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Native Plant Options for a Challenging Urban Site
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Date Posted: Wed, Sep 09 - 2:03 am
- I'm the Business Operations Coordinator for Tribeca Kitchen & Hospitality, opening soon next to Movieland on Arthur Ashe Blvd. Attached is an image of the sandy and rocky soil in front of the building. The owner would like to just place mulch over it, but I was wondering if there was a cost effective solution using plants (even better if they're natives) that would survive and thrive in these soil conditions.
- Thank you for reaching out, and congratulations on the upcoming opening! This could definitely be an opportunity to incorporate plants rather than covering the entire area with mulch. Looking at your photo, my first concern would actually be what is underneath the sandy/gravelly surface. This appears to be a heavily disturbed site, which is common around construction. There may be compacted subsoil, construction fill, or very little actual topsoil present. Before investing in plants, we would recommend digging a few test holes to see what is beneath the surface and submitting a soil sample through Virginia Cooperative Extension. A soil test can tell you the pH and nutrient levels, while digging into the site will give you a better idea of soil depth, compaction, and drainage. The good news is that you don't necessarily need to replace everything with rich topsoil. In fact, many Virginia native plants do well in relatively lean soils, and adding large amounts of compost or fertilizer isn't routinely recommended when the plants are appropriately matched to the site. The bigger issue may be loosening severe compaction and making sure there is enough soil for roots to establish. If this area receives six or more hours of sun and drains quickly, there are a number of Virginia natives worth considering for a tough, relatively low-maintenance planting. Some possibilities include: Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) – cheerful yellow flowers, adaptable to challenging sites, and valuable to pollinators. It can also reseed and help create a fuller, more naturalized planting over time. Threadleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata) – a favorite option for this site because it handles sun and relatively dry conditions well and provides a long period of bright yellow flowers. Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – another favorite for this type of location. This native grass performs well in dry, lean soils and adds height, movement, and great fall and winter interest. Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) – an excellent choice for sunny, dry, well-drained locations and an important host plant for monarch butterflies. Whorled milkweed (Asclepias verticillata) – tolerates relatively dry soil and provides additional value for pollinators. Purple lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis) – a native grass with airy purple-pink seed heads that can be particularly attractive when planted in groups. Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) – adaptable, drought tolerant once established, and useful for filling spaces between larger plants. Of these, black-eyed Susan, threadleaf coreopsis, and little bluestem would be some of my personal favorites for this location. Planted together in repeating groups, they could create a simple but attractive native planting with flowers through the growing season and the little bluestem providing structure and interest into fall and winter. Rather than planting individual specimens surrounded by large expanses of mulch, I would consider mass planting a limited number of species in repeating groups. This tends to look more intentional in a commercial landscape and, as the plants mature and fill in, can reduce the amount of exposed mulch while providing habitat and food for insects and birds. You could try spreading seed this fall to help keep the project cost effective. You could also try connecting with gardeners in the Virginia Native Plant Society Group or the RVA Gardening group on facebook to see if anyone has an abundance from their yard they would be willing to share. Good luck!!
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Mosquito Management
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Date Posted: Thu, Sep 03 - 6:41 pm
- Mosquitos!!! The bane of our existence here in Midlothian VA where we have lived for the last 23 years. We love to garden and spend lots of time outside. We have tried mosquito shield spray services such as Orkin, Thermacell repellents and of course Off spray and wipes. Any hour of the day, mosquitos swarm to us. In less than 5 minutes they find us no matter what. We've also tried prevention, such as cleaning out gutters, eliminating standing water etc. Do you have reports of products or prevention that have been most effective for Richmonder's wanting to spend time outdoors in their gardens? Thanks so much!
- Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately, mosquitoes can be especially challenging in our warm, humid Richmond-area summers, and it sounds like you have already tried many of the common recommendations. The most effective approach is generally to combine several mosquito-management strategies. You are already doing one of the most important things by eliminating standing water. We recommend continuing to check the property at least weekly, since mosquitoes can develop in surprisingly small amounts of water. In addition to gutters, look closely at flowerpot saucers, tarps, wheelbarrows, toys, buckets, birdbaths, corrugated drain extensions, trash/recycling containers, tree holes, and anywhere else rainwater may collect. Containers should be emptied and scrubbed, not just dumped, because mosquito eggs can remain attached to the sides. For water that cannot reasonably be emptied, such as rain barrels, some water features, or other areas of persistent standing water, consider using a mosquito larvicide containing Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis) according to the product label. These are commonly sold as mosquito dunks or bits and target mosquito larvae before they become biting adults. For personal protection while gardening, EPA-registered repellents remain one of the most reliable options. Active ingredients to look for include DEET, picaridin, IR3535, or oil of lemon eucalyptus/PMD. If you dislike the feel or smell of DEET products, you may find a picaridin-based repellent worth trying. You mentioned Thermacell products as well. These are a type of spatial repellent and can be helpful within a limited area, but their effectiveness can be affected by wind and the size of the area you are trying to protect. They may work better for sitting on a patio than for moving throughout a garden. One additional, simple option to try is air movement. Mosquitoes are relatively weak fliers, so placing a strong outdoor fan near a patio, gardening work area, or other place where you spend significant time can make that particular area much less hospitable to them. We would be cautious about relying heavily on routine whole-yard insecticide spraying, particularly in a garden with flowering plants. Products used to kill adult mosquitoes can also affect non-target insects. CDC guidance specifically recommends avoiding applications to plants in bloom or plants being visited by bees and butterflies. If you do choose professional mosquito treatment, we would suggest asking the company exactly what product they use, where they apply it, and what steps they take to minimize exposure to pollinators. Finally, if mosquito numbers are truly extreme despite diligent management on your property, the source may not be entirely within your yard. Nearby properties, drainage areas, neglected containers, or other standing water can continually produce mosquitoes that move into your garden. I hope this gives you a few additional strategies to try. Unfortunately, there isn't one product that will create a completely mosquito-free garden, but combining breeding-site reduction, larval control, personal repellents, and protection of the areas where you spend the most time can make a noticeable difference.
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Ground Bees
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 11 - 11:24 am
- Our lawn is infested with "ground bees." They emerge in the spring for about two weeks. They do not sting, but they are an annoyance. And they are destructive of our lawn. How can we get rid of them? Are there effective insecticides? Any help will be appreciated
- Thank you for reaching out with your question. Ground bees are solitary, ground-nesting native bees that are among the first pollinators to emerge in spring. Although they often nest in large groups, each female creates and provisions her own nest. They are generally non-aggressive and rarely sting as you mentioned, and their activity typically lasts only a few weeks before the adults disappear for the remainder of the year. During the rest of the year, the developing bees remain underground until the following spring. Because they are important pollinators, Virginia Cooperative Extension recommends leaving them undisturbed whenever possible. Ground bees prefer dry, well-drained soil. If they are nesting in an area where their presence is problematic, keeping the soil moist during their brief spring nesting period can discourage them from using that location in future years. Improving turf density through proper fertilization, overseeding, and irrigation can also make lawns less attractive for nesting by reducing areas of exposed soil. Virginia Cooperative Extension does not generally recommend insecticides for ground bees because of their beneficial role as pollinators and because their active period is so short. By the time treatment is considered, they are often nearly finished nesting for the season. If the bees are creating a safety concern in a high-traffic area, you may wish to consult a licensed pest management professional, but for most situations, tolerating them for the brief period they are active is the preferred management approach. Here are two online articles that discuss ground bees that you may find helpful: https://fairfaxgardening.org/ground-nesting-bees/ https://www.richmonder.org/ground-nesting-bees-are-a-spring-phenomenon-in-richmond/
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Why is my swamp milkweed dying?
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Date Posted: Thu, Aug 14 - 11:54 pm
- I have an established butterfly bush and swamp milkweed plant in my yard. They’re both around 3ft tall. This year, both plants began dying fast. We haven’t dumped anything there, nothing changed as far as plants, soil, drainage, etc. with one exception. Three years ago we planted some Blue Mistflower. It never came up until this year. It is climbing the dead butterfly bush. I’ve read Blue Mistflower spreads via rhizomes and that this could potentially be the cause. Any thoughts? Other things I should check? Thanks!
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! I've connected with one of our gardeners, Pam, that has a wealth of knowledge on native plants to help give you some guidance. There has been a lot of chatter in the Virginia Native Plant Society Facebook group that this has been a banner year for milkweed aphids. Swamp milkweed seems particularly susceptible to this aphid, and you truly have “a” plant (singular), it becomes the sole target for the aphids. The aphids submit a dew that causes a fungus. Unfortunately, the picture doesn’t show the milkweed clearly enough for this to be more than a guess, but we think it’s a reasonable possibility. We wouldn’t blame the blue mist flower. Yes, it’s hardy and loves to spread, but it’s a valuable late-season food source for pollinators. We recommend planting a different companion for it. You did not mention you soil or light conditions, but the Plant RVA Natives guide (download free at vnps.org) will help identify companion plants that can hold their own with an enthusiastic spreader. Pycnanthemum muticum, clustered mountain mint, might be a possibility, and it blooms much earlier, spreading the glory. Since butterfly bush is designated invasive in Virginia, we can’t ethically recommend trying to save it or replacing it with another. But its loss provides an opportunity to plant more natives. If you have additional questions about natives, Pam will be at the West End Branch of the Richmond Public Library on Wednesday afternoons after Labor Day. You are welcome to stop in and chat with her more!
