Master Gardener – Search
Searching: insects
If you don't see the answer you're looking for, try submitting your question.
Native Plant Options for a Challenging Urban Site
-
Date Posted: Wed, Sep 09 - 2:03 am
- I'm the Business Operations Coordinator for Tribeca Kitchen & Hospitality, opening soon next to Movieland on Arthur Ashe Blvd. Attached is an image of the sandy and rocky soil in front of the building. The owner would like to just place mulch over it, but I was wondering if there was a cost effective solution using plants (even better if they're natives) that would survive and thrive in these soil conditions.
- Thank you for reaching out, and congratulations on the upcoming opening! This could definitely be an opportunity to incorporate plants rather than covering the entire area with mulch. Looking at your photo, my first concern would actually be what is underneath the sandy/gravelly surface. This appears to be a heavily disturbed site, which is common around construction. There may be compacted subsoil, construction fill, or very little actual topsoil present. Before investing in plants, we would recommend digging a few test holes to see what is beneath the surface and submitting a soil sample through Virginia Cooperative Extension. A soil test can tell you the pH and nutrient levels, while digging into the site will give you a better idea of soil depth, compaction, and drainage. The good news is that you don't necessarily need to replace everything with rich topsoil. In fact, many Virginia native plants do well in relatively lean soils, and adding large amounts of compost or fertilizer isn't routinely recommended when the plants are appropriately matched to the site. The bigger issue may be loosening severe compaction and making sure there is enough soil for roots to establish. If this area receives six or more hours of sun and drains quickly, there are a number of Virginia natives worth considering for a tough, relatively low-maintenance planting. Some possibilities include: Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) – cheerful yellow flowers, adaptable to challenging sites, and valuable to pollinators. It can also reseed and help create a fuller, more naturalized planting over time. Threadleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata) – a favorite option for this site because it handles sun and relatively dry conditions well and provides a long period of bright yellow flowers. Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – another favorite for this type of location. This native grass performs well in dry, lean soils and adds height, movement, and great fall and winter interest. Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) – an excellent choice for sunny, dry, well-drained locations and an important host plant for monarch butterflies. Whorled milkweed (Asclepias verticillata) – tolerates relatively dry soil and provides additional value for pollinators. Purple lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis) – a native grass with airy purple-pink seed heads that can be particularly attractive when planted in groups. Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) – adaptable, drought tolerant once established, and useful for filling spaces between larger plants. Of these, black-eyed Susan, threadleaf coreopsis, and little bluestem would be some of my personal favorites for this location. Planted together in repeating groups, they could create a simple but attractive native planting with flowers through the growing season and the little bluestem providing structure and interest into fall and winter. Rather than planting individual specimens surrounded by large expanses of mulch, I would consider mass planting a limited number of species in repeating groups. This tends to look more intentional in a commercial landscape and, as the plants mature and fill in, can reduce the amount of exposed mulch while providing habitat and food for insects and birds. You could try spreading seed this fall to help keep the project cost effective. You could also try connecting with gardeners in the Virginia Native Plant Society Group or the RVA Gardening group on facebook to see if anyone has an abundance from their yard they would be willing to share. Good luck!!
Question
Answer
Mosquito Management
-
Date Posted: Thu, Sep 03 - 6:41 pm
- Mosquitos!!! The bane of our existence here in Midlothian VA where we have lived for the last 23 years. We love to garden and spend lots of time outside. We have tried mosquito shield spray services such as Orkin, Thermacell repellents and of course Off spray and wipes. Any hour of the day, mosquitos swarm to us. In less than 5 minutes they find us no matter what. We've also tried prevention, such as cleaning out gutters, eliminating standing water etc. Do you have reports of products or prevention that have been most effective for Richmonder's wanting to spend time outdoors in their gardens? Thanks so much!
- Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately, mosquitoes can be especially challenging in our warm, humid Richmond-area summers, and it sounds like you have already tried many of the common recommendations. The most effective approach is generally to combine several mosquito-management strategies. You are already doing one of the most important things by eliminating standing water. We recommend continuing to check the property at least weekly, since mosquitoes can develop in surprisingly small amounts of water. In addition to gutters, look closely at flowerpot saucers, tarps, wheelbarrows, toys, buckets, birdbaths, corrugated drain extensions, trash/recycling containers, tree holes, and anywhere else rainwater may collect. Containers should be emptied and scrubbed, not just dumped, because mosquito eggs can remain attached to the sides. For water that cannot reasonably be emptied, such as rain barrels, some water features, or other areas of persistent standing water, consider using a mosquito larvicide containing Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis) according to the product label. These are commonly sold as mosquito dunks or bits and target mosquito larvae before they become biting adults. For personal protection while gardening, EPA-registered repellents remain one of the most reliable options. Active ingredients to look for include DEET, picaridin, IR3535, or oil of lemon eucalyptus/PMD. If you dislike the feel or smell of DEET products, you may find a picaridin-based repellent worth trying. You mentioned Thermacell products as well. These are a type of spatial repellent and can be helpful within a limited area, but their effectiveness can be affected by wind and the size of the area you are trying to protect. They may work better for sitting on a patio than for moving throughout a garden. One additional, simple option to try is air movement. Mosquitoes are relatively weak fliers, so placing a strong outdoor fan near a patio, gardening work area, or other place where you spend significant time can make that particular area much less hospitable to them. We would be cautious about relying heavily on routine whole-yard insecticide spraying, particularly in a garden with flowering plants. Products used to kill adult mosquitoes can also affect non-target insects. CDC guidance specifically recommends avoiding applications to plants in bloom or plants being visited by bees and butterflies. If you do choose professional mosquito treatment, we would suggest asking the company exactly what product they use, where they apply it, and what steps they take to minimize exposure to pollinators. Finally, if mosquito numbers are truly extreme despite diligent management on your property, the source may not be entirely within your yard. Nearby properties, drainage areas, neglected containers, or other standing water can continually produce mosquitoes that move into your garden. I hope this gives you a few additional strategies to try. Unfortunately, there isn't one product that will create a completely mosquito-free garden, but combining breeding-site reduction, larval control, personal repellents, and protection of the areas where you spend the most time can make a noticeable difference.
Question
Answer
Serviceberry TLC
-
Date Posted: Thu, Jul 31 - 10:56 pm
- My service berry tree has split bark in several places and there may be insects in the bark. There are many yellow leaves. The tree doesn’t look healthy. I planted it in the fall. Is there anything I can do to save it?
- Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your serviceberry tree is experiencing some stress, but we’ll do our best to help you support its recovery. Yellowing leaves can indicate a few things: transplant shock, water stress, or even nutrient deficiency. This is common in newly planted trees as they adjust to their environment. Split bark can also be a sign of environmental stress like rapid temperature changes in winter (known as frost cracks or sunscald), mechanical injury (e.g., weed trimmers or animals), and overwatering or underwatering. Unfortunately, splits in the bark can make the tree more susceptible to insect or disease invasion. If you see insects, they may be opportunists rather than the primary cause. What You Can Do: Inspect the trunk: Look closely at any insects you find. If you can, take a clear photo to try to ID. Mulch properly: Place a 2–3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it a few inches away from the trunk) to regulate soil temperature and moisture. Water consistently: Deeply water once a week during dry periods. Avoid overwatering—serviceberries prefer moist but well-drained soil. Prune carefully: Remove any obviously dead or damaged branches, but avoid heavy pruning during stress periods. Avoid fertilizer for now: Wait until the tree is more stable before fertilizing. It may take some time for your serviceberry to bounce back, but with proper care and monitoring, it could still recover. We wish you the best! For more information, check out: https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/serviceberry/
Question
Answer
Chiggers
-
Date Posted: Sat, May 03 - 11:49 am
- I live in a lovely wooded area in Doswell. I am overwhelmed with chiggers. I keep the lawn cut but the property has many flower beds that are crowded with perennials that were lovingly planted by the original owners. I wear protective clothing and use bug spray when I go out but they still get me - and I react badly to the bites. I hate to use insecticide but it's that or a blowtorch :-0 Any advice?
- Thank you for reaching out—and we definitely understand your frustration! Chiggers can make it tough to enjoy your beautiful landscape, especially in wooded or densely planted areas like yours in Doswell. We don't have a lot of issues with chiggers here in the city, so you may also consider reaching out to your local extension office for suggestions. Chiggers thrive in areas with dense vegetation, leaf litter, tall grasses, and shade—exactly the kinds of cozy habitats found in perennial flower beds and wooded edges. They’re most active in warm, humid months and often hang out in transition zones between lawn and woods or garden beds and open space. First and foremost, Since chiggers often crawl upward before biting, tucking pants into socks and applying repellent around ankles and waistbands is key. Products containing permethrin (for treating clothing, not skin) and DEET or picaridin (for skin) can be more effective than natural repellents if you're especially sensitive to bites. Also, try taking showers immediately after working in or near your flower beds to try to wash off chiggers before they have the opportunity to bite. Here are a few non-chemical approaches to cutting back your chiggers population: Targeted Cleanup 1. Trim back or divide overgrown perennials to increase airflow and sunlight penetration. 2. Remove excess mulch, leaves, or plant debris where chiggers hide and lay eggs. 3. Keep a buffer strip (about 3 feet wide) of closely mowed lawn or bare mulch between wooded or bedded areas and your walking paths to reduce exposure. Natural Deterrents 1. Diatomaceous earth is controversial but if it is something you are comfortable using over chemicals, it can be dusted lightly in problem areas—it's safe for people and pets but harms all soft-bodied insects and mites (including chiggers). 2. Cedarwood oil products (like Wondercide) may help repel mites and are more environmentally friendly than synthetic pesticides. Beneficial Wildlife 1. This on is always one of my favorites although can be slower to see results - Encourage birds, predatory insects, and spiders that naturally reduce mite populations. A birdbath or native plants that attract wrens and chickadees can be helpful. Good luck! This can be a frustrating situation and we hope you will be able to make some progress and continue to enjoy your beautiful flower beds!
