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Growing Tulips
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Date Posted: Fri, Mar 21 - 1:01 am
- I have a beautiful pre-planted set of tulips that I would like to plant in my garden. I am wondering if I should put them in a pot or plant them in the ground. What are the ideal soil conditions, watering regimen, and how much sunlight should they get? My front yard gets great partial sun and my backyard gets full sun. Thank you in advance for your help!
- Tulips are beautiful! What a great addition to your garden! Here are some tips to give your tulips the best chance of thriving, whether you choose a pot or in-ground planting. Planting in a Pot or in the Ground? Pot: Great if you want to control soil conditions and move them around for optimal light. Just make sure it has good drainage. Ground: Ideal for long-term growth, although some tulips may not return year after year in Virginia’s warm climate due to the lack of a cold dormancy period. If you want to replant them for future years, the ground is best. If you just want them for this season and might replace them next year, a pot is a great choice. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by pre-planted, but if they are already in a pot, I would leave them there for now and let them bloom. The ideal time to plant tulip bulbs is in the fall, generally late October to early December. They have a tendency to rot in warm, wet conditions. Ideal Soil Conditions: Tulips hate wet feet and need well-draining soil. To achieve this, it is best to amend heavy clay with sand or compost in order to improve drainage. They also like slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0–7.0). (You could pick up a soil test kit from one of the Richmond libraries to find out what your pH is!). Watering Needs: Water well after planting to help them establish roots. During growth, only water if the soil is very dry - tulips prefer dry conditions between watering. After blooming, reduce watering as the the foliage dies back to prevent bulb rot. Sunlight Requirements: Full sun (backyard) is ideal, especially for strong blooms next year. Partial sun (front yard) is okay, but tulips bloom better with at least 6 hours of direct sun. If you plant in a pot, you can move them to maximize sunlight exposure. Extra Tips: If you want them to return next year, wait until the leaves completely yellow and die back before cutting them—this allows energy to return to the bulb. Tulips sometimes don’t rebloom well in warm climates like Virginia, so many gardeners treat them as annuals and replant fresh bulbs each fall. The variety you select can have a big impact on this. Choose good quality, large bulbs with a reputation for dependability. Consider Darwin, Triumph or Emperor varieties. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Finding Natives for a tough spot
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 17 - 4:33 pm
- Hello! We have a particularly difficult section of our garden in Richmond: it's a sloped spot between the driveway and the house, faces south, has pretty lousy soil, and is shaded by nearby oak tree. The only thing that we've been able to grow there is rosemary; everything else we've tried hasn't made it. Are there any native perennials that might survive?
- That sounds like a tricky spot, but there are some native perennials that could thrive in those conditions! Given that the area is south-facing but shaded, has poor soil, and is on a slope, you'll need plants that are drought-tolerant, shade-tolerant, and able to handle soil erosion. Here are some great Virginia native perennials that might work: Low-Maintenance Shrubs American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) – Handles some shade and poor soil, and has striking purple berries in fall. Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) – Tolerates shade and provides late fall yellow blooms. Perennials for Shade & Dry Conditions Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) – A beautiful, drought-tolerant flower that does well in partial shade. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) – A tough native with lovely pinkish-purple flowers in spring. Golden Ragwort (Packera aurea) – Great for erosion control and pollinators, with bright yellow flowers in spring. Ornamental Grasses (For Texture & Erosion Control) Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Drought-tolerant and provides great fall color. (A favorite of mine!) Bottlebrush Grass (Elymus hystrix) – A native grass that thrives in dry shade. Since rosemary has survived, that suggests it’s well-drained soil, possibly a bit alkaline due to the concrete driveway. You may need to amend the soil with compost to help native plants establish, but once they do, they should require little maintenance.
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Growing Herbs
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 03 - 11:09 pm
- How to grow healthy Herb plant? Plants like Basil, cilantro, Rosemarys.
- Growing herbs is so rewarding! I love having what I need for a recipe growing outside the back door! Basil, cilantro, and rosemary each have their own needs, so here’s a quick guide to help them thrive: Basil: Loves warmth and the sun and needs at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, prefers well-draining, nutrient-rich soil, keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy — water when the top inch feels dry, pinch off the top leaves regularly to encourage bushy growth and prevent flowering (which can make the leaves bitter), snip stems just above a leaf pair — this helps the plant grow fuller. Cilantro: Prefers cooler weather and about 4–6 hours of sun, this is a great spring and fall plant but typically doesn't survive in Virginia summers, too much heat can make it bolt (flower) quickly, likes loose, well-drained soil with some compost mixed in, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogging, cilantro grows fast — consider planting seeds every few weeks for a continuous harvest. Rosemary: Thrives with at least 6–8 hours of full sun, prefers sandy, well-drained soil — it hates sitting in water, let the soil dry out between waterings. Rosemary prefers to stay on the drier side, trim regularly to keep the shape and encourage new growth, there is a lot of Rosemary in our area that survives the winter, but its not a big fan of winter and does best if its in a warm sunny spot or you could bring it inside for the winter. Happy gardening! Enjoy your herbs!