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Preparing new garden beds for planting
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 15 - 10:50 pm
- I need to landscape front garden beds. what’s best to place on top of area for two months. Are tarps weighed down w/bricks okay? Arborist chips clean? I’m old so I want something easy/low maintenance. Planning on native perennials and grasses, a few shrubs/service berry.
- Thank you for your question! It sounds like you're off to a great start with a thoughtful plan for a low-maintenance, native landscape. Both of the options you suggested are great ideas for prepping your beds for planting. 1. Tarps: Yes, tarps weighed down with bricks or secured with lawn staples can work well to smother weeds and prevent new growth before planting. This method is known as "occultation." It’s easy, effective, and doesn't require much labor. Just make sure the tarp is opaque and tightly secured to prevent wind from getting underneath. I have personally had success with using black plastic and lawn staples, and am able to re-use the black plastic when I'm ready to expand the garden. 2. Arborist Wood Chips: Fresh arborist chips are also a great option, especially for a native planting. They help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and gradually improve soil as they break down. It’s fine to apply them now even if they’re “green” (fresh)—just keep them 3–6 inches deep and avoid piling them right against any existing stems or trunks. You can combine both methods too: tarp the area now, then remove the tarp and add arborist chips once you’re ready to plant. Native perennials, grasses, and a few shrubs like serviceberry are perfect choices for a low-maintenance, pollinator-friendly garden. Once established, they should need minimal watering and upkeep. Happy gardening!
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Plant ID: Common Blue Violet (Viola sororia)
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Date Posted: Mon, Jun 09 - 7:29 pm
- Is this plant A weed Invasive
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! Based on the photo you shared, the plant appears to be Common Blue Violet (Viola sororia). While some gardeners consider it a weed due to its ability to spread vigorously, it is actually native to the eastern United States, including Virginia. Its spreading habit can be a challenge if you're aiming for a more controlled or manicured landscape. However, it also offers ecological benefits: it's a host plant for fritillary butterfly larvae, supports pollinators, and provides low-growing ground cover, especially in shady or naturalized areas.
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Converting Lawn to natives
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 26 - 9:39 pm
- I saw in some other responses that the Master Gardener applications started last September and have since closed. Could I be added to the list to receive information when it becomes available again?! I was also curious if y'all had any suggestions for building a grass yard with native grasses and fewer 'weeds.' Would poverty grass be an option? I rent currently, but I don't want that to stop us from building a home that supports native biodiversity!! Thank you so much! :)
- Thanks so much for reaching out—and big kudos to you for wanting to support native biodiversity, even as a renter. Creating a lawn or greenspace with native grasses is a fantastic way to help pollinators, improve soil health, and reduce maintenance and chemical inputs. You're right to consider poverty oatgrass (Danthonia spicata)—it’s a great native grass for our region! It’s clump-forming, drought-tolerant, and performs well in poor soils, which makes it an excellent choice for naturalized lawn areas. However, it doesn’t behave quite like traditional turf—it grows in tufts, so you may want to pair it with other species for fuller coverage. While none of these will act quite like turf grass, here are a couple of others you could consider: Virginia Wildrye (Elymus virginicus) – Grows well in part shade and moist soils. Tolerates mowing, though it’s bunch-forming. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Gorgeous color and structure, though not turf-like. Best for meadows and border plantings. I love mixing this one into flower beds for beautiful color pops! Purpletop (Tridens flavus) – Soft and airy with a lovely purple seed head; adds diversity and texture. River Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) – A beautiful grass for partly shaded areas, but it can spread aggressively. Personally, I love growing this grass in pots and listening to the oats rustle in the wind! (That being said, another great way to add more natives, especially as a renter is to grow them in pots!) This one will be much stalkier than normal turf grass. For a lawn substitute, you could also consider Carex species (native sedges), which resemble turf when mowed and tolerate partial shade: carex crinita and carex vulpinoidea are a couple that typically do well in our area. Hope this helps get you on the path you are looking to be on! And I'll send you an email to follow up about being on the list for information about our next class!
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Finding Natives for a tough spot
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 17 - 4:33 pm
- Hello! We have a particularly difficult section of our garden in Richmond: it's a sloped spot between the driveway and the house, faces south, has pretty lousy soil, and is shaded by nearby oak tree. The only thing that we've been able to grow there is rosemary; everything else we've tried hasn't made it. Are there any native perennials that might survive?
