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Declining Rose Bushes
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 20 - 12:18 am
- We have a row of drift roses out from for the last 8 years, last year once bush died totally after pruning and was replaced but two others appear to have dying branches in places but are blooming in others. Do you have any recommendations? They previously were huge and bloomed all summer.
- Thank you for reaching out about your drift roses. After 8 years, it’s not uncommon to see some decline in vigor, and the symptoms you’re describing (a bush dying after pruning, and others showing partial dieback while still blooming) may have several contributing factors. Possible Causes Age & Natural Decline: Drift roses, while hardy, often start to lose vigor after 7–10 years. Decline in individual plants can be expected over time. Pruning Stress: If roses are pruned too severely or at the wrong time (late fall/early winter), it can stress the plant and increase vulnerability to dieback. Canker or Dieback Disease: Fungal cankers can cause branches to brown and die back while other parts of the shrub continue to bloom. Look for discolored, sunken, or shriveled stems. Root Stress: After many years in the same spot, soil compaction, poor drainage, or root competition from nearby shrubs can weaken roses. Environmental Stress: Last winter’s cold snaps, summer drought, or inconsistent watering can also contribute. Recommendations Inspect the Canes: Cut into affected stems. If the wood inside is brown rather than green/white, prune those branches back to healthy tissue. Sterilize pruners between cuts (70% alcohol or 10% bleach solution). Monitor for Pests/Disease: Check for signs of fungal cankers, crown gall, or borers. Mulch & Soil Health: Refresh mulch to 2–3 inches (but keep away from the crown). Consider lightly amending with compost to improve soil structure and nutrients. Watering Practices: Provide consistent deep watering during dry spells, especially since stressed plants are more susceptible to disease. Rejuvenation Option: If more bushes continue declining, you may want to replace them gradually. Consider rotating in disease-resistant shrub roses or other flowering shrubs to diversify and reduce the chance of future loss. Since one plant has already died and others are showing decline, you may be at the natural replacement stage for part of the row. Healthy roses can last many years, but staggered replacement every few years can keep the planting full and vibrant.
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Garden Support at The Doorways
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 06 - 2:48 pm
- I am the Volunteer and Outreach Manager for The Doorways, a nonprofit in Richmond that provides lodging for patients and their family members while they receive medical care nearby. We have a lovely garden area that needs some pruning/mulching and new plants for fall. I'm wondering how to connect with volunteer Master Gardner's to see if there's interest. Thank you!
- Thank you so much for reaching out — The Doorways provides such an important service to the Richmond community, and your garden sounds like a lovely and meaningful space for your guests. As Master Gardeners, our primary mission is education. Our volunteer efforts are focused on teaching and sharing best practices related to horticulture and sustainable gardening. While we aren’t a labor-based group, we’d be happy to support your efforts in an educational capacity. If you're interested in learning more about what types of plants could thrive in your garden or how to plan for fall planting, we can connect with our volunteers to see if we have someone available for a consultation. For hands-on help with pruning, mulching, or planting, we would recommend reaching out to a local garden club or professional landscaping service who may be better equipped for that type of volunteer or contracted work. Please e-mail us if you are interested in a planting consultation: rvamastergardeners@gmail.com
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Serviceberry TLC
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 31 - 10:56 pm
- My service berry tree has split bark in several places and there may be insects in the bark. There are many yellow leaves. The tree doesn’t look healthy. I planted it in the fall. Is there anything I can do to save it?
- Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your serviceberry tree is experiencing some stress, but we’ll do our best to help you support its recovery. Yellowing leaves can indicate a few things: transplant shock, water stress, or even nutrient deficiency. This is common in newly planted trees as they adjust to their environment. Split bark can also be a sign of environmental stress like rapid temperature changes in winter (known as frost cracks or sunscald), mechanical injury (e.g., weed trimmers or animals), and overwatering or underwatering. Unfortunately, splits in the bark can make the tree more susceptible to insect or disease invasion. If you see insects, they may be opportunists rather than the primary cause. What You Can Do: Inspect the trunk: Look closely at any insects you find. If you can, take a clear photo to try to ID. Mulch properly: Place a 2–3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it a few inches away from the trunk) to regulate soil temperature and moisture. Water consistently: Deeply water once a week during dry periods. Avoid overwatering—serviceberries prefer moist but well-drained soil. Prune carefully: Remove any obviously dead or damaged branches, but avoid heavy pruning during stress periods. Avoid fertilizer for now: Wait until the tree is more stable before fertilizing. It may take some time for your serviceberry to bounce back, but with proper care and monitoring, it could still recover. We wish you the best! For more information, check out: https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/serviceberry/
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Pruning limelight hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 15 - 10:37 pm
- I read that hydrangea blossoms need to be cut by the end of July or the plant won’t blossom next year. I have a limelight hydrangea. Is that true?
- Thanks for reaching out! That advice applies only to hydrangeas that bloom on old wood, like bigleaf (macrophylla) or oakleaf (quercifolia) varieties. These set their flower buds in late summer or early fall, so pruning late removes next year’s blossoms. But Limelight hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’) is a panicle hydrangea, which blooms on new wood—the current year’s growth For limelight hydrangeas, we recommend pruning in late winter or early spring, before new buds emerge. You can prune again in fall or winter to remove dead wood and shape the plant. It is not necessary that you prune your limelight by the end of July - you can continue to enjoy blossoms through the summer!
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Pruning Oakleaf Hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Fri, Jul 11 - 12:54 am
- I have an oakleaf hydrangea that has grown too large for its spot in my yard here in Richmond. When is the best time to cut it back and should I cut its branches close to the trunk? Can it be encouraged to grow more vertically and not spread out horizontally?
- Thank you for your question about your oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)! I frequently walk past the ones Maymont has in their parking lot at the nature center and am always admiring how beautiful they are but they can indeed outgrow their space over time. Timing: The best time to prune oakleaf hydrangeas is shortly after they finish blooming, typically in late June through early August here in Richmond. These shrubs bloom on old wood, meaning they form next year’s flower buds on stems grown the previous year. Pruning in late summer or fall will likely remove those buds and reduce flowering the following year. How to prune: Avoid cutting branches all the way back to the trunk. Instead, remove about 1/3 of the oldest, thickest stems at the base to encourage new growth and improve shape. You can also shorten some of the remaining stems to reduce overall size and guide the shape—just make cuts back to a bud or side branch. Encouraging vertical growth: Oakleaf hydrangeas naturally have a broad, spreading habit. While you can’t dramatically change this growth pattern, you can encourage a more upright form by thinning out wide-angled branches and encouraging vertical shoots, selectively removing outward-growing stems to reduce width, and/or using light staking or support for young vertical stems if needed (though this is more effective in younger plants). If the space is truly too small for the mature size of your shrub, long-term, you might consider relocating it in the fall or early spring when it’s dormant. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Hydrangea Pruning
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Date Posted: Wed, Jun 04 - 1:52 am
- Hello! My hydrangeas need some help. I inherited them with my new to me house in late fall, so this spring was my first opportunity to prune. They were already overgrown from the past owners. For the big leaf hydrangeas: I missed the fall pruning, so these haven't had a haircut since who knows when. The branches are getting weighed down from the weight of the flower and leaves, and the plant is very leggy. Should I try and start selectively and slowly clipping them back now or wait until they're done blooming and do it one big chop? If now, do I cut the old leggy wood back, or just the new green branches that are stemming from the old leggy wood (the two blooms on the top of the left bush are an example)? For the panicle hydrangea in the middle: I cut what I thought was way back this spring, but clearly not enough! Should I be trying to selectively trim some of this back now or bite the bullet and wait until spring and do a big chop? It's so tall and it's only May! Thank you!
