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Blueberries and Lavender
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:37 pm
- Hello, I have 3 questions - I have blueberry bushes that were not properly tended to over the summer heat. They produced lovely berries but since have grown scraggly and I need to trim them back. Is there a proper time and way to do this? I have attempted several times to take cuttings and start new plants. Failed every time. Any suggestions? I have lavender plants in front of the blueberry bushes. They are half alive and half dead. Do I need to move them? I am thinking it is from the overgrowth of limbs from the blueberry bushes but not certain. I am presently in the tedious process of soaking the ground in the evenings and pulling the grass and weeds that surround them. I appreciate your help.
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! You have several great questions that we will do our best to give you some guidance on: 1. When to prune blueberry bushes: The best time to prune blueberries is in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing helps the bush recover and grow new shoots for the coming season. You could also have done some light pruning after harvesting, particularly if you noticed any dead or diseased branches. Regular, light pruning is usually better than infrequent, heavy pruning. Always make clean cuts and avoid leaving stubs, as these can become entry points for pests or diseases. 2. How to prune blueberry bushes: Start by cutting out any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. This helps improve air circulation and reduces the risk of pests and diseases. If the bush is very dense, selectively remove some of the older, thicker branches from the center of the plant to improve airflow and light penetration. This encourages better fruit development. Blueberry bushes produce the most fruit on new growth. Cut back older branches that are more than 6 years old to promote the growth of new, fruitful shoots. Aim for a well-rounded shape, which helps the bush maintain balance and supports better fruit production. Trim to keep the bush to a manageable size and shape, typically removing no more than a third of the plant's height in one season. During the growing season, you can also trim any overly vigorous shoots that might be crowding the plant, encouraging a more balanced structure. 3. Using cuttings to start new plants: The best time to take blueberry cuttings is from late summer to early fall when the wood is semi-hard but not yet fully mature. Choose cuttings from healthy, vigorous plants. Look for shoots that are not too old or too young. Ideally, the cuttings should be from the current season's growth and about 4-6 inches long. If possible, select shoots that haven't flowered, as they will have more energy to put into growing roots. - Preparing Cuttings: Make a clean cut just below a node (the point where leaves attach to the stem). This is where the roots are most likely to develop. Strip off the lower leaves, leaving a few at the top. This reduces moisture loss and encourages root growth. Although optional, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone can improve the chances of successful rooting. Rooting hormone is available in powder, gel, or liquid form. -Planting: Use a well-draining rooting medium like a mix of peat moss and perlite or sand. You can also use a commercial rooting mix. Insert the cuttings into the rooting medium about 1-2 inches deep. Firm the soil around them to ensure good contact. -Care: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water the cuttings gently to avoid displacing them. Cover the cuttings with a plastic bag or place them in a greenhouse or a propagation chamber to maintain high humidity. Ensure the cover does not touch the cuttings to avoid mold. Place the cuttings in a location with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can be too intense for young cuttings. -Transplanting: After about 8-12 weeks, check for root development by gently tugging on the cuttings. If you feel resistance, roots have formed. Rooting can take time, so be patient and avoid disturbing the cuttings too soon. Once roots are established, transplant the cuttings into small pots with a potting mix suitable for blueberries or a mix of peat and perlite. Gradually acclimate the young plants to outdoor conditions by exposing them to more light and outdoor temperatures over a couple of weeks. 4. Caring for lavender plants: Lavender plants can be a bit finicky, but several common issues could be causing them to struggle or die. Here are a few things to think about: Lavender needs well-draining soil. Heavy, clayey, or waterlogged soils can lead to root rot. Consider improving drainage by adding sand or gravel to the soil, or planting in raised beds or containers with good drainage. Lavender prefers slightly alkaline to neutral soil, ideally with a pH between 6.7 and 7.3. You can test your soil’s pH with a kit and amend it if necessary. Lavender is drought-tolerant and doesn’t like to sit in wet soil. Water sparingly and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause root rot and other issues. While lavender prefers less frequent watering, it still needs some moisture, especially in hot, dry conditions. Ensure it gets enough water during prolonged dry spells. Lavender requires full sun to thrive, which means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If it’s not getting enough light, it can become leggy and weak. Lavender generally prefers temperate climates. Extreme cold or heat can stress the plant Lavender doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer. Fungal diseases like root rot, powdery mildew, and rust can affect lavender. Ensure proper spacing for air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce disease risk. Lavender benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape and health. Prune after flowering to remove spent blooms and encourage new growth. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems, as they may not regenerate. Blueberries and lavender can be successfully planted together, but there are a few things to think about to ensure both plants thrive. Both blueberries and lavender prefer acidic to neutral soil. Blueberries thrive in a pH of 4.5 to 5.5, while lavender prefers a pH of around 6.7 to 7.3. This difference in pH requirements means you’ll need to find a balance or be prepared to amend the soil appropriately. Both plants need full sun to grow well. Ensure they receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Both plants require well-draining soil. Blueberries are prone to root rot in poorly drained soils, and lavender, though drought-tolerant, also dislikes wet feet. Blueberries need consistent moisture, especially during the growing season, whereas lavender prefers drier conditions and is more tolerant of drought. Overwatering can lead to issues for both plants, so careful watering practices are necessary. We hope this will give you some guidance for moving forward. Happy gardening!
