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Dogwood & Crepe Myrtle
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Date Posted: Wed, Oct 14 - 1:29 am
- We recently moved into new house in Museum District and there is a Dogwood tree in the back yard that looks stressed...This is a photo from a bit ago. I checked and it is not bone dry at 3 to 5 inches down in the soil, as I realize to much or too little water can cause issues. Could it just be that there is no protection from the sun/canopy above it? Thanks for any thoughts. Also, what do you recommend for crepe myrtle that is getting the white powdery stuff on the leaves. Thanks!
- Thank you for reaching out and for sharing the photograph of your dogwood! Looking at the photo, I can definitely see why you're concerned. The leaves appear quite curled and wilted throughout the canopy, which suggests the tree is experiencing some type of stress. You are correct that sun exposure could be contributing! Flowering dogwoods are naturally understory trees, meaning they typically grow beneath the canopy of larger trees. They prefer some protection from intense afternoon sunlight, particularly during our hot Richmond summers. A dogwood growing in full sun can be more susceptible to heat and drought stress. That said, there are a few other things I would consider before concluding that sunlight is the primary issue: 1. Continue monitoring soil moisture. You're already doing the right thing by checking beneath the soil surface! Check several locations around the tree, including farther out toward the edge of the canopy. The goal is consistently moist, but not waterlogged, soil. Deep watering when needed is generally better than frequent shallow watering. Also, check the drainage. Dogwoods prefer well-drained soil and can struggle when their roots remain excessively wet. If the soil stays saturated for extended periods, that could also contribute to the symptoms you're seeing. 2. Consider the root zone. Since you've recently moved into the home, it's difficult to know whether the tree has experienced previous root disturbance, soil compaction, or other stress. The nearby hardscaping may also contribute to increased heat around the tree. Maintain a layer of mulch. Approximately 2–3 inches of organic mulch extending toward the drip line can help moderate soil temperatures and retain moisture. Keep mulch several inches away from the trunk. 3. Avoid fertilizing for now. Fertilizer generally won't resolve environmental stress and could potentially make matters worse. Some resources about dogwoods: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/3010/3010-1484/3010-1484.pdf https://fairfaxgardening.org/dogwood/ As for your crape myrtle, the white powdery substance you're describing sounds like powdery mildew, a very common fungal disease on crape myrtles. Fortunately, powdery mildew is usually more of a cosmetic concern than a serious health threat to an established tree. A few things you can do to help: 1. Improve air circulation around the plant by selectively pruning crowded branches during the appropriate pruning season. 2. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizer, which encourages tender new growth that can be particularly susceptible. 3. Rake up and remove fallen leaves as part of your fall cleanup. 4. If the problem is recurring and severe, a fungicide labeled for powdery mildew on crape myrtles may be an option. These treatments are most effective when applied early in disease development rather than after leaves are heavily affected. Since we're approaching the end of the growing season, I wouldn't recommend treating the mildew now unless there are unusual circumstances. The tree will soon lose its leaves naturally. Resources for Crepe Myrtles: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/2901/2901-1040/2901-1040.pdf https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/430/430-451/SPES-387P.pdf
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Improving Yard conditions
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Date Posted: Mon, Jan 05 - 11:02 am
- How to thicken and greening a big yard with out reconstruction
- I apologize for the slow response to your question. I somehow did not receive the alert and just noticed the question when I was alerted to another question coming through. This is a question that needs more details for a specific response, however thickening and greening a large yard without major reconstruction is very possible, but the best approach depends on both site conditions and the end goal for the space. Before making changes, it helps to clarify whether the goal is a traditional turf lawn, a lower-maintenance landscape using native plants, or a mix of both. In general, improvements without reconstruction focus on soil health, plant selection, and management practices. Start with soil health (no digging required): Core aeration if the soil is compacted Top-dressing with compost to increase organic matter Soil testing to identify nutrient deficiencies or pH issues before fertilizing Next, match plants to both the site and the goal. If the goal is turf: Overseed with grass varieties suited to sun/shade, traffic, and moisture conditions. In Virginia, this often means tall fescue blends, fine fescues for shade, or warm-season grasses depending on location. If the goal is reduced turf: Transition difficult areas (deep shade, poor drainage, slopes, heavy traffic) to native groundcovers or mixed plantings. This can improve appearance and resilience without regrading or major removal And finally, adjust maintenance practices: Mow higher (3–4 inches for most cool-season grasses) Water deeply but infrequently Avoid over-fertilizing, which can lead to shallow roots and thinning turf Some information that would be needed to help give more specific recommendations would include sun exposure (full sun, part shade, deep shade), existing vegetation (grass type if known), size of the yard and problem areas, ultimate goal for the space (turf lawn, natives, or a combination), any recent soil test results. Feel free to follow up with us at rvamastergardeners@gmail.com. We also have some volunteers available for home consults and an in person conversation may be a great way to move forward! Thanks for reaching out to us and my apologies again for the delayed response!