- That sounds like a tricky spot, but there are some native perennials that could thrive in those conditions! Given that the area is south-facing but shaded, has poor soil, and is on a slope, you'll need plants that are drought-tolerant, shade-tolerant, and able to handle soil erosion. Here are some great Virginia native perennials that might work: Low-Maintenance Shrubs American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) – Handles some shade and poor soil, and has striking purple berries in fall. Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) – Tolerates shade and provides late fall yellow blooms. Perennials for Shade & Dry Conditions Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) – A beautiful, drought-tolerant flower that does well in partial shade. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) – A tough native with lovely pinkish-purple flowers in spring. Golden Ragwort (Packera aurea) – Great for erosion control and pollinators, with bright yellow flowers in spring. Ornamental Grasses (For Texture & Erosion Control) Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Drought-tolerant and provides great fall color. (A favorite of mine!) Bottlebrush Grass (Elymus hystrix) – A native grass that thrives in dry shade. Since rosemary has survived, that suggests it’s well-drained soil, possibly a bit alkaline due to the concrete driveway. You may need to amend the soil with compost to help native plants establish, but once they do, they should require little maintenance.
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Wildflower Seedballs
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Date Posted: Fri, Mar 14 - 12:46 pm
- My club, at VCU will be hosting a seed ball making event next week Monday! We were hoping to use wildflowers and other small foliage that should grow with wildflowers native to the capital region. could you share knowledge or knowledge of resources with us? Maybe where we could acquire seeds for cheap/nothing as well as tips on how to go about planting the seed balls?
- Hosting a seed ball-making event is a fantastic initiative to promote native wildflowers and support local ecosystems in the Richmond area. Here's some guidance to help your club prepare: 1. Selecting Native Wildflower Seeds: Choosing species native to Virginia ensures that the plants are well-adapted to the local environment and provide optimal benefits to pollinators and other wildlife. Consider incorporating the following native wildflowers into your seed balls: Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa): A perennial that serves as a host plant for monarch butterflies and blooms from April to September. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta): A versatile plant that can be annual, biennial, or perennial, attracting birds like the American goldfinch and blooming between June and October. Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa): This perennial attracts butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds, with blooms from June to September. Smooth Blue Aster (Symphyotrichum laeve): A perennial that serves as a host plant for the pearl crescent butterfly, blooming from August to October. 2. Acquiring Seeds at Low or No Cost: Virginia Native Pollinator Seed Packets: The Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources offers seed packets containing native wildflowers suitable for various regions in Virginia. These mixes are designed to benefit pollinators and enhance local biodiversity. Seed Libraries: In the fall, the Master Gardeners collected many native seeds from the Amelia Street Urban Forest and shared them in the seed library at the Main Branch Richmond Public Library. I haven't checked back recently, but you are welcome to use whatever is left there! There are many other seed libraries around the city, some may have wildflower seeds in them VCU Office of sustainability: If you are not already connected with them, they would potentially be a good resource for helping you source free or low cost seeds. 3. Tips for Making and Planting Seed Balls: This website has two great recipes for making seed balls, one using paper as a base, and the other using soil and flour: https://chicagocommunitygardens.org/2020/04/22/for-earth-day-or-any-day-make-a-seed-bomb/ For planting tips, this will ultimately depend on what seeds you end up getting. Some seeds do best getting planted in the fall in order to go through a cold stratification. And others will be successful if planted this spring. Seed balls can be placed on soil just before rain and the precipitation will help distribute them into the soil and aid in germination. 4. Additional Resources: Plant Virginia Natives (pantvirginianatives.org): This initiative provides comprehensive information on native plants, including where to purchase them and guidance on creating pollinator-friendly habitats. Keep Virginia Beautiful (keepvirginiabeautiful.org): This organization offers resources and initiatives aimed at enhancing Virginia's natural and scenic environment, including distributing wildflower seed packets to promote beautification and support pollinators. Good luck with your seed ball making event! We will keep an eye out around the city for more native flowers to pop up :)
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Crape Myrtle Bark Scale
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 28 - 12:46 am
- Other than digging up and destroying crape myrtles what is the next best solution for crape Myrtle scale?
- A systemic insecticide in the spring is the recommended treatment for Crape Myrtle Bark Scale (CMBS) . A soil drench of imidacloprid or dinotefuran is recommended when crape myrtles begin to leaf out in the spring, usually around April. Personally, I've had success with Bonide products and find them to be available at many local garden shops. Bonide has an annual tree and shrub product that has an active ingredient of imidacloprid. (Other insecticide recommendations from the extension office are available here: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/456/456-017/456-017.html) If you decided to go with an insecticidal soap spray, just be sure to refrain from applying it when pollinators or other beneficial insects such as ladybird beetles are present on the trees. If you would really prefer to stay away from insecticides, another control option is to lightly scrub the main trunks of crape myrtles with soapy water made with mild dish detergent and a stiff-bristled brush to kill and remove CMBS. This also removes some of the sooty mold and the loose exfoliating bark that shelters CMBS, exposing the scales to any spray treatments that may be applied. And finally, its important to check and be sure your control methods are working. To assess if a control treatment was effective or not: check for live CMBS by running a fingernail over the scales and looking for a pinkish-red fluid. Dead scales will be dry, but their white bodies may persist on the trunk and branches of crape myrtle until they weather off. Good luck!!