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Building Healthy Soil
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Date Posted: Fri, Feb 16 - 12:58 pm
- Hi, I seem to have very low yield and success with my gardens that we planted the past few years. I was wondering if it might have to do with soil quality etc. Is there anyone I can turn to for a consultation? Free or paid? I'd love to just get some expert opinions on the best way to improve my yield and overall success.
- This is frustrating for a gardener for sure! Now is a great time of year to do a soil test to see how your soil needs to be amended before planting season. We are in the process of getting more soil test kits from the extension office and will have them out in the libraries again soon. Once these are back, I'd recommending picking one up to test the soil in your garden. The information you will get from this will guide you on what your soil is lacking so that you can focus on adding that back in. The plants will take nutrients from the soil each year and it is important that we are building the soil back up. Chesterfield County Master Gardeners has an upcoming workshop on March 9th about feeding the soil: https://anc.apm.activecommunities.com/chesterfieldparksrec/activity/search/detail/20270?onlineSiteId=7&locale=en-US This is a great opportunity to get information that will set you up for success and will also allow you the chance to ask questions that are pertinent to your garden. We also have many wonderful garden shops (Cross Creek, Sneeds, Stranges, Colesville, Great Big Green House) in the area with very knowledgable people on their teams. They are always willing to help guide you in store and some offer services to come out and consult on your property. Happy gardening! Hoping this year will be an abundant year for you!
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Native Dogwood and Holly
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Date Posted: Sat, Jan 27 - 3:05 am
- Two questions about native plants: are red twig dogwoods native to VA? I have seen dogwoods with red twigs in the woods, but never like the ones you see around cities or in people's yards like "arctic fire" with the really red branches. Besides the nativeness of red twig, do they need a lot of sun or can they do well in partial shade? Also, is holly native to the eastern us or is it naturalized nowadays and brought over by the colonists? Thanks, Neal
- Hi Neal! Great questions, I'll do my best to answer them. What most people refer to as "arctic fire" I think is the red-osier dogwood (Cornus stolonifera Michaux). The nativity of this species in Virginia is questionable. It was historically reported to grow along the Potomac River in Fairfax Co., but supporting specimens currently appear to be lacking. It tends to do best in full sun to part shade with moist, rich soil. In nature, it is most often found growing in wet swampy areas. The silky dogwood (Cornus amomum P. Mill.) has a red/purple twig and is native to our area. American Holly (Ilex opaca Aiton var. opaca) is native to our area! It is common in the Coastal Plain and Piedmont areas but infrequent in the mountains. The digital Atlas of Virginia Flora is a great resource for checking what is native to our area: https://vaplantatlas.org/index.php?do=start&search=Search
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Composting - continued!
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Date Posted: Sun, Nov 12 - 5:36 pm
- I am very appreciative of the options you recommended for me to compost. I think I was not very clear in my question. I already know where to bring food scraps, and I already do bring food scraps for composting. My dilemma is where to bring dead plants. I have a tiny yard, and, therefore no space for a compost bin. Now that summer potted plants are dead, I need to know where to bring the large dead plants. Thanks
- I'm sorry my first answer did not give you the information you were looking for. I've reached out to a few others in our Master Gardener group but none of us have used a composting service specifically for large plants. I believe some of the suggestions I gave you may be able to take them, but the next steps would be to reach out them to ask.  I did try to reach out to Richmond Grows Gardens, but have not yet heard back from them. I have previously spoken with some of the ladies that work at the Bird House Farmers Market and she shared that the compost company that picks up their bins can compost anything and everything organic. At the time, I didnt ask specifically about large plants, but here is the email address for the company if you would like to reach out and ask:  info@nopeva.com I admire your determination for finding a good place to take these plants! I currently have a small pile in my back yard where they are breaking down, but it would be great to have other options available.  Hope this information helps you get to what you are looking for!
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Composting Options
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Date Posted: Fri, Nov 10 - 12:55 am
- im wondering where i can bring pretty large seasonal plants that have been in pots and are now dead. can i bring them somewhere to be composted? is there a service the city of richmond offers on a regularly scheduled basis? i am new to richmond. thanks so much.
