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Declining Rose Bushes
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 20 - 12:18 am
- We have a row of drift roses out from for the last 8 years, last year once bush died totally after pruning and was replaced but two others appear to have dying branches in places but are blooming in others. Do you have any recommendations? They previously were huge and bloomed all summer.
- Thank you for reaching out about your drift roses. After 8 years, it’s not uncommon to see some decline in vigor, and the symptoms you’re describing (a bush dying after pruning, and others showing partial dieback while still blooming) may have several contributing factors. Possible Causes Age & Natural Decline: Drift roses, while hardy, often start to lose vigor after 7–10 years. Decline in individual plants can be expected over time. Pruning Stress: If roses are pruned too severely or at the wrong time (late fall/early winter), it can stress the plant and increase vulnerability to dieback. Canker or Dieback Disease: Fungal cankers can cause branches to brown and die back while other parts of the shrub continue to bloom. Look for discolored, sunken, or shriveled stems. Root Stress: After many years in the same spot, soil compaction, poor drainage, or root competition from nearby shrubs can weaken roses. Environmental Stress: Last winter’s cold snaps, summer drought, or inconsistent watering can also contribute. Recommendations Inspect the Canes: Cut into affected stems. If the wood inside is brown rather than green/white, prune those branches back to healthy tissue. Sterilize pruners between cuts (70% alcohol or 10% bleach solution). Monitor for Pests/Disease: Check for signs of fungal cankers, crown gall, or borers. Mulch & Soil Health: Refresh mulch to 2–3 inches (but keep away from the crown). Consider lightly amending with compost to improve soil structure and nutrients. Watering Practices: Provide consistent deep watering during dry spells, especially since stressed plants are more susceptible to disease. Rejuvenation Option: If more bushes continue declining, you may want to replace them gradually. Consider rotating in disease-resistant shrub roses or other flowering shrubs to diversify and reduce the chance of future loss. Since one plant has already died and others are showing decline, you may be at the natural replacement stage for part of the row. Healthy roses can last many years, but staggered replacement every few years can keep the planting full and vibrant.
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Why is my swamp milkweed dying?
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Date Posted: Thu, Aug 14 - 11:54 pm
- I have an established butterfly bush and swamp milkweed plant in my yard. They’re both around 3ft tall. This year, both plants began dying fast. We haven’t dumped anything there, nothing changed as far as plants, soil, drainage, etc. with one exception. Three years ago we planted some Blue Mistflower. It never came up until this year. It is climbing the dead butterfly bush. I’ve read Blue Mistflower spreads via rhizomes and that this could potentially be the cause. Any thoughts? Other things I should check? Thanks!
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! I've connected with one of our gardeners, Pam, that has a wealth of knowledge on native plants to help give you some guidance. There has been a lot of chatter in the Virginia Native Plant Society Facebook group that this has been a banner year for milkweed aphids. Swamp milkweed seems particularly susceptible to this aphid, and you truly have “a” plant (singular), it becomes the sole target for the aphids. The aphids submit a dew that causes a fungus. Unfortunately, the picture doesn’t show the milkweed clearly enough for this to be more than a guess, but we think it’s a reasonable possibility. We wouldn’t blame the blue mist flower. Yes, it’s hardy and loves to spread, but it’s a valuable late-season food source for pollinators. We recommend planting a different companion for it. You did not mention you soil or light conditions, but the Plant RVA Natives guide (download free at vnps.org) will help identify companion plants that can hold their own with an enthusiastic spreader. Pycnanthemum muticum, clustered mountain mint, might be a possibility, and it blooms much earlier, spreading the glory. Since butterfly bush is designated invasive in Virginia, we can’t ethically recommend trying to save it or replacing it with another. But its loss provides an opportunity to plant more natives. If you have additional questions about natives, Pam will be at the West End Branch of the Richmond Public Library on Wednesday afternoons after Labor Day. You are welcome to stop in and chat with her more!
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Planting Natives in Yard
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 22 - 10:05 am
- Hello! I moved into a new home in the past year and my yard is pretty much a blank slate. I love a flower-filled garden, but my yard is almost entirely shade due to an extraordinary, 100+ year old Tulip Poplar. Do you have any suggestions for flowers or colorful plants that would thrive in my shady yard? I am interested in keeping my yard native. Thank you!