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Cover crops for shaded compacted lawn
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Date Posted: Mon, Sep 16 - 12:32 am
- Hello! I have a very compacted front lawn that only grows Japanese clover (and just barely). It’s in full shade below large willow oaks. A shovel only gets a couple inches deep, and that’s after jumping on it a few times. I have a dream of planting groundcovers like Chrysogonum, Fragaria, and Ajuga, but I don’t think they’ll do well in compaction. Are there any cover crops I can plant to overwinter that will help with this? I was thinking daikon, but don’t know if they’ll do well without sun. Any tips for combatting this compaction would be very helpful!
- So many of us know this struggle with compacted soil!. Daikon radish is often recommended for breaking up compacted soil due to its deep taproot. However, it does require at least partial sun to grow well, and in deep shade, it may struggle. I'm curious when the leaves typically fall from your willow oaks as that should help the area get more sunlight. You might consider crimson clover or white clover which can tolerate low light levels better and also help improve soil structure by fixing nitrogen. Personally, I would be inclined to seed with both diakon radish and clover. If both end up growing that should be a huge help to your soil! Other ideas to consider include applying a layer of compost or leaf mulch. This will encourage earthworm activity and other soil organisms that naturally aerate the soil over time. If physically possible, aerating the lawn with a manual or mechanical aerator can make a big difference. This opens up the soil, allowing water and nutrients to penetrate more effectively, and provides a better environment for your planned groundcovers. And once the soil has improved, your choices of Chrysogonum, Fragaria, and Ajuga could thrive better. These are excellent for shaded areas once the compaction is reduced. Good luck! We'd love to hear what you decide to go with and the outcome that you get.
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Rust on serviceberry
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Date Posted: Wed, May 01 - 1:12 am
- Our serviceberry (about two years old) has a rust on the berries. It looks relatively minor (about half the berries are about 50% covered in the rust spores). We planted this tree specifically to support the birds with the berries, although we are also very happy with all of the other ecological benefits the tree provides. Will the rust effect the desirability of the berries to the birds? Is there anything we can or should do to protect the tree/berries from more rust? We live in Churchhill on a tiny urban plot - the serviceberry is our only tree. Thank you!
- Cedar-apple rust and related rust fungi need plants from two plant families to complete their life cycle; Cupressaceae family (eastern red cedar and other junipers) and Rosaceae (apple, hawthorn, serviceberry). It seems likely there must be an eastern red cedar or juniper nearby, even though you do not have any other trees in your yard - the fungal spores can travel up to two miles! This can make it difficult to control the rust. You can prune and remove infected twigs and branches and dispose of them in the trash (not compost). Be sure to decontaminate pruning tools between cuts by dipping them for at least 30 seconds in 70% alcohol (e.g., rubbing alcohol) or 10% bleach. Alternatively, you can spray tools with a disinfectant that contains approximately 70% alcohol, then allow them to air dry. Decontaminating tools will prevent movement of rust fungi from branch to branch or from plant to plant during pruning. If you are able to find nearby juniper and red cedar trees and have neighbors that are willing to help with the cause - in late winter or early spring you can prune and remove brown, woody galls found before orange, gelatinous structures that form in the spring. This will help reduce the level of infection on nearby Rosaceae plants like your serviceberry. Fungicides are not recommended since serviceberries are a resource for wildlife, birds and bees. Your question about serviceberries with rust being less desirable to the birds is challenging. It is recommended that people do not eat serviceberries affected by rust. I have read both that rust does not effect wildlife and that birds will naturally avoid berries with rust. My inclination is to think that the birds would not be interested in the berries affected by rust but I would be curious to know if you have seen a decreased bird population around your serviceberry since you started noticing the rust. I know that things like rust can be frustrating to deal with, especially given your goals with this plant. I wish you the best!
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Composting - continued!
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Date Posted: Sun, Nov 12 - 5:36 pm
- I am very appreciative of the options you recommended for me to compost. I think I was not very clear in my question. I already know where to bring food scraps, and I already do bring food scraps for composting. My dilemma is where to bring dead plants. I have a tiny yard, and, therefore no space for a compost bin. Now that summer potted plants are dead, I need to know where to bring the large dead plants. Thanks
- I'm sorry my first answer did not give you the information you were looking for. I've reached out to a few others in our Master Gardener group but none of us have used a composting service specifically for large plants. I believe some of the suggestions I gave you may be able to take them, but the next steps would be to reach out them to ask. I did try to reach out to Richmond Grows Gardens, but have not yet heard back from them. I have previously spoken with some of the ladies that work at the Bird House Farmers Market and she shared that the compost company that picks up their bins can compost anything and everything organic. At the time, I didnt ask specifically about large plants, but here is the email address for the company if you would like to reach out and ask: info@nopeva.com I admire your determination for finding a good place to take these plants! I currently have a small pile in my back yard where they are breaking down, but it would be great to have other options available. Hope this information helps you get to what you are looking for!