- First of all, welcome to Richmond!! And thanks for thinking about composting! The city does have compost collection sites where you can drop off your materials to be composted: https://www.richmondgrowsgardens.org/composting and there is an additional drop off site at the Bird House Farmers Market: https://birdhousefarmersmarket.org/info. There are also a local services that will do compost pick ups if that is a service your are interested in: https://enrichcompost.com/ or https://compostrva.squarespace.com/ thanks again for thinking about composting!
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Browning Dwarf Arborvitae
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Date Posted: Wed, Oct 11 - 12:47 am
- Dwarf Arborvitae has brown sections, on am effort to cut them out, it appears black underneath. What is happening? Thank you.
- I'm sorry you are having these concerns with your Dwarf Arborvitae. The first thing that comes to my mind is canker. Canker is infected wounds in the branches caused by fungi. Wounds can be caused by pruning, storm damage, cold damage, or excessive wetness. In plants with canker, you will observe yellow to reddish-brown branches in the middle of healthy green branches. Closer to base of the branch you may see slightly sunken, reddish cankers with profusely exuding resin. Black pustule-like fruiting bodies known as pycnidia may be seen breaking through the bark. There is no real treatment for canker stem diseases. The fungus survives in infected bark tissues, so it is best to prune all infected branches about 3-4 inches below the canker area. Spread of the fungus can be minimized by sterilizing any blades used between all cuts with a 10 percent bleach or 70 percent alcohol solution. Try to prevent damage to trees. Stressed and wounded plants are more likely to be infested. It is best to keep dwarf trees as open as possible so that they will dry out after rain. Prune to allow air flow in plants. Clean out leaves from the insides of shrubs. Do not bury plants too deep in mulch. Prune out infected branches and fertilize affected trees if needed. Good luck!!
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Japanese Spirea
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Date Posted: Tue, Oct 10 - 5:24 pm
- My japanese spirea has large dead sections that I just trimmed back. I don't see any bigs. Any ideas? And should this be cut way back in fall?
- Maintenance pruning for spirea can be done anytime of year and damaged or dead branches should be removed as you see them. When removing these branches, be sure to prune back to a point where the branch is still healthy, or back to the ground if the damage occurs throughout the length of the branch. An overall pruning can be done in late winter, just before new leaves begin to appear. Dwarf varieties (which typically grow 1-3ft tall) can be cut back to 4-6" above the ground. Taller growing varieties can be cut back to 10-12" above the ground. Without more information, it is difficult to say what might be causing the dead sections on your plants. These plants do not require a lot of water, and typically do well on rain water alone unless there is an extreme period of drought. You could monitor your soil to be sure it is draining well and not staying too soggy and moist which could lead to disease issues. One thing to keep in mind about Japanese spirea is that it is a non-native invasive plant. It has small seeds that can last for years in the soil making it very difficult to control. Once Japanese spirea is established outside of its intended areas, it can quickly crowd out native species. Unfortunately, the best control method is to remove existing plants. There is a native spirea that could be considered as a replacement: white meadowsweet (Spiraea alba). I hope this information helps you! Happy gardening!
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Stunted vegetable garden
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Date Posted: Sat, Aug 12 - 6:55 pm
- My vegetable garden has been stunted in its growth this summer and I’ve been trying to figure out what I can do differently. I think we may have some Red Thread in the yard.
- I think many local vegetable gardens have experienced some stunting this year. The prolonged cooler weather we had at the beginning of the summer seemed to have a big impact on plants that were put in the ground in late April and May. In addition, we have had several periods with very little rain to help keep gardens watered which has also been having an impact. Before planting next year, its a good idea to do a soil test to see where your soil could use some support. Soil tests are available through the master gardeners at your local library. You can use these results to ensure you are planting in a robust healthy soil that is ready to provide a good home to your plants. Also, if you aren't already doing this, I would suggest fertilizing your garden with an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizers slowly release nutrients giving a steady supply of food to your plants without disrupting the work of earthworms and other beneficial organisms. Follow the recommendations on the label for frequency of fertilizing. I'm not aware of nor have I been able to find any literature on red thread having an impact on anything other than turf grass. I'm not sure if you mentioned that in correlation with your concerns about your vegetable garden or as a separate concern. However, if you were looking for recommendations to deal with the red thread as well, fungicides are not usually advised for red thread control on residential turf for various reasons. The disease is largely cosmetic. Unless environmental conditions that promote disease development persist for extended periods, the turf will recover — usually with no lasting effects of infection. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Removing Kudzu
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 27 - 12:13 am
- What can be used to get rid of the Kudzu that has taken over the Camellia bush?
