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Rhododendron Questions
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Date Posted: Thu, May 08 - 11:14 pm
- I have an established rhododendron and a couple of questions 1. Some leaves tern yellow and die and fall off 2. Others show yellowing but remain 3. New shoots form at the base but die never to mature 4 is there any way to encourage new growth on the old branches
- Thanks for reaching out with your rhododendron questions! You’ve made some great observations, and your plant is definitely trying to tell you something. Here are a few possible explanations and tips based on what you described: Yellowing and Leaf Drop: Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal, especially for older inner leaves. However, widespread or early-season yellowing in Richmond can also point to stress from heat or underlying root issues, particularly since rhododendrons are naturally cool-climate, understory plants. Our warm springs and hot summers can make them more susceptible to systemic diseases or environmental stress. Persistent Yellow Leaves: This could be a sign of sun stress—rhododendrons prefer morning sun with dappled afternoon shade. Too much direct, hot afternoon sun can cause the kind of yellowing you're seeing. Poor drainage or soil that’s too alkaline can also cause nutrient uptake issues, leading to chlorosis (leaf yellowing). New Shoots Dying Back: When new shoots at the base fail to mature, it often points to root zone stress, such as poor drainage, fungal root diseases, or heat stress. Check that mulch isn't piled too high against the base and that the soil is staying moist but not soggy. Encouraging New Growth on Old Branches: Yes! Light pruning in early spring, just after flowering, can stimulate new growth. Avoid heavy pruning all at once; instead, gradually thin out leggy or unproductive branches over time. Make cuts just above a healthy bud or leaf whorl to encourage branching. Good luck with your rhododendron!
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Converting Lawn to natives
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 26 - 9:39 pm
- I saw in some other responses that the Master Gardener applications started last September and have since closed. Could I be added to the list to receive information when it becomes available again?! I was also curious if y'all had any suggestions for building a grass yard with native grasses and fewer 'weeds.' Would poverty grass be an option? I rent currently, but I don't want that to stop us from building a home that supports native biodiversity!! Thank you so much! :)
- Thanks so much for reaching out—and big kudos to you for wanting to support native biodiversity, even as a renter. Creating a lawn or greenspace with native grasses is a fantastic way to help pollinators, improve soil health, and reduce maintenance and chemical inputs. You're right to consider poverty oatgrass (Danthonia spicata)—it’s a great native grass for our region! It’s clump-forming, drought-tolerant, and performs well in poor soils, which makes it an excellent choice for naturalized lawn areas. However, it doesn’t behave quite like traditional turf—it grows in tufts, so you may want to pair it with other species for fuller coverage. While none of these will act quite like turf grass, here are a couple of others you could consider: Virginia Wildrye (Elymus virginicus) – Grows well in part shade and moist soils. Tolerates mowing, though it’s bunch-forming. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Gorgeous color and structure, though not turf-like. Best for meadows and border plantings. I love mixing this one into flower beds for beautiful color pops! Purpletop (Tridens flavus) – Soft and airy with a lovely purple seed head; adds diversity and texture. River Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) – A beautiful grass for partly shaded areas, but it can spread aggressively. Personally, I love growing this grass in pots and listening to the oats rustle in the wind! (That being said, another great way to add more natives, especially as a renter is to grow them in pots!) This one will be much stalkier than normal turf grass. For a lawn substitute, you could also consider Carex species (native sedges), which resemble turf when mowed and tolerate partial shade: carex crinita and carex vulpinoidea are a couple that typically do well in our area. Hope this helps get you on the path you are looking to be on! And I'll send you an email to follow up about being on the list for information about our next class!