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Composting Options
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Date Posted: Fri, Nov 10 - 12:55 am
- im wondering where i can bring pretty large seasonal plants that have been in pots and are now dead. can i bring them somewhere to be composted? is there a service the city of richmond offers on a regularly scheduled basis? i am new to richmond. thanks so much.
- First of all, welcome to Richmond!! And thanks for thinking about composting! The city does have compost collection sites where you can drop off your materials to be composted: https://www.richmondgrowsgardens.org/composting and there is an additional drop off site at the Bird House Farmers Market: https://birdhousefarmersmarket.org/info. There are also a local services that will do compost pick ups if that is a service your are interested in: https://enrichcompost.com/ or https://compostrva.squarespace.com/ thanks again for thinking about composting!
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HT wood pallets for compost bin
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 06 - 12:44 pm
- where can i find HT wood pallets to build my composting bin?
- This is a great question! I have not personally made a compost bin from pallets, but I love the ones we have at my community garden! Having not sourced heat treated wood pallets myself previously, I did a quick google search and found there are a couple of different companies in our area that do sell them. The two I found are Alpha Recycling and Hauling and BE Pallets. It sounds like you already have a good plan together for your compost bins, but just in case you or anyone searching these answers later is looking for more information, the Colorado State Master Gardeners have a really great publication with lots of good information about composting: https://cmg.extension.colostate.edu/Gardennotes/246.pdf Good luck and happy composting!
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Starting a new garden
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Date Posted: Sat, Mar 25 - 4:25 pm
- Hi! I live off of N 18th St. and my apartment building has a very large bed that has been empty for a while and that I would like to start growing in (herbs and vegetables). I plan to come pick up a soil kit to test the current soil in the bed. Is that a first step you'd recommend? After testing the soil, are there specific veggies and herbs you'd recommend for the climate/area we're in? Are there any recommended local places that I could get starters and/or transplants? I also have read that I'll likely need to turn the soil to loosen it up. Welcome suggestions. Thanks! - Marg
- Hello Marg, Nice to hear you're interested in growing food. My first question/concern is if you have cleared this project with the owners or property manager of the apartment you're living in. That would be the first item on the check list. After that, testing the soil is a necessary step. Then, depending on the results, you would add any needed amendments. You can never go wrong by adding compost to the bed. Compost is a good addition because it can lighten heavy soils and enrich sandy soils. As far as what to plant, that would really depend on what you want to plant. I would make a list of desired vegetables and herbs and then see what zone they are appropriate for. Your basic tomatoes, zucchini, basil and parsley will do fine here. The important thing is to check the zone and maturity dates for whatever you are planting. If you want to plant spinach or lettuce or similar greens be aware that they like cool temperatures so they'll need a head start. When it gets too hot they will "bolt" or go to seed and be done for the summer planting season. You can pull them and replace them with a heat-loving vegetable. They can also be planted again as a fall crop when the weather starts to cool a bit. You can find seedlings at most garden centers. I think that Lowe's, Home Depot and similar stores offer some organic seedlings. I would check about both types of stores to see if they offer what you want to plant. Please check out the Master Gardeners who man the help desks at your local library. Check in with the library to see what days and times the gardeners are available. They will give you a wealth of information and advice. Also, if you go to the Main Library there is a seed bank (in an old card catalog) near the indoor entrance. The availability of seeds waxes and wanes but it's worth a try! Good luck with your project. Happy gardening!
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Building soil
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Date Posted: Sun, Feb 26 - 5:45 pm
- We are making new raised beds for flowers and veggies. We are designing them with a wooden frame and then approaching the layers as a lasagne garden. My partner is thinking he can use only mushroom compost and cardboard to fill these beds but from what I read we need about 75% soil and 25% mushroom compost. Is this accurate for Richmond soils? Thanks for your insights on how to best lay the ground materials for thriving flower & veggie beds. Much appreciated, Jāna
- Hello Jana, My go-to resource for soil building is the permaculture guide--Gaia's Garden. The recommendation for building soil through compost is to use half green matter and half brown (to attain a good ratio of nitrogen to carbon). Green matter would be leaves, grass clippings, kitchen scraps (but also manure) and the brown would be dried leaves, hay (includes weeds), straw, pruning trimmings, and wood shavings or similar. The book discusses all issues such temperature of pile, size, turning, etc. The mushroom compost is great but I think the combination of materials will lead to a longer stretch of fertility in the beds. With different materials leaching their nutrients at different times. The beds will consume a lot of mulching material. One way to deal with this is to use any brush you may have collected and build hugelkultur beds. They are basically a mound of brush (tamped down), well watered and covered with organic materials, compost and soil. So you may want to use a combination of hugelkultur and organic matter with a good topping of mushroom compost. I recommend reading Gaia's Garden's chapter 4-Bringing the Soil to Life. The author's favorite method for doing so is sheet mulching (lasange gardening). Happy gardening!