Master Gardener – Search
Searching: lawn
If you don't see the answer you're looking for, try submitting your question.
Prune or Transplant?
-
Date Posted: Sat, Sep 12 - 1:12 am
- We have several shrubs that we planted about 3 years ago that have been thriving. I thought we had spaced everything well but they've really exploded in growth. They're all beautiful and seem healthy. We've let them get pretty wild but I am worried now that we're at the point of overcrowding. We have a Spice Girl Viburnum, a Sweet Talker Viburnum, and a Crimson Fire Loropetalum together and the Loropetalum is closest to our Flame Thrower Redbud tree. (In the pictures you'll also see Radiance Abelias but if possible, we don't want to move those as they are right along the border with our garden path). How do I decide if I just need some more intentional pruning or if it's time to move one of the plants? Which would you recommend moving? The Sweet Talker Viburnum is the one closest to the fence and there is some room to move it but is it feasible to try to shift it over if it's only a shift 6-18"? Would it be better to move the Lorapetalum? I appreciate your advice!
- Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your shrubs are very happy in their location, which is a great problem to have! After only three years, however, they may still have quite a bit of growing to do, so this is a good time to think about their mature sizes rather than just their current sizes. Some overlap between shrubs isn't necessarily a problem, particularly if you're going for a full, layered garden. The concern is when plants become crowded enough that they are competing for light and space, developing an uneven shape, rubbing against structures or neighboring plants, or requiring frequent pruning just to keep them within their allotted area. Virginia Cooperative Extension recommends spacing shrubs according to their mature size; overcrowding can eventually reduce flowering and air circulation and create competition for resources. I would start by looking up the expected mature width of each of your specific cultivars and measuring from the center of each plant to its neighbors. This will give you a better idea of whether you're dealing with vigorous young growth that can be managed with selective pruning or plants that ultimately don't have enough room. For your viburnums, I would wait until immediately after they finish blooming next spring to do any significant pruning. Spring-flowering shrubs generally form their flower buds on the previous year's growth, so pruning them now, over the winter, or early next spring would remove many of next year's flowers. When you do prune, I would favor selective thinning and removal of individual branches rather than shearing the outside of the shrub. The goal is to preserve the plant's natural shape rather than continually making it smaller. If your measurements show that the shrubs will still substantially overlap at maturity, I would consider transplanting rather than committing to increasingly heavy pruning every year. Fall, after deciduous plants enter dormancy, is a good time to move established shrubs in Virginia. I probably would not dig up an established viburnum simply to move it 6–18 inches. For a three-year-old shrub, that's quite a bit of root disturbance for relatively little additional growing room. If 6–18 inches truly resolves the mature-spacing issue, it can be done, but I would first see whether thoughtful pruning accomplishes what you need. Of the plants you mentioned, I would pay particular attention to the Crimson Fire loropetalum's relationship with the Flame Thrower redbud. The redbud will continue developing a much larger canopy and root system, so if the loropetalum is positioned where the two will increasingly interfere with one another, moving the loropetalum to a location where it has adequate room at maturity may provide a better long-term solution than repeatedly pruning it away from the tree. Since all of the plants currently look healthy, you don't necessarily need to make an immediate change. You could use this fall and winter to measure the bed and compare those measurements with the cultivars' mature sizes, then enjoy the viburnums' flowers next spring and make your pruning or transplanting decisions from there. Also, here's a great resource for pruning: https://ext.vt.edu/lawn-garden/pruning.html
Question
Answer
Ground Bees
-
Date Posted: Tue, Aug 11 - 11:24 am
- Our lawn is infested with "ground bees." They emerge in the spring for about two weeks. They do not sting, but they are an annoyance. And they are destructive of our lawn. How can we get rid of them? Are there effective insecticides? Any help will be appreciated
- Thank you for reaching out with your question. Ground bees are solitary, ground-nesting native bees that are among the first pollinators to emerge in spring. Although they often nest in large groups, each female creates and provisions her own nest. They are generally non-aggressive and rarely sting as you mentioned, and their activity typically lasts only a few weeks before the adults disappear for the remainder of the year. During the rest of the year, the developing bees remain underground until the following spring. Because they are important pollinators, Virginia Cooperative Extension recommends leaving them undisturbed whenever possible. Ground bees prefer dry, well-drained soil. If they are nesting in an area where their presence is problematic, keeping the soil moist during their brief spring nesting period can discourage them from using that location in future years. Improving turf density through proper fertilization, overseeding, and irrigation can also make lawns less attractive for nesting by reducing areas of exposed soil. Virginia Cooperative Extension does not generally recommend insecticides for ground bees because of their beneficial role as pollinators and because their active period is so short. By the time treatment is considered, they are often nearly finished nesting for the season. If the bees are creating a safety concern in a high-traffic area, you may wish to consult a licensed pest management professional, but for most situations, tolerating them for the brief period they are active is the preferred management approach. Here are two online articles that discuss ground bees that you may find helpful: https://fairfaxgardening.org/ground-nesting-bees/ https://www.richmonder.org/ground-nesting-bees-are-a-spring-phenomenon-in-richmond/
Question
Answer
"Suckering" trees
-
Date Posted: Wed, Jun 10 - 1:26 am
- Hi - we have a couple of trees that look to have “suckers” of varying lengths (an example shown below). Would an arborist be able to assist with removing these growths safely and helping to minimize future growths?
