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Mosquito Management
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Date Posted: Thu, Sep 03 - 6:41 pm
- Mosquitos!!! The bane of our existence here in Midlothian VA where we have lived for the last 23 years. We love to garden and spend lots of time outside. We have tried mosquito shield spray services such as Orkin, Thermacell repellents and of course Off spray and wipes. Any hour of the day, mosquitos swarm to us. In less than 5 minutes they find us no matter what. We've also tried prevention, such as cleaning out gutters, eliminating standing water etc. Do you have reports of products or prevention that have been most effective for Richmonder's wanting to spend time outdoors in their gardens? Thanks so much!
- Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately, mosquitoes can be especially challenging in our warm, humid Richmond-area summers, and it sounds like you have already tried many of the common recommendations. The most effective approach is generally to combine several mosquito-management strategies. You are already doing one of the most important things by eliminating standing water. We recommend continuing to check the property at least weekly, since mosquitoes can develop in surprisingly small amounts of water. In addition to gutters, look closely at flowerpot saucers, tarps, wheelbarrows, toys, buckets, birdbaths, corrugated drain extensions, trash/recycling containers, tree holes, and anywhere else rainwater may collect. Containers should be emptied and scrubbed, not just dumped, because mosquito eggs can remain attached to the sides. For water that cannot reasonably be emptied, such as rain barrels, some water features, or other areas of persistent standing water, consider using a mosquito larvicide containing Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis) according to the product label. These are commonly sold as mosquito dunks or bits and target mosquito larvae before they become biting adults. For personal protection while gardening, EPA-registered repellents remain one of the most reliable options. Active ingredients to look for include DEET, picaridin, IR3535, or oil of lemon eucalyptus/PMD. If you dislike the feel or smell of DEET products, you may find a picaridin-based repellent worth trying. You mentioned Thermacell products as well. These are a type of spatial repellent and can be helpful within a limited area, but their effectiveness can be affected by wind and the size of the area you are trying to protect. They may work better for sitting on a patio than for moving throughout a garden. One additional, simple option to try is air movement. Mosquitoes are relatively weak fliers, so placing a strong outdoor fan near a patio, gardening work area, or other place where you spend significant time can make that particular area much less hospitable to them. We would be cautious about relying heavily on routine whole-yard insecticide spraying, particularly in a garden with flowering plants. Products used to kill adult mosquitoes can also affect non-target insects. CDC guidance specifically recommends avoiding applications to plants in bloom or plants being visited by bees and butterflies. If you do choose professional mosquito treatment, we would suggest asking the company exactly what product they use, where they apply it, and what steps they take to minimize exposure to pollinators. Finally, if mosquito numbers are truly extreme despite diligent management on your property, the source may not be entirely within your yard. Nearby properties, drainage areas, neglected containers, or other standing water can continually produce mosquitoes that move into your garden. I hope this gives you a few additional strategies to try. Unfortunately, there isn't one product that will create a completely mosquito-free garden, but combining breeding-site reduction, larval control, personal repellents, and protection of the areas where you spend the most time can make a noticeable difference.
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Cherry tree dropping leaves
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 11 - 11:37 am
- Need assistance with a cherry tree losing leaves. He did not see black spots or holes in leaves, thinks heat may be a factor.
- Thank you for contacting the Master Gardener Help Desk. Heat and drought stress can certainly cause cherry trees to lose leaves, particularly during the hot, dry conditions we've experienced this summer. When trees become stressed, they may shed older leaves to conserve water. However, leaf drop can also be caused by diseases such as cherry leaf spot, bacterial leaf spot, or other environmental stresses. Since you did not observe black spots or holes in the leaves, those diseases may be less likely, but it can be difficult to determine the cause without examining the tree and the fallen leaves. In the meantime, make sure the tree receives adequate water during dry periods. A mature tree generally benefits from a slow, deep watering when rainfall is lacking rather than frequent shallow watering. Applying a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it several inches away from the trunk) can also help conserve soil moisture and moderate soil temperatures. If the tree is otherwise healthy and the leaf drop is due to heat stress, it should recover once environmental conditions improve. Avoid fertilizing or pruning the tree while it is under stress. If the problem continues, or if you notice spots on the leaves, dead branches, oozing bark, or other symptoms, it is likely more than an environmental problem. Photos of the entire tree, the trunk, and both the upper and lower surfaces of affected leaves would be especially helpful in narrowing down the cause. You can email photos to rvamastergardeners@gmail.com
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Reviving a snake plant
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 11 - 11:28 am
- Hi! I am desperately trying to save this snake plant. Is there anything that can be done to return it to its former glory.
