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Pruning Willow Oak and planting Chicago Hardy Fig
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 02 - 7:00 pm
- Hello, We have a very large Willow Oak tree that we want to trim. Any recommendations for arborists that can trim these large trees without causing harm to the tree? We also have a Chicago Hardy fig tree, how far from the foundation should we plant it?
- Thank you so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. For your willow oak, we recommend hiring an ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) Certified Arborist with experience pruning large, mature shade trees. Proper pruning is important for maintaining the long-term health and structure of an established oak, and an experienced arborist can determine whether pruning is necessary and recommend the best approach. While we aren't able to give specific recommendations, you can search for certified arborists in your area using the ISA's "Find an Arborist" directory: https://www.treesaregood.org/findanarborist. Be sure to ask about their experience with mature oaks and request proof of certification and insurance. For your Chicago Hardy fig, we recommend planting it at least 10–15 feet from your home's foundation. Although figs generally have shallow, spreading root systems that are not considered aggressively invasive, they can become quite large, often reaching 15–30 feet tall and wide under favorable conditions. Allowing adequate space provides room for the canopy to develop, improves air circulation, makes harvesting easier, and helps avoid branches rubbing against the house. If you plan to keep the fig pruned as a smaller shrub, you may be able to plant it somewhat closer, but 10–15 feet is a good general guideline for long-term growth.
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"Suckering" trees
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Date Posted: Wed, Jun 10 - 1:26 am
- Hi - we have a couple of trees that look to have “suckers” of varying lengths (an example shown below). Would an arborist be able to assist with removing these growths safely and helping to minimize future growths?
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners, and for including a very helpful photo! The growth you’re seeing are called “suckers” or epicormic shoots. In your case, these are vigorous shoots coming from the lower trunk. While the leaf shape looks consistent with the rest of the tree, the green color (compared to the purple canopy above) suggests this growth may be coming from the rootstock rather than the grafted top. You are correct to want to remove these, as they can take energy away from the upper canopy and, over time, may outcompete the desired growth if left unmanaged. If you are comfortable with pruning, many homeowners find they can remove these themselves keeping a few things in mind. First, be sure to prune each shoot back as close to the trunk as possible (don’t leave stubs). Stubs will create more suckers. Always use clean, sharp pruners. It is best to remove the suckers while they are still relatively longer. For larger or very dense growth like you have, an arborist can certainly help, but it’s not strictly necessary if you’re comfortable pruning. To help reduce future suckering: 1. Continue removing shoots promptly when they appear 2. Avoid heavy pruning of the upper canopy, which can stimulate more growth 3. Keep the tree healthy with proper watering and mulch (but avoid piling mulch against the trunk) From what I can tell from your photo, this appears to be a purple-leaf redbud, which is often grafted onto a standard green-leaf redbud rootstock. The rootstock naturally produces green leaves and tends to grow more vigorously, which seems to be what you’re seeing here. More broadly, trees often produce suckers in response to stress or disruption. Common triggers include heavy pruning or canopy loss, damage to roots or trunk (from lawn equipment, construction, etc.), environmental stress, such as drought or poor soil conditions, planting issues (like being planted too deeply or having mulch piled against the trunk), and natural growth habit of certain species or rootstocks If these shoots continue to return aggressively, it may just be the nature of the rootstock, but it can also be worth checking for any underlying stress factors.
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Figs, mint, strawberries and cilantro
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Date Posted: Wed, May 06 - 2:08 am
- Hello, I purchased a small fig tree in a plant sale. However, I read after purchase that they can be really aggressive here in VA and choke other plants/roots extend so far that they can damage walls and foundation. I wanted to check if I should put it in a container or plant it as planned in an area that gets east and south Sun. If planted in the ground, how far should it be from structures? Is there an extra way to control its root growth ( pruning in the winter for example )? The same question for strawberries and herbs like sweat mint and cilantro. I read that they could spread and take over the garden and that a flower bed won’t keep them contained. Would they be better planted in a raised garden bed?