- Hello Bethany! How exciting to have a yard that is a blank slate to fill with native plants! One resource I will share with you is https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives This guide gives you a wealth of information about native plants and landscaping. I'll also reach out to you via e-mail to see if we can connect with you more to provide more specific recommendations.
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Pruning limelight hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 15 - 10:37 pm
- I read that hydrangea blossoms need to be cut by the end of July or the plant won’t blossom next year. I have a limelight hydrangea. Is that true?
- Thanks for reaching out! That advice applies only to hydrangeas that bloom on old wood, like bigleaf (macrophylla) or oakleaf (quercifolia) varieties. These set their flower buds in late summer or early fall, so pruning late removes next year’s blossoms. But Limelight hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’) is a panicle hydrangea, which blooms on new wood—the current year’s growth For limelight hydrangeas, we recommend pruning in late winter or early spring, before new buds emerge. You can prune again in fall or winter to remove dead wood and shape the plant. It is not necessary that you prune your limelight by the end of July - you can continue to enjoy blossoms through the summer!
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Pruning Oakleaf Hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Fri, Jul 11 - 12:54 am
- I have an oakleaf hydrangea that has grown too large for its spot in my yard here in Richmond. When is the best time to cut it back and should I cut its branches close to the trunk? Can it be encouraged to grow more vertically and not spread out horizontally?
- Thank you for your question about your oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)! I frequently walk past the ones Maymont has in their parking lot at the nature center and am always admiring how beautiful they are but they can indeed outgrow their space over time. Timing: The best time to prune oakleaf hydrangeas is shortly after they finish blooming, typically in late June through early August here in Richmond. These shrubs bloom on old wood, meaning they form next year’s flower buds on stems grown the previous year. Pruning in late summer or fall will likely remove those buds and reduce flowering the following year. How to prune: Avoid cutting branches all the way back to the trunk. Instead, remove about 1/3 of the oldest, thickest stems at the base to encourage new growth and improve shape. You can also shorten some of the remaining stems to reduce overall size and guide the shape—just make cuts back to a bud or side branch. Encouraging vertical growth: Oakleaf hydrangeas naturally have a broad, spreading habit. While you can’t dramatically change this growth pattern, you can encourage a more upright form by thinning out wide-angled branches and encouraging vertical shoots, selectively removing outward-growing stems to reduce width, and/or using light staking or support for young vertical stems if needed (though this is more effective in younger plants). If the space is truly too small for the mature size of your shrub, long-term, you might consider relocating it in the fall or early spring when it’s dormant. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Hydrangea Pruning
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Date Posted: Wed, Jun 04 - 1:52 am
- Hello! My hydrangeas need some help. I inherited them with my new to me house in late fall, so this spring was my first opportunity to prune. They were already overgrown from the past owners. For the big leaf hydrangeas: I missed the fall pruning, so these haven't had a haircut since who knows when. The branches are getting weighed down from the weight of the flower and leaves, and the plant is very leggy. Should I try and start selectively and slowly clipping them back now or wait until they're done blooming and do it one big chop? If now, do I cut the old leggy wood back, or just the new green branches that are stemming from the old leggy wood (the two blooms on the top of the left bush are an example)? For the panicle hydrangea in the middle: I cut what I thought was way back this spring, but clearly not enough! Should I be trying to selectively trim some of this back now or bite the bullet and wait until spring and do a big chop? It's so tall and it's only May! Thank you!
