep the shape and encourage new growth, there is a lot of Rosemary in our area that survives the winter, but its not a big fan of winter and does best if its in a warm sunny spot or you could bring it inside for the winter. Happy gardening! Enjoy your herbs!
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Gardening Basics
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 03 - 11:00 pm
- Learn basics of gardening
- It’s wonderful to hear that you’re interested in learning more about gardening! Starting out can feel a bit overwhelming, but with the right resources and a little patience, it can be incredibly rewarding. Here are a few first steps and resources to help you get started: 1. Understand Your Growing Zone: Knowing your USDA Hardiness Zone will help you choose the right plants for your area. The City of Richmond and nearby areas are in the 7b zone. (If you are outside of the city you can find your zone here by entering your zip code: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov) 2. Start Small: Consider beginning with a small garden bed, container garden, or even a few pots on a patio. Herbs, lettuce, and tomatoes are great starter plants! 3. Soil Health is Key: Good gardening starts with good soil. We always recommend getting a soil test to help understand what amendments you might need. Soil test kits are provided by the Master Gardeners through the Extension Office at many of the Richmond Public Libraries. 4. The Extension office has a lot of resources available through their website https://ext.vt.edu/lawn-garden.html and also by following their social media accounts @virginia_cooperative_extension 5. There are many gardening classes offered throughout the greater Richmond area, especially as spring arrives. You can look for classes at our local nurseries like Sneeds, Strange's and many others. Also, Lewis Ginter often has many gardening classes. 6. One of my favorite vegetable gardening books is "Grow Great Vegetables in Virginia" by Ida Wallace. This book is specific to our area and offers a lot of great step by step guidance for each month. Gardening is a rewarding hobby that helps you connect with nature, reduce stress, and enjoy the satisfaction of watching things grow. Whether you’re growing flowers, vegetables, or herbs, it brings beauty, peace, and a sense of accomplishment. I always think of it as an experiment too. Each year I learn things that worked well, as well as things that didn't. Good luck, and have fun!
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Native landscaping
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Date Posted: Fri, Dec 06 - 4:13 pm
- Hello! I'm interested in making my property more sustainable by adding wildflower meadows and native plantings to support the wildlife. I am located in Manakin Sabot. If there are any book resources or other websites you would recommend I would greatly appreciate it. I am an architect by training and have considered getting more of an education in landscape design and horticulture to help make the biggest impact on our community through my projects, both at home and for others. Thanks so much!
- Hello! We love your passion for bringing more wildflowers and natives to your yard. A few resources for you to look into: Homegrown National Park: https://homegrownnationalpark.org/ and any books by Doug Tallamy. There is a guide for Native Virginia plants that you can reference: https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives. Lewis Ginter often offers classes about landscaping and natives and they currently have some spring classes available for sign up on their website. Moulton Hot Natives is also a very knowledgeable resource and a great place to get plants and seeds: https://moultonhotnatives.square.site/ Whenever you are in the city, I suggest driving by Amelia Street School. Behind the school are several different beautiful native beds that may give you some inspiration! I hope these resources will help get you started and you will have fun and learn a lot along the way!
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Fall/Winter Vegetables for the home garden
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Date Posted: Sun, Nov 03 - 8:07 pm
- Hello,i would like to know what type of vegetables in this time of year i can have in home conditions like a small garden? Thank you so much for respond and please if there is any useful resource that i can get some innovative idea please let me know i would really appreciate that,have a wonderful day. Thank you and have a flower day:)
- One of my favorite resources for vegetable gardening in Virginia is the Grow Great Vegetables in Virginia book by Ira Wallace and the Virginia Extension Home Garden Vegetable Planting guide is also an excellent resource: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/426/426-331/SPES-170.pdf Many people are still harvesting beans, broccoli, carrots, greens, etc from their fall gardens although it is a little late in the year to try to get these planted now. The thing to plant right now is garlic for a June harvest. (I always plant garlic around Halloween to harvest around Father's day) Because we have been having a very warm fall, you could still try to plant carrots, beets, winter radishes, spinach or kale and see if the weather cooperates for you. This is also a great time of year to start planning what you will plant as spring approaches! You can then think about what seeds you may want to purchase and if you have space to start seeds inside and if so gathering the supplies. I also recommend keeping an eye on our local garden nurseries (Sneeds, Great Big Greenhouse, Strange's) after the new year as many will have classes for vegetable gardening available. Lewis Ginter also offers great classes. Good luck and happy gardening!