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Mushroom in my spinach starts?
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Date Posted: Thu, May 23 - 11:50 am
- About 2 weeks ago, I planted spinach seeds in containers. The green leaves started to come up, but today, I noticed something brown and mushroom-shaped growing in both pots. They look like mushrooms, but I'm not sure. What could these be? Should I pull them out? I'd include a pic but it seems that only text is allowed here. I can email a pic once I get your emailed response. Thanks
- There are always surprises when you are gardening! I can't think of anything else that might be aside from a mushroom. I would go ahead an pull it out. You don't want anything competing for nutrients and space with your spinach plants.
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Repotting Orchids
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Date Posted: Sat, May 18 - 8:44 pm
- Hello! I was recently gifted a grocery store orchid in full bloom. I have a black thumb, have never owned an orchid, and am trying not to kill the poor dear. So far it seems pretty happy but it’s also rootbound. It’s in a plastic nursery pot and the roots are growing though the drainage holes. Should I repot it now or wait until it’s done blooming? Thank you!
- Congratulations! What a beautiful gift! Orchids can be so rewarding when they bloom again. First, is to figure out what type of Orchid you have. Most often, I see Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) at the grocery store, so I'm going to assume that is what you have. These orchids have a main stem that grows up from a single point and they actually prefer to be pretty tight in their containers. You definitely do not want to repot it while it is in bloom - repotting it now will cause it to drop all of its flowers. After it has finished blooming, you can repot it. The Missouri Botanical Garden has a really wonderful guide on repotting Orchids that will be a great resource for you once your orchid has finished blooming: https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/visual-guides/repotting-phalaenopsis-and-other-monopodial-orchid#:~:text=As%20a%20general%20rule%2C%20repot,Repot%20spring%20through%20fall. Good luck! Wishing you lots of success!
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Container Gardens
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Date Posted: Sun, Apr 02 - 9:53 pm
- Thank you so much for doing this! I have two questions. First, do you have any advice on what native plants grow well and look nice in containers? I'm hoping to make my small patio/balcony (full sun) as pollinator and bird-friendly as possible. Second, I'd like to include some milkweeds to attract monarchs. I have a small patch of mulched ground (16x20 inches) against a fence. Would swamp milkweed grow well there and/or in containers?
- Hello there, Glad to be of service! I like your native container garden idea. If you want to attract birds, growing berries will make them happy. Blueberries do well in containers and they're beautiful year round plants. Be sure to plant at least 3 different varieties that bloom around the same time. Cross pollination improves the yield; and you need plants that are blooming at the same time to achieve that. The rabbiteye and the southern high bush should work well for you. Some varieties of southern high bush are: Golf Coast, Misty and Ozarkblue. Varieties of rabbiteye are: Powderblue, Brightwell, and Pink Lemonade. You'll need a good size container, maybe 18-20 inches deep and wide and a good acidic soil mix. Blueberries require an acidic soil. In addition to the blueberries, strawberries also do well in containers. You can seek out the native virginia strawberry. They are pretty easy to care for assuming you can give them all day sun. I like your idea of using the swamp milkweed. It's such a beautiful plant, has fragrance and attracts a wide variety of visitors. You could also use that plant in a container; just be sure the soil is moist. The orange butterfly weed is also quite pretty and attractive to pollinators. There is a publication you can download here: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/58e25c41e6f2e17ea4cb7766/t/5ed00bfcb208c2251311ebc6/1590692887078/Native+Plants+for+Virginia%27s+Capital+Region+Guide+for+download.pdf. It gives many examples of native plants from trees to perennials. It's a very useful brochure. The website- plantvirginianatives. org has a wealth of information I think you will find useful. Good luck with this project. Happy gardening!
