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Rust on serviceberry
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Date Posted: Wed, May 01 - 1:12 am
- Our serviceberry (about two years old) has a rust on the berries. It looks relatively minor (about half the berries are about 50% covered in the rust spores). We planted this tree specifically to support the birds with the berries, although we are also very happy with all of the other ecological benefits the tree provides. Will the rust effect the desirability of the berries to the birds? Is there anything we can or should do to protect the tree/berries from more rust? We live in Churchhill on a tiny urban plot - the serviceberry is our only tree. Thank you!
- Cedar-apple rust and related rust fungi need plants from two plant families to complete their life cycle; Cupressaceae family (eastern red cedar and other junipers) and Rosaceae (apple, hawthorn, serviceberry). It seems likely there must be an eastern red cedar or juniper nearby, even though you do not have any other trees in your yard - the fungal spores can travel up to two miles! This can make it difficult to control the rust. You can prune and remove infected twigs and branches and dispose of them in the trash (not compost). Be sure to decontaminate pruning tools between cuts by dipping them for at least 30 seconds in 70% alcohol (e.g., rubbing alcohol) or 10% bleach. Alternatively, you can spray tools with a disinfectant that contains approximately 70% alcohol, then allow them to air dry. Decontaminating tools will prevent movement of rust fungi from branch to branch or from plant to plant during pruning. If you are able to find nearby juniper and red cedar trees and have neighbors that are willing to help with the cause - in late winter or early spring you can prune and remove brown, woody galls found before orange, gelatinous structures that form in the spring. This will help reduce the level of infection on nearby Rosaceae plants like your serviceberry. Fungicides are not recommended since serviceberries are a resource for wildlife, birds and bees. Your question about serviceberries with rust being less desirable to the birds is challenging. It is recommended that people do not eat serviceberries affected by rust. I have read both that rust does not effect wildlife and that birds will naturally avoid berries with rust. My inclination is to think that the birds would not be interested in the berries affected by rust but I would be curious to know if you have seen a decreased bird population around your serviceberry since you started noticing the rust. I know that things like rust can be frustrating to deal with, especially given your goals with this plant. I wish you the best!
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Identifying Plants
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Date Posted: Tue, Mar 26 - 1:41 am
- We were hoping to come to the event today but since it was canceled I'm contacting here instead. We would like help identifying some plants that are in our yard, I can send you photos. We have three kinds of holly and a few kinds of ground cover that we'd like to know more specifically what they are. Thanks.
- Hello! I can do my best to help you identify your plants. I will e-mail you to get your pictures. For others also looking for plant identification, technology has come a long way with plant ID apps. Two that come to mind are iNaturalist (https://www.inaturalist.org/) and Pl@ntnet (https://plantnet.org/en/). Google image also does a good job! And I find so many of the employees at our local garden nurseries to be very helpful with this!
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English Ivy Replacements
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 18 - 12:49 am
- Hi there! We just had a ton of English ivy removed from our yard and were wondering if someone would be willing to help us plan/design the landscape since we have a mostly clean slate! Thanks for your time. Regards, Haven
- Oh! English Ivy is one of my enemies. I bet it feels so great to have it removed from your yard. And you are absolutely correct in wanting to plant in its place. We do not have any master gardeners going out on site to make recommendations like this, but many of our local nurseries are excellent resources for landscape and design advice (ex Sneeds, Cross Creek, Great Big Green house and I'm sure others)! There are even several local native plant growers that offer their services for this as well (ex Reedy Creek Environmental, Parallel Nursery). It seems like you are looking to take advantage of the blank slate you have and design a wonderful space for yourself. However, it you, or anyone else reading this answer, are interested in strictly filling the space left from removing english Ivy, The Northern Virginia Master Gardeners have a great article about replacing english ivy. Their top three suggestions include: golden ragwort (Packera aurea), Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) and Hairy alumroot (Heuchera villosa). Their full article can be found here: https://mgnv.org/invasive-plants/replacing-english-ivy/ Good luck!! Happy gardening!