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners, and for including a very helpful photo! The growth you’re seeing are called “suckers” or epicormic shoots. In your case, these are vigorous shoots coming from the lower trunk. While the leaf shape looks consistent with the rest of the tree, the green color (compared to the purple canopy above) suggests this growth may be coming from the rootstock rather than the grafted top. You are correct to want to remove these, as they can take energy away from the upper canopy and, over time, may outcompete the desired growth if left unmanaged. If you are comfortable with pruning, many homeowners find they can remove these themselves keeping a few things in mind. First, be sure to prune each shoot back as close to the trunk as possible (don’t leave stubs). Stubs will create more suckers. Always use clean, sharp pruners. It is best to remove the suckers while they are still relatively longer. For larger or very dense growth like you have, an arborist can certainly help, but it’s not strictly necessary if you’re comfortable pruning. To help reduce future suckering: 1. Continue removing shoots promptly when they appear 2. Avoid heavy pruning of the upper canopy, which can stimulate more growth 3. Keep the tree healthy with proper watering and mulch (but avoid piling mulch against the trunk) From what I can tell from your photo, this appears to be a purple-leaf redbud, which is often grafted onto a standard green-leaf redbud rootstock. The rootstock naturally produces green leaves and tends to grow more vigorously, which seems to be what you’re seeing here. More broadly, trees often produce suckers in response to stress or disruption. Common triggers include heavy pruning or canopy loss, damage to roots or trunk (from lawn equipment, construction, etc.), environmental stress, such as drought or poor soil conditions, planting issues (like being planted too deeply or having mulch piled against the trunk), and natural growth habit of certain species or rootstocks If these shoots continue to return aggressively, it may just be the nature of the rootstock, but it can also be worth checking for any underlying stress factors.
Question
Answer
Odor from lawn
-
Date Posted: Thu, Apr 16 - 10:50 am
- Hi, we live in a townhouse in the fan that has a small backyard. This year and last we have noticed a pungent (almost skunky) scent that has started around mid-March and is gone in the winter. We think the cause is one of the plants/weeds that make up our “lawn” because the timing is just around when we start to see green again. The scent transfers to our dog when she lays in the grass. Any idea what type of plant would have this kind of smell? Or if there is anything we could do about it? I’ve attached an image of a portion of our yard but have others if that would be helpful. Many thanks!
- Thanks so much for reaching out and for sharing the photo, that’s really helpful. Based on your description of the timing and smell, one common cause we often consider is wild garlic or wild onion (Allium species), which can produce a strong, sulfur-like or “skunky” odor when crushed. However, I’m not seeing clear signs of those plants in the image you provided (they typically have distinct upright, hollow, grass-like leaves). What I do see is a mix of very common early spring lawn weeds, such as chickweed and bittercress, growing in a thin, somewhat compacted lawn. While these plants don’t usually have a strong smell individually, when they grow densely together and are disturbed by foot traffic, mowing, or a dog laying in the grass, especially when there’s some moisture present, they can release a musty, sulfur-like odor that can come across as “skunky” and can easily transfer to your dog’s coat. One other (less common) contributing factor could be compacted or poorly drained soil creating brief anaerobic conditions, which can also produce a sulfur-like smell; this is more typical in areas that stay damp, but it could be playing a small role depending on drainage. Over time, improving lawn density (particularly with fall overseeding) and reducing compaction can help crowd out these weeds and minimize the issue. In the short term, hand-pulling where feasible and giving your dog a quick rinse or wipe-down after being outside can help manage the odor.