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Growing Elderberries
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 12 - 12:43 pm
- Hello! I was just gifted a native elderberry and I'm looking for some advice. I also plan to get another one so they can bear fruit. I've been watching tons of videos but they all seem contradictory! I live in Richmond (Battery Park) with an urban yard - it's a bit bigger than typical row house size, and bordered by a shared fence on each side. I have a few areas to plant the elderberry where it will get at least 8 hours of full sun a day. My concern is that I want to keep the bush somewhat contained - I know they can grow quite large, but is there a way to prune it so it stays under 7-8 feet but still bears fruit? And, do you have any advice on how to stay on top of root suckers? I'm not sure how far the suckers will travel, but if they head into my neighbors yard I obviously wouldn't be able to see the sprout to know where to cut the root. I also heard the roots are quite hardy, so I'm trying to consider whether to plant near a retaining wall. In the videos I'm watching the plants all seem pretty naturally contained (versus something like blackberry which gets out of control), but I want to do everything I can to help out. Hoping I can make this work! I appreciate any advice you have. If helpful, I can send a photo of my backyard. Thank you, Julie
- What a lovely gift! I hope this will be something you are able to enjoy for years to come. And you are right! You will need a second one for cross pollination. We don't typically think of elderberries being wildly invasive, so I'd expect with your awareness of the need to keep an eye out for suckers, and your desire to prune it to keep it at a reasonable size, you will be pleased with your elderberry. A couple of pruning tips: Once the plant is established (after year 1 or 2), you can cut back about 1/3 of the oldest stems to the ground each year to encourage new growth. To keep overall height in check, you can also cut the remaining stems back to your desired height (just above strong buds). Many gardeners cut stems to about 3–4 feet in early spring, which results in a bush that finishes around 6–8 feet tall by summer. Managing suckers: You’re right—elderberries do sucker from the roots and can spread over time, though they are usually less aggressive than blackberries. The suckers typically emerge within a few feet of the main plant, though they can travel farther in ideal conditions. To manage them, check around the base of the plant regularly during the growing season and cut suckers at the soil line or dig back to the root and clip at the source. You might also consider planting your elderberries in a root barrier ring—digging a trench and installing landscape edging 12–18" deep around the planting area to contain the roots. Planting near a retaining wall: Elderberry roots aren’t known for damaging structures like a retaining wall, but they are persistent. If you're concerned about suckers creeping into a neighbor’s yard or through shared fences, planting 3–5 feet away from those boundaries is a good buffer. That space also makes it easier to walk around the plant and manage pruning or harvesting. Hope this helps as you decide where to plant! Best of luck to you! Hope you will enjoy your elderberries for years to come.
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Creating Privacy Screen with Natives
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 31 - 5:07 pm
- I am finally removing the Japanese privet and coral ardisia that has been growing along our wrap-around porch for 15+ years. What native trees or shrubs would be a good replacement? They'll be on the north side of the house in the shade of a large holly tree, and we'd like them to provide a visual block from a busy road.
- We love to hear that you are planning to plant more natives in your yard! Since your planting site is on the north side of the house and shaded by a large holly tree, the soil is likely to stay on the drier side due to root competition and limited rainfall reaching the ground. Here are some ideas of excellent natives that help create a screen to help get you started: Wax Myrtle (Morella cerifera): will create a nice evergreen hedge which might be appropriate for the first 10 feet of the screen. Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana): this will create a fairly dense privacy screen. There are dwarf varieties available so you don’t have to contend with the potential of 40 ft tall screen. You could also consider incorporating some flowering plants along the line of evergreens , or plant in front of the hedge: Chickasaw Plum (Prunus angustifolia): A non deciduous small tree that would add color and fruit for wildlife. Coastal Plain Service-berry (Amelanchier obovalis): A multiple-trunk tree or shrub, 12 to 25 feet tall. I would also recommend taking a look over these resources, as they may help you pick out plants that are better suited for your particular space and preferences: Plant RVA Natives: https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives Virginia Native Plant Society: https://vnps.org/ Digital Atlas of the Virginia Flora: https://vaplantatlas.org/
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Growing Tulips
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Date Posted: Fri, Mar 21 - 1:01 am
- I have a beautiful pre-planted set of tulips that I would like to plant in my garden. I am wondering if I should put them in a pot or plant them in the ground. What are the ideal soil conditions, watering regimen, and how much sunlight should they get? My front yard gets great partial sun and my backyard gets full sun. Thank you in advance for your help!
- Tulips are beautiful! What a great addition to your garden! Here are some tips to give your tulips the best chance of thriving, whether you choose a pot or in-ground planting. Planting in a Pot or in the Ground? Pot: Great if you want to control soil conditions and move them around for optimal light. Just make sure it has good drainage. Ground: Ideal for long-term growth, although some tulips may not return year after year in Virginia’s warm climate due to the lack of a cold dormancy period. If you want to replant them for future years, the ground is best. If you just want them for this season and might replace them next year, a pot is a great choice. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by pre-planted, but if they are already in a pot, I would leave them there for now and let them bloom. The ideal time to plant tulip bulbs is in the fall, generally late October to early December. They have a tendency to rot in warm, wet conditions. Ideal Soil Conditions: Tulips hate wet feet and need well-draining soil. To achieve this, it is best to amend heavy clay with sand or compost in order to improve drainage. They also like slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0–7.0). (You could pick up a soil test kit from one of the Richmond libraries to find out what your pH is!). Watering Needs: Water well after planting to help them establish roots. During growth, only water if the soil is very dry - tulips prefer dry conditions between watering. After blooming, reduce watering as the the foliage dies back to prevent bulb rot. Sunlight Requirements: Full sun (backyard) is ideal, especially for strong blooms next year. Partial sun (front yard) is okay, but tulips bloom better with at least 6 hours of direct sun. If you plant in a pot, you can move them to maximize sunlight exposure. Extra Tips: If you want them to return next year, wait until the leaves completely yellow and die back before cutting them—this allows energy to return to the bulb. Tulips sometimes don’t rebloom well in warm climates like Virginia, so many gardeners treat them as annuals and replant fresh bulbs each fall. The variety you select can have a big impact on this. Choose good quality, large bulbs with a reputation for dependability. Consider Darwin, Triumph or Emperor varieties. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Finding Natives for a tough spot
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 17 - 4:33 pm
- Hello! We have a particularly difficult section of our garden in Richmond: it's a sloped spot between the driveway and the house, faces south, has pretty lousy soil, and is shaded by nearby oak tree. The only thing that we've been able to grow there is rosemary; everything else we've tried hasn't made it. Are there any native perennials that might survive?
