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Growing Elderberries
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 12 - 12:43 pm
- Hello! I was just gifted a native elderberry and I'm looking for some advice. I also plan to get another one so they can bear fruit. I've been watching tons of videos but they all seem contradictory! I live in Richmond (Battery Park) with an urban yard - it's a bit bigger than typical row house size, and bordered by a shared fence on each side. I have a few areas to plant the elderberry where it will get at least 8 hours of full sun a day. My concern is that I want to keep the bush somewhat contained - I know they can grow quite large, but is there a way to prune it so it stays under 7-8 feet but still bears fruit? And, do you have any advice on how to stay on top of root suckers? I'm not sure how far the suckers will travel, but if they head into my neighbors yard I obviously wouldn't be able to see the sprout to know where to cut the root. I also heard the roots are quite hardy, so I'm trying to consider whether to plant near a retaining wall. In the videos I'm watching the plants all seem pretty naturally contained (versus something like blackberry which gets out of control), but I want to do everything I can to help out. Hoping I can make this work! I appreciate any advice you have. If helpful, I can send a photo of my backyard. Thank you, Julie
- What a lovely gift! I hope this will be something you are able to enjoy for years to come. And you are right! You will need a second one for cross pollination. We don't typically think of elderberries being wildly invasive, so I'd expect with your awareness of the need to keep an eye out for suckers, and your desire to prune it to keep it at a reasonable size, you will be pleased with your elderberry. A couple of pruning tips: Once the plant is established (after year 1 or 2), you can cut back about 1/3 of the oldest stems to the ground each year to encourage new growth. To keep overall height in check, you can also cut the remaining stems back to your desired height (just above strong buds). Many gardeners cut stems to about 3–4 feet in early spring, which results in a bush that finishes around 6–8 feet tall by summer. Managing suckers: You’re right—elderberries do sucker from the roots and can spread over time, though they are usually less aggressive than blackberries. The suckers typically emerge within a few feet of the main plant, though they can travel farther in ideal conditions. To manage them, check around the base of the plant regularly during the growing season and cut suckers at the soil line or dig back to the root and clip at the source. You might also consider planting your elderberries in a root barrier ring—digging a trench and installing landscape edging 12–18" deep around the planting area to contain the roots. Planting near a retaining wall: Elderberry roots aren’t known for damaging structures like a retaining wall, but they are persistent. If you're concerned about suckers creeping into a neighbor’s yard or through shared fences, planting 3–5 feet away from those boundaries is a good buffer. That space also makes it easier to walk around the plant and manage pruning or harvesting. Hope this helps as you decide where to plant! Best of luck to you! Hope you will enjoy your elderberries for years to come.
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Creating Privacy Screen with Natives
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 31 - 5:07 pm
- I am finally removing the Japanese privet and coral ardisia that has been growing along our wrap-around porch for 15+ years. What native trees or shrubs would be a good replacement? They'll be on the north side of the house in the shade of a large holly tree, and we'd like them to provide a visual block from a busy road.
- We love to hear that you are planning to plant more natives in your yard! Since your planting site is on the north side of the house and shaded by a large holly tree, the soil is likely to stay on the drier side due to root competition and limited rainfall reaching the ground. Here are some ideas of excellent natives that help create a screen to help get you started: Wax Myrtle (Morella cerifera): will create a nice evergreen hedge which might be appropriate for the first 10 feet of the screen. Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana): this will create a fairly dense privacy screen. There are dwarf varieties available so you don’t have to contend with the potential of 40 ft tall screen. You could also consider incorporating some flowering plants along the line of evergreens , or plant in front of the hedge: Chickasaw Plum (Prunus angustifolia): A non deciduous small tree that would add color and fruit for wildlife. Coastal Plain Service-berry (Amelanchier obovalis): A multiple-trunk tree or shrub, 12 to 25 feet tall. I would also recommend taking a look over these resources, as they may help you pick out plants that are better suited for your particular space and preferences: Plant RVA Natives: https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives Virginia Native Plant Society: https://vnps.org/ Digital Atlas of the Virginia Flora: https://vaplantatlas.org/
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Fruit trees for shade
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 12 - 1:52 am
- Hello! We have an empty corner in our yard that I'd like to fill with a fruit-bearing tree. This side of the house is north-facing and has several tall oaks creating lots of shade. Would a pawpaw work in this environment? Do you have other native tree suggestions? Thanks!