- Thanks for reaching out—and congratulations on your new home and garden! It sounds like you’re giving your hydrangeas some thoughtful attention, which they’ll definitely appreciate. The blooms are beautiful! Here’s a breakdown of how to approach pruning both your bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) and your panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata): Bigleaf Hydrangeas : These bloom on old wood, meaning the flower buds for this summer formed last year. That’s why heavy spring pruning can often result in fewer blooms. Since yours are blooming now, I'd recommend that you hold off on major pruning until after they finish flowering—typically by mid to late summer. Then you can: Remove about 1/3 of the oldest, leggiest stems at the base to encourage new growth from the bottom and lightly shape the plant by shortening stems that look untidy or weighed down. Avoid pruning after August, however, as that risks cutting off next year’s flower buds. In the meantime, if any branches are flopping badly or blocking paths, you can do a light, selective trim now—just avoid heavy cuts that remove flower buds. Panicle Hydrangeas: These bloom on new wood, so you have more flexibility with timing. You’re absolutely right that they can grow quickly in spring! For now, you can lightly thin or shorten a few of the tallest stems to maintain a more manageable shape but avoid cutting more than 1/3 of the plant this time of year. If it’s still too tall for your space, plan for a more significant structural pruning next late winter/early spring, before new growth starts. General Tips: Always cut just above a pair of healthy buds or a leaf node. Use clean, sharp pruners to avoid disease. Consider adding mulch and checking soil drainage if plants look stressed or leggy—bigleaf hydrangeas especially like evenly moist (but not soggy) soil.
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Rhododendron Questions
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Date Posted: Thu, May 08 - 11:14 pm
- I have an established rhododendron and a couple of questions 1. Some leaves tern yellow and die and fall off 2. Others show yellowing but remain 3. New shoots form at the base but die never to mature 4 is there any way to encourage new growth on the old branches
- Thanks for reaching out with your rhododendron questions! You’ve made some great observations, and your plant is definitely trying to tell you something. Here are a few possible explanations and tips based on what you described: Yellowing and Leaf Drop: Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal, especially for older inner leaves. However, widespread or early-season yellowing in Richmond can also point to stress from heat or underlying root issues, particularly since rhododendrons are naturally cool-climate, understory plants. Our warm springs and hot summers can make them more susceptible to systemic diseases or environmental stress. Persistent Yellow Leaves: This could be a sign of sun stress—rhododendrons prefer morning sun with dappled afternoon shade. Too much direct, hot afternoon sun can cause the kind of yellowing you're seeing. Poor drainage or soil that’s too alkaline can also cause nutrient uptake issues, leading to chlorosis (leaf yellowing). New Shoots Dying Back: When new shoots at the base fail to mature, it often points to root zone stress, such as poor drainage, fungal root diseases, or heat stress. Check that mulch isn't piled too high against the base and that the soil is staying moist but not soggy. Encouraging New Growth on Old Branches: Yes! Light pruning in early spring, just after flowering, can stimulate new growth. Avoid heavy pruning all at once; instead, gradually thin out leggy or unproductive branches over time. Make cuts just above a healthy bud or leaf whorl to encourage branching. Good luck with your rhododendron!
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Chiggers
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Date Posted: Sat, May 03 - 11:49 am
- I live in a lovely wooded area in Doswell. I am overwhelmed with chiggers. I keep the lawn cut but the property has many flower beds that are crowded with perennials that were lovingly planted by the original owners. I wear protective clothing and use bug spray when I go out but they still get me - and I react badly to the bites. I hate to use insecticide but it's that or a blowtorch :-0 Any advice?
- Thank you for reaching out—and we definitely understand your frustration! Chiggers can make it tough to enjoy your beautiful landscape, especially in wooded or densely planted areas like yours in Doswell. We don't have a lot of issues with chiggers here in the city, so you may also consider reaching out to your local extension office for suggestions. Chiggers thrive in areas with dense vegetation, leaf litter, tall grasses, and shade—exactly the kinds of cozy habitats found in perennial flower beds and wooded edges. They’re most active in warm, humid months and often hang out in transition zones between lawn and woods or garden beds and open space. First and foremost, Since chiggers often crawl upward before biting, tucking pants into socks and applying repellent around ankles and waistbands is key. Products containing permethrin (for treating clothing, not skin) and DEET or picaridin (for skin) can be more effective than natural repellents if you're especially sensitive to bites. Also, try taking showers immediately after working in or near your flower beds to try to wash off chiggers before they have the opportunity to bite. Here are a few non-chemical approaches to cutting back your chiggers population: Targeted Cleanup 1. Trim back or divide overgrown perennials to increase airflow and sunlight penetration. 2. Remove excess mulch, leaves, or plant debris where chiggers hide and lay eggs. 3. Keep a buffer strip (about 3 feet wide) of closely mowed lawn or bare mulch between wooded or bedded areas and your walking paths to reduce exposure. Natural Deterrents 1. Diatomaceous earth is controversial but if it is something you are comfortable using over chemicals, it can be dusted lightly in problem areas—it's safe for people and pets but harms all soft-bodied insects and mites (including chiggers). 2. Cedarwood oil products (like Wondercide) may help repel mites and are more environmentally friendly than synthetic pesticides. Beneficial Wildlife 1. This on is always one of my favorites although can be slower to see results - Encourage birds, predatory insects, and spiders that naturally reduce mite populations. A birdbath or native plants that attract wrens and chickadees can be helpful. Good luck! This can be a frustrating situation and we hope you will be able to make some progress and continue to enjoy your beautiful flower beds!
