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Creating Privacy Screen with Natives
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 31 - 5:07 pm
- I am finally removing the Japanese privet and coral ardisia that has been growing along our wrap-around porch for 15+ years. What native trees or shrubs would be a good replacement? They'll be on the north side of the house in the shade of a large holly tree, and we'd like them to provide a visual block from a busy road.
- We love to hear that you are planning to plant more natives in your yard! Since your planting site is on the north side of the house and shaded by a large holly tree, the soil is likely to stay on the drier side due to root competition and limited rainfall reaching the ground. Here are some ideas of excellent natives that help create a screen to help get you started: Wax Myrtle (Morella cerifera): will create a nice evergreen hedge which might be appropriate for the first 10 feet of the screen. Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana): this will create a fairly dense privacy screen. There are dwarf varieties available so you don’t have to contend with the potential of 40 ft tall screen. You could also consider incorporating some flowering plants along the line of evergreens , or plant in front of the hedge: Chickasaw Plum (Prunus angustifolia): A non deciduous small tree that would add color and fruit for wildlife. Coastal Plain Service-berry (Amelanchier obovalis): A multiple-trunk tree or shrub, 12 to 25 feet tall. I would also recommend taking a look over these resources, as they may help you pick out plants that are better suited for your particular space and preferences: Plant RVA Natives: https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives Virginia Native Plant Society: https://vnps.org/ Digital Atlas of the Virginia Flora: https://vaplantatlas.org/
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Finding Natives for a tough spot
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 17 - 4:33 pm
- Hello! We have a particularly difficult section of our garden in Richmond: it's a sloped spot between the driveway and the house, faces south, has pretty lousy soil, and is shaded by nearby oak tree. The only thing that we've been able to grow there is rosemary; everything else we've tried hasn't made it. Are there any native perennials that might survive?
- That sounds like a tricky spot, but there are some native perennials that could thrive in those conditions! Given that the area is south-facing but shaded, has poor soil, and is on a slope, you'll need plants that are drought-tolerant, shade-tolerant, and able to handle soil erosion. Here are some great Virginia native perennials that might work: Low-Maintenance Shrubs American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) – Handles some shade and poor soil, and has striking purple berries in fall. Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) – Tolerates shade and provides late fall yellow blooms. Perennials for Shade & Dry Conditions Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) – A beautiful, drought-tolerant flower that does well in partial shade. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) – A tough native with lovely pinkish-purple flowers in spring. Golden Ragwort (Packera aurea) – Great for erosion control and pollinators, with bright yellow flowers in spring. Ornamental Grasses (For Texture & Erosion Control) Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Drought-tolerant and provides great fall color. (A favorite of mine!) Bottlebrush Grass (Elymus hystrix) – A native grass that thrives in dry shade. Since rosemary has survived, that suggests it’s well-drained soil, possibly a bit alkaline due to the concrete driveway. You may need to amend the soil with compost to help native plants establish, but once they do, they should require little maintenance.
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Connecting with RVA Master Gardeners
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Date Posted: Sat, Feb 22 - 12:22 am
- I am the volunteer coordinator for Powhatan State Park in Powhatan, VA. We are hosting a volunteer event on March 8th where we will be planting up to 900 shrubs in the park to make wildlife corridor. I was hoping to get in touch with some of the RVA master gardeners so that they can distribute the information about this event among their members.
- Hello! Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! I will follow up with you by email.
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Fruit trees for shade
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 12 - 1:52 am
- Hello! We have an empty corner in our yard that I'd like to fill with a fruit-bearing tree. This side of the house is north-facing and has several tall oaks creating lots of shade. Would a pawpaw work in this environment? Do you have other native tree suggestions? Thanks!
- Hello! A pawpaw tree (Asimina triloba) could be a great option for your north-facing yard with shade from tall oaks. Pawpaws are native understory trees, meaning they naturally grow in forested environments with limited sunlight. They can thrive in partial shade, but for the best fruit production, they benefit from a few hours of dappled sunlight. In deep shade, they may grow more slowly and produce less fruit. We want to point out that pawpaws prefer moist, well-drained soil. In nature, they are often found in fertile bottomlands, along riverbanks, and in the understory of hardwood forests, where the soil retains moisture but does not stay waterlogged. If you choose pawpaws, it’s best to plant at least two for cross-pollination, as they are not self-fertile. Other native fruit-bearing trees and shrubs that do well in shade include: Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) – A small native tree that tolerates partial shade and produces sweet, blueberry-like fruit. American Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) – This tree can handle some shade but fruits best with at least partial sun. It takes several years to begin producing fruit but is a hardy and rewarding choice. Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) – A shrub that thrives in moist, partly shaded areas and produces berries loved by both people and wildlife. Black Cherry (Prunus serotina) – A native tree that tolerates some shade and produces small, dark fruits that attract birds and can be used in jams and jellies. Here is a great resource from another Virginia master gardener unit that you can reference: https://fairfaxgardening.org/shade-fruits/ Let us know if you have any additional questions.
