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Figs, mint, strawberries and cilantro
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Date Posted: Wed, May 06 - 2:08 am
- Hello, I purchased a small fig tree in a plant sale. However, I read after purchase that they can be really aggressive here in VA and choke other plants/roots extend so far that they can damage walls and foundation. I wanted to check if I should put it in a container or plant it as planned in an area that gets east and south Sun. If planted in the ground, how far should it be from structures? Is there an extra way to control its root growth ( pruning in the winter for example )? The same question for strawberries and herbs like sweat mint and cilantro. I read that they could spread and take over the garden and that a flower bed won’t keep them contained. Would they be better planted in a raised garden bed?
- It sounds like you had a great day at the plant sale and have several great questions! Starting with figs ... This is a really great resource about growing figs put out by the Virginia Cooperative Extension office and I believe it answers all of your questions: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/pubs_ext_vt_edu/en/SPES/spes-760.html If you are interested in doing a soil test before planting, there are typically soil tests available from the local libraries. Also, if you'd like to see some examples of mature figs, including one that was recently pruned, you can visit Humphrey Calder Community garden at the corner of Thompson and Patterson. The pruning was done by the city to ease maintenance around the tree and protect the fence. Strawberries and mint are both eager growers and like to spread and can be challenging to control when planted in the ground. Personally, I always plant mint in a large grow bag. It is very happy there, comes back year after year, and is well contained. Strawberries can also be grown in containers easily, or you could make a small raised bed for them. There is another example of this at Humphrey calder - you will find a bed near the center opening area that is mostly strawberries, but the gardener grows other things in the middle of the strawberries, like tomatoes. The Piedmont Master Gardeners have a great resource about growing strawberries: https://www.piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/strawberry-basics-for-the-home-garden/ Cilantro is not something I have ever had to worry about taking over. It is very temperature sensitive and bolts easily as the weather warms. The cilantro I've been growing this spring has already bolted (gone to flower and forming seeds). I would recommend finding a shady spot for your cilantro, and if planting in a pot helps you get it in a shady spot, then that work perfectly fine. This is a great resource for growing cilantro in Virginia: https://gardenclub.org/blog/cilantro-cool-season-culinary-herb Good luck with your new plants! Have fun!
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Pruning Camillias
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Date Posted: Wed, Apr 08 - 11:33 pm
- Good morning. My Camellia trees that are very mature just finished blooming. I would like to do a hard cut back to about 2 feet tall to reshape. With them blooming so late in the season may I do that now? The trees are greater than 20 years old and very healthy. Their shape is just gotten off over the years.
- Thank you for reaching out to the master gardeners! You are actually in the perfect window to prune since your camellias have just finished blooming. Camellias, even mature ones like yours, are generally very tolerant of hard pruning, so cutting them back to around 2 feet (a rejuvenation prune) is acceptable, especially since they are healthy and well established. That said, you should expect to lose blooms for next season because you’ll be removing developing buds, and the plants may look a bit sparse or uneven at first as they push out new growth over the next one to two growing seasons. When pruning, try to make cuts just above a leaf node or lateral branch, and after pruning, support recovery with consistent watering and mulch rather than heavy fertilization right away. If you’d prefer a more gradual approach, you could also reduce the size over two years by removing a portion of the older wood each season. Overall, your camellias should respond well, it will just be a bit of a reset before they fill back in beautifully. This is a great general resource about pruning put out by the Virginia Extension office: https://www.cmgv.org/images/References/Pruning%20Calendar%202019.pdf
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Pruning Rosemary
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Date Posted: Tue, Mar 03 - 11:11 am
- I moved into a house with an overgrown Rosemary bush. I love it but I think it needs some help. How would you prune it without killing it. I'm afraid if I trim it too far back it might die. I have no idea how old it is.
