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Planting plans for dwarf trees/shrubs
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Date Posted: Mon, Sep 14 - 12:51 am
- Hello, I hope your day is going well. I have a question pertaining to placing a dwarf tree/shrub close to the house. For the two dwarf trees/shrubs, listed below, how far from the house foundation should I place them? I am looking to place a Dwarf Globe Blue Spruce (Picea pungens 'Globosa') or a dwarf false cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Night Light' or 'Nana Lutea') in a bed that is against my house. These are both dwarf trees but also called shrubs/bushes based on their heights. I was reading about placing a tree the distance away from the house as it is tall. The mature height of these two dwarf tree/shrub is around 4-6ft after 10 years but if left unpruned for longer can be a few feet taller potentially, but I couldn't find a reliable source to back this claim. If I place them away from the house at the mature height after 10 years but do not account for however it may get after decades, would it mess up my house's foundation or do I need to not worry about it? Thank you so much for your time and help. Have a great day
- Thank you so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. This is a great question, and its very smart of you to be considering planting shrubs based on their mature size and not based on the size they are in the pot, as many people do. As with all things gardening, there are different perspectives that people have when considering this question, and some things will depend on your personal preference. Generally, we'd recommend shrubs to be planted at least 1/2 the diameter of the mature width away from the house plus 1 - 3 feet. So if a shrub has a mature 6' width, they should be planted at least 4' away from the house if not 5' or 6' away. The additional space leaves for a gap between the plant and house to allow airflow against the house and reduces the need for pruning. If you don't mind pruning, the shrubs can be planted closer to the house. If you would rather not prune that much, plant them farther away. It seems like you are already aware that "dwarf" varieties will happily grow beyond what their label lists as their maximum size, particularly after decades, as you mentioned. Because of this, you could also ere on planting a little farther from the house as opposed to closer. Its unlikely the roots from either plant will damage the house's foundation, even after decades. Ultimately, you should be safe planting at least 5' from the house for these two plants. Another thing to consider is how close these shrubs are planted to one another. You can use the same recommendation for determining distance from the house and space the shrubs 1/2 their mature spread plus 1' pending how intermingled you prefer the mature shrubs to be. For the two shrubs you are considering, you could think about spacing them at least 6 if not 7 feet apart. This way they can grow without pruning to a nice mature size and not bump into each other. If you prefer the look of a heavier prune, you could plant them closer together. Hope this is helpful! Best of luck to you!
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Prune or Transplant?
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Date Posted: Sat, Sep 12 - 1:12 am
- We have several shrubs that we planted about 3 years ago that have been thriving. I thought we had spaced everything well but they've really exploded in growth. They're all beautiful and seem healthy. We've let them get pretty wild but I am worried now that we're at the point of overcrowding. We have a Spice Girl Viburnum, a Sweet Talker Viburnum, and a Crimson Fire Loropetalum together and the Loropetalum is closest to our Flame Thrower Redbud tree. (In the pictures you'll also see Radiance Abelias but if possible, we don't want to move those as they are right along the border with our garden path). How do I decide if I just need some more intentional pruning or if it's time to move one of the plants? Which would you recommend moving? The Sweet Talker Viburnum is the one closest to the fence and there is some room to move it but is it feasible to try to shift it over if it's only a shift 6-18"? Would it be better to move the Lorapetalum? I appreciate your advice!
- Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your shrubs are very happy in their location, which is a great problem to have! After only three years, however, they may still have quite a bit of growing to do, so this is a good time to think about their mature sizes rather than just their current sizes. Some overlap between shrubs isn't necessarily a problem, particularly if you're going for a full, layered garden. The concern is when plants become crowded enough that they are competing for light and space, developing an uneven shape, rubbing against structures or neighboring plants, or requiring frequent pruning just to keep them within their allotted area. Virginia Cooperative Extension recommends spacing shrubs according to their mature size; overcrowding can eventually reduce flowering and air circulation and create competition for resources. I would start by looking up the expected mature width of each of your specific cultivars and measuring from the center of each plant to its neighbors. This will give you a better idea of whether you're dealing with vigorous young growth that can be managed with selective pruning or plants that ultimately don't have enough room. For your viburnums, I would wait until immediately after they finish blooming next spring to do any significant pruning. Spring-flowering shrubs generally form their flower buds on the previous year's growth, so pruning them now, over the winter, or early next spring would remove many of next year's flowers. When you do prune, I would favor selective thinning and removal of individual branches rather than shearing the outside of the shrub. The goal is to preserve the plant's natural shape rather than continually making it smaller. If your measurements show that the shrubs will still substantially overlap at maturity, I would consider transplanting rather than committing to increasingly heavy pruning every year. Fall, after deciduous plants enter dormancy, is a good time to move established shrubs in Virginia. I probably would not dig up an established viburnum simply to move it 6–18 inches. For a three-year-old shrub, that's quite a bit of root disturbance for relatively little additional growing room. If 6–18 inches truly resolves the mature-spacing issue, it can be done, but I would first see whether thoughtful pruning accomplishes what you need. Of the plants you mentioned, I would pay particular attention to the Crimson Fire loropetalum's relationship with the Flame Thrower redbud. The redbud will continue developing a much larger canopy and root system, so if the loropetalum is positioned where the two will increasingly interfere with one another, moving the loropetalum to a location where it has adequate room at maturity may provide a better long-term solution than repeatedly pruning it away from the tree. Since all of the plants currently look healthy, you don't necessarily need to make an immediate change. You could use this fall and winter to measure the bed and compare those measurements with the cultivars' mature sizes, then enjoy the viburnums' flowers next spring and make your pruning or transplanting decisions from there. Also, here's a great resource for pruning: https://ext.vt.edu/lawn-garden/pruning.html
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Native Plant Options for a Challenging Urban Site
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Date Posted: Wed, Sep 09 - 2:03 am
- I'm the Business Operations Coordinator for Tribeca Kitchen & Hospitality, opening soon next to Movieland on Arthur Ashe Blvd. Attached is an image of the sandy and rocky soil in front of the building. The owner would like to just place mulch over it, but I was wondering if there was a cost effective solution using plants (even better if they're natives) that would survive and thrive in these soil conditions.
- Thank you for reaching out, and congratulations on the upcoming opening! This could definitely be an opportunity to incorporate plants rather than covering the entire area with mulch. Looking at your photo, my first concern would actually be what is underneath the sandy/gravelly surface. This appears to be a heavily disturbed site, which is common around construction. There may be compacted subsoil, construction fill, or very little actual topsoil present. Before investing in plants, we would recommend digging a few test holes to see what is beneath the surface and submitting a soil sample through Virginia Cooperative Extension. A soil test can tell you the pH and nutrient levels, while digging into the site will give you a better idea of soil depth, compaction, and drainage. The good news is that you don't necessarily need to replace everything with rich topsoil. In fact, many Virginia native plants do well in relatively lean soils, and adding large amounts of compost or fertilizer isn't routinely recommended when the plants are appropriately matched to the site. The bigger issue may be loosening severe compaction and making sure there is enough soil for roots to establish. If this area receives six or more hours of sun and drains quickly, there are a number of Virginia natives worth considering for a tough, relatively low-maintenance planting. Some possibilities include: Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) – cheerful yellow flowers, adaptable to challenging sites, and valuable to pollinators. It can also reseed and help create a fuller, more naturalized planting over time. Threadleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata) – a favorite option for this site because it handles sun and relatively dry conditions well and provides a long period of bright yellow flowers. Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – another favorite for this type of location. This native grass performs well in dry, lean soils and adds height, movement, and great fall and winter interest. Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) – an excellent choice for sunny, dry, well-drained locations and an important host plant for monarch butterflies. Whorled milkweed (Asclepias verticillata) – tolerates relatively dry soil and provides additional value for pollinators. Purple lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis) – a native grass with airy purple-pink seed heads that can be particularly attractive when planted in groups. Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) – adaptable, drought tolerant once established, and useful for filling spaces between larger plants. Of these, black-eyed Susan, threadleaf coreopsis, and little bluestem would be some of my personal favorites for this location. Planted together in repeating groups, they could create a simple but attractive native planting with flowers through the growing season and the little bluestem providing structure and interest into fall and winter. Rather than planting individual specimens surrounded by large expanses of mulch, I would consider mass planting a limited number of species in repeating groups. This tends to look more intentional in a commercial landscape and, as the plants mature and fill in, can reduce the amount of exposed mulch while providing habitat and food for insects and birds. You could try spreading seed this fall to help keep the project cost effective. You could also try connecting with gardeners in the Virginia Native Plant Society Group or the RVA Gardening group on facebook to see if anyone has an abundance from their yard they would be willing to share. Good luck!!