- That sounds like a tricky spot, but there are some native perennials that could thrive in those conditions! Given that the area is south-facing but shaded, has poor soil, and is on a slope, you'll need plants that are drought-tolerant, shade-tolerant, and able to handle soil erosion. Here are some great Virginia native perennials that might work: Low-Maintenance Shrubs American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) – Handles some shade and poor soil, and has striking purple berries in fall. Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) – Tolerates shade and provides late fall yellow blooms. Perennials for Shade & Dry Conditions Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) – A beautiful, drought-tolerant flower that does well in partial shade. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) – A tough native with lovely pinkish-purple flowers in spring. Golden Ragwort (Packera aurea) – Great for erosion control and pollinators, with bright yellow flowers in spring. Ornamental Grasses (For Texture & Erosion Control) Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Drought-tolerant and provides great fall color. (A favorite of mine!) Bottlebrush Grass (Elymus hystrix) – A native grass that thrives in dry shade. Since rosemary has survived, that suggests it’s well-drained soil, possibly a bit alkaline due to the concrete driveway. You may need to amend the soil with compost to help native plants establish, but once they do, they should require little maintenance.
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Soil Testing
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 17 - 4:26 pm
- Can I bring a sample of my yard soil to the Extension office to be tested for heavy metals, etc.?
- This is a great question! Soil Test Kits are provided by the extension office and the Master Gardeners distribute them to the Richmond Public Libraries. We actually just got some in that we will be distributing this week! Each kit provides instructions for collecting and submitting the samples. Results are then emailed to you, typically within 3 working days of receipt. The routine test package includes soil pH,P,K,Ca,Mg,Zn,Mn,Cu,Fe,B, and estimated CEC, plus a fertilizer and lime recommendation. Testing for soluble salts and organic matter is also available. If you are looking for a way to test for the toxic heavy metals or metals related to pollution issues, send us an email at rvamastergardeners@gmail.com For this type of testing, Virginia Tech recommends connecting with your local extension agent. The City of Richmond has been without an extension agent for several years now, but we will try to get you connected to the appropriate people if this is the type of testing you are looking for.
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Wildflower Seedballs
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Date Posted: Fri, Mar 14 - 12:46 pm
- My club, at VCU will be hosting a seed ball making event next week Monday! We were hoping to use wildflowers and other small foliage that should grow with wildflowers native to the capital region. could you share knowledge or knowledge of resources with us? Maybe where we could acquire seeds for cheap/nothing as well as tips on how to go about planting the seed balls?
