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Declining Rose Bushes
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 20 - 12:18 am
- We have a row of drift roses out from for the last 8 years, last year once bush died totally after pruning and was replaced but two others appear to have dying branches in places but are blooming in others. Do you have any recommendations? They previously were huge and bloomed all summer.
- Thank you for reaching out about your drift roses. After 8 years, itâs not uncommon to see some decline in vigor, and the symptoms youâre describing (a bush dying after pruning, and others showing partial dieback while still blooming) may have several contributing factors. Possible Causes Age & Natural Decline: Drift roses, while hardy, often start to lose vigor after 7â10 years. Decline in individual plants can be expected over time. Pruning Stress: If roses are pruned too severely or at the wrong time (late fall/early winter), it can stress the plant and increase vulnerability to dieback. Canker or Dieback Disease: Fungal cankers can cause branches to brown and die back while other parts of the shrub continue to bloom. Look for discolored, sunken, or shriveled stems. Root Stress: After many years in the same spot, soil compaction, poor drainage, or root competition from nearby shrubs can weaken roses. Environmental Stress: Last winterâs cold snaps, summer drought, or inconsistent watering can also contribute. Recommendations Inspect the Canes: Cut into affected stems. If the wood inside is brown rather than green/white, prune those branches back to healthy tissue. Sterilize pruners between cuts (70% alcohol or 10% bleach solution). Monitor for Pests/Disease: Check for signs of fungal cankers, crown gall, or borers. Mulch & Soil Health: Refresh mulch to 2â3 inches (but keep away from the crown). Consider lightly amending with compost to improve soil structure and nutrients. Watering Practices: Provide consistent deep watering during dry spells, especially since stressed plants are more susceptible to disease. Rejuvenation Option: If more bushes continue declining, you may want to replace them gradually. Consider rotating in disease-resistant shrub roses or other flowering shrubs to diversify and reduce the chance of future loss. Since one plant has already died and others are showing decline, you may be at the natural replacement stage for part of the row. Healthy roses can last many years, but staggered replacement every few years can keep the planting full and vibrant.
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Why is my swamp milkweed dying?
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Date Posted: Thu, Aug 14 - 11:54 pm
- I have an established butterfly bush and swamp milkweed plant in my yard. Theyâre both around 3ft tall. This year, both plants began dying fast. We havenât dumped anything there, nothing changed as far as plants, soil, drainage, etc. with one exception. Three years ago we planted some Blue Mistflower. It never came up until this year. It is climbing the dead butterfly bush. Iâve read Blue Mistflower spreads via rhizomes and that this could potentially be the cause. Any thoughts? Other things I should check? Thanks!
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! I've connected with one of our gardeners, Pam, that has a wealth of knowledge on native plants to help give you some guidance. There has been a lot of chatter in the Virginia Native Plant Society Facebook group that this has been a banner year for milkweed aphids. Swamp milkweed seems particularly susceptible to this aphid, and you truly have âaâ plant (singular), it becomes the sole target for the aphids. The aphids submit a dew that causes a fungus. Unfortunately, the picture doesnât show the milkweed clearly enough for this to be more than a guess, but we think itâs a reasonable possibility. We wouldnât blame the blue mist flower. Yes, itâs hardy and loves to spread, but itâs a valuable late-season food source for pollinators. We recommend planting a different companion for it. You did not mention you soil or light conditions, but the Plant RVA Natives guide (download free at vnps.org) will help identify companion plants that can hold their own with an enthusiastic spreader. Pycnanthemum muticum, clustered mountain mint, might be a possibility, and it blooms much earlier, spreading the glory. Since butterfly bush is designated invasive in Virginia, we canât ethically recommend trying to save it or replacing it with another. But its loss provides an opportunity to plant more natives. If you have additional questions about natives, Pam will be at the West End Branch of the Richmond Public Library on Wednesday afternoons after Labor Day. You are welcome to stop in and chat with her more!
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Transplanting a peach tree
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Date Posted: Thu, Aug 14 - 5:34 pm
- I need to transplant this peach tree but know next to nothing about when/how/where. Would love advice!