- Thank you for your question — what a gift to inherit a mature rosemary plant! Established rosemary can live for many years, but it does tend to become woody and overgrown over time. The most important thing to know is that rosemary does not reliably regrow from old, bare wood. If you cut back into thick, leafless stems, those sections often will not resprout. For that reason, pruning should be done conservatively and gradually. The best time to prune rosemary in Virginia is in early spring after the risk of hard frost has passed, or lightly after it finishes flowering. Begin by removing any clearly dead wood — you can gently scratch the bark with your fingernail to check for green tissue underneath, which indicates the stem is still alive. When shaping the plant, avoid cutting back into bare woody stems. Instead, always leave at least an inch or two of green growth on the stem. It’s safest to remove no more than about one-third of the plant at a time, especially if it is quite overgrown. If significant reduction is needed, spreading the pruning out over one or two growing seasons will reduce stress on the plant. When making cuts, trim just above a set of green leaves to encourage branching and fuller growth. If most of the plant consists of woody stems with growth only at the tips, you may be limited to light shaping rather than a dramatic cutback. In that case, you might consider taking a few soft cuttings in spring to start a new plant as a backup. Good luck! I love having fresh rosemary to pick from in the backyard! I hope you will be able to enjoy this plant for many years to come.
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Hydrangea identification & tips
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Date Posted: Fri, Oct 31 - 10:02 am
- Any idea what kind of hydrangea this might be? It was in the garden when we moved in. Maybe the first year a couple of pinkish blooms but last year nothing In particular any suggestions for pruning would be appreciated
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners and for including the picture! From your description and photo, we think your hydrangea is most likely a Hydrangea macrophylla (French hydrangea). French hydrangeas are deciduous shrubs known for their rounded clusters of pink, blue, or purple flowers. And it sounds like your plant is still young, which can explain the limited blooming so far — these shrubs often take a few seasons to establish before flowering reliably. Here are a few tips about pruning to help improve your blooms: Hydrangea macrophylla blooms on old wood, meaning next year’s flowers form on stems that grew this year. Because of that, pruning at the wrong time can remove potential flower buds. Only prune right after the plant finishes blooming (early to mid-summer). Avoid pruning in fall, winter, or spring, as this will remove next season’s buds. When pruning, remove only dead, damaged, or very weak stems, and lightly shape the plant to improve airflow. Older, woody stems can be cut back at the base every few years to encourage new growth. A few other things to note about these hydrangeas: They prefer partial sun — ideally morning sunlight with afternoon shade. They like moist but well-drained soil rich in organic matter. You can add compost to improve texture and moisture retention. They should be kept evenly moist during dry periods, especially in hot weather. If your soil is naturally acidic, you may also notice the flower color shift toward blue; in more alkaline soil, blooms stay pink. We hope these tips will help you see more blooms in the years to come!
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Declining Rose Bushes
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 20 - 12:18 am
- We have a row of drift roses out from for the last 8 years, last year once bush died totally after pruning and was replaced but two others appear to have dying branches in places but are blooming in others. Do you have any recommendations? They previously were huge and bloomed all summer.
- Thank you for reaching out about your drift roses. After 8 years, it’s not uncommon to see some decline in vigor, and the symptoms you’re describing (a bush dying after pruning, and others showing partial dieback while still blooming) may have several contributing factors. Possible Causes Age & Natural Decline: Drift roses, while hardy, often start to lose vigor after 7–10 years. Decline in individual plants can be expected over time. Pruning Stress: If roses are pruned too severely or at the wrong time (late fall/early winter), it can stress the plant and increase vulnerability to dieback. Canker or Dieback Disease: Fungal cankers can cause branches to brown and die back while other parts of the shrub continue to bloom. Look for discolored, sunken, or shriveled stems. Root Stress: After many years in the same spot, soil compaction, poor drainage, or root competition from nearby shrubs can weaken roses. Environmental Stress: Last winter’s cold snaps, summer drought, or inconsistent watering can also contribute. Recommendations Inspect the Canes: Cut into affected stems. If the wood inside is brown rather than green/white, prune those branches back to healthy tissue. Sterilize pruners between cuts (70% alcohol or 10% bleach solution). Monitor for Pests/Disease: Check for signs of fungal cankers, crown gall, or borers. Mulch & Soil Health: Refresh mulch to 2–3 inches (but keep away from the crown). Consider lightly amending with compost to improve soil structure and nutrients. Watering Practices: Provide consistent deep watering during dry spells, especially since stressed plants are more susceptible to disease. Rejuvenation Option: If more bushes continue declining, you may want to replace them gradually. Consider rotating in disease-resistant shrub roses or other flowering shrubs to diversify and reduce the chance of future loss. Since one plant has already died and others are showing decline, you may be at the natural replacement stage for part of the row. Healthy roses can last many years, but staggered replacement every few years can keep the planting full and vibrant.