- Hello! A pawpaw tree (Asimina triloba) could be a great option for your north-facing yard with shade from tall oaks. Pawpaws are native understory trees, meaning they naturally grow in forested environments with limited sunlight. They can thrive in partial shade, but for the best fruit production, they benefit from a few hours of dappled sunlight. In deep shade, they may grow more slowly and produce less fruit. We want to point out that pawpaws prefer moist, well-drained soil. In nature, they are often found in fertile bottomlands, along riverbanks, and in the understory of hardwood forests, where the soil retains moisture but does not stay waterlogged. If you choose pawpaws, it’s best to plant at least two for cross-pollination, as they are not self-fertile. Other native fruit-bearing trees and shrubs that do well in shade include: Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) – A small native tree that tolerates partial shade and produces sweet, blueberry-like fruit. American Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) – This tree can handle some shade but fruits best with at least partial sun. It takes several years to begin producing fruit but is a hardy and rewarding choice. Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) – A shrub that thrives in moist, partly shaded areas and produces berries loved by both people and wildlife. Black Cherry (Prunus serotina) – A native tree that tolerates some shade and produces small, dark fruits that attract birds and can be used in jams and jellies. Here is a great resource from another Virginia master gardener unit that you can reference: https://fairfaxgardening.org/shade-fruits/ Let us know if you have any additional questions.
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Blueberries and Lavender
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:37 pm
- Hello, I have 3 questions - I have blueberry bushes that were not properly tended to over the summer heat. They produced lovely berries but since have grown scraggly and I need to trim them back. Is there a proper time and way to do this? I have attempted several times to take cuttings and start new plants. Failed every time. Any suggestions? I have lavender plants in front of the blueberry bushes. They are half alive and half dead. Do I need to move them? I am thinking it is from the overgrowth of limbs from the blueberry bushes but not certain. I am presently in the tedious process of soaking the ground in the evenings and pulling the grass and weeds that surround them. I appreciate your help.
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! You have several great questions that we will do our best to give you some guidance on: 1. When to prune blueberry bushes: The best time to prune blueberries is in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing helps the bush recover and grow new shoots for the coming season. You could also have done some light pruning after harvesting, particularly if you noticed any dead or diseased branches. Regular, light pruning is usually better than infrequent, heavy pruning. Always make clean cuts and avoid leaving stubs, as these can become entry points for pests or diseases. 2. How to prune blueberry bushes: Start by cutting out any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. This helps improve air circulation and reduces the risk of pests and diseases. If the bush is very dense, selectively remove some of the older, thicker branches from the center of the plant to improve airflow and light penetration. This encourages better fruit development. Blueberry bushes produce the most fruit on new growth. Cut back older branches that are more than 6 years old to promote the growth of new, fruitful shoots. Aim for a well-rounded shape, which helps the bush maintain balance and supports better fruit production. Trim to keep the bush to a manageable size and shape, typically removing no more than a third of the plant's height in one season. During the growing season, you can also trim any overly vigorous shoots that might be crowding the plant, encouraging a more balanced structure. 3. Using cuttings to start new plants: The best time to take blueberry cuttings is from late summer to early fall when the wood is semi-hard but not yet fully mature. Choose cuttings from healthy, vigorous plants. Look for shoots that are not too old or too young. Ideally, the cuttings should be from the current season's growth and about 4-6 inches long. If possible, select shoots that haven't flowered, as they will have more energy to put into growing roots. - Preparing Cuttings: Make a clean cut just below a node (the point where leaves attach to the stem). This is where the roots are most likely to develop. Strip off the lower leaves, leaving a few at the top. This reduces moisture loss and encourages root growth. Although optional, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone can improve the chances of successful rooting. Rooting hormone is available in powder, gel, or liquid form. -Planting: Use a well-draining rooting medium like a mix of peat moss and perlite or sand. You can also use a commercial rooting mix. Insert the cuttings into the rooting medium about 1-2 inches deep. Firm the soil around them to ensure good contact. -Care: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water the cuttings gently to avoid displacing them. Cover the cuttings with a plastic bag or place them in a greenhouse or a propagation chamber to maintain high humidity. Ensure the cover does not touch the cuttings to avoid mold. Place the cuttings in a location with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can be too intense for young cuttings. -Transplanting: After about 8-12 weeks, check for root development by gently tugging on the cuttings. If you feel resistance, roots have formed. Rooting can take time, so be patient and avoid disturbing the cuttings too soon. Once roots are established, transplant the cuttings into small pots with a potting mix suitable for blueberries or a mix of peat and perlite. Gradually acclimate the young plants to outdoor conditions by exposing them to more light and outdoor temperatures over a couple of weeks. 