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Hydrangea identification & tips
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Date Posted: Fri, Oct 31 - 10:02 am
- Any idea what kind of hydrangea this might be? It was in the garden when we moved in. Maybe the first year a couple of pinkish blooms but last year nothing In particular any suggestions for pruning would be appreciated
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners and for including the picture! From your description and photo, we think your hydrangea is most likely a Hydrangea macrophylla (French hydrangea). French hydrangeas are deciduous shrubs known for their rounded clusters of pink, blue, or purple flowers. And it sounds like your plant is still young, which can explain the limited blooming so far — these shrubs often take a few seasons to establish before flowering reliably. Here are a few tips about pruning to help improve your blooms: Hydrangea macrophylla blooms on old wood, meaning next year’s flowers form on stems that grew this year. Because of that, pruning at the wrong time can remove potential flower buds. Only prune right after the plant finishes blooming (early to mid-summer). Avoid pruning in fall, winter, or spring, as this will remove next season’s buds. When pruning, remove only dead, damaged, or very weak stems, and lightly shape the plant to improve airflow. Older, woody stems can be cut back at the base every few years to encourage new growth. A few other things to note about these hydrangeas: They prefer partial sun — ideally morning sunlight with afternoon shade. They like moist but well-drained soil rich in organic matter. You can add compost to improve texture and moisture retention. They should be kept evenly moist during dry periods, especially in hot weather. If your soil is naturally acidic, you may also notice the flower color shift toward blue; in more alkaline soil, blooms stay pink. We hope these tips will help you see more blooms in the years to come!
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Soil Testing
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 17 - 4:26 pm
- Can I bring a sample of my yard soil to the Extension office to be tested for heavy metals, etc.?
- This is a great question! Soil Test Kits are provided by the extension office and the Master Gardeners distribute them to the Richmond Public Libraries. We actually just got some in that we will be distributing this week! Each kit provides instructions for collecting and submitting the samples. Results are then emailed to you, typically within 3 working days of receipt. The routine test package includes soil pH,P,K,Ca,Mg,Zn,Mn,Cu,Fe,B, and estimated CEC, plus a fertilizer and lime recommendation. Testing for soluble salts and organic matter is also available. If you are looking for a way to test for the toxic heavy metals or metals related to pollution issues, send us an email at rvamastergardeners@gmail.com For this type of testing, Virginia Tech recommends connecting with your local extension agent. The City of Richmond has been without an extension agent for several years now, but we will try to get you connected to the appropriate people if this is the type of testing you are looking for.
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Composting - continued!
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Date Posted: Sun, Nov 12 - 5:36 pm
- I am very appreciative of the options you recommended for me to compost. I think I was not very clear in my question. I already know where to bring food scraps, and I already do bring food scraps for composting. My dilemma is where to bring dead plants. I have a tiny yard, and, therefore no space for a compost bin. Now that summer potted plants are dead, I need to know where to bring the large dead plants. Thanks
- I'm sorry my first answer did not give you the information you were looking for. I've reached out to a few others in our Master Gardener group but none of us have used a composting service specifically for large plants. I believe some of the suggestions I gave you may be able to take them, but the next steps would be to reach out them to ask. I did try to reach out to Richmond Grows Gardens, but have not yet heard back from them. I have previously spoken with some of the ladies that work at the Bird House Farmers Market and she shared that the compost company that picks up their bins can compost anything and everything organic. At the time, I didnt ask specifically about large plants, but here is the email address for the company if you would like to reach out and ask: info@nopeva.com I admire your determination for finding a good place to take these plants! I currently have a small pile in my back yard where they are breaking down, but it would be great to have other options available. Hope this information helps you get to what you are looking for!