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Pruning Willow Oak and planting Chicago Hardy Fig
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 02 - 7:00 pm
- Hello, We have a very large Willow Oak tree that we want to trim. Any recommendations for arborists that can trim these large trees without causing harm to the tree? We also have a Chicago Hardy fig tree, how far from the foundation should we plant it?
- Thank you so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. For your willow oak, we recommend hiring an ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) Certified Arborist with experience pruning large, mature shade trees. Proper pruning is important for maintaining the long-term health and structure of an established oak, and an experienced arborist can determine whether pruning is necessary and recommend the best approach. While we aren't able to give specific recommendations, you can search for certified arborists in your area using the ISA's "Find an Arborist" directory: https://www.treesaregood.org/findanarborist. Be sure to ask about their experience with mature oaks and request proof of certification and insurance. For your Chicago Hardy fig, we recommend planting it at least 10–15 feet from your home's foundation. Although figs generally have shallow, spreading root systems that are not considered aggressively invasive, they can become quite large, often reaching 15–30 feet tall and wide under favorable conditions. Allowing adequate space provides room for the canopy to develop, improves air circulation, makes harvesting easier, and helps avoid branches rubbing against the house. If you plan to keep the fig pruned as a smaller shrub, you may be able to plant it somewhat closer, but 10–15 feet is a good general guideline for long-term growth.
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"Suckering" trees
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Date Posted: Wed, Jun 10 - 1:26 am
- Hi - we have a couple of trees that look to have “suckers” of varying lengths (an example shown below). Would an arborist be able to assist with removing these growths safely and helping to minimize future growths?
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners, and for including a very helpful photo! The growth you’re seeing are called “suckers” or epicormic shoots. In your case, these are vigorous shoots coming from the lower trunk. While the leaf shape looks consistent with the rest of the tree, the green color (compared to the purple canopy above) suggests this growth may be coming from the rootstock rather than the grafted top. You are correct to want to remove these, as they can take energy away from the upper canopy and, over time, may outcompete the desired growth if left unmanaged. If you are comfortable with pruning, many homeowners find they can remove these themselves keeping a few things in mind. First, be sure to prune each shoot back as close to the trunk as possible (don’t leave stubs). Stubs will create more suckers. Always use clean, sharp pruners. It is best to remove the suckers while they are still relatively longer. For larger or very dense growth like you have, an arborist can certainly help, but it’s not strictly necessary if you’re comfortable pruning. To help reduce future suckering: 1. Continue removing shoots promptly when they appear 2. Avoid heavy pruning of the upper canopy, which can stimulate more growth 3. Keep the tree healthy with proper watering and mulch (but avoid piling mulch against the trunk) From what I can tell from your photo, this appears to be a purple-leaf redbud, which is often grafted onto a standard green-leaf redbud rootstock. The rootstock naturally produces green leaves and tends to grow more vigorously, which seems to be what you’re seeing here. More broadly, trees often produce suckers in response to stress or disruption. Common triggers include heavy pruning or canopy loss, damage to roots or trunk (from lawn equipment, construction, etc.), environmental stress, such as drought or poor soil conditions, planting issues (like being planted too deeply or having mulch piled against the trunk), and natural growth habit of certain species or rootstocks If these shoots continue to return aggressively, it may just be the nature of the rootstock, but it can also be worth checking for any underlying stress factors.