4. Caring for lavender plants: Lavender plants can be a bit finicky, but several common issues could be causing them to struggle or die. Here are a few things to think about: Lavender needs well-draining soil. Heavy, clayey, or waterlogged soils can lead to root rot. Consider improving drainage by adding sand or gravel to the soil, or planting in raised beds or containers with good drainage. Lavender prefers slightly alkaline to neutral soil, ideally with a pH between 6.7 and 7.3. You can test your soil’s pH with a kit and amend it if necessary. Lavender is drought-tolerant and doesn’t like to sit in wet soil. Water sparingly and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause root rot and other issues. While lavender prefers less frequent watering, it still needs some moisture, especially in hot, dry conditions. Ensure it gets enough water during prolonged dry spells. Lavender requires full sun to thrive, which means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If it’s not getting enough light, it can become leggy and weak. Lavender generally prefers temperate climates. Extreme cold or heat can stress the plant Lavender doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer. Fungal diseases like root rot, powdery mildew, and rust can affect lavender. Ensure proper spacing for air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce disease risk. Lavender benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape and health. Prune after flowering to remove spent blooms and encourage new growth. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems, as they may not regenerate. Blueberries and lavender can be successfully planted together, but there are a few things to think about to ensure both plants thrive. Both blueberries and lavender prefer acidic to neutral soil. Blueberries thrive in a pH of 4.5 to 5.5, while lavender prefers a pH of around 6.7 to 7.3. This difference in pH requirements means you’ll need to find a balance or be prepared to amend the soil appropriately. Both plants need full sun to grow well. Ensure they receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Both plants require well-draining soil. Blueberries are prone to root rot in poorly drained soils, and lavender, though drought-tolerant, also dislikes wet feet. Blueberries need consistent moisture, especially during the growing season, whereas lavender prefers drier conditions and is more tolerant of drought. Overwatering can lead to issues for both plants, so careful watering practices are necessary. We hope this will give you some guidance for moving forward. Happy gardening!
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Fruit tree grafting
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 23 - 10:36 pm
- Good Day! I am curious about fruit tree grafting. Specifically I am wondering about grafting fruit trees onto existing non-fruiting rootstock in my yard. Does that work? Are there parameters to making it work, as in, will it work but only with specific rootstock? My yard has some well established trees including some invasive mulberry. I would hope that the mulberry could be used, but I am also hopeful for the rest. Thanks for any advice you can offer.
- This is a great question! We are only aware of fruit trees being grafted onto rootstock of a similar species. For example, blueberries on to other blueberries, pawpaws on to other pawpaws, etc. We're still looking into this for you to see if we can find any example about grafting onto non-fruiting rootstock. If we do find information that supports this, we will follow up with an e-mail to you. In the mean time, you could try reaching out to fruit growers who may be more equipped to answer your question. A couple that come to mind that could be good resources for you is Agriberry here in Richmond and Edible Landscaping in Afton VA. Good luck!
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Vegetables and Fruits for shady areas
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 28 - 1:00 am
- Are there any fruits or vegetables that would grow well in a pretty shady area? My property has a lot of trees but I would like to try growing edible plants if possible!
- Yes! There are a few vegetable options for shady areas: 1. Salad greens like arugula, spinach, endive and other lettuces. 2. Leafy Greens like swiss chard, collards, kale and mustard greens. 3. Root veggies like carrots, beets, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga and turnips. 4. Brassica veggies like broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and cabbage. 4. herbs The Fairfax Master Gardeners have a great article about shade tolerant fruits. In their article they say: "Gooseberries, red currants and elderberries are the most shade tolerant fruit we can grow in Virginia. Blueberries and some figs will produce a decent crop in light to moderate shade. Serviceberries, pawpaws and cherry trees are small, understory trees that can bear abundant crops." You can find the full article here: https://fairfaxgardening.org/shade-fruits/ Now is a great time to be planning your spring plantings! Happy Gardening!