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Selecting grass for lawn
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Date Posted: Fri, Jan 31 - 3:46 pm
- Hello Richmond Master Gardeners, I would love your expertise on what type of grass I should plant in my backyard, which is almost entirely bare. I live in the Chamberlayne Farms neighborhood in Northern Henrico, and our soil is very soft. Our lot backs up to woods, and the back of our house faces north east, so we get very little sunlight back there. Thanks, Sam Prescott
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners for help with your yard. For lawns in our region, tall fescue is the best choice. Southern States offers a blend specifically formulated for shady areas, which may be a great option for you. We also highly recommend getting a soil test to better understand what your lawn needs to thrive. Soil test kits are available at many Richmond Public Library branches, and you can also check with the Henrico Master Gardeners for locations in your area. A soil test will provide valuable insights into any necessary amendments, such as adding lime or applying a starter fertilizer with the right balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For best results, fertilize just before seeding. When it comes to timing, fall is the best season for planting cool-season grasses like tall fescue. Once you've spread the seed, be sure to keep the soil consistently moist with light watering every day until germination, which typically takes about two weeks. For more detailed guidance, the Piedmont Master Gardeners have a fantastic article on growing turfgrass in central Virginia. You can check it out here: https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/22408-2/. If you need help selecting products, Southern States has knowledgeable associates who can assist you in choosing the right seed and fertilizers for your yard. If you're open to alternatives beyond grass, you might consider a woodland garden or a shade-friendly native plant landscape. These options can provide beauty, ecological benefits, and reduced maintenance compared to traditional lawns. There are many possibilities, from native ground covers to ferns, wildflowers, and understory shrubs. You can explore options in the Virginia Native Plant Society's regional native plant guide (https://vnps.org/virginia-native-plant-guides/), which provides recommendations suited to our local conditions. Henrico might also have Master Gardeners willing to come out for a home consult if this is an option you are interested in pursuing! Happy planting, and let us know if you have any other questions!
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Browning Dwarf Arborvitae
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Date Posted: Wed, Oct 11 - 12:47 am
- Dwarf Arborvitae has brown sections, on am effort to cut them out, it appears black underneath. What is happening? Thank you.
- I'm sorry you are having these concerns with your Dwarf Arborvitae. The first thing that comes to my mind is canker. Canker is infected wounds in the branches caused by fungi. Wounds can be caused by pruning, storm damage, cold damage, or excessive wetness. In plants with canker, you will observe yellow to reddish-brown branches in the middle of healthy green branches. Closer to base of the branch you may see slightly sunken, reddish cankers with profusely exuding resin. Black pustule-like fruiting bodies known as pycnidia may be seen breaking through the bark. There is no real treatment for canker stem diseases. The fungus survives in infected bark tissues, so it is best to prune all infected branches about 3-4 inches below the canker area. Spread of the fungus can be minimized by sterilizing any blades used between all cuts with a 10 percent bleach or 70 percent alcohol solution. Try to prevent damage to trees. Stressed and wounded plants are more likely to be infested. It is best to keep dwarf trees as open as possible so that they will dry out after rain. Prune to allow air flow in plants. Clean out leaves from the insides of shrubs. Do not bury plants too deep in mulch. Prune out infected branches and fertilize affected trees if needed. Good luck!!
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Ilex glabra-Inkberry
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Date Posted: Thu, Apr 20 - 8:37 pm
- We planted 5 ilex glabra bushes in October. One of them suddenly (within less than 12 hours) had it's leaves turn brown/black and fall off. The stalks and stems all seem fine, and it still has some leaves on one side. The other ones all seem fine, although they haven't grown much and have a few yellow/brown leaves. Do you know what happened and what we can do to protect the plants? Thank you!
- Hello there, Sorry to hear of your situation. Unfortunately, it's difficult to diagnosis from this distance. It could be soil, possibly chlorosis, maybe spider mites. First, I would contact the garden center where you purchased your plants. Often, plants are guaranteed for a year. So if you have proof of purchase I would definitely tell them about the condition of your shrubs, what they advise and what they can do for you. You could also check in with one of the Master Gardeners that man the help desks at the library branches. Check out your local library and find out what days and times the help desk is manned. It may still be difficult to diagnose without seeing the actual planting. Bring pictures and as much information about where the shrubs are situated. You can also get a kit for a soil test from the Master Gardeners, which may be helpful to ensure the future health of the 10 plants. There is also a plant clinic but again, I would start with the garden center where you made your purchase. And, of course, check in with a Master Gardener. They are a wonderful resource.