Question
Answer
Improving Yard conditions
-
Date Posted: Mon, Jan 05 - 11:02 am
- How to thicken and greening a big yard with out reconstruction
- I apologize for the slow response to your question. I somehow did not receive the alert and just noticed the question when I was alerted to another question coming through. This is a question that needs more details for a specific response, however thickening and greening a large yard without major reconstruction is very possible, but the best approach depends on both site conditions and the end goal for the space. Before making changes, it helps to clarify whether the goal is a traditional turf lawn, a lower-maintenance landscape using native plants, or a mix of both. In general, improvements without reconstruction focus on soil health, plant selection, and management practices. Start with soil health (no digging required): Core aeration if the soil is compacted Top-dressing with compost to increase organic matter Soil testing to identify nutrient deficiencies or pH issues before fertilizing Next, match plants to both the site and the goal. If the goal is turf: Overseed with grass varieties suited to sun/shade, traffic, and moisture conditions. In Virginia, this often means tall fescue blends, fine fescues for shade, or warm-season grasses depending on location. If the goal is reduced turf: Transition difficult areas (deep shade, poor drainage, slopes, heavy traffic) to native groundcovers or mixed plantings. This can improve appearance and resilience without regrading or major removal And finally, adjust maintenance practices: Mow higher (3–4 inches for most cool-season grasses) Water deeply but infrequently Avoid over-fertilizing, which can lead to shallow roots and thinning turf Some information that would be needed to help give more specific recommendations would include sun exposure (full sun, part shade, deep shade), existing vegetation (grass type if known), size of the yard and problem areas, ultimate goal for the space (turf lawn, natives, or a combination), any recent soil test results. Feel free to follow up with us at rvamastergardeners@gmail.com. We also have some volunteers available for home consults and an in person conversation may be a great way to move forward! Thanks for reaching out to us and my apologies again for the delayed response!
Question
Answer
Extension Turf Grass program
-
Date Posted: Fri, Jul 18 - 1:26 am
- Status of turf program. Sent in $45.00 In may/ june with no confirmation so far.
- Hello! The Richmond Master Gardeners are not connected with a turf program. And I'm not personally familiar with the city of Richmond offering one, especially since the city has been without an extension agent for the last several years. I would be curious to know what address you sent it to. I was able to find that Henrico does offer a program, but that it is unfortunately suspended this year: https://henrico.ext.vt.edu/programs/anr/smartlawns.html I can try to help you find a resolution. Please email RVAmastergardeners@gmail.com with the address you used and any other information you have available and I will see if I can help you get some answers. Thank you!
Question
Answer
Preparing new garden beds for planting
-
Date Posted: Tue, Jul 15 - 10:50 pm
- I need to landscape front garden beds. what’s best to place on top of area for two months. Are tarps weighed down w/bricks okay? Arborist chips clean? I’m old so I want something easy/low maintenance. Planning on native perennials and grasses, a few shrubs/service berry.
- Thank you for your question! It sounds like you're off to a great start with a thoughtful plan for a low-maintenance, native landscape. Both of the options you suggested are great ideas for prepping your beds for planting. 1. Tarps: Yes, tarps weighed down with bricks or secured with lawn staples can work well to smother weeds and prevent new growth before planting. This method is known as "occultation." It’s easy, effective, and doesn't require much labor. Just make sure the tarp is opaque and tightly secured to prevent wind from getting underneath. I have personally had success with using black plastic and lawn staples, and am able to re-use the black plastic when I'm ready to expand the garden. 2. Arborist Wood Chips: Fresh arborist chips are also a great option, especially for a native planting. They help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and gradually improve soil as they break down. It’s fine to apply them now even if they’re “green” (fresh)—just keep them 3–6 inches deep and avoid piling them right against any existing stems or trunks. You can combine both methods too: tarp the area now, then remove the tarp and add arborist chips once you’re ready to plant. Native perennials, grasses, and a few shrubs like serviceberry are perfect choices for a low-maintenance, pollinator-friendly garden. Once established, they should need minimal watering and upkeep. Happy gardening!
Question
Answer
Chiggers
-
Date Posted: Sat, May 03 - 11:49 am
- I live in a lovely wooded area in Doswell. I am overwhelmed with chiggers. I keep the lawn cut but the property has many flower beds that are crowded with perennials that were lovingly planted by the original owners. I wear protective clothing and use bug spray when I go out but they still get me - and I react badly to the bites. I hate to use insecticide but it's that or a blowtorch :-0 Any advice?
- Thank you for reaching out—and we definitely understand your frustration! Chiggers can make it tough to enjoy your beautiful landscape, especially in wooded or densely planted areas like yours in Doswell. We don't have a lot of issues with chiggers here in the city, so you may also consider reaching out to your local extension office for suggestions. Chiggers thrive in areas with dense vegetation, leaf litter, tall grasses, and shade—exactly the kinds of cozy habitats found in perennial flower beds and wooded edges. They’re most active in warm, humid months and often hang out in transition zones between lawn and woods or garden beds and open space. First and foremost, Since chiggers often crawl upward before biting, tucking pants into socks and applying repellent around ankles and waistbands is key. Products containing permethrin (for treating clothing, not skin) and DEET or picaridin (for skin) can be more effective than natural repellents if you're especially sensitive to bites. Also, try taking showers immediately after working in or near your flower beds to try to wash off chiggers before they have the opportunity to bite. Here are a few non-chemical approaches to cutting back your chiggers population: Targeted Cleanup 1. Trim back or divide overgrown perennials to increase airflow and sunlight penetration. 2. Remove excess mulch, leaves, or plant debris where chiggers hide and lay eggs. 3. Keep a buffer strip (about 3 feet wide) of closely mowed lawn or bare mulch between wooded or bedded areas and your walking paths to reduce exposure. Natural Deterrents 1. Diatomaceous earth is controversial but if it is something you are comfortable using over chemicals, it can be dusted lightly in problem areas—it's safe for people and pets but harms all soft-bodied insects and mites (including chiggers). 2. Cedarwood oil products (like Wondercide) may help repel mites and are more environmentally friendly than synthetic pesticides. Beneficial Wildlife 1. This on is always one of my favorites although can be slower to see results - Encourage birds, predatory insects, and spiders that naturally reduce mite populations. A birdbath or native plants that attract wrens and chickadees can be helpful. Good luck! This can be a frustrating situation and we hope you will be able to make some progress and continue to enjoy your beautiful flower beds!