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Browning Dwarf Arborvitae
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Date Posted: Wed, Oct 11 - 12:47 am
- Dwarf Arborvitae has brown sections, on am effort to cut them out, it appears black underneath. What is happening? Thank you.
- I'm sorry you are having these concerns with your Dwarf Arborvitae. The first thing that comes to my mind is canker. Canker is infected wounds in the branches caused by fungi. Wounds can be caused by pruning, storm damage, cold damage, or excessive wetness. In plants with canker, you will observe yellow to reddish-brown branches in the middle of healthy green branches. Closer to base of the branch you may see slightly sunken, reddish cankers with profusely exuding resin. Black pustule-like fruiting bodies known as pycnidia may be seen breaking through the bark. There is no real treatment for canker stem diseases. The fungus survives in infected bark tissues, so it is best to prune all infected branches about 3-4 inches below the canker area. Spread of the fungus can be minimized by sterilizing any blades used between all cuts with a 10 percent bleach or 70 percent alcohol solution. Try to prevent damage to trees. Stressed and wounded plants are more likely to be infested. It is best to keep dwarf trees as open as possible so that they will dry out after rain. Prune to allow air flow in plants. Clean out leaves from the insides of shrubs. Do not bury plants too deep in mulch. Prune out infected branches and fertilize affected trees if needed. Good luck!!
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Vegetable pests
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Date Posted: Fri, Oct 07 - 9:01 pm
- Pole Beans: I planted (for the first time) some cold hardy plants at the end of summer. My pole beans grew in strong, but are now being decimated -- the leaves are bubbly and stems are severed. Some leaves have been chewed. I have been out there multiple times at various points in the day and I can't see anything. I put some sticky yellow bug catchers out there and it caught some tiny little flies and a small Beatle, but something else is still killing my vegetable. Vine Borer - Squash - Yes I had them and they killed my zucchini and spaghetti squash. I hear they overwinter. I planted several other squash plants after the annihilation of my squash (before I found out they stick around). They got 50% -- the others survived only because I covered the stem with foil to prevent the critters from entering. But, how do I extinguish them? Last question: I had two tomato issues. 1. some look like Chinese paper lanterns, with nothing inside of them, just a fragile green shell of a tomato. 2. Lots of blooms, lots of pollinators visiting, no tomatoes. You are probably thinking 'just give up gardening' - but I'm hoping to learn, so I can do better next year. Thank you. Julie
- Dear Julie, You've had a tough summer! Actually, the summer was pretty hard on many living things. I'm going to start with your tomato question first. I'm wondering what type of tomato you planted? I've never come across an issue like this so I have to wonder about the seed or transplant you used. It sounds like it's a tomatillo, rather than tomato. In regard to the non-fruiting issue, I have to wonder about when you planted the tomato, did you plant so that tomatoes would have enough time to mature? Some tomatoes require a longer time to mature and fruit. There are varieties like Early Girl which may be a better bet for you if you're planting a little later or you simply want an earlier crop when planted at the appropriate time. Those are my best guesses. Squash vine borers are tough to deal with. Organic controls for squash vine borers include growing resistant varieties-butternut or the italian heirloom summer squash-tromboncino (a vigorous vining variety), crop rotation is critical, using row covers, passive traps, and surgical removal. The beans may be affected by mexican bean beetles. It's hard to say and I'm not sure why the leaves are bubbled, could be a blight? I'm attaching a document from the VA Tech extension website. There is a good summary of tips on vegetable gardening. I think you will find it useful-- https://ext.vt.edu/lawn-garden/home-vegetables.html You seem like a very observant and dedicated gardener, those are the best qualities for good results. Do not give up!! Best of luck!