- Thanks for reaching out—and congratulations on your new home and garden! It sounds like you’re giving your hydrangeas some thoughtful attention, which they’ll definitely appreciate. The blooms are beautiful! Here’s a breakdown of how to approach pruning both your bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) and your panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata): Bigleaf Hydrangeas : These bloom on old wood, meaning the flower buds for this summer formed last year. That’s why heavy spring pruning can often result in fewer blooms. Since yours are blooming now, I'd recommend that you hold off on major pruning until after they finish flowering—typically by mid to late summer. Then you can: Remove about 1/3 of the oldest, leggiest stems at the base to encourage new growth from the bottom and lightly shape the plant by shortening stems that look untidy or weighed down. Avoid pruning after August, however, as that risks cutting off next year’s flower buds. In the meantime, if any branches are flopping badly or blocking paths, you can do a light, selective trim now—just avoid heavy cuts that remove flower buds. Panicle Hydrangeas: These bloom on new wood, so you have more flexibility with timing. You’re absolutely right that they can grow quickly in spring! For now, you can lightly thin or shorten a few of the tallest stems to maintain a more manageable shape but avoid cutting more than 1/3 of the plant this time of year. If it’s still too tall for your space, plan for a more significant structural pruning next late winter/early spring, before new growth starts. General Tips: Always cut just above a pair of healthy buds or a leaf node. Use clean, sharp pruners to avoid disease. Consider adding mulch and checking soil drainage if plants look stressed or leggy—bigleaf hydrangeas especially like evenly moist (but not soggy) soil.
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Pruning a dwarf apricot tree
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Date Posted: Thu, May 08 - 11:20 pm
- We have a dwarf apricot tree in our backyard near our privacy fence (designated by purple arrow in photo). Unfortunately, one of the medium size limbs at the top has stretched over our privacy fence into our neighbor’s yard. I want to but the limb but I’m nervous about damaging the tree since it’s spring time. Would it be okay to cut it at this time of year?
- Thanks for your question about pruning your dwarf apricot tree. It’s totally understandable to want to manage the limb growing into your neighbor’s yard, and you’re right to think carefully about timing. While late winter or early spring (before bud break) is generally the best time to prune apricot trees, light or selective pruning—even now in late spring—is okay, especially if it’s necessary to maintain boundaries or reduce potential damage. Just keep a few tips in mind to minimize stress on the tree: -Use clean, sharp tools to make a clean cut just outside the branch collar (the slightly swollen area where the limb connects to the trunk or larger branch). -Avoid removing more than 10–15% of the tree’s total canopy during the growing season. -Try to prune on a dry day to reduce the risk of fungal infections entering the fresh cut. If you only need to remove one medium-sized limb, your apricot tree should tolerate it well—especially if it's otherwise healthy. Make sure to monitor the tree through the season for any signs of stress (like leaf drop or dieback) and water consistently during dry spells.
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Rhododendron Questions
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Date Posted: Thu, May 08 - 11:14 pm
- I have an established rhododendron and a couple of questions 1. Some leaves tern yellow and die and fall off 2. Others show yellowing but remain 3. New shoots form at the base but die never to mature 4 is there any way to encourage new growth on the old branches
- Thanks for reaching out with your rhododendron questions! You’ve made some great observations, and your plant is definitely trying to tell you something. Here are a few possible explanations and tips based on what you described: Yellowing and Leaf Drop: Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal, especially for older inner leaves. However, widespread or early-season yellowing in Richmond can also point to stress from heat or underlying root issues, particularly since rhododendrons are naturally cool-climate, understory plants. Our warm springs and hot summers can make them more susceptible to systemic diseases or environmental stress. Persistent Yellow Leaves: This could be a sign of sun stress—rhododendrons prefer morning sun with dappled afternoon shade. Too much direct, hot afternoon sun can cause the kind of yellowing you're seeing. Poor drainage or soil that’s too alkaline can also cause nutrient uptake issues, leading to chlorosis (leaf yellowing). New Shoots Dying Back: When new shoots at the base fail to mature, it often points to root zone stress, such as poor drainage, fungal root diseases, or heat stress. Check that mulch isn't piled too high against the base and that the soil is staying moist but not soggy. Encouraging New Growth on Old Branches: Yes! Light pruning in early spring, just after flowering, can stimulate new growth. Avoid heavy pruning all at once; instead, gradually thin out leggy or unproductive branches over time. Make cuts just above a healthy bud or leaf whorl to encourage branching. Good luck with your rhododendron!