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Vegetables and Fruits for shady areas
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 28 - 1:00 am
- Are there any fruits or vegetables that would grow well in a pretty shady area? My property has a lot of trees but I would like to try growing edible plants if possible!
- Yes! There are a few vegetable options for shady areas: 1. Salad greens like arugula, spinach, endive and other lettuces. 2. Leafy Greens like swiss chard, collards, kale and mustard greens. 3. Root veggies like carrots, beets, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga and turnips. 4. Brassica veggies like broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and cabbage. 4. herbs The Fairfax Master Gardeners have a great article about shade tolerant fruits. In their article they say: "Gooseberries, red currants and elderberries are the most shade tolerant fruit we can grow in Virginia. Blueberries and some figs will produce a decent crop in light to moderate shade. Serviceberries, pawpaws and cherry trees are small, understory trees that can bear abundant crops." You can find the full article here: https://fairfaxgardening.org/shade-fruits/ Now is a great time to be planning your spring plantings! Happy Gardening!
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Building Healthy Soil
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Date Posted: Fri, Feb 16 - 12:58 pm
- Hi, I seem to have very low yield and success with my gardens that we planted the past few years. I was wondering if it might have to do with soil quality etc. Is there anyone I can turn to for a consultation? Free or paid? I'd love to just get some expert opinions on the best way to improve my yield and overall success.
- This is frustrating for a gardener for sure! Now is a great time of year to do a soil test to see how your soil needs to be amended before planting season. We are in the process of getting more soil test kits from the extension office and will have them out in the libraries again soon. Once these are back, I'd recommending picking one up to test the soil in your garden. The information you will get from this will guide you on what your soil is lacking so that you can focus on adding that back in. The plants will take nutrients from the soil each year and it is important that we are building the soil back up. Chesterfield County Master Gardeners has an upcoming workshop on March 9th about feeding the soil: https://anc.apm.activecommunities.com/chesterfieldparksrec/activity/search/detail/20270?onlineSiteId=7&locale=en-US This is a great opportunity to get information that will set you up for success and will also allow you the chance to ask questions that are pertinent to your garden. We also have many wonderful garden shops (Cross Creek, Sneeds, Stranges, Colesville, Great Big Green House) in the area with very knowledgable people on their teams. They are always willing to help guide you in store and some offer services to come out and consult on your property. Happy gardening! Hoping this year will be an abundant year for you!
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Native Dogwood and Holly
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Date Posted: Sat, Jan 27 - 3:05 am
- Two questions about native plants: are red twig dogwoods native to VA? I have seen dogwoods with red twigs in the woods, but never like the ones you see around cities or in people's yards like "arctic fire" with the really red branches. Besides the nativeness of red twig, do they need a lot of sun or can they do well in partial shade? Also, is holly native to the eastern us or is it naturalized nowadays and brought over by the colonists? Thanks, Neal
- Hi Neal! Great questions, I'll do my best to answer them. What most people refer to as "arctic fire" I think is the red-osier dogwood (Cornus stolonifera Michaux). The nativity of this species in Virginia is questionable. It was historically reported to grow along the Potomac River in Fairfax Co., but supporting specimens currently appear to be lacking. It tends to do best in full sun to part shade with moist, rich soil. In nature, it is most often found growing in wet swampy areas. The silky dogwood (Cornus amomum P. Mill.) has a red/purple twig and is native to our area. American Holly (Ilex opaca Aiton var. opaca) is native to our area! It is common in the Coastal Plain and Piedmont areas but infrequent in the mountains. The digital Atlas of Virginia Flora is a great resource for checking what is native to our area: https://vaplantatlas.org/index.php?do=start&search=Search
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Composting - continued!