- It sounds like you had a great day at the plant sale and have several great questions! Starting with figs ... This is a really great resource about growing figs put out by the Virginia Cooperative Extension office and I believe it answers all of your questions: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/pubs_ext_vt_edu/en/SPES/spes-760.html If you are interested in doing a soil test before planting, there are typically soil tests available from the local libraries. Also, if you'd like to see some examples of mature figs, including one that was recently pruned, you can visit Humphrey Calder Community garden at the corner of Thompson and Patterson. The pruning was done by the city to ease maintenance around the tree and protect the fence. Strawberries and mint are both eager growers and like to spread and can be challenging to control when planted in the ground. Personally, I always plant mint in a large grow bag. It is very happy there, comes back year after year, and is well contained. Strawberries can also be grown in containers easily, or you could make a small raised bed for them. There is another example of this at Humphrey calder - you will find a bed near the center opening area that is mostly strawberries, but the gardener grows other things in the middle of the strawberries, like tomatoes. The Piedmont Master Gardeners have a great resource about growing strawberries: https://www.piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/strawberry-basics-for-the-home-garden/ Cilantro is not something I have ever had to worry about taking over. It is very temperature sensitive and bolts easily as the weather warms. The cilantro I've been growing this spring has already bolted (gone to flower and forming seeds). I would recommend finding a shady spot for your cilantro, and if planting in a pot helps you get it in a shady spot, then that work perfectly fine. This is a great resource for growing cilantro in Virginia: https://gardenclub.org/blog/cilantro-cool-season-culinary-herb Good luck with your new plants! Have fun!
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Tulips
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 30 - 2:28 pm
- I know tulips are difficult but what kinds are most likely to be perennial in Richmond? I read species, emperor and Darwin? Is that right? What about Darwin hybrid? Tks!
- Thanks so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! There are so many beautiful tulips in bloom around the city right now. I can definitely relate to wanting to plant some of your own! You’re on the right track with your research. In general, species tulips are the most likely to behave as perennials in our Richmond climate. Among hybrids, Fosteriana (Emperor) tulips and Darwin Hybrid tulips tend to perform best, although Darwin hybrids typically return for a few years rather than long-term. Usually, bulb packaging will list the tulip type and blooming details, which can be helpful when selecting varieties. Also keep in mind that water and soil needs may vary depending on whether you’re planting in the ground or in containers (containers tend to dry out more quickly). For best results, be sure to deadhead spent blooms so the plant doesn’t put energy into seed production, and allow the foliage to yellow and die back naturally so the bulbs can store energy for future blooms.
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Home Consult
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Date Posted: Thu, Mar 12 - 11:19 am
- I do not know where to start to grow a natural habitat/garden on my side yard. The space is about 4ft by 30ft. The strip is bordered by the driveway on one side and holly bushes on the other side. The area gets afternoon sun. We have unsuccessfully tried growing grass. then, we had the area prepared by a landscaper who cleared the plot and added a few ferns and flox. While it looked great initially, the plot was taken over by some kind of grass/weed that it impossible to get rid of. I have decided to make this a space with natural plantings. I see lots of resources online to refer to, but don't know where to start. Can you help? I live in Henrico County VA.
- Thank you so much for reaching out to the Master Gardeners! Master Gardener units are often able to help with home consults. Because this is the Richmond unit of Master Gardeners, are efforts are focused within the city limits. There is a very active unit of Master Gardeners in Henrico County that should be able to help you. You can find more information about them and their home consultations here: https://www.henricomg.org/homeowner-consultations/ Best of luck to you!!
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Arborvitae Decline
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Date Posted: Thu, Feb 26 - 12:58 pm
- We have 2 arborvitae bushes/trees in our front yard. in Goochland County. One has died; the other is dying. They are about 25 years old. Perhaps they have just lived out their lives; but if there is something else it might be helpful to know before we replace them. We are only planting native plants now, so that might help the situation. If you have any thoughts, I would love it. Thanks so much in advance for all that you do for our community.