Question
Answer
Converting Lawn to natives
-
Date Posted: Sat, Apr 26 - 9:39 pm
- I saw in some other responses that the Master Gardener applications started last September and have since closed. Could I be added to the list to receive information when it becomes available again?! I was also curious if y'all had any suggestions for building a grass yard with native grasses and fewer 'weeds.' Would poverty grass be an option? I rent currently, but I don't want that to stop us from building a home that supports native biodiversity!! Thank you so much! :)
- Thanks so much for reaching out—and big kudos to you for wanting to support native biodiversity, even as a renter. Creating a lawn or greenspace with native grasses is a fantastic way to help pollinators, improve soil health, and reduce maintenance and chemical inputs. You're right to consider poverty oatgrass (Danthonia spicata)—it’s a great native grass for our region! It’s clump-forming, drought-tolerant, and performs well in poor soils, which makes it an excellent choice for naturalized lawn areas. However, it doesn’t behave quite like traditional turf—it grows in tufts, so you may want to pair it with other species for fuller coverage. While none of these will act quite like turf grass, here are a couple of others you could consider: Virginia Wildrye (Elymus virginicus) – Grows well in part shade and moist soils. Tolerates mowing, though it’s bunch-forming. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Gorgeous color and structure, though not turf-like. Best for meadows and border plantings. I love mixing this one into flower beds for beautiful color pops! Purpletop (Tridens flavus) – Soft and airy with a lovely purple seed head; adds diversity and texture. River Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) – A beautiful grass for partly shaded areas, but it can spread aggressively. Personally, I love growing this grass in pots and listening to the oats rustle in the wind! (That being said, another great way to add more natives, especially as a renter is to grow them in pots!) This one will be much stalkier than normal turf grass. For a lawn substitute, you could also consider Carex species (native sedges), which resemble turf when mowed and tolerate partial shade: carex crinita and carex vulpinoidea are a couple that typically do well in our area. Hope this helps get you on the path you are looking to be on! And I'll send you an email to follow up about being on the list for information about our next class!
Question
Answer
Gardening Basics
-
Date Posted: Mon, Mar 03 - 11:00 pm
- Learn basics of gardening
- It’s wonderful to hear that you’re interested in learning more about gardening! Starting out can feel a bit overwhelming, but with the right resources and a little patience, it can be incredibly rewarding. Here are a few first steps and resources to help you get started: 1. Understand Your Growing Zone: Knowing your USDA Hardiness Zone will help you choose the right plants for your area. The City of Richmond and nearby areas are in the 7b zone. (If you are outside of the city you can find your zone here by entering your zip code: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov) 2. Start Small: Consider beginning with a small garden bed, container garden, or even a few pots on a patio. Herbs, lettuce, and tomatoes are great starter plants! 3. Soil Health is Key: Good gardening starts with good soil. We always recommend getting a soil test to help understand what amendments you might need. Soil test kits are provided by the Master Gardeners through the Extension Office at many of the Richmond Public Libraries. 4. The Extension office has a lot of resources available through their website https://ext.vt.edu/lawn-garden.html and also by following their social media accounts @virginia_cooperative_extension 5. There are many gardening classes offered throughout the greater Richmond area, especially as spring arrives. You can look for classes at our local nurseries like Sneeds, Strange's and many others. Also, Lewis Ginter often has many gardening classes. 6. One of my favorite vegetable gardening books is "Grow Great Vegetables in Virginia" by Ida Wallace. This book is specific to our area and offers a lot of great step by step guidance for each month. Gardening is a rewarding hobby that helps you connect with nature, reduce stress, and enjoy the satisfaction of watching things grow. Whether you’re growing flowers, vegetables, or herbs, it brings beauty, peace, and a sense of accomplishment. I always think of it as an experiment too. Each year I learn things that worked well, as well as things that didn't. Good luck, and have fun!