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Date Posted: Sun, Nov 12 - 5:36 pm
- I am very appreciative of the options you recommended for me to compost. I think I was not very clear in my question. I already know where to bring food scraps, and I already do bring food scraps for composting. My dilemma is where to bring dead plants. I have a tiny yard, and, therefore no space for a compost bin. Now that summer potted plants are dead, I need to know where to bring the large dead plants. Thanks
- I'm sorry my first answer did not give you the information you were looking for. I've reached out to a few others in our Master Gardener group but none of us have used a composting service specifically for large plants. I believe some of the suggestions I gave you may be able to take them, but the next steps would be to reach out them to ask. I did try to reach out to Richmond Grows Gardens, but have not yet heard back from them. I have previously spoken with some of the ladies that work at the Bird House Farmers Market and she shared that the compost company that picks up their bins can compost anything and everything organic. At the time, I didnt ask specifically about large plants, but here is the email address for the company if you would like to reach out and ask: info@nopeva.com I admire your determination for finding a good place to take these plants! I currently have a small pile in my back yard where they are breaking down, but it would be great to have other options available. Hope this information helps you get to what you are looking for!
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Composting Options
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Date Posted: Fri, Nov 10 - 12:55 am
- im wondering where i can bring pretty large seasonal plants that have been in pots and are now dead. can i bring them somewhere to be composted? is there a service the city of richmond offers on a regularly scheduled basis? i am new to richmond. thanks so much.
- First of all, welcome to Richmond!! And thanks for thinking about composting! The city does have compost collection sites where you can drop off your materials to be composted: https://www.richmondgrowsgardens.org/composting and there is an additional drop off site at the Bird House Farmers Market: https://birdhousefarmersmarket.org/info. There are also a local services that will do compost pick ups if that is a service your are interested in: https://enrichcompost.com/ or https://compostrva.squarespace.com/ thanks again for thinking about composting!
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Browning Dwarf Arborvitae
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Date Posted: Wed, Oct 11 - 12:47 am
- Dwarf Arborvitae has brown sections, on am effort to cut them out, it appears black underneath. What is happening? Thank you.
- I'm sorry you are having these concerns with your Dwarf Arborvitae. The first thing that comes to my mind is canker. Canker is infected wounds in the branches caused by fungi. Wounds can be caused by pruning, storm damage, cold damage, or excessive wetness. In plants with canker, you will observe yellow to reddish-brown branches in the middle of healthy green branches. Closer to base of the branch you may see slightly sunken, reddish cankers with profusely exuding resin. Black pustule-like fruiting bodies known as pycnidia may be seen breaking through the bark. There is no real treatment for canker stem diseases. The fungus survives in infected bark tissues, so it is best to prune all infected branches about 3-4 inches below the canker area. Spread of the fungus can be minimized by sterilizing any blades used between all cuts with a 10 percent bleach or 70 percent alcohol solution. Try to prevent damage to trees. Stressed and wounded plants are more likely to be infested. It is best to keep dwarf trees as open as possible so that they will dry out after rain. Prune to allow air flow in plants. Clean out leaves from the insides of shrubs. Do not bury plants too deep in mulch. Prune out infected branches and fertilize affected trees if needed. Good luck!!
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Japanese Spirea
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Date Posted: Tue, Oct 10 - 5:24 pm
- My japanese spirea has large dead sections that I just trimmed back. I don't see any bigs. Any ideas? And should this be cut way back in fall?
- Maintenance pruning for spirea can be done anytime of year and damaged or dead branches should be removed as you see them. When removing these branches, be sure to prune back to a point where the branch is still healthy, or back to the ground if the damage occurs throughout the length of the branch. An overall pruning can be done in late winter, just before new leaves begin to appear. Dwarf varieties (which typically grow 1-3ft tall) can be cut back to 4-6" above the ground. Taller growing varieties can be cut back to 10-12" above the ground. Without more information, it is difficult to say what might be causing the dead sections on your plants. These plants do not require a lot of water, and typically do well on rain water alone unless there is an extreme period of drought. You could monitor your soil to be sure it is draining well and not staying too soggy and moist which could lead to disease issues. One thing to keep in mind about Japanese spirea is that it is a non-native invasive plant. It has small seeds that can last for years in the soil making it very difficult to control. Once Japanese spirea is established outside of its intended areas, it can quickly crowd out native species. Unfortunately, the best control method is to remove existing plants. There is a native spirea that could be considered as a replacement: white meadowsweet (Spiraea alba). I hope this information helps you! Happy gardening!