- Hosting a seed ball-making event is a fantastic initiative to promote native wildflowers and support local ecosystems in the Richmond area. Here's some guidance to help your club prepare: 1. Selecting Native Wildflower Seeds: Choosing species native to Virginia ensures that the plants are well-adapted to the local environment and provide optimal benefits to pollinators and other wildlife. Consider incorporating the following native wildflowers into your seed balls: Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa): A perennial that serves as a host plant for monarch butterflies and blooms from April to September. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta): A versatile plant that can be annual, biennial, or perennial, attracting birds like the American goldfinch and blooming between June and October. Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa): This perennial attracts butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds, with blooms from June to September. Smooth Blue Aster (Symphyotrichum laeve): A perennial that serves as a host plant for the pearl crescent butterfly, blooming from August to October. 2. Acquiring Seeds at Low or No Cost: Virginia Native Pollinator Seed Packets: The Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources offers seed packets containing native wildflowers suitable for various regions in Virginia. These mixes are designed to benefit pollinators and enhance local biodiversity. Seed Libraries: In the fall, the Master Gardeners collected many native seeds from the Amelia Street Urban Forest and shared them in the seed library at the Main Branch Richmond Public Library. I haven't checked back recently, but you are welcome to use whatever is left there! There are many other seed libraries around the city, some may have wildflower seeds in them VCU Office of sustainability: If you are not already connected with them, they would potentially be a good resource for helping you source free or low cost seeds. 3. Tips for Making and Planting Seed Balls: This website has two great recipes for making seed balls, one using paper as a base, and the other using soil and flour: https://chicagocommunitygardens.org/2020/04/22/for-earth-day-or-any-day-make-a-seed-bomb/ For planting tips, this will ultimately depend on what seeds you end up getting. Some seeds do best getting planted in the fall in order to go through a cold stratification. And others will be successful if planted this spring. Seed balls can be placed on soil just before rain and the precipitation will help distribute them into the soil and aid in germination. 4. Additional Resources: Plant Virginia Natives (pantvirginianatives.org): This initiative provides comprehensive information on native plants, including where to purchase them and guidance on creating pollinator-friendly habitats. Keep Virginia Beautiful (keepvirginiabeautiful.org): This organization offers resources and initiatives aimed at enhancing Virginia's natural and scenic environment, including distributing wildflower seed packets to promote beautification and support pollinators. Good luck with your seed ball making event! We will keep an eye out around the city for more native flowers to pop up :)
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Growing Herbs
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 03 - 11:09 pm
- How to grow healthy Herb plant? Plants like Basil, cilantro, Rosemarys.
- Growing herbs is so rewarding! I love having what I need for a recipe growing outside the back door! Basil, cilantro, and rosemary each have their own needs, so here’s a quick guide to help them thrive: Basil: Loves warmth and the sun and needs at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, prefers well-draining, nutrient-rich soil, keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy — water when the top inch feels dry, pinch off the top leaves regularly to encourage bushy growth and prevent flowering (which can make the leaves bitter), snip stems just above a leaf pair — this helps the plant grow fuller. Cilantro: Prefers cooler weather and about 4–6 hours of sun, this is a great spring and fall plant but typically doesn't survive in Virginia summers, too much heat can make it bolt (flower) quickly, likes loose, well-drained soil with some compost mixed in, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogging, cilantro grows fast — consider planting seeds every few weeks for a continuous harvest. Rosemary: Thrives with at least 6–8 hours of full sun, prefers sandy, well-drained soil — it hates sitting in water, let the soil dry out between waterings. Rosemary prefers to stay on the drier side, trim regularly to keep the shape and encourage new growth, there is a lot of Rosemary in our area that survives the winter, but its not a big fan of winter and does best if its in a warm sunny spot or you could bring it inside for the winter. Happy gardening! Enjoy your herbs!
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Gardening Basics
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 03 - 11:00 pm
- Learn basics of gardening
- It’s wonderful to hear that you’re interested in learning more about gardening! Starting out can feel a bit overwhelming, but with the right resources and a little patience, it can be incredibly rewarding. Here are a few first steps and resources to help you get started: 1. Understand Your Growing Zone: Knowing your USDA Hardiness Zone will help you choose the right plants for your area. The City of Richmond and nearby areas are in the 7b zone. (If you are outside of the city you can find your zone here by entering your zip code: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov) 2. Start Small: Consider beginning with a small garden bed, container garden, or even a few pots on a patio. Herbs, lettuce, and tomatoes are great starter plants! 3. Soil Health is Key: Good gardening starts with good soil. We always recommend getting a soil test to help understand what amendments you might need. Soil test kits are provided by the Master Gardeners through the Extension Office at many of the Richmond Public Libraries. 4. The Extension office has a lot of resources available through their website https://ext.vt.edu/lawn-garden.html and also by following their social media accounts @virginia_cooperative_extension 5. There are many gardening classes offered throughout the greater Richmond area, especially as spring arrives. You can look for classes at our local nurseries like Sneeds, Strange's and many others. Also, Lewis Ginter often has many gardening classes. 6. One of my favorite vegetable gardening books is "Grow Great Vegetables in Virginia" by Ida Wallace. This book is specific to our area and offers a lot of great step by step guidance for each month. Gardening is a rewarding hobby that helps you connect with nature, reduce stress, and enjoy the satisfaction of watching things grow. Whether you’re growing flowers, vegetables, or herbs, it brings beauty, peace, and a sense of accomplishment. I always think of it as an experiment too. Each year I learn things that worked well, as well as things that didn't. Good luck, and have fun!