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Squash Bug Control
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Date Posted: Sun, Aug 22 - 3:10 pm
- I have been having a hard year with squash bugs taking over my zucchini plants. I am wondering if you have any tips on how to prepare the soil this winter to decrease their activity next season. Thank you!
- Good morning! Thank you for your question. You are certainly a step ahead in that you have identified the pest, and have probably read about effective means to control and hopefully rid many of the insects during the growing season. Nevertheless, they are difficult to eradicate. You are smart to be thinking about ways to overwinter the garden to minimize the problem next spring. Do you use mulch around your zucchini plants? Mulches give adult squash bugs a place to overwinter, and you want to remove that mulch if you have used it. Straw is a better alternative to use around these plants in the growing season. As fall/winter approaches, you want to be sure and clean your garden of old vines, crop, and leaf debris where adult bugs will hide over the winter. Squash bugs will rarely survive cold winters without places to hide. However, Richmond has been known to have very mild winters, and you surely don't want to give these bugs a place to hide. Once you have removed all debris (and mulch, if you have it), till the soil. This also helps eliminate the pests. If you have the room in your garden (which most city properties do not), it is also helpful to rotate your crops year to year to keep down insect population. But the best thing to do is completely clear the garden of all debris for the winter, and till the soil. One tip for next spring/summer, is to place boards or old shingles on the ground next to the garden (especially at night time). Squash bugs love to hide under these, and they make excellent traps for collecting the bugs in the morning, and then placing the bugs in a bucket of soapy water. And of course, regular inspection during the early growing season to collect these bugs from your plants helps as well. But definitely follow the guidelines for garden cleanup and tilling to properly overwinter, and that will certainly get you off to a clean start in the spring!
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Shasta Daisy-browning, die back
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:52 pm
- I have a large shasta daisy that I planted along my side yard years ago. About 3 years ago it started having "issues". It starts the spring with very green and abundant stems/leaves. And everything seems wonderful as the plant starts to bud....but then the flowers bloom already browning and die quickly. I am guessing it has some kind of wilt but not sure what to do. I also have dianthus in pots up my steps for the first time and it appeared that they also caught "the wilt" but they seem to be bouncing back. Not so for my Shasta daisies. Is there anything I can spray them with or can I transplant? It's such a gorgeous prolific plant.
- Sorry to hear of your daisy troubles. I'm going to refer to a previous answer I gave about Rudbeckia 'Goldsturm'. The daisies are also one of the stalwarts of the garden but can run into various problems. Please see the rudbeckia answer below. I didn't spell it out in the answer below but good drainage and air circulation are essential for plant growth and prevention of fungal diseases. And again, if your plants continue to succumb, selection of a new plant for your particular environment may be a good solution. Good luck, let us know your progress! "Rudbeckias are usually pretty sturdy plants but they do succumb to some fungal issues. Sometimes the problem could be attributed to too much water, so that's a simple fix. Or, you may be dealing with septoria leaf spot or a similar fungus. Rain and humidity contribute to the problem. You can start with some cultural practices. Remove all affected leaves and put them in the trash. The fungus overwinters in infected plant debris so you want to clean up the area around the plants to make them less inviting to the fungus. You may also try moving the plants to a spot with new soil and seeing if the plants improve over time. Additionally, do not water from overhead. Try a soaker hose so that the foliage does not get wet. You could also try a baking soda solution spray but that's usually better at prevention. A neem oil solution may be effective. You may decide to simply remove them from the garden and substitute another perennial that's less susceptible. There are many choices. A lot of gardening is just adapting to your circumstances and trying new plants that may be better suited to your patch of ground. Best of luck with your garden! "
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Japanese Holly Dieback
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:37 pm
- There is a hedge at the front of my property. Someone years ago told me they are Japanese hollies. I found a tag on a bush in the back yard which I believe is the same plant--it's Ilex crenata 'Bennett's Compacta'. They had been very healthy and growing almost too well for nearly 12 years until this spring when one bush turned brown in a matter of days. I cut out all the brown and there is some new growth near the base, but I have 2 questions; 1. What are likely causes of the die-back? 2. What are the chances that this will affect the other bushes? Since it's the front of the property it's already unsightly--looks like a missing tooth--but I don't want to replace the one diseased bush in the row if they could all be in jeopardy. Thanks for your help. Shelley
- Hello there, Without seeing the plant and the place it's situated, my best guess about the origin of the dieback is black root rot. I am attaching a link here from Virginia Tech with an information sheet. It's a tough problem. If you believe that's why your shrub succumbed and since the hedge has served you well for 12 years, it may be time to replace it. Of course, any replacement would have to be a variety that will not be susceptible to this root rot. Let us know if you have further questions. Best of luck.
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Recommendations for spring vegetables in garden box
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:33 pm
- We have two garden boxes planted with a variety of spring vegetables. I'd like to add a new box or two this week, but worry I've missed the planting window. Any recommendations for plants that would do well starting in June?