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Starting seedlings
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Date Posted: Fri, Jan 06 - 9:22 pm
- I’m having trouble understanding when I should start planting certain plants. Also, if I have to do it inside or not. I wanted to plant native wildflowers all around my yard. This is my first time doing it and I’m unsure if I should just get a raised bed or use my ground. Where can I go to get help and is there a basic planting calendar for starting?
- Hello there, The process of starting plants from seed can seem daunting. Different plants have different requirements. Your best source of information is on the seed packet. It should state whether the seed needs warmth to germinate (which would indicate that you should probably start those plants indoors, with sufficient lighting, but note that some plants don't need light to germinate but will need the lighting after germination). You'll need to know how long a seed usually takes to germinate (that will be on the seed packet). You'll need to know when it's safe (temperature/weather) to take any indoor-grown plants outside. Generally growing from seed takes labeling and record keeping. I used to grow plants that needed an indoor headstart in my basement under grow lights that could be adjusted to accommodate the increasing height of plants. It works well if you have the space. Having a check list of plant name, days to germination, date to set outside, etc. is incredibly helpful. Having the seeds labeled in their growing medium is also important. There is an alternative method that some people use called winter sowing. Which is basically making a mini greenhouse out of a container. You can use various containers (I find the large plastic bins that contained greens from the grocery store very useful but you can also use gallon jugs w/tops cut off or similar). My personal experience with winter sowing involved chard, spinach, lettuce-plants that like the cool weather. But I'm sure it will work for flowering plants as well. The beauty of winter sowing is that the light needed is easily provided by mother nature. If you have newly ripened seed, that could go straight into the ground but most people are working with seeds that have been harvested and stored and are thinking about planting in spring. Hence, things get a bit more complicated. You'll want to work backwards from the last frost date to figure out when to plant your seeds. You may be planting different seeds at different times. Richmond is between zone 7a and 7b, so April 15th seems like a reasonable last frost date (though it's possible we could have one a bit later). Keep your eye on the weather. There's lots of information online such as plant record keeping templates you can print out for your records and info about the process of winter sowing. You'll probably wind up doing a combination of indoor starts and winter sowing. Just remember, those plant packets are your best resource! Good growing !!
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Compost
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Date Posted: Fri, Mar 18 - 8:48 pm
- Hello, I tried container gardening last year for the first time and really loved it. I’m looking to try again this year. I’ve collected a lot of free pots over the year, and have a good amount of space outside for them, but I am low income and can’t afford to buy more than a few bags of potting soil. Do you know of any cheap or free soil or compost give away programs in richmond? I can’t compost myself here because I live in a apartment that is susceptible to roaches.
- Hello there, So glad to hear you're planting in containers. It's amazing how well that can work. While there is no public resource for free or cheap compost (hopefully someday....) I reached out to the other Master Gardeners and a couple of them are happy to share some of their own. If you email me at jrreilly2323@gmail.com, I can send you the contact information for the individuals that have compost to share. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
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Trellising Blackberries
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 1:44 pm
- I am wanting to grow blackberries in containers. I have a full sun spot behind my house. Do you think galvanized feeder troughs would be a good thing in which to plant them? And was planning/thought I could trellis them on my fence - do you think that would work? Thank you
- Hello there, that sounds like a great scheme. The troughs should be fine. Galvanized containers are only a problem when they start to corrode so starting with new ones will be fine and serve you for many years. You didn't mention the type of blackberry or the height of your fence. Assuming you are using erect blackberries they will probably top out at 4-5 ft. tall. So factor that in with the height of your planters. If your trough is a foot high add in the mature height of the bushes at 5 feet. Assuming your fence is 6 feet high your good to go. Even if the fence is a bit shorter it will still work. Blackberries can get pretty tangled so you're smart to want to control them a bit with a support. Generally, you will cut down the cane after it has fruited and you've harvested. However, the pruning can vary depending on whether the plant fruits in summer or fall so just be sure to get all that information when you select a variety. It would be good to have some air circulation behind and around the plants so hopefully your fence isn't solid boards. You might wind up with some space in the front of the berries which could be a nice spot for growing herbs. Good luck with the project!