- Thank you so much for reaching out — and for your commitment to planting natives! That makes such a positive difference for our local ecosystem. Arborvitae can live quite a long time, often 40–150 years depending on the species and growing conditions, so 25 years would not typically be considered old age. When we see one arborvitae turn completely brown and another beginning to decline, it usually points to an environmental or site-related issue rather than natural lifespan. Is this a change that you have just been seeing recently? My first thought goes to the winter weather that we have had - both with all of the ice that we had sticking around forever in January and more recently all of the rain saturating our soils. Arborvitae do not tolerate prolonged saturated soils very well. When soils stay waterlogged, roots are deprived of oxygen and can begin to decline or develop root rot. The extended ice cover would have kept soils cold and saturated longer, further stressing the root system and delaying recovery. Evergreen foliage continues to lose moisture in winter, so if roots are compromised, browning can occur fairly quickly. It's typically not one single environmental factor that can lead to decline but several factors in combination: Wet soil weakens roots, ice delays recovery, a sudden warm spell increases transpiration, the plant cannot move water efficiently. That combination can lead to rapid browning. Spider Mites are also a possibility for the damage but seem much less likely to me. When spider mites are present, the foliage typically turns brown or dusty prior to becoming completely brown and you tend to see gradual thinning, rather than sudden death. It's also a little early to be seeing spider mites, but you could try shaking a branch over a piece of white paper to see if you see anything mite-like coming off. Given the wet winter and prolonged ice we've experienced, root stress from saturated soils is the most likely cause of the decline, particularly if one plant has browned uniformly and rapidly without visible insect evidence. While spider mites (and bagworms) can affect arborvitae, their damage patterns and seasonal timing do not match up with your description. Unfortunately, the one arborvitae that is completely brown is unlikely to recover, as they do not regenerate from old wood. The second tree may continue to decline if root damage has occurred. If you are looking for native replacement options, a couple of suggestions to consider are Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana) and American Holly (Ilex opaca). Good luck! The arborvitae beautifully framed your porch and I know it must be disappointing to lose them!
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Planting under a Magnolia
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Date Posted: Wed, Jan 14 - 1:33 am
- I have a magnolia tree in the front yard and underneath it it's mostly dirt. I don't really want to plant grass there but I wondered if you might suggest something that I could plant under the tree so it's not so muddy. My grandchildren get very muddy after a rain. I took a picture so you can kind of see what it looks like. It has a little bit of morning Sun but mostly shady during the day. Thanks for your help. I
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners with this question! This is a very common situation under magnolias, so you’re not alone—and you’re smart to avoid trying to force grass there. Magnolia trees have shallow, wide-spreading roots and create dense shade, which makes it hard for turfgrass to survive. We are always gravitating towards native options anyways. A favorite of mine for a situation like this is a sedge. Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica) is one of the BEST grass-like alternatives for shade. It looks neat, stays low, and is much tougher than turfgrass. (https://vaplantatlas.org/index.php?do=plant&plant=1242&search=Search) Some other native ground cover options you could consider are: Green-and-gold (Chrysogonum virginianum) Semi-evergreen, spreads slowly, cheerful yellow flowers in spring https://vaplantatlas.org/index.php?do=plant&plant=1776&search=Search Wild ginger (Asarum canadense) Excellent for shade, soft leaves, great soil cover https://vaplantatlas.org/index.php?do=plant&plant=2009&search=Search https://vnps.org/wildflowers-of-the-year-2/2010-wild-ginger-asarum-canadense/ Creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera) Handles partial shade, beautiful spring blooms https://vaplantatlas.org/index.php?do=plant&plant=3156 A couple important things to keep in mind before planting anything under a magnolia: Avoid digging deeply (to protect roots) and do not pile soil or mulch against the trunk. You could consider covering some of the space with mulch - just be sure not to pile it against the trunk! Good luck!!
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Starting vegetable seeds indoors
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Date Posted: Mon, Jan 05 - 11:06 am
- When should I start my indoor vegetable seedlings?