Question
Answer
Crape Myrtle Bark Scale
-
Date Posted: Wed, Feb 28 - 12:46 am
- Other than digging up and destroying crape myrtles what is the next best solution for crape Myrtle scale?
- A systemic insecticide in the spring is the recommended treatment for Crape Myrtle Bark Scale (CMBS) . A soil drench of imidacloprid or dinotefuran is recommended when crape myrtles begin to leaf out in the spring, usually around April. Personally, I've had success with Bonide products and find them to be available at many local garden shops. Bonide has an annual tree and shrub product that has an active ingredient of imidacloprid. (Other insecticide recommendations from the extension office are available here: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/456/456-017/456-017.html) If you decided to go with an insecticidal soap spray, just be sure to refrain from applying it when pollinators or other beneficial insects such as ladybird beetles are present on the trees. If you would really prefer to stay away from insecticides, another control option is to lightly scrub the main trunks of crape myrtles with soapy water made with mild dish detergent and a stiff-bristled brush to kill and remove CMBS. This also removes some of the sooty mold and the loose exfoliating bark that shelters CMBS, exposing the scales to any spray treatments that may be applied. And finally, its important to check and be sure your control methods are working. To assess if a control treatment was effective or not: check for live CMBS by running a fingernail over the scales and looking for a pinkish-red fluid. Dead scales will be dry, but their white bodies may persist on the trunk and branches of crape myrtle until they weather off. Good luck!!
Question
Answer
Lectures for Master Gardeners
-
Date Posted: Wed, Feb 28 - 12:36 am
- Would Richmond's Master Gardener Program be interested in having a former entomology professor and EPA employee provide teaching lectures on insects (and their damage) in the garden and reading pesticide labels? I have been doing the lectures via zoom for the classes in Louisa and Fluvanna. However, I live and garden in Richmond. I would be happy to discuss lectures and lecture scheduling. Helen Hull-Sanders, Ph.D.
- Absolutely! We would love that. We aim to have lectures at each of our meetings and we are still building our schedule of speakers for this year. I will send you an e-mail to coordinate with you. Thank you so much for the offer!
Question
Answer
Crepe Myrtle Bark Scale
-
Date Posted: Thu, Feb 08 - 3:03 am
- Hello! Would you be able to recommend the best product for treating a severe case of Crepe Myrtle Bark Scale? The tree is about 5 years old and has been very healthy until last year when it got the scale. I have heard that it is best to treat with a systemic insecticide in the spring but there are a lot of products out there and the prices very quite a bit. Also if there is a better way to treat than an insecticide please let me know! Also a lot of the products recommend a treatment based on the trunk size if the crepe myrtle has multiple trunks do I add all the trunks up or should I treat based on a single trunk size? Thank you so much !
- These are great questions about Crepe Myrtle Bark Scale CMBS). I had to do a little bit of research myself to figure out how to best give you some guidance. A systemic insecticide in the spring does seem to be the recommended treatment. A soil drench of imidacloprid or dinotefuran is recommended when crape myrtles begin to leaf out in the spring, usually around April. Personally, I've had success with Bonide products and find them to be available at many local garden shops. Bonide has an annual tree and shrub product that has an active ingredient of imidacloprid. (Other insecticide recommendations from the extension office are available here: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/456/456-017/456-017.html) If you decided to go with an insecticidal soap spray, just be sure to refrain from applying it when pollinators or other beneficial insects such as ladybird beetles are present on the trees. Here are some guidelines for measuring the circumference of the tree trunk: 1. If it appears that a tree actually represents two or more trees that have their trunks pressing together, we measure the largest trunk. 2. If it appears that the tree tree is a single tree that splits below 4.5 feet, we measure at the narrowest point between the split and the ground. 3. If it appears that the tree tree is a single tree that splits above 4.5 feet, we measure the trunk at 4.5 feet. If you would really prefer to stay away from insecticides, another control option is to lightly scrub the main trunks of crape myrtles with soapy water made with mild dish detergent and a stiff-bristled brush to kill and remove CMBS. This also removes some of the sooty mold and the loose exfoliating bark that shelters CMBS, exposing the scales to any spray treatments that may be applied. And finally, its important to check and be sure your control methods are working. To asses if a control treatment was effective or not: check for live CMBS by running a fingernail over the scales and looking for a pinkish-red fluid. Dead scales will be dry, but their white bodies may persist on the trunk and branches of crape myrtle until they weather off.
