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Declining Rose Bushes
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 20 - 12:18 am
- We have a row of drift roses out from for the last 8 years, last year once bush died totally after pruning and was replaced but two others appear to have dying branches in places but are blooming in others. Do you have any recommendations? They previously were huge and bloomed all summer.
- Thank you for reaching out about your drift roses. After 8 years, it’s not uncommon to see some decline in vigor, and the symptoms you’re describing (a bush dying after pruning, and others showing partial dieback while still blooming) may have several contributing factors. Possible Causes Age & Natural Decline: Drift roses, while hardy, often start to lose vigor after 7–10 years. Decline in individual plants can be expected over time. Pruning Stress: If roses are pruned too severely or at the wrong time (late fall/early winter), it can stress the plant and increase vulnerability to dieback. Canker or Dieback Disease: Fungal cankers can cause branches to brown and die back while other parts of the shrub continue to bloom. Look for discolored, sunken, or shriveled stems. Root Stress: After many years in the same spot, soil compaction, poor drainage, or root competition from nearby shrubs can weaken roses. Environmental Stress: Last winter’s cold snaps, summer drought, or inconsistent watering can also contribute. Recommendations Inspect the Canes: Cut into affected stems. If the wood inside is brown rather than green/white, prune those branches back to healthy tissue. Sterilize pruners between cuts (70% alcohol or 10% bleach solution). Monitor for Pests/Disease: Check for signs of fungal cankers, crown gall, or borers. Mulch & Soil Health: Refresh mulch to 2–3 inches (but keep away from the crown). Consider lightly amending with compost to improve soil structure and nutrients. Watering Practices: Provide consistent deep watering during dry spells, especially since stressed plants are more susceptible to disease. Rejuvenation Option: If more bushes continue declining, you may want to replace them gradually. Consider rotating in disease-resistant shrub roses or other flowering shrubs to diversify and reduce the chance of future loss. Since one plant has already died and others are showing decline, you may be at the natural replacement stage for part of the row. Healthy roses can last many years, but staggered replacement every few years can keep the planting full and vibrant.
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Preparing new garden beds for planting
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 15 - 10:50 pm
- I need to landscape front garden beds. what’s best to place on top of area for two months. Are tarps weighed down w/bricks okay? Arborist chips clean? I’m old so I want something easy/low maintenance. Planning on native perennials and grasses, a few shrubs/service berry.
- Thank you for your question! It sounds like you're off to a great start with a thoughtful plan for a low-maintenance, native landscape. Both of the options you suggested are great ideas for prepping your beds for planting. 1. Tarps: Yes, tarps weighed down with bricks or secured with lawn staples can work well to smother weeds and prevent new growth before planting. This method is known as "occultation." It’s easy, effective, and doesn't require much labor. Just make sure the tarp is opaque and tightly secured to prevent wind from getting underneath. I have personally had success with using black plastic and lawn staples, and am able to re-use the black plastic when I'm ready to expand the garden. 2. Arborist Wood Chips: Fresh arborist chips are also a great option, especially for a native planting. They help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and gradually improve soil as they break down. It’s fine to apply them now even if they’re “green” (fresh)—just keep them 3–6 inches deep and avoid piling them right against any existing stems or trunks. You can combine both methods too: tarp the area now, then remove the tarp and add arborist chips once you’re ready to plant. Native perennials, grasses, and a few shrubs like serviceberry are perfect choices for a low-maintenance, pollinator-friendly garden. Once established, they should need minimal watering and upkeep. Happy gardening!
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Pruning Oakleaf Hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Fri, Jul 11 - 12:54 am
- I have an oakleaf hydrangea that has grown too large for its spot in my yard here in Richmond. When is the best time to cut it back and should I cut its branches close to the trunk? Can it be encouraged to grow more vertically and not spread out horizontally?
- Thank you for your question about your oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)! I frequently walk past the ones Maymont has in their parking lot at the nature center and am always admiring how beautiful they are but they can indeed outgrow their space over time. Timing: The best time to prune oakleaf hydrangeas is shortly after they finish blooming, typically in late June through early August here in Richmond. These shrubs bloom on old wood, meaning they form next year’s flower buds on stems grown the previous year. Pruning in late summer or fall will likely remove those buds and reduce flowering the following year. How to prune: Avoid cutting branches all the way back to the trunk. Instead, remove about 1/3 of the oldest, thickest stems at the base to encourage new growth and improve shape. You can also shorten some of the remaining stems to reduce overall size and guide the shape—just make cuts back to a bud or side branch. Encouraging vertical growth: Oakleaf hydrangeas naturally have a broad, spreading habit. While you can’t dramatically change this growth pattern, you can encourage a more upright form by thinning out wide-angled branches and encouraging vertical shoots, selectively removing outward-growing stems to reduce width, and/or using light staking or support for young vertical stems if needed (though this is more effective in younger plants). If the space is truly too small for the mature size of your shrub, long-term, you might consider relocating it in the fall or early spring when it’s dormant. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Creating Privacy Screen with Natives
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 31 - 5:07 pm
- I am finally removing the Japanese privet and coral ardisia that has been growing along our wrap-around porch for 15+ years. What native trees or shrubs would be a good replacement? They'll be on the north side of the house in the shade of a large holly tree, and we'd like them to provide a visual block from a busy road.