- Thank you for reaching out! Peach trees can grow successfully in the Richmond area when given the right conditions and care. Since your tree is currently in a pot, here are some steps and tips to guide you through transplanting it into the ground: Best Time to Transplant Late fall to early spring (after leaf drop but before buds swell) is ideal. In Richmond, thatâs typically November through March when the tree is dormant. This reduces stress and gives roots time to establish before summer heat. Choosing a Planting Site: Sunlight: Choose a location with full sun â at least 6â8 hours daily. Soil: Well-drained, loamy soil with a pH of 6.0â6.5 is best. Avoid low areas where water collects. Soil test kits can be found at local Richmond Public Libraries Air Circulation: Good airflow helps reduce fungal diseases. How to Transplant: Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Loosen the surrounding soil to encourage root spread. Gently slide the tree out of the pot, loosening any tightly wound roots. Trim circling roots to prevent girdling. Place the tree so the root flare (where roots meet trunk) is level with or slightly above ground level. Fill with native soil (you can mix in some compost if soil quality is poor). Water deeply to remove air pockets. Apply 2â4 inches of mulch around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. This helps conserve moisture and regulate temperature. After planting: Water deeply once a week during the first growing season, more often in hot/dry spells. Lightly prune in late winter to shape and remove damaged branches. Young peach trees can be susceptible to deer, rabbits, and voles, so consider fencing or trunk guards. Good luck with your peach tree!! We wish you lots of success! Thanks again for reaching out.
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Garden Support at The Doorways
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 06 - 2:48 pm
- I am the Volunteer and Outreach Manager for The Doorways, a nonprofit in Richmond that provides lodging for patients and their family members while they receive medical care nearby. We have a lovely garden area that needs some pruning/mulching and new plants for fall. I'm wondering how to connect with volunteer Master Gardner's to see if there's interest. Thank you!
- Thank you so much for reaching out â The Doorways provides such an important service to the Richmond community, and your garden sounds like a lovely and meaningful space for your guests. As Master Gardeners, our primary mission is education. Our volunteer efforts are focused on teaching and sharing best practices related to horticulture and sustainable gardening. While we arenât a labor-based group, weâd be happy to support your efforts in an educational capacity. If you're interested in learning more about what types of plants could thrive in your garden or how to plan for fall planting, we can connect with our volunteers to see if we have someone available for a consultation. For hands-on help with pruning, mulching, or planting, we would recommend reaching out to a local garden club or professional landscaping service who may be better equipped for that type of volunteer or contracted work. Please e-mail us if you are interested in a planting consultation: rvamastergardeners@gmail.com
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Speaker Request
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 24 - 7:23 pm
- Hello. My alumnae organization is looking for a speaker for a zoom or possibly in-person meeting Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 7:00. We were thinking the topic could be planting native species but are open to suggestions. Thanks in advance for your response.
- Hello! Thank you so much for thinking of the Richmond Master Gardeners for this opportunity. We always enjoy getting the chance to share information about planting native! I'll follow up with an email to you to get a little more information and see what we can coordinate.
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Planting Natives in Yard
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 22 - 10:05 am
- Hello! I moved into a new home in the past year and my yard is pretty much a blank slate. I love a flower-filled garden, but my yard is almost entirely shade due to an extraordinary, 100+ year old Tulip Poplar. Do you have any suggestions for flowers or colorful plants that would thrive in my shady yard? I am interested in keeping my yard native. Thank you!
- Hello Bethany! How exciting to have a yard that is a blank slate to fill with native plants! One resource I will share with you is https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives This guide gives you a wealth of information about native plants and landscaping. I'll also reach out to you via e-mail to see if we can connect with you more to provide more specific recommendations.
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Preparing new garden beds for planting
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 15 - 10:50 pm
- I need to landscape front garden beds. whatâs best to place on top of area for two months. Are tarps weighed down w/bricks okay? Arborist chips clean? Iâm old so I want something easy/low maintenance. Planning on native perennials and grasses, a few shrubs/service berry.
- Thank you for your question! It sounds like you're off to a great start with a thoughtful plan for a low-maintenance, native landscape. Both of the options you suggested are great ideas for prepping your beds for planting. 1. Tarps: Yes, tarps weighed down with bricks or secured with lawn staples can work well to smother weeds and prevent new growth before planting. This method is known as "occultation." Itâs easy, effective, and doesn't require much labor. Just make sure the tarp is opaque and tightly secured to prevent wind from getting underneath. I have personally had success with using black plastic and lawn staples, and am able to re-use the black plastic when I'm ready to expand the garden. 2. Arborist Wood Chips: Fresh arborist chips are also a great option, especially for a native planting. They help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and gradually improve soil as they break down. Itâs fine to apply them now even if theyâre âgreenâ (fresh)âjust keep them 3â6 inches deep and avoid piling them right against any existing stems or trunks. You can combine both methods too: tarp the area now, then remove the tarp and add arborist chips once youâre ready to plant. Native perennials, grasses, and a few shrubs like serviceberry are perfect choices for a low-maintenance, pollinator-friendly garden. Once established, they should need minimal watering and upkeep. Happy gardening!