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Garden Support at The Doorways
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 06 - 2:48 pm
- I am the Volunteer and Outreach Manager for The Doorways, a nonprofit in Richmond that provides lodging for patients and their family members while they receive medical care nearby. We have a lovely garden area that needs some pruning/mulching and new plants for fall. I'm wondering how to connect with volunteer Master Gardner's to see if there's interest. Thank you!
- Thank you so much for reaching out — The Doorways provides such an important service to the Richmond community, and your garden sounds like a lovely and meaningful space for your guests. As Master Gardeners, our primary mission is education. Our volunteer efforts are focused on teaching and sharing best practices related to horticulture and sustainable gardening. While we aren’t a labor-based group, we’d be happy to support your efforts in an educational capacity. If you're interested in learning more about what types of plants could thrive in your garden or how to plan for fall planting, we can connect with our volunteers to see if we have someone available for a consultation. For hands-on help with pruning, mulching, or planting, we would recommend reaching out to a local garden club or professional landscaping service who may be better equipped for that type of volunteer or contracted work. Please e-mail us if you are interested in a planting consultation: rvamastergardeners@gmail.com
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Serviceberry TLC
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 31 - 10:56 pm
- My service berry tree has split bark in several places and there may be insects in the bark. There are many yellow leaves. The tree doesn’t look healthy. I planted it in the fall. Is there anything I can do to save it?
- Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your serviceberry tree is experiencing some stress, but we’ll do our best to help you support its recovery. Yellowing leaves can indicate a few things: transplant shock, water stress, or even nutrient deficiency. This is common in newly planted trees as they adjust to their environment. Split bark can also be a sign of environmental stress like rapid temperature changes in winter (known as frost cracks or sunscald), mechanical injury (e.g., weed trimmers or animals), and overwatering or underwatering. Unfortunately, splits in the bark can make the tree more susceptible to insect or disease invasion. If you see insects, they may be opportunists rather than the primary cause. What You Can Do: Inspect the trunk: Look closely at any insects you find. If you can, take a clear photo to try to ID. Mulch properly: Place a 2–3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it a few inches away from the trunk) to regulate soil temperature and moisture. Water consistently: Deeply water once a week during dry periods. Avoid overwatering—serviceberries prefer moist but well-drained soil. Prune carefully: Remove any obviously dead or damaged branches, but avoid heavy pruning during stress periods. Avoid fertilizer for now: Wait until the tree is more stable before fertilizing. It may take some time for your serviceberry to bounce back, but with proper care and monitoring, it could still recover. We wish you the best! For more information, check out: https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/serviceberry/
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Pruning limelight hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 15 - 10:37 pm
- I read that hydrangea blossoms need to be cut by the end of July or the plant won’t blossom next year. I have a limelight hydrangea. Is that true?
- Thanks for reaching out! That advice applies only to hydrangeas that bloom on old wood, like bigleaf (macrophylla) or oakleaf (quercifolia) varieties. These set their flower buds in late summer or early fall, so pruning late removes next year’s blossoms. But Limelight hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’) is a panicle hydrangea, which blooms on new wood—the current year’s growth For limelight hydrangeas, we recommend pruning in late winter or early spring, before new buds emerge. You can prune again in fall or winter to remove dead wood and shape the plant. It is not necessary that you prune your limelight by the end of July - you can continue to enjoy blossoms through the summer!