- We love to hear that you are planning to plant more natives in your yard! Since your planting site is on the north side of the house and shaded by a large holly tree, the soil is likely to stay on the drier side due to root competition and limited rainfall reaching the ground. Here are some ideas of excellent natives that help create a screen to help get you started: Wax Myrtle (Morella cerifera): will create a nice evergreen hedge which might be appropriate for the first 10 feet of the screen. Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana): this will create a fairly dense privacy screen. There are dwarf varieties available so you don’t have to contend with the potential of 40 ft tall screen. You could also consider incorporating some flowering plants along the line of evergreens , or plant in front of the hedge: Chickasaw Plum (Prunus angustifolia): A non deciduous small tree that would add color and fruit for wildlife. Coastal Plain Service-berry (Amelanchier obovalis): A multiple-trunk tree or shrub, 12 to 25 feet tall. I would also recommend taking a look over these resources, as they may help you pick out plants that are better suited for your particular space and preferences: Plant RVA Natives: https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives Virginia Native Plant Society: https://vnps.org/ Digital Atlas of the Virginia Flora: https://vaplantatlas.org/
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Finding Natives for a tough spot
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 17 - 4:33 pm
- Hello! We have a particularly difficult section of our garden in Richmond: it's a sloped spot between the driveway and the house, faces south, has pretty lousy soil, and is shaded by nearby oak tree. The only thing that we've been able to grow there is rosemary; everything else we've tried hasn't made it. Are there any native perennials that might survive?
- That sounds like a tricky spot, but there are some native perennials that could thrive in those conditions! Given that the area is south-facing but shaded, has poor soil, and is on a slope, you'll need plants that are drought-tolerant, shade-tolerant, and able to handle soil erosion. Here are some great Virginia native perennials that might work: Low-Maintenance Shrubs American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) – Handles some shade and poor soil, and has striking purple berries in fall. Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) – Tolerates shade and provides late fall yellow blooms. Perennials for Shade & Dry Conditions Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) – A beautiful, drought-tolerant flower that does well in partial shade. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) – A tough native with lovely pinkish-purple flowers in spring. Golden Ragwort (Packera aurea) – Great for erosion control and pollinators, with bright yellow flowers in spring. Ornamental Grasses (For Texture & Erosion Control) Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Drought-tolerant and provides great fall color. (A favorite of mine!) Bottlebrush Grass (Elymus hystrix) – A native grass that thrives in dry shade. Since rosemary has survived, that suggests it’s well-drained soil, possibly a bit alkaline due to the concrete driveway. You may need to amend the soil with compost to help native plants establish, but once they do, they should require little maintenance.
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Connecting with RVA Master Gardeners
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Date Posted: Sat, Feb 22 - 12:22 am
- I am the volunteer coordinator for Powhatan State Park in Powhatan, VA. We are hosting a volunteer event on March 8th where we will be planting up to 900 shrubs in the park to make wildlife corridor. I was hoping to get in touch with some of the RVA master gardeners so that they can distribute the information about this event among their members.
- Hello! Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! I will follow up with you by email.
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Fruit trees for shade
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 12 - 1:52 am
- Hello! We have an empty corner in our yard that I'd like to fill with a fruit-bearing tree. This side of the house is north-facing and has several tall oaks creating lots of shade. Would a pawpaw work in this environment? Do you have other native tree suggestions? Thanks!
- Hello! A pawpaw tree (Asimina triloba) could be a great option for your north-facing yard with shade from tall oaks. Pawpaws are native understory trees, meaning they naturally grow in forested environments with limited sunlight. They can thrive in partial shade, but for the best fruit production, they benefit from a few hours of dappled sunlight. In deep shade, they may grow more slowly and produce less fruit. We want to point out that pawpaws prefer moist, well-drained soil. In nature, they are often found in fertile bottomlands, along riverbanks, and in the understory of hardwood forests, where the soil retains moisture but does not stay waterlogged. If you choose pawpaws, it’s best to plant at least two for cross-pollination, as they are not self-fertile. Other native fruit-bearing trees and shrubs that do well in shade include: Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) – A small native tree that tolerates partial shade and produces sweet, blueberry-like fruit. American Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) – This tree can handle some shade but fruits best with at least partial sun. It takes several years to begin producing fruit but is a hardy and rewarding choice. Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) – A shrub that thrives in moist, partly shaded areas and produces berries loved by both people and wildlife. Black Cherry (Prunus serotina) – A native tree that tolerates some shade and produces small, dark fruits that attract birds and can be used in jams and jellies. Here is a great resource from another Virginia master gardener unit that you can reference: https://fairfaxgardening.org/shade-fruits/ Let us know if you have any additional questions.