- The dreaded kudzu! For successful long-term control, the extensive root system must be destroyed. Any remaining root crowns can lead to reinfestation. Kudzu grows from seed and from root crowns. You can see these root crowns if you follow a vine to where it roots in the soil. Dig just a little around it and you will see several buds, new sprouts, or mature vines emerging from just at, or below, the soil surface. This is the root crown. To stop new kudzu vine growth, cut just below the root crown and remove it from the soil. Kudzu cannot regrow from below the root crown, and it does not sprout from any lateral roots. Sometimes vines, which can root, may be buried under a few inches of organic matter and leaf litter. This gives them the appearance of lateral roots, but they are not. Buried vines make control more difficult because they are hidden and may produce many new shoots. Use a shovel or pick axe to expose the base of the root crown. Then use a sharp hatchet, axe, or a small handsaw to cut the root below the root crown. A shovel or hoe is not adequate for the job as the roots are very fibrous or woody. Pruning shears may work for severing smaller root crowns, but will not work for large root crowns. It is also a good idea to plant native grasses in the fall after removal to control erosion and spread of kudzu and invasion of other weedy plants which may colonize the site after kudzu dies. Good luck!
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Natives & Landscaping
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Date Posted: Mon, May 29 - 5:34 pm
- I have a wonderfully overgrown, half-wild backyard in the Northside that already attracts a great variety of birds ... but I'd like to start being more purposeful about planting natives and landscaping for birds and bugs. I'm having a hard time figuring out where to start, though, and am hoping a Master Gardener could help. Is there someone who could come look at my site and help me come up with a plan?
- Hello! How lovely to have a backyard that is already attracting a great variety of birds! It's wonderful that you want to provide more native plants for your backyard pollinators! A good place to start is by doing a soil test to see how healthy your soil currently is and if there is anything you should add to it before you begin planting. You can find soil test kits at your local libraries when the master gardeners are there, just call and ask your librarian. Next, you will want to think about how wet or dry your back yard typically is, as well as how much sun light you get. You could bring this information along with some pictures to talk with the master gardener at your library or to a local nursery for more guidance. I would also recommend looking over this really wonderful resource on native plants for our area https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives as the free downloadable guide has an amazing amount of information to help get you going in the right direction! Happy gardening!
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Allium Leaf Miner
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Date Posted: Sun, May 28 - 8:55 pm
- I think I might have allium leaf miner in a few of my overwintered leeks. I took pictures, video and saved a sample in a ziplock bag containing the reddish brown egg. I’m not particularly worried about the crop but wasn’t sure if I should contact you since it’s a relatively new invasive pest. It seemed like covering and exclusion measures will be my best bet going forward. Thanks!
- I'm sorry to hear your leeks have been hit by the allium leaf miner. There are a few prevention techniques to consider going forward. 1. Solarization. The garden bed can be covered with clear plastic for four weeks over the summer, being sure to bury the edges so heat is trapped. Solarization will kill allium leaf miner pupae, decrease soil pathogens, and increase beneficial microbes. 2. Rotation Planting. Refrain from planting members of the allium family in the same bed for one year or longer since the pupae will overwinter in the bed. 3. Cover crops. Consider planting members of the cabbage family in the bed prior to planting allium. The sulfur produced by the cabbage crops will transfer to your allium making them more pungent and less desirable to the fly. Another benefit is that brassica plants decrease the amount of nitrogen available in the soil which is beneficial as flies are more drawn to high levels of nitrogen in plants. 4. As you have already mentioned, row covers. Cover the plants at planting time in the fall (September/October) and remove for the winter. Plants will need to be covered again for the spring (March/April) before overwintering pupae emerge. Since the allium leaf miner is very small, it's important to be sure the edges of your covers are pinned down well or buried. Thank you for reporting this finding so the spread of allium leaf miner can be monitored and best of luck with your future plants!