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Growing Elderberries
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 12 - 12:43 pm
- Hello! I was just gifted a native elderberry and I'm looking for some advice. I also plan to get another one so they can bear fruit. I've been watching tons of videos but they all seem contradictory! I live in Richmond (Battery Park) with an urban yard - it's a bit bigger than typical row house size, and bordered by a shared fence on each side. I have a few areas to plant the elderberry where it will get at least 8 hours of full sun a day. My concern is that I want to keep the bush somewhat contained - I know they can grow quite large, but is there a way to prune it so it stays under 7-8 feet but still bears fruit? And, do you have any advice on how to stay on top of root suckers? I'm not sure how far the suckers will travel, but if they head into my neighbors yard I obviously wouldn't be able to see the sprout to know where to cut the root. I also heard the roots are quite hardy, so I'm trying to consider whether to plant near a retaining wall. In the videos I'm watching the plants all seem pretty naturally contained (versus something like blackberry which gets out of control), but I want to do everything I can to help out. Hoping I can make this work! I appreciate any advice you have. If helpful, I can send a photo of my backyard. Thank you, Julie
- What a lovely gift! I hope this will be something you are able to enjoy for years to come. And you are right! You will need a second one for cross pollination. We don't typically think of elderberries being wildly invasive, so I'd expect with your awareness of the need to keep an eye out for suckers, and your desire to prune it to keep it at a reasonable size, you will be pleased with your elderberry. A couple of pruning tips: Once the plant is established (after year 1 or 2), you can cut back about 1/3 of the oldest stems to the ground each year to encourage new growth. To keep overall height in check, you can also cut the remaining stems back to your desired height (just above strong buds). Many gardeners cut stems to about 3–4 feet in early spring, which results in a bush that finishes around 6–8 feet tall by summer. Managing suckers: You’re right—elderberries do sucker from the roots and can spread over time, though they are usually less aggressive than blackberries. The suckers typically emerge within a few feet of the main plant, though they can travel farther in ideal conditions. To manage them, check around the base of the plant regularly during the growing season and cut suckers at the soil line or dig back to the root and clip at the source. You might also consider planting your elderberries in a root barrier ring—digging a trench and installing landscape edging 12–18" deep around the planting area to contain the roots. Planting near a retaining wall: Elderberry roots aren’t known for damaging structures like a retaining wall, but they are persistent. If you're concerned about suckers creeping into a neighbor’s yard or through shared fences, planting 3–5 feet away from those boundaries is a good buffer. That space also makes it easier to walk around the plant and manage pruning or harvesting. Hope this helps as you decide where to plant! Best of luck to you! Hope you will enjoy your elderberries for years to come.
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Tree Girdling
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Date Posted: Tue, Oct 08 - 11:35 pm
- I have what appears to be a very intense girdling root situation happening with my ruby red falls (red bud cultivar). The top of the tree died off entirely this year so I cut the dead part off (about 1 ft) earlier in the spring and just now decided to check the roots. It did produce a lot of leaves and appears to be in just ok health, but is not thriving by any means. Is this tree salvageable? Any suggestions?
- Thanks for reaching out to the master gardeners for help with your tree. I've sent your photo to a handful of other master gardeners in our group so that we can have a few opinions to share with you. Overall, we do not see serious concern for girdling in the photo that you sent. If you are seeing girdling that we can not see (maybe on the other side of the tree) you could always cut those roots away taking care to not cut into the stem/trunk of the tree. Your heavy pruning of the tree earlier this year could certainly be a cause of the abnormal growth you saw this year. From your photo, it does appear that your tree may have been planted too deep. You could pull a lot of the soil back from the tree in order to create a more shallow planting and see if this helps to improve the health of your plant. If ultimately the tree does not survive and you are looking to replace it, we would recommend going with a straight species like Cercis canadensis (Eastern Redbud)