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Stunted vegetable garden
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Date Posted: Sat, Aug 12 - 6:55 pm
- My vegetable garden has been stunted in its growth this summer and I’ve been trying to figure out what I can do differently. I think we may have some Red Thread in the yard.
- I think many local vegetable gardens have experienced some stunting this year. The prolonged cooler weather we had at the beginning of the summer seemed to have a big impact on plants that were put in the ground in late April and May. In addition, we have had several periods with very little rain to help keep gardens watered which has also been having an impact. Before planting next year, its a good idea to do a soil test to see where your soil could use some support. Soil tests are available through the master gardeners at your local library. You can use these results to ensure you are planting in a robust healthy soil that is ready to provide a good home to your plants. Also, if you aren't already doing this, I would suggest fertilizing your garden with an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizers slowly release nutrients giving a steady supply of food to your plants without disrupting the work of earthworms and other beneficial organisms. Follow the recommendations on the label for frequency of fertilizing. I'm not aware of nor have I been able to find any literature on red thread having an impact on anything other than turf grass. I'm not sure if you mentioned that in correlation with your concerns about your vegetable garden or as a separate concern. However, if you were looking for recommendations to deal with the red thread as well, fungicides are not usually advised for red thread control on residential turf for various reasons. The disease is largely cosmetic. Unless environmental conditions that promote disease development persist for extended periods, the turf will recover — usually with no lasting effects of infection. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Removing Kudzu
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 27 - 12:13 am
- What can be used to get rid of the Kudzu that has taken over the Camellia bush?
- The dreaded kudzu! For successful long-term control, the extensive root system must be destroyed. Any remaining root crowns can lead to reinfestation. Kudzu grows from seed and from root crowns. You can see these root crowns if you follow a vine to where it roots in the soil. Dig just a little around it and you will see several buds, new sprouts, or mature vines emerging from just at, or below, the soil surface. This is the root crown. To stop new kudzu vine growth, cut just below the root crown and remove it from the soil. Kudzu cannot regrow from below the root crown, and it does not sprout from any lateral roots. Sometimes vines, which can root, may be buried under a few inches of organic matter and leaf litter. This gives them the appearance of lateral roots, but they are not. Buried vines make control more difficult because they are hidden and may produce many new shoots. Use a shovel or pick axe to expose the base of the root crown. Then use a sharp hatchet, axe, or a small handsaw to cut the root below the root crown. A shovel or hoe is not adequate for the job as the roots are very fibrous or woody. Pruning shears may work for severing smaller root crowns, but will not work for large root crowns. It is also a good idea to plant native grasses in the fall after removal to control erosion and spread of kudzu and invasion of other weedy plants which may colonize the site after kudzu dies. Good luck!
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Starting an organic garden
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Date Posted: Tue, Mar 28 - 8:55 pm
- Hi, I am interested in growing my own vegetable and herb garden. Ive done it before but am not skilled on the ins and outs of organic gardening. I have researched classes in the area but am not really finding anything. Do you have good resources to help me? I have started growing seeds this year with quite a few hiccups so far, and am doing raised beds to attempt to keep the weeds at bay. I've got a lot to learn!