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Figs, mint, strawberries and cilantro
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Date Posted: Wed, May 06 - 2:08 am
- Hello, I purchased a small fig tree in a plant sale. However, I read after purchase that they can be really aggressive here in VA and choke other plants/roots extend so far that they can damage walls and foundation. I wanted to check if I should put it in a container or plant it as planned in an area that gets east and south Sun. If planted in the ground, how far should it be from structures? Is there an extra way to control its root growth ( pruning in the winter for example )? The same question for strawberries and herbs like sweat mint and cilantro. I read that they could spread and take over the garden and that a flower bed won’t keep them contained. Would they be better planted in a raised garden bed?
- It sounds like you had a great day at the plant sale and have several great questions! Starting with figs ... This is a really great resource about growing figs put out by the Virginia Cooperative Extension office and I believe it answers all of your questions: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/pubs_ext_vt_edu/en/SPES/spes-760.html If you are interested in doing a soil test before planting, there are typically soil tests available from the local libraries. Also, if you'd like to see some examples of mature figs, including one that was recently pruned, you can visit Humphrey Calder Community garden at the corner of Thompson and Patterson. The pruning was done by the city to ease maintenance around the tree and protect the fence. Strawberries and mint are both eager growers and like to spread and can be challenging to control when planted in the ground. Personally, I always plant mint in a large grow bag. It is very happy there, comes back year after year, and is well contained. Strawberries can also be grown in containers easily, or you could make a small raised bed for them. There is another example of this at Humphrey calder - you will find a bed near the center opening area that is mostly strawberries, but the gardener grows other things in the middle of the strawberries, like tomatoes. The Piedmont Master Gardeners have a great resource about growing strawberries: https://www.piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/strawberry-basics-for-the-home-garden/ Cilantro is not something I have ever had to worry about taking over. It is very temperature sensitive and bolts easily as the weather warms. The cilantro I've been growing this spring has already bolted (gone to flower and forming seeds). I would recommend finding a shady spot for your cilantro, and if planting in a pot helps you get it in a shady spot, then that work perfectly fine. This is a great resource for growing cilantro in Virginia: https://gardenclub.org/blog/cilantro-cool-season-culinary-herb Good luck with your new plants! Have fun!
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Tulips
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 30 - 2:28 pm
- I know tulips are difficult but what kinds are most likely to be perennial in Richmond? I read species, emperor and Darwin? Is that right? What about Darwin hybrid? Tks!
- Thanks so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! There are so many beautiful tulips in bloom around the city right now. I can definitely relate to wanting to plant some of your own! You’re on the right track with your research. In general, species tulips are the most likely to behave as perennials in our Richmond climate. Among hybrids, Fosteriana (Emperor) tulips and Darwin Hybrid tulips tend to perform best, although Darwin hybrids typically return for a few years rather than long-term. Usually, bulb packaging will list the tulip type and blooming details, which can be helpful when selecting varieties. Also keep in mind that water and soil needs may vary depending on whether you’re planting in the ground or in containers (containers tend to dry out more quickly). For best results, be sure to deadhead spent blooms so the plant doesn’t put energy into seed production, and allow the foliage to yellow and die back naturally so the bulbs can store energy for future blooms.
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Home Consult
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Date Posted: Thu, Mar 12 - 11:19 am
- I do not know where to start to grow a natural habitat/garden on my side yard. The space is about 4ft by 30ft. The strip is bordered by the driveway on one side and holly bushes on the other side. The area gets afternoon sun. We have unsuccessfully tried growing grass. then, we had the area prepared by a landscaper who cleared the plot and added a few ferns and flox. While it looked great initially, the plot was taken over by some kind of grass/weed that it impossible to get rid of. I have decided to make this a space with natural plantings. I see lots of resources online to refer to, but don't know where to start. Can you help? I live in Henrico County VA.
- Thank you so much for reaching out to the Master Gardeners! Master Gardener units are often able to help with home consults. Because this is the Richmond unit of Master Gardeners, are efforts are focused within the city limits. There is a very active unit of Master Gardeners in Henrico County that should be able to help you. You can find more information about them and their home consultations here: https://www.henricomg.org/homeowner-consultations/ Best of luck to you!!