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Selecting grass for lawn
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Date Posted: Fri, Jan 31 - 3:46 pm
- Hello Richmond Master Gardeners, I would love your expertise on what type of grass I should plant in my backyard, which is almost entirely bare. I live in the Chamberlayne Farms neighborhood in Northern Henrico, and our soil is very soft. Our lot backs up to woods, and the back of our house faces north east, so we get very little sunlight back there. Thanks, Sam Prescott
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners for help with your yard. For lawns in our region, tall fescue is the best choice. Southern States offers a blend specifically formulated for shady areas, which may be a great option for you. We also highly recommend getting a soil test to better understand what your lawn needs to thrive. Soil test kits are available at many Richmond Public Library branches, and you can also check with the Henrico Master Gardeners for locations in your area. A soil test will provide valuable insights into any necessary amendments, such as adding lime or applying a starter fertilizer with the right balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For best results, fertilize just before seeding. When it comes to timing, fall is the best season for planting cool-season grasses like tall fescue. Once you've spread the seed, be sure to keep the soil consistently moist with light watering every day until germination, which typically takes about two weeks. For more detailed guidance, the Piedmont Master Gardeners have a fantastic article on growing turfgrass in central Virginia. You can check it out here: https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/22408-2/. If you need help selecting products, Southern States has knowledgeable associates who can assist you in choosing the right seed and fertilizers for your yard. If you're open to alternatives beyond grass, you might consider a woodland garden or a shade-friendly native plant landscape. These options can provide beauty, ecological benefits, and reduced maintenance compared to traditional lawns. There are many possibilities, from native ground covers to ferns, wildflowers, and understory shrubs. You can explore options in the Virginia Native Plant Society's regional native plant guide (https://vnps.org/virginia-native-plant-guides/), which provides recommendations suited to our local conditions. Henrico might also have Master Gardeners willing to come out for a home consult if this is an option you are interested in pursuing! Happy planting, and let us know if you have any other questions!
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Browning Dwarf Arborvitae
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Date Posted: Wed, Oct 11 - 12:47 am
- Dwarf Arborvitae has brown sections, on am effort to cut them out, it appears black underneath. What is happening? Thank you.
- I'm sorry you are having these concerns with your Dwarf Arborvitae. The first thing that comes to my mind is canker. Canker is infected wounds in the branches caused by fungi. Wounds can be caused by pruning, storm damage, cold damage, or excessive wetness. In plants with canker, you will observe yellow to reddish-brown branches in the middle of healthy green branches. Closer to base of the branch you may see slightly sunken, reddish cankers with profusely exuding resin. Black pustule-like fruiting bodies known as pycnidia may be seen breaking through the bark. There is no real treatment for canker stem diseases. The fungus survives in infected bark tissues, so it is best to prune all infected branches about 3-4 inches below the canker area. Spread of the fungus can be minimized by sterilizing any blades used between all cuts with a 10 percent bleach or 70 percent alcohol solution. Try to prevent damage to trees. Stressed and wounded plants are more likely to be infested. It is best to keep dwarf trees as open as possible so that they will dry out after rain. Prune to allow air flow in plants. Clean out leaves from the insides of shrubs. Do not bury plants too deep in mulch. Prune out infected branches and fertilize affected trees if needed. Good luck!!
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Ilex glabra-Inkberry
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Date Posted: Thu, Apr 20 - 8:37 pm
- We planted 5 ilex glabra bushes in October. One of them suddenly (within less than 12 hours) had it's leaves turn brown/black and fall off. The stalks and stems all seem fine, and it still has some leaves on one side. The other ones all seem fine, although they haven't grown much and have a few yellow/brown leaves. Do you know what happened and what we can do to protect the plants? Thank you!
- Hello there, Sorry to hear of your situation. Unfortunately, it's difficult to diagnosis from this distance. It could be soil, possibly chlorosis, maybe spider mites. First, I would contact the garden center where you purchased your plants. Often, plants are guaranteed for a year. So if you have proof of purchase I would definitely tell them about the condition of your shrubs, what they advise and what they can do for you. You could also check in with one of the Master Gardeners that man the help desks at the library branches. Check out your local library and find out what days and times the help desk is manned. It may still be difficult to diagnose without seeing the actual planting. Bring pictures and as much information about where the shrubs are situated. You can also get a kit for a soil test from the Master Gardeners, which may be helpful to ensure the future health of the 10 plants. There is also a plant clinic but again, I would start with the garden center where you made your purchase. And, of course, check in with a Master Gardener. They are a wonderful resource.