- Hello there, glad you'll be working on an organic garden. As with everything, it just takes practice. Starting plants from seed isn't as easy as one might think. After all, nature does it all the time. But you're not really working like nature when you start seeds inside. So you just have to mimic as best you can. Some folks that start seeds indoors will have a set up in a basement (or other free space) using an old table or two with shop lights above. The lights might be attached to the ceiling by chains and adjusted as the plants grow. And timers can provide the correct amount of light. Records should be kept so that you know which seed is which, the day it was planted, the maturity date, light and heat requirements, etc. So it can get complicated. But these days there are lots of varieties that are readily available as seedlings so you don't always have to do it yourself. That's a nice change. I usually recommend a book on permaculture--Gaia's Garden by Toby Hemenway. It may be more information than you want right now but if you could find it at the library the chapters on soils and building beds would probably be helpful. You'll want to test your soil first so you know where you stand. I highly recommend checking in with the library branch you like and seeing when a Master Gardener will be on duty at the help desk. They will have soil test kits and can explain the process and will be happy to answer any and all questions you may have. They love sharing information! if you go to the Main branch you may be able to pick up some free seed at the Seed Bank. Best of luck with your project. Happy gardening!
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Starting a new garden
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Date Posted: Sat, Mar 25 - 4:25 pm
- Hi! I live off of N 18th St. and my apartment building has a very large bed that has been empty for a while and that I would like to start growing in (herbs and vegetables). I plan to come pick up a soil kit to test the current soil in the bed. Is that a first step you'd recommend? After testing the soil, are there specific veggies and herbs you'd recommend for the climate/area we're in? Are there any recommended local places that I could get starters and/or transplants? I also have read that I'll likely need to turn the soil to loosen it up. Welcome suggestions. Thanks! - Marg
- Hello Marg, Nice to hear you're interested in growing food. My first question/concern is if you have cleared this project with the owners or property manager of the apartment you're living in. That would be the first item on the check list. After that, testing the soil is a necessary step. Then, depending on the results, you would add any needed amendments. You can never go wrong by adding compost to the bed. Compost is a good addition because it can lighten heavy soils and enrich sandy soils. As far as what to plant, that would really depend on what you want to plant. I would make a list of desired vegetables and herbs and then see what zone they are appropriate for. Your basic tomatoes, zucchini, basil and parsley will do fine here. The important thing is to check the zone and maturity dates for whatever you are planting. If you want to plant spinach or lettuce or similar greens be aware that they like cool temperatures so they'll need a head start. When it gets too hot they will "bolt" or go to seed and be done for the summer planting season. You can pull them and replace them with a heat-loving vegetable. They can also be planted again as a fall crop when the weather starts to cool a bit. You can find seedlings at most garden centers. I think that Lowe's, Home Depot and similar stores offer some organic seedlings. I would check about both types of stores to see if they offer what you want to plant. Please check out the Master Gardeners who man the help desks at your local library. Check in with the library to see what days and times the gardeners are available. They will give you a wealth of information and advice. Also, if you go to the Main Library there is a seed bank (in an old card catalog) near the indoor entrance. The availability of seeds waxes and wanes but it's worth a try! Good luck with your project. Happy gardening!
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Building soil
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Date Posted: Sun, Feb 26 - 5:45 pm
- We are making new raised beds for flowers and veggies. We are designing them with a wooden frame and then approaching the layers as a lasagne garden. My partner is thinking he can use only mushroom compost and cardboard to fill these beds but from what I read we need about 75% soil and 25% mushroom compost. Is this accurate for Richmond soils? Thanks for your insights on how to best lay the ground materials for thriving flower & veggie beds. Much appreciated, Jāna
- Hello Jana, My go-to resource for soil building is the permaculture guide--Gaia's Garden. The recommendation for building soil through compost is to use half green matter and half brown (to attain a good ratio of nitrogen to carbon). Green matter would be leaves, grass clippings, kitchen scraps (but also manure) and the brown would be dried leaves, hay (includes weeds), straw, pruning trimmings, and wood shavings or similar. The book discusses all issues such temperature of pile, size, turning, etc. The mushroom compost is great but I think the combination of materials will lead to a longer stretch of fertility in the beds. With different materials leaching their nutrients at different times. The beds will consume a lot of mulching material. One way to deal with this is to use any brush you may have collected and build hugelkultur beds. They are basically a mound of brush (tamped down), well watered and covered with organic materials, compost and soil. So you may want to use a combination of hugelkultur and organic matter with a good topping of mushroom compost. I recommend reading Gaia's Garden's chapter 4-Bringing the Soil to Life. The author's favorite method for doing so is sheet mulching (lasange gardening). Happy gardening!