- Thank you for including a photo! The good news is that your snake plant (Dracaena trifasciata, formerly Sansevieria) appears to be alive and actively growing. I can see several healthy new leaves and offsets ("pups"), so it has a good chance of recovering. The older leaves that have fallen over will not become upright again. Once a snake plant leaf bends or creases, it will remain that way. You can prune those damaged leaves off at the base using clean scissors or pruners. This allows the plant to direct more energy toward healthy new growth. Your plant also appears to have several offsets and may be crowded in its current pot. While repotting, inspect the roots and rhizomes. Healthy roots are firm and light-colored. Remove any soft, mushy, or blackened roots, which may indicate rot, and repot in a container with a drainage hole using a well-draining potting mix formulated for succulents or cacti. If desired, the offsets can be divided and potted separately. The leaves are longer and more arching than is typical for a snake plant, which often indicates it has been growing in lower light. While snake plants tolerate low-light conditions, they develop stronger, more upright growth in bright, indirect light. Moving it to a brighter location (avoiding harsh afternoon sun) should help encourage sturdier new growth. Finally, be careful not to overwater. Allow the potting mix to dry completely between waterings, and never let the pot sit in standing water. Overwatering is the most common cause of problems with snake plants. With a little cleanup, fresh potting mix, and brighter light, your plant should continue producing healthy new leaves. It may take several months for the new growth to fill in and restore the full appearance of the plant.
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Ground Bees
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 11 - 11:24 am
- Our lawn is infested with "ground bees." They emerge in the spring for about two weeks. They do not sting, but they are an annoyance. And they are destructive of our lawn. How can we get rid of them? Are there effective insecticides? Any help will be appreciated
- Thank you for reaching out with your question. Ground bees are solitary, ground-nesting native bees that are among the first pollinators to emerge in spring. Although they often nest in large groups, each female creates and provisions her own nest. They are generally non-aggressive and rarely sting as you mentioned, and their activity typically lasts only a few weeks before the adults disappear for the remainder of the year. During the rest of the year, the developing bees remain underground until the following spring. Because they are important pollinators, Virginia Cooperative Extension recommends leaving them undisturbed whenever possible. Ground bees prefer dry, well-drained soil. If they are nesting in an area where their presence is problematic, keeping the soil moist during their brief spring nesting period can discourage them from using that location in future years. Improving turf density through proper fertilization, overseeding, and irrigation can also make lawns less attractive for nesting by reducing areas of exposed soil. Virginia Cooperative Extension does not generally recommend insecticides for ground bees because of their beneficial role as pollinators and because their active period is so short. By the time treatment is considered, they are often nearly finished nesting for the season. If the bees are creating a safety concern in a high-traffic area, you may wish to consult a licensed pest management professional, but for most situations, tolerating them for the brief period they are active is the preferred management approach. Here are two online articles that discuss ground bees that you may find helpful: https://fairfaxgardening.org/ground-nesting-bees/ https://www.richmonder.org/ground-nesting-bees-are-a-spring-phenomenon-in-richmond/
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Watering while out of town
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Date Posted: Mon, Jul 27 - 8:28 pm
- This may seem an odd request. We are leaving our Bon Air home for a rare two-week getaway on 8/1. We are concerned about some of our bedding plants that are not irrigated. We hand water throughout the week. Do you know of anyone who might be interested in stopping by a few times to water while we are away? We are located within the City limits near Old Gun Road across from St. Edwards. Thanks for taking the question!
- Thanks for reaching out with your question! Unfortunately, we don't have a list of volunteers or services that provide watering assistance while homeowners are away. You could consider installing a simple drip irrigation system on a timer. Many affordable options are available for both in-ground beds and container gardens, and they can be a great way to keep plants watered during vacations or periods of hot, dry weather. I realize that isn't the immediate solution you were hoping for, but I hope it's a helpful idea for the future. I hope you're able to find someone to help, and that you have a wonderful trip!
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Pruning Willow Oak and planting Chicago Hardy Fig
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 02 - 7:00 pm
- Hello, We have a very large Willow Oak tree that we want to trim. Any recommendations for arborists that can trim these large trees without causing harm to the tree? We also have a Chicago Hardy fig tree, how far from the foundation should we plant it?