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Camellia Pruning
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Date Posted: Thu, Mar 02 - 4:57 pm
- We have a camelia bush in our front yard that is as old as our house. It’s probably 25 ft wide at its widest. It’s in desperate need of a trim, but I have no idea how to do that! I don’t want To harm the bush at all, but I know it needs to be trimmed. I can provide pictures if helpful!
- Hello there, so you have a very happy camellia on your hands. I'm going to guess it's a japanese camellia, flowering from mid-winter to early spring. The other popular variety is camellia sasanqua, which flowers in late summer, fall or early winter (depending on selection) and is generally smaller and looser than the japanese varieties. Either way you want to wait until after the plant blooms to prune (otherwise you'll miss the bloom period). Of course, if that isn't you uppermost concern and you just want to get it under control, then anytime can work. I'm attaching an article from Southern Living magazine that describes a pruning method I think will work for you. The method basically treats the shrub as a tree which would decrease your time and effort of trying to prune such a large plant back to shrub proportions. Here is the article. The last paragraph is the key. https://www.southernliving.com/garden/shrubs/when-to-prune-camellias As always use sharp clean pruners and pruning saws so disease isn't transferred to the new cuts you'll be making. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Native shrubs
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Date Posted: Mon, Jan 09 - 5:37 pm
- Hello, I am looking for a shrub to plant as a privacy screen. I will be planting along the south fence line of my property; however, the fence line itself is already planted with Chinese privet trees (ugh) that can't be removed, so anything I plant may get some shade from these trees. I'm looking for something 5-6 feet tall that will provide a sight barrier without getting too bushy (I don't want it to intrude too far into my yard). Native and/or pollinator-friendly would be a big plus! Any thoughts?
- Hello there, too bad about the privet but your planting will help to bring some pollinators and wildlife into your garden. The first shrub that comes to mind is inkberry (Ilex glabra). There are many varieties of this plant out there with different mature heights. So when shopping be very careful to read the tag and ask questions about the ultimate height and width of the plant you are choosing. The plant is evergreen and has small white flowers (not terribly noticeable) in spring that develop into small dark blue to black berries. Other native choices are mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia) and evergreen bayberry (Morella caroliniensis). Mountain laurel can grow to 12 feet or more but can also be pruned to control height and create a bushier shrub. It has beautiful blooms in spring and is evergreen. It does like some shade so maybe the privet will help with that. It does not like clay soil. Bayberry is also evergreen and can mature around 7-10 feet. It's not too particular about soils and can take shade. It has small flowers that develop into those waxy gray blue berries most people are familiar with. All these choices are native and will attract pollinators and wildlife. Best of luck with your project!
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Native plants
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Date Posted: Thu, Sep 15 - 9:44 pm
- I have an east-facing front yard in the Museum District and have approximately 12X 6 feet of space to work with. We recently got a retaining wall put in, and so it is a fresh canvas. The space gets full sun at least half the day. I love native plants, and particularly those that would remain evergreen in the winter. Any suggestions?
- Hello there, so nice to start fresh! I'm glad to hear you are interested in using native plants. I'm assuming the space is 12 feet wide and 6 feet deep. You'll probably want to start by creating some structure with shrubs. For evergreen green shrubs you could use inkberry (ilex glabra). There are many varieties of this plant, some have a loose form whiele others have a tighter globe shape and there are large and smaller sizes as well. So there's an inkberry to fit most spaces and styles. Mountain laurel is also another lovely evergreen plant with beautiful blooms in spring. Dog hobble or more commonly just Leucothoe (axillaris) is another nice evergreen. There is a variegated variety if you want to brighten up a space. You may also want to try evergreen bayberry (morella caroliniensis). In addition to these evergreens, there is virginia sweetspire (itea virginica) which has a nice drape to its shape, panicles of white flowers and beautiful fall color. Another good shrub is pepperbush (clethra alnifolia) with white to pink flowers (depending on variety) which is wonderfully fragrant. There is a smaller-sized variety that would fit in most gardens. Many of the plants in the blueberry family - early lowbush and deerberry (vaccinum pallida+vaccinum stamineum) have gorgeous fall color and colored bare stems in winter. Their spring flowers are delicate and beautiful and their fruits add to their appeal. I know you have a small space but I wanted to give a good number of options so you can pick and choose. Once you have a plan, you can decide what you want to place where. After placing the shrubs, you can then think about adding some lovely native ferns, perennials and/or ground cover, whatever space will allow. Before deciding on plants and placement, you should have a soil test done if you haven't already. You can amend if necessary and as an annual ritual, add compost to nourish you plantings. You can get a soil test kit at your local library when the Master Gardener Help Desk is in operation. Call your local library to find out the day and time. For additional information I suggest checking out this website and using the plant guides for the Capital region and NOVA-- https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives. Best of luck with the new garden!