- For gardeners in Richmond, Virginia, the average last frost date is around April 10–20. Indoor vegetable seedlings are typically started 4–10 weeks before that date, depending on the crop. Here are some general indoor seed-starting timelines for Richmond: Start 8–10 weeks before last frost (early–mid February): Tomatoes Peppers Eggplant Start 6–8 weeks before last frost (late February–early March): Broccoli Cabbage Cauliflower Lettuce Start 4–6 weeks before last frost (mid–late March): Cucumbers Squash Melons (often better direct-seeded unless you have a short season) Best direct-seeded outdoors (after frost): Beans Peas Corn Carrots Radishes Helpful reminders: Starting too early often leads to tall, weak seedlings that are harder to transplant. Strong light is essential—most seedlings need supplemental grow lights. Seed packets provide excellent crop-specific guidance and should always be followed. Harden seedlings off gradually before planting outdoors. It's fun to start planning what you will grow this year! Good luck!
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Improving Yard conditions
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Date Posted: Mon, Jan 05 - 11:02 am
- How to thicken and greening a big yard with out reconstruction
- I apologize for the slow response to your question. I somehow did not receive the alert and just noticed the question when I was alerted to another question coming through. This is a question that needs more details for a specific response, however thickening and greening a large yard without major reconstruction is very possible, but the best approach depends on both site conditions and the end goal for the space. Before making changes, it helps to clarify whether the goal is a traditional turf lawn, a lower-maintenance landscape using native plants, or a mix of both. In general, improvements without reconstruction focus on soil health, plant selection, and management practices. Start with soil health (no digging required): Core aeration if the soil is compacted Top-dressing with compost to increase organic matter Soil testing to identify nutrient deficiencies or pH issues before fertilizing Next, match plants to both the site and the goal. If the goal is turf: Overseed with grass varieties suited to sun/shade, traffic, and moisture conditions. In Virginia, this often means tall fescue blends, fine fescues for shade, or warm-season grasses depending on location. If the goal is reduced turf: Transition difficult areas (deep shade, poor drainage, slopes, heavy traffic) to native groundcovers or mixed plantings. This can improve appearance and resilience without regrading or major removal And finally, adjust maintenance practices: Mow higher (3–4 inches for most cool-season grasses) Water deeply but infrequently Avoid over-fertilizing, which can lead to shallow roots and thinning turf Some information that would be needed to help give more specific recommendations would include sun exposure (full sun, part shade, deep shade), existing vegetation (grass type if known), size of the yard and problem areas, ultimate goal for the space (turf lawn, natives, or a combination), any recent soil test results. Feel free to follow up with us at rvamastergardeners@gmail.com. We also have some volunteers available for home consults and an in person conversation may be a great way to move forward! Thanks for reaching out to us and my apologies again for the delayed response!
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Master Gardener help in RPS
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Date Posted: Thu, Oct 02 - 12:26 pm
- Hi, I'm looking for a master gardener able to volunteer between an hour to several hours to help Chimborazo Elementary School with its landscaping plan. Our PTA is currently engaged in a major clean-up of this Title I school and in fact just two weeks ago, 30 volunteers spent 5-6 hours cleaning, weeding and mulching just about an acre. There's so much more to do and once we're out of the clean-up phase, we will begin work on 1-, 3-, and 5-year plans to make this wonderful school and its neglected gardens shine. In the near-term, I am heading up the efforts to create these plans. I could use a master gardener to walk the grounds with me to identify a handful of plants I can't, discuss options for low-maintenance plantings, and other considerations we should be sure to keep in mind. We could also use someone to help us develop these plans but even one hour of volunteer time would be wonderful for us. Thank you so much for considering this request or connecting us with other master gardeners whom this might interest. We want to create a beautiful, thoughtful and interesting place for all of the children who attend this school.
- Hello! Thank you so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. This request is RIGHT up our ally! We have a meeting this coming Monday - I will get this request to the rest of our group and work to get you connected with a Master Gardener that has the availability to help with this project. I will be in touch via e-mail next week. Thank you!