Question
Answer
Lawn alternatives
-
Date Posted: Wed, May 03 - 4:23 pm
- I want to find an easier alternative ground cover to grass that is native to Virginia. I was thinking clover, but I worry because in some cases it can be more invasive. Any low maintenance ground cover plants that help improve the soil would be welcome!
- Hello there, Of course, plant selection depends on many things, exposure (north, south, east, west and combinations of those), soil type and structure, hours of direct sun, etc. I'm guessing since you have a grass lawn you are getting a good amount of sunlight. There are really no plants that are low maintenance before they become established. I've had good luck with white clover though I use it in relatively small areas and I don't have a problem with it wanting to take over the garden. If you have a large area you might want to get more creative and use a variety of plants as your ground cover (which the birds and insects will appreciate). There are a couple of native violets you could use, also phlox subulata which is evergreen and mat forming. I'm attaching a link to a website that has good information on what native plants can function as ground cover locally. Here it is- https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/reduce-lawn-area-with-native-groundcovers. I think you'll find some nice options there. Happy gardening!
Question
Answer
Ticks
-
Date Posted: Fri, Nov 04 - 8:46 pm
- I just moved into a house in North Chesterfield which has tons of trees - and therefore tons of dead leaves, needles and pine cones. I have read a lot of articles recommending to leave the dead leaves in place over winter to help beneficial insects, birds etc., but I'm worried about the potential of leaf litter giving safe haven to ticks as well. I haven't seen deer around at all, but we do get lots of squirrels, mice and birds. - To rake or not to rake?
- Hello there, Oh, what a good question. I wish I had a simple answer. The reality is that ticks are pretty much everywhere. I've known them to show up in small urban yards and, of course, in wooded areas. They're found in parks in densely populated NYC as well as beaches. So just about every environment you can imagine. I know that cleaning up leaf litter is often touted as a deterrent. It may be, but I suspect there would still be some ticks left behind. I would opt for leaving the leaves where they fall and accommodating the good bugs. There are precautions to take when working in brushy, leafy areas. Wear light clothing, a hat, tuck your shirt into your pants and tuck your pant legs into your socks. And give yourself a good look over when your done working. Keeping the area you want to spend time in or socialize in away from the wilder part of the garden is also helpful, if possible. You could keep a trimmed lawn and garden beds where you congregate and let the wilder parts of your garden take care of themselves. Here is a publication from VA Tech that you may find helpful--https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/2906/2906-1396/2906-1396.html. You will have to make your own choice regarding the leaves. Start with figuring out the pros and cons of raking/not raking, that may help guide your decision. Good luck and enjoy your new home.
Question
Answer
Soil, native plants
-
Date Posted: Tue, Sep 13 - 6:36 pm
- I have got my front yard in great shape! not the back yard :( . It looks like a baseball field with lots of dirt and not much else. My back yard gets filtered sun,, some periods of direct sun in day. I have LOTS of trees. I want to turn my back yard into a natural wooded area with native wildlife. Do you think I need to buy soil or are there lots of native plants that can thrive in clay soil w/out that. Can you think of some native plants that would thrive in that kind of area. Thanks!
- Hello there, Well, the good news is you have lots of trees! We all should....Since that's the case you must have a lot of fallen leaves come winter. What do you do with those leaves? If you aren't already, I would suggest you start a compost pile or two. Or even simpler, you can just let the leaves remain where they have fallen and accumulate. Over time you'll have your woodland base. If you would rather rake them up and compost them, that's fine too. Then make an annual habit of applying that compost to keep feeding the soil. Having all those trees is a real advantage; you have a lot of raw material with which to work. You want to build a good base that will nourish the insects, plants and animals you want in your back yard. There's a good book on permaculture - Gaia's Garden, that has lots of useful information. You'll be especially interested in chapter 4 -Bringing Soil to Life. So rather than spending a lot of money and energy on purchasing soil and amendments, and if you give the project a little bit of time, you can save that money and use it for plants! There are some plants that are suited to clay but building your soil will bring you greater benefits-again, creating a balanced home for insects, plants and animals. There's a wonderful website you can use for finding out about native plants and the habitats they thrive within. I highly recommend--https://www.plantvirginianatives.org. It's easy to use and covers a lot of territory. It's always recommended to get your soil tested to see if the soil is lacking in any nutrients. You can have that done through the Chesterfield Master Gardener program. Here's the phone number: (804) 751-4401. You can also visit your local library and speak with a master gardener and pick up a soil testing kit at the same time. Check your local library for the day and time that the master gardener help desks are active. Best of luck with this project, I think you'll have some fun!