- Thanks for your question. It’s definitely not too late to plant for some vegetable varieties. Several good options include carrots, beets, radishes, as well as peppers and tomatoes. Chard is also an option. Carrots, beets, and radishes can be planted every 2 weeks until mid-summer for continual harvest (depending on size of your garden boxes). Tomatoes and peppers generally take approximately 60 days to maturity - check the labels on the varieties for maturity time. Chard can be seed planted until mid-summer in our zone (zone 7). Hope this helps, and let us know if further questions!
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Raised beds, native ground cover, bio-diversity, dog-friendly
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Date Posted: Fri, Aug 06 - 8:50 pm
- Thank you for doing this, first of all! My question is: How do I maintain a yard with raised garden beds, while also allowing natural biodiversity to thrive AND keeping it safe for my 2 small pet dogs to roam in? I am about to move into a place with a beautiful, old mulberry tree and a yard full of both native groundcover and some invasives like English ivy. I want to convert it into a big produce garden to share with my neighbors, and have planned out having 4 raised beds, along with allowing native groundcover to grow between the beds. However, I also want to be mindful of the fact that I need to keep any plants that may harm my dogs away, and keep ticks to a minimum (though I know theyre kinda unavoidable because nature is nature). Whatre your thoughts/suggestions?
- It sounds like you've got a great plan. Assuming you have the right amount of direct sun, 6 hours or more, you should have a good site for growing vegetables, herbs ,etc. You mention a large mulberry tree, I hope that it doesn't prevent you from getting the right amount of sunshine. Are you planning on building frames for the beds? I find this to be the best method. It helps deter critters (domestic and otherwise), allows for good drainage, and helps keep weeds at bay. Since you already have some native ground cover you could make the most of that by dividing the existing planting and planting the divisions between the beds. I'm not sure what native you have but if it can take some foot traffic that would be the way to go. Dividing is most successful when done in spring or fall. It sounds like you've got a good amount of yard space In addition to the raised beds so for diversity you could add native shrubs and perennials. Blueberries make an excellent edible addition to a shrub planting or border. There are many lovely native shrubs to choose from - summersweet (clethra alnifolia), fothergilla, sweetspire (itea viriginica) - to name a few. Just remember - right place, right plant. Be sure to consider the specific location you are planting in: sunny/shady, moist/ dry, etc. As far as dog-friendly plants go, I would make a list of all the plants -food and ornamental- you're considering and then check the web to see if any pose a danger to dogs. For example, some herbs are a problem for dogs and some are beneficial, so it takes some research. Regarding maintenance, the raised beds will help with this for the vegetables and herbs, and generally, all plantings (shrubs, perennials) are easier to maintain when a good mulch is applied right after planting. Also, close plantings can minimize space for weeds to take over and a mature ground cover pretty much takes care of itself. And lastly, a convenient water source is critical. I think you'll have some fun with this-Good luck!
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Gardening in Raised Bed
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Date Posted: Mon, Jul 05 - 6:29 pm
- I bought a cedar raised bed kit from Lowes that stands on legs off the ground. I bought bags of organic raised bed soil as the kids suggested. I planted lettuce in it and it only made seedlings. So I put the tomato plants in it but they didn't grow either. I watered every day and it was in direct sun. Why would this be happening?
- Good afternoon! Thank you for your question. I know from experience that it is frustrating when you put time and effort into planting new plants, only to have them not thrive. Gardening is certainly a learning experience! From the information you provided, I am assuming you planted the lettuce and then the tomatoes in recent weeks. The first thing that comes to mind as far as the lettuce goes is that lettuce is a cool season vegetable, best planted in very early spring (March) for harvest in late spring or early summer. I'm wondering if you planted your lettuce from seed in late spring and by the time germination occurred the weather was already getting too warm. If lettuce is planted in late spring, it will certainly need some shade as summer approaches. Your best bet is to try planting your lettuce again in the fall season. And as you did before, water frequently and keep it in a sunny location during the cool fall season. With the tomatoes, it sounds like you planted them at the appropriate time, and in a sunny location which they require. My only thought here is that the tomatoes may have been watered too frequently, and the soil did not have a chance to dry out enough before a subsequent watering. Overwatering tomato plants can cause the leaves to turn yellow if the roots are not getting enough oxygen from overly saturated soil that does not have a chance to dry out. You may also want to check the drainage in your raised bed. Does it have a liner? This could be a factor in water retention in your bed if you are perhaps watering too frequently and proper drainage is not occurring. The best rule of thumb to check soil moisture is to insert a trowel, or wooden dowel, about 6 inches into the soil, and check to see if it comes out clean (soil has dried out), or if it comes out with damp soil clinging to the trowel or dowel. If it comes out with damp soil clinging, you do not need to water. Overwatering is a common mistake in gardening, and growing plants in pots or raised beds makes it even trickier. But with the right practices in routinely checking your soil moisture several inches down into the soil (before watering), you should have better success. If you have other questions, or experienced other circumstances than what I assumed above, feel free to reach back out to us and we'll be happy to help!