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Arborvitae Decline
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Date Posted: Thu, Feb 26 - 12:58 pm
- We have 2 arborvitae bushes/trees in our front yard. in Goochland County. One has died; the other is dying. They are about 25 years old. Perhaps they have just lived out their lives; but if there is something else it might be helpful to know before we replace them. We are only planting native plants now, so that might help the situation. If you have any thoughts, I would love it. Thanks so much in advance for all that you do for our community.
- Thank you so much for reaching out — and for your commitment to planting natives! That makes such a positive difference for our local ecosystem. Arborvitae can live quite a long time, often 40–150 years depending on the species and growing conditions, so 25 years would not typically be considered old age. When we see one arborvitae turn completely brown and another beginning to decline, it usually points to an environmental or site-related issue rather than natural lifespan. Is this a change that you have just been seeing recently? My first thought goes to the winter weather that we have had - both with all of the ice that we had sticking around forever in January and more recently all of the rain saturating our soils. Arborvitae do not tolerate prolonged saturated soils very well. When soils stay waterlogged, roots are deprived of oxygen and can begin to decline or develop root rot. The extended ice cover would have kept soils cold and saturated longer, further stressing the root system and delaying recovery. Evergreen foliage continues to lose moisture in winter, so if roots are compromised, browning can occur fairly quickly. It's typically not one single environmental factor that can lead to decline but several factors in combination: Wet soil weakens roots, ice delays recovery, a sudden warm spell increases transpiration, the plant cannot move water efficiently. That combination can lead to rapid browning. Spider Mites are also a possibility for the damage but seem much less likely to me. When spider mites are present, the foliage typically turns brown or dusty prior to becoming completely brown and you tend to see gradual thinning, rather than sudden death. It's also a little early to be seeing spider mites, but you could try shaking a branch over a piece of white paper to see if you see anything mite-like coming off. Given the wet winter and prolonged ice we've experienced, root stress from saturated soils is the most likely cause of the decline, particularly if one plant has browned uniformly and rapidly without visible insect evidence. While spider mites (and bagworms) can affect arborvitae, their damage patterns and seasonal timing do not match up with your description. Unfortunately, the one arborvitae that is completely brown is unlikely to recover, as they do not regenerate from old wood. The second tree may continue to decline if root damage has occurred. If you are looking for native replacement options, a couple of suggestions to consider are Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana) and American Holly (Ilex opaca). Good luck! The arborvitae beautifully framed your porch and I know it must be disappointing to lose them!
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Planting under a Magnolia
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Date Posted: Wed, Jan 14 - 1:33 am
- I have a magnolia tree in the front yard and underneath it it's mostly dirt. I don't really want to plant grass there but I wondered if you might suggest something that I could plant under the tree so it's not so muddy. My grandchildren get very muddy after a rain. I took a picture so you can kind of see what it looks like. It has a little bit of morning Sun but mostly shady during the day. Thanks for your help. I
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners with this question! This is a very common situation under magnolias, so you’re not alone—and you’re smart to avoid trying to force grass there. Magnolia trees have shallow, wide-spreading roots and create dense shade, which makes it hard for turfgrass to survive. We are always gravitating towards native options anyways. A favorite of mine for a situation like this is a sedge. Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica) is one of the BEST grass-like alternatives for shade. It looks neat, stays low, and is much tougher than turfgrass. (https://vaplantatlas.org/index.php?do=plant&plant=1242&search=Search) Some other native ground cover options you could consider are: Green-and-gold (Chrysogonum virginianum) Semi-evergreen, spreads slowly, cheerful yellow flowers in spring https://vaplantatlas.org/index.php?do=plant&plant=1776&search=Search Wild ginger (Asarum canadense) Excellent for shade, soft leaves, great soil cover https://vaplantatlas.org/index.php?do=plant&plant=2009&search=Search https://vnps.org/wildflowers-of-the-year-2/2010-wild-ginger-asarum-canadense/ Creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera) Handles partial shade, beautiful spring blooms https://vaplantatlas.org/index.php?do=plant&plant=3156 A couple important things to keep in mind before planting anything under a magnolia: Avoid digging deeply (to protect roots) and do not pile soil or mulch against the trunk. You could consider covering some of the space with mulch - just be sure not to pile it against the trunk! Good luck!!