- Thank you so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. For your willow oak, we recommend hiring an ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) Certified Arborist with experience pruning large, mature shade trees. Proper pruning is important for maintaining the long-term health and structure of an established oak, and an experienced arborist can determine whether pruning is necessary and recommend the best approach. While we aren't able to give specific recommendations, you can search for certified arborists in your area using the ISA's "Find an Arborist" directory: https://www.treesaregood.org/findanarborist. Be sure to ask about their experience with mature oaks and request proof of certification and insurance. For your Chicago Hardy fig, we recommend planting it at least 10–15 feet from your home's foundation. Although figs generally have shallow, spreading root systems that are not considered aggressively invasive, they can become quite large, often reaching 15–30 feet tall and wide under favorable conditions. Allowing adequate space provides room for the canopy to develop, improves air circulation, makes harvesting easier, and helps avoid branches rubbing against the house. If you plan to keep the fig pruned as a smaller shrub, you may be able to plant it somewhat closer, but 10–15 feet is a good general guideline for long-term growth.
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Master Gardener Classes
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Date Posted: Wed, Jun 10 - 1:28 am
- how do i sign up for classes to be a master gardener?
- Hello! Thank you so much for your interest in taking Master Gardener classes. Class information should be available later this summer with applications opening in September. Please e-mail rvamastergardeners@gmail.com to get added to our wait list to receive information once it is available.
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"Suckering" trees
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Date Posted: Wed, Jun 10 - 1:26 am
- Hi - we have a couple of trees that look to have “suckers” of varying lengths (an example shown below). Would an arborist be able to assist with removing these growths safely and helping to minimize future growths?
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners, and for including a very helpful photo! The growth you’re seeing are called “suckers” or epicormic shoots. In your case, these are vigorous shoots coming from the lower trunk. While the leaf shape looks consistent with the rest of the tree, the green color (compared to the purple canopy above) suggests this growth may be coming from the rootstock rather than the grafted top. You are correct to want to remove these, as they can take energy away from the upper canopy and, over time, may outcompete the desired growth if left unmanaged. If you are comfortable with pruning, many homeowners find they can remove these themselves keeping a few things in mind. First, be sure to prune each shoot back as close to the trunk as possible (don’t leave stubs). Stubs will create more suckers. Always use clean, sharp pruners. It is best to remove the suckers while they are still relatively longer. For larger or very dense growth like you have, an arborist can certainly help, but it’s not strictly necessary if you’re comfortable pruning. To help reduce future suckering: 1. Continue removing shoots promptly when they appear 2. Avoid heavy pruning of the upper canopy, which can stimulate more growth 3. Keep the tree healthy with proper watering and mulch (but avoid piling mulch against the trunk) From what I can tell from your photo, this appears to be a purple-leaf redbud, which is often grafted onto a standard green-leaf redbud rootstock. The rootstock naturally produces green leaves and tends to grow more vigorously, which seems to be what you’re seeing here. More broadly, trees often produce suckers in response to stress or disruption. Common triggers include heavy pruning or canopy loss, damage to roots or trunk (from lawn equipment, construction, etc.), environmental stress, such as drought or poor soil conditions, planting issues (like being planted too deeply or having mulch piled against the trunk), and natural growth habit of certain species or rootstocks If these shoots continue to return aggressively, it may just be the nature of the rootstock, but it can also be worth checking for any underlying stress factors.
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Renting a Raised bed
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Date Posted: Tue, Jun 02 - 12:09 am
- Any available raised beds that I can reserve.
- Hi! Thanks so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! While we enjoy getting the opportunity to work with some of the amazing community gardens in the city, we are not directly connected to them. I am going to direct you to this city website: https://www.rva.gov/parks-recreation/community-gardens where you can find contact information for Nate who oversees the gardens as well as a link to contact gardens directly to check on availability for a raised bed. We are fortunate to have many active gardens around the city and we hope you will be able to connect with one!
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I would like to become a Master Gardener. How do I go about that?
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Date Posted: Mon, May 11 - 9:08 pm
- I would like to become a Master Gardener. How do I go about that?
- Good afternoon and thank you for your question! The Master Gardener program is run by the Virginia Cooperative Extension (VCE), and they provide the training and certification to become an Extension Master Gardener. To become certified, you must enroll in a class with the local Extension Office of the VCE. The requirement is to complete the 50 hours of training and then complete 50 hours of volunteer service to become certified. To remain active, you must complete 20 hours of volunteer service and 8 hours of Continuing Education each year. You can contact the VCE office in Richmond at 804.786.4150 and speak to either Twandra Lomax or Jane Henderson. One of them can tell you when the next class will be. At this time, the City of Richmond Extension office of the VCE is coordinating with one of the local county Extension offices (Chesterfield or Henrico) to provide the training for our City of Richmond Extension. Once you are certified, you will then become active in the City of Richmond Master Gardener program. Thank you for your interest! Please reach out if you have any other questions about the program and we will be happy to help.