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Converting Lawn to natives
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 26 - 9:39 pm
- I saw in some other responses that the Master Gardener applications started last September and have since closed. Could I be added to the list to receive information when it becomes available again?! I was also curious if y'all had any suggestions for building a grass yard with native grasses and fewer 'weeds.' Would poverty grass be an option? I rent currently, but I don't want that to stop us from building a home that supports native biodiversity!! Thank you so much! :)
- Thanks so much for reaching out—and big kudos to you for wanting to support native biodiversity, even as a renter. Creating a lawn or greenspace with native grasses is a fantastic way to help pollinators, improve soil health, and reduce maintenance and chemical inputs. You're right to consider poverty oatgrass (Danthonia spicata)—it’s a great native grass for our region! It’s clump-forming, drought-tolerant, and performs well in poor soils, which makes it an excellent choice for naturalized lawn areas. However, it doesn’t behave quite like traditional turf—it grows in tufts, so you may want to pair it with other species for fuller coverage. While none of these will act quite like turf grass, here are a couple of others you could consider: Virginia Wildrye (Elymus virginicus) – Grows well in part shade and moist soils. Tolerates mowing, though it’s bunch-forming. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Gorgeous color and structure, though not turf-like. Best for meadows and border plantings. I love mixing this one into flower beds for beautiful color pops! Purpletop (Tridens flavus) – Soft and airy with a lovely purple seed head; adds diversity and texture. River Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) – A beautiful grass for partly shaded areas, but it can spread aggressively. Personally, I love growing this grass in pots and listening to the oats rustle in the wind! (That being said, another great way to add more natives, especially as a renter is to grow them in pots!) This one will be much stalkier than normal turf grass. For a lawn substitute, you could also consider Carex species (native sedges), which resemble turf when mowed and tolerate partial shade: carex crinita and carex vulpinoidea are a couple that typically do well in our area. Hope this helps get you on the path you are looking to be on! And I'll send you an email to follow up about being on the list for information about our next class!
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Creating Privacy Screen with Natives
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 31 - 5:07 pm
- I am finally removing the Japanese privet and coral ardisia that has been growing along our wrap-around porch for 15+ years. What native trees or shrubs would be a good replacement? They'll be on the north side of the house in the shade of a large holly tree, and we'd like them to provide a visual block from a busy road.
- We love to hear that you are planning to plant more natives in your yard! Since your planting site is on the north side of the house and shaded by a large holly tree, the soil is likely to stay on the drier side due to root competition and limited rainfall reaching the ground. Here are some ideas of excellent natives that help create a screen to help get you started: Wax Myrtle (Morella cerifera): will create a nice evergreen hedge which might be appropriate for the first 10 feet of the screen. Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana): this will create a fairly dense privacy screen. There are dwarf varieties available so you don’t have to contend with the potential of 40 ft tall screen. You could also consider incorporating some flowering plants along the line of evergreens , or plant in front of the hedge: Chickasaw Plum (Prunus angustifolia): A non deciduous small tree that would add color and fruit for wildlife. Coastal Plain Service-berry (Amelanchier obovalis): A multiple-trunk tree or shrub, 12 to 25 feet tall. I would also recommend taking a look over these resources, as they may help you pick out plants that are better suited for your particular space and preferences: Plant RVA Natives: https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives Virginia Native Plant Society: https://vnps.org/ Digital Atlas of the Virginia Flora: https://vaplantatlas.org/