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Crimson Queen Japanese Maple
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Date Posted: Mon, May 05 - 1:44 am
- Hello, I recently purchased a Crimson Queen Japanese Maple (https://tinyurl.com/5hfc8k8p) and am considering planting it in my backyard, which gets a good balance of both sunlight and shade throughout the day. The location I'm considering is a minimum distance of 5' 8.5" from the patio retaining wall and a maximum distance of 8' 4" from the corner of the house where the foundation begins. I'm wondering if this distance is far enough away from the patio and the house. I've read quite a few different recommendations online, ranging between 3 and 10 feet, and it has me wondering if my distances are safe enough to prevent any damage to the patio and/or the house once the tree becomes more mature. I've attached a picture that shows the tree's distance from the patio and the house corner I mentioned earlier. If you could provide any other general info about tree planting specific to Japanese Maples, I'd really appreciate it, as this is the first one I've ever planted. Thanks for your help!
- Thank you for your question about planting your Japanese Maple! And thank you for your patience while we connected with our team to get a good answer for you. In general, our master gardeners typically recommend planting any tree at least 12 feet away from the house. Japanese Maples tend to grow their most attractive, rounded shape when they receive balanced sunlight from all sides. If one side is shaded, the tree can develop unevenly over time, with less foliage and an asymmetrical form. One of our gardeners has a tree that this has happened to âit receives more sunlight on one side, so it has a slightly lopsided look compared to the beautiful full shape seen in the photo you shared. We hope this helps as you make decisions about where you will plant your tree and that you will enjoy it for many many years to come!
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Converting Lawn to natives
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 26 - 9:39 pm
- I saw in some other responses that the Master Gardener applications started last September and have since closed. Could I be added to the list to receive information when it becomes available again?! I was also curious if y'all had any suggestions for building a grass yard with native grasses and fewer 'weeds.' Would poverty grass be an option? I rent currently, but I don't want that to stop us from building a home that supports native biodiversity!! Thank you so much! :)
- Thanks so much for reaching outâand big kudos to you for wanting to support native biodiversity, even as a renter. Creating a lawn or greenspace with native grasses is a fantastic way to help pollinators, improve soil health, and reduce maintenance and chemical inputs. You're right to consider poverty oatgrass (Danthonia spicata)âitâs a great native grass for our region! Itâs clump-forming, drought-tolerant, and performs well in poor soils, which makes it an excellent choice for naturalized lawn areas. However, it doesnât behave quite like traditional turfâit grows in tufts, so you may want to pair it with other species for fuller coverage. While none of these will act quite like turf grass, here are a couple of others you could consider: Virginia Wildrye (Elymus virginicus) â Grows well in part shade and moist soils. Tolerates mowing, though itâs bunch-forming. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) â Gorgeous color and structure, though not turf-like. Best for meadows and border plantings. I love mixing this one into flower beds for beautiful color pops! Purpletop (Tridens flavus) â Soft and airy with a lovely purple seed head; adds diversity and texture. River Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) â A beautiful grass for partly shaded areas, but it can spread aggressively. Personally, I love growing this grass in pots and listening to the oats rustle in the wind! (That being said, another great way to add more natives, especially as a renter is to grow them in pots!) This one will be much stalkier than normal turf grass. For a lawn substitute, you could also consider Carex species (native sedges), which resemble turf when mowed and tolerate partial shade: carex crinita and carex vulpinoidea are a couple that typically do well in our area. Hope this helps get you on the path you are looking to be on! And I'll send you an email to follow up about being on the list for information about our next class!
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Winter-Damaged Shrub: Signs of Life or Time to Replace?
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 12 - 12:48 pm
- Can I get some assistance regarding a shrub that died during the winter. It has turned completely yellow. Referred to you by Krissie Vandenburg
- Thanks for reaching out to the Master Gardener Help Desk. Weâre sorry to hear about your shrubâit can be frustrating to lose a plant, especially after a tough winter. A shrub turning completely yellow could be a sign of several things, including: Winter injury (cold damage to roots or stems), Poor drainage or root rot, Nutrient deficiency or stress from transplanting, Natural leaf drop on an evergreen that might still recover To better assist you, could you let us know: What type of shrub it is (if known)? When it was planted? Whether itâs evergreen or deciduous? And if possible, could you send us a clear photo of the entire plant, as well as a close-up of the leaves and stems? In the meantime, you can check for life by gently scratching a small section of bark with your fingernailâif itâs green underneath, there may still be hope. Also, look at the base of the plant and stems for any signs of new growth. Weâd be happy to help you troubleshoot and determine whether the shrub might recover or if it's time to replace it. Send us an email at RVAmastergardeners@gmail.com with answers to the above questions and we'll do our best to provide more guidance!