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Native plants
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Date Posted: Thu, Sep 15 - 9:44 pm
- I have an east-facing front yard in the Museum District and have approximately 12X 6 feet of space to work with. We recently got a retaining wall put in, and so it is a fresh canvas. The space gets full sun at least half the day. I love native plants, and particularly those that would remain evergreen in the winter. Any suggestions?
- Hello there, so nice to start fresh! I'm glad to hear you are interested in using native plants. I'm assuming the space is 12 feet wide and 6 feet deep. You'll probably want to start by creating some structure with shrubs. For evergreen green shrubs you could use inkberry (ilex glabra). There are many varieties of this plant, some have a loose form whiele others have a tighter globe shape and there are large and smaller sizes as well. So there's an inkberry to fit most spaces and styles. Mountain laurel is also another lovely evergreen plant with beautiful blooms in spring. Dog hobble or more commonly just Leucothoe (axillaris) is another nice evergreen. There is a variegated variety if you want to brighten up a space. You may also want to try evergreen bayberry (morella caroliniensis). In addition to these evergreens, there is virginia sweetspire (itea virginica) which has a nice drape to its shape, panicles of white flowers and beautiful fall color. Another good shrub is pepperbush (clethra alnifolia) with white to pink flowers (depending on variety) which is wonderfully fragrant. There is a smaller-sized variety that would fit in most gardens. Many of the plants in the blueberry family - early lowbush and deerberry (vaccinum pallida+vaccinum stamineum) have gorgeous fall color and colored bare stems in winter. Their spring flowers are delicate and beautiful and their fruits add to their appeal. I know you have a small space but I wanted to give a good number of options so you can pick and choose. Once you have a plan, you can decide what you want to place where. After placing the shrubs, you can then think about adding some lovely native ferns, perennials and/or ground cover, whatever space will allow. Before deciding on plants and placement, you should have a soil test done if you haven't already. You can amend if necessary and as an annual ritual, add compost to nourish you plantings. You can get a soil test kit at your local library when the Master Gardener Help Desk is in operation. Call your local library to find out the day and time. For additional information I suggest checking out this website and using the plant guides for the Capital region and NOVA-- https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives. Best of luck with the new garden!
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Pests
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Date Posted: Sat, Jul 23 - 4:51 pm
- What's wrong with my tomatoes? I've been gardening for years, but have never seen this issue with tomatoes before. This is my first time gardening in Hanover, VA. I believe the space has been used for gardening before. I didn't do a soil test. The only soil amendment has been bloodmeal. All of my tomatoes, regardless of size, look fine while green, but as they ripen, they appear to have white spots underneath the skin. When I cut them open, they all have a sort of white pithiness throughout the outer flesh just under the skin. The flavor is okay but the skins are tough and crunchy, and it's consistent throughout the 6 varieties I've planted. I haven't seen any issues with the foliage. I'm really stumped on this one but I am wondering if this is a new-to-me disease or an outcome of inconsistent watering (due to some unforeseen circumstances, they're largely surviving on what falls from the sky plus one weekly watering). I saw a few earlier in the season that have blossom end rot, but these ones don't have decay at the blossom end. Any thoughts? Thanks for your insights!
- Hello there, this does sound discouraging!! I have to admit that I have never had this issue but I did a little research and found some resources that may help you. The first website is from Texas A&M. It's useful because it shows pictures of ripe fruit in trouble and identifies the problem. I'm making a guess that Cloudy Spot might be your issue. Of course, I must emphasize that this is a guess, having never seen the problem you describe firsthand. Cloudy Spot indicates stink bug infestation--https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/problem-solvers/tomato-problem-solver/ripe-fruit/. If that's right, the VA Tech website has a video on how to trap the culprit--https://vtx.vt.edu/articles/2019/10/Stink_bug_Media_Advisory2019.html, I like this solution because there is no chemical insecticide involved. The trap in the video was created to trap the bugs in homes but can easily be used in the garden as well. If my guess is wrong, you have another option. VA Tech has a plant disease clinic where samples can be tested and identified. Because Richmond City does not currently have an extension agent due to a staffing vacancy, you can contact the Chesterfield office and get the details on submitting samples. There is a $35 fee as well as paperwork that must be submitted with the sample(s). You can contact them at this email address-- Chesterfield MG Help Desk: vce@chesterfield.gov. Best of luck sorting this out!!