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Pruning Oakleaf Hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Fri, Jul 11 - 12:54 am
- I have an oakleaf hydrangea that has grown too large for its spot in my yard here in Richmond. When is the best time to cut it back and should I cut its branches close to the trunk? Can it be encouraged to grow more vertically and not spread out horizontally?
- Thank you for your question about your oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)! I frequently walk past the ones Maymont has in their parking lot at the nature center and am always admiring how beautiful they are but they can indeed outgrow their space over time. Timing: The best time to prune oakleaf hydrangeas is shortly after they finish blooming, typically in late June through early August here in Richmond. These shrubs bloom on old wood, meaning they form next year’s flower buds on stems grown the previous year. Pruning in late summer or fall will likely remove those buds and reduce flowering the following year. How to prune: Avoid cutting branches all the way back to the trunk. Instead, remove about 1/3 of the oldest, thickest stems at the base to encourage new growth and improve shape. You can also shorten some of the remaining stems to reduce overall size and guide the shape—just make cuts back to a bud or side branch. Encouraging vertical growth: Oakleaf hydrangeas naturally have a broad, spreading habit. While you can’t dramatically change this growth pattern, you can encourage a more upright form by thinning out wide-angled branches and encouraging vertical shoots, selectively removing outward-growing stems to reduce width, and/or using light staking or support for young vertical stems if needed (though this is more effective in younger plants). If the space is truly too small for the mature size of your shrub, long-term, you might consider relocating it in the fall or early spring when it’s dormant. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Hydrangea Pruning
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Date Posted: Wed, Jun 04 - 1:52 am
- Hello! My hydrangeas need some help. I inherited them with my new to me house in late fall, so this spring was my first opportunity to prune. They were already overgrown from the past owners. For the big leaf hydrangeas: I missed the fall pruning, so these haven't had a haircut since who knows when. The branches are getting weighed down from the weight of the flower and leaves, and the plant is very leggy. Should I try and start selectively and slowly clipping them back now or wait until they're done blooming and do it one big chop? If now, do I cut the old leggy wood back, or just the new green branches that are stemming from the old leggy wood (the two blooms on the top of the left bush are an example)? For the panicle hydrangea in the middle: I cut what I thought was way back this spring, but clearly not enough! Should I be trying to selectively trim some of this back now or bite the bullet and wait until spring and do a big chop? It's so tall and it's only May! Thank you!
- Thanks for reaching out—and congratulations on your new home and garden! It sounds like you’re giving your hydrangeas some thoughtful attention, which they’ll definitely appreciate. The blooms are beautiful! Here’s a breakdown of how to approach pruning both your bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) and your panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata): Bigleaf Hydrangeas : These bloom on old wood, meaning the flower buds for this summer formed last year. That’s why heavy spring pruning can often result in fewer blooms. Since yours are blooming now, I'd recommend that you hold off on major pruning until after they finish flowering—typically by mid to late summer. Then you can: Remove about 1/3 of the oldest, leggiest stems at the base to encourage new growth from the bottom and lightly shape the plant by shortening stems that look untidy or weighed down. Avoid pruning after August, however, as that risks cutting off next year’s flower buds. In the meantime, if any branches are flopping badly or blocking paths, you can do a light, selective trim now—just avoid heavy cuts that remove flower buds. Panicle Hydrangeas: These bloom on new wood, so you have more flexibility with timing. You’re absolutely right that they can grow quickly in spring! For now, you can lightly thin or shorten a few of the tallest stems to maintain a more manageable shape but avoid cutting more than 1/3 of the plant this time of year. If it’s still too tall for your space, plan for a more significant structural pruning next late winter/early spring, before new growth starts. General Tips: Always cut just above a pair of healthy buds or a leaf node. Use clean, sharp pruners to avoid disease. Consider adding mulch and checking soil drainage if plants look stressed or leggy—bigleaf hydrangeas especially like evenly moist (but not soggy) soil.