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Hydrangea identification & tips

    Date Posted: Fri, Oct 31 - 10:02 am

    Question

  • Any idea what kind of hydrangea this might be? It was in the garden when we moved in. Maybe the first year a couple of pinkish blooms but last year nothing In particular any suggestions for pruning would be appreciated

    • Answer

  • Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners and for including the picture! From your description and photo, we think your hydrangea is most likely a Hydrangea macrophylla (French hydrangea). French hydrangeas are deciduous shrubs known for their rounded clusters of pink, blue, or purple flowers. And it sounds like your plant is still young, which can explain the limited blooming so far — these shrubs often take a few seasons to establish before flowering reliably. Here are a few tips about pruning to help improve your blooms: Hydrangea macrophylla blooms on old wood, meaning next year’s flowers form on stems that grew this year. Because of that, pruning at the wrong time can remove potential flower buds. Only prune right after the plant finishes blooming (early to mid-summer). Avoid pruning in fall, winter, or spring, as this will remove next season’s buds. When pruning, remove only dead, damaged, or very weak stems, and lightly shape the plant to improve airflow. Older, woody stems can be cut back at the base every few years to encourage new growth. A few other things to note about these hydrangeas: They prefer partial sun — ideally morning sunlight with afternoon shade. They like moist but well-drained soil rich in organic matter. You can add compost to improve texture and moisture retention. They should be kept evenly moist during dry periods, especially in hot weather. If your soil is naturally acidic, you may also notice the flower color shift toward blue; in more alkaline soil, blooms stay pink. We hope these tips will help you see more blooms in the years to come!

Growing a Winter vegetable garden

    Date Posted: Tue, Oct 28 - 10:21 am

    Question

  • I have a raised garden bed, 4 ft by 8 ft, that is in a very sheltered location with good winter sunlight. I'd like to grow as much food as I can in that bed this winter. I'm open to adding a greenhouse cover of sorts if that would help, as well as mulching around the sides of the bed to keep the soil warm. what plants would you suggest?

    • Answer

  • Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. It sounds like you’ve got a great setup for a productive winter garden — a raised bed with good winter sun and some shelter gives you lots of options, especially here in Richmond’s climate. With a little protection, you can keep fresh greens and roots growing all season long. We recommend focusing on cool-weather crops that tolerate frost and even improve in flavor after a chill. These include: Leafy greens: spinach, kale, collards, Swiss chard, mustard greens, and arugula Salad mixes: lettuce (especially cold-hardy romaine, butterhead, and oakleaf types), endive, and tatsoi. Root crops: carrots, beets, turnips, and radishes. Alliums: scallions and garlic (if not already planted, you can still get garlic in soon). Herbs: parsley, cilantro, and chives can survive with a little protection. A few tips to help extend your growing season: Since your bed gets good sunlight, a simple greenhouse cover or low tunnel can make a big difference. You can use PVC hoops and clear plastic sheeting to create a mini greenhouse, just be sure to open it during sunny days to prevent overheating. For added insulation, layer frost cloth (row cover) underneath the plastic on the coldest nights. You can also consider mulching the sides and soil with straw, shredded leaves, or pine needles to hold warmth and protect roots. Best of luck to you! I've also decided to grow some cool weather crops this year and have been really enjoying all of the greens my garden has been producing so far! We hope you have lots of success!

Fall Native Seed Sowing

    Date Posted: Tue, Oct 21 - 12:33 am

    Question

  • I am getting ready to sow native flower seeds. I plan on just casting them on soil (blanket flower, tickseed sunflower, cardinal flower, salvia, turtlehead and coneflower) I have some heavily mulched areas and understand I should rake that back so they contact the dirt and rake it back in the spring. I also have a lot of trees and wonder if it's ok if seeds are covered w leaves, or should I wait until all of the leaves fall and clear the area as I would the mulch? Thank you!

    • Answer

  • Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! Those are all wonderful native choices that benefit from being sown now so they can go through a natural winter cold stratification period. You’re also correct that good seed-to-soil contact is key for germination. Here’s how to approach each situation: Mulched areas: Yes — rake the mulch back before sowing so the seeds can fall directly onto the soil. After seeding, gently press them in (you can even walk over the area) so they make contact with the soil surface. Leave the mulch off for winter and rake it lightly back in the spring after seedlings start to emerge and you can see where they’ve sprouted. Leaf-covered areas: A thin layer of leaves is fine — it can even help protect seeds from washing away and mimic natural forest duff. However, a heavy mat of leaves (especially large, flat ones like oak or maple) can smother seeds and block light in spring. If you have thick leaf cover, wait until most have fallen, then lightly clear the area before sowing or thin the layer to about an inch so seeds can still reach the soil and get some light and moisture. Good luck! We hope you have lots of success!

Native Plants - best time to transplant

    Date Posted: Wed, Sep 10 - 8:08 pm

    Question

  • Hello! I have several native plants and two small elderberries that I need to transplant to different spots in my yard. Is there an ideal time to do this? I heard something about "fall" being a good time, but not sure when exactly that means? Thank you!

    • Answer

  • Good afternoon! Thank you for your question. What you have heard is exactly correct - Fall is the best time to transplant your natives, as well as your two elderberries. I would recommend anytime in October when temperatures are cooler. Be sure and add some amendments to the soil such as a good leaf compost which can be purchased at a local garden center, and water the plants well after transplanting. Thanks for reaching out!

Declining Rose Bushes

    Date Posted: Wed, Aug 20 - 12:18 am

    Question

  • We have a row of drift roses out from for the last 8 years, last year once bush died totally after pruning and was replaced but two others appear to have dying branches in places but are blooming in others. Do you have any recommendations? They previously were huge and bloomed all summer.

    • Answer

  • Thank you for reaching out about your drift roses. After 8 years, it’s not uncommon to see some decline in vigor, and the symptoms you’re describing (a bush dying after pruning, and others showing partial dieback while still blooming) may have several contributing factors. Possible Causes Age & Natural Decline: Drift roses, while hardy, often start to lose vigor after 7–10 years. Decline in individual plants can be expected over time. Pruning Stress: If roses are pruned too severely or at the wrong time (late fall/early winter), it can stress the plant and increase vulnerability to dieback. Canker or Dieback Disease: Fungal cankers can cause branches to brown and die back while other parts of the shrub continue to bloom. Look for discolored, sunken, or shriveled stems. Root Stress: After many years in the same spot, soil compaction, poor drainage, or root competition from nearby shrubs can weaken roses. Environmental Stress: Last winter’s cold snaps, summer drought, or inconsistent watering can also contribute. Recommendations Inspect the Canes: Cut into affected stems. If the wood inside is brown rather than green/white, prune those branches back to healthy tissue. Sterilize pruners between cuts (70% alcohol or 10% bleach solution). Monitor for Pests/Disease: Check for signs of fungal cankers, crown gall, or borers. Mulch & Soil Health: Refresh mulch to 2–3 inches (but keep away from the crown). Consider lightly amending with compost to improve soil structure and nutrients. Watering Practices: Provide consistent deep watering during dry spells, especially since stressed plants are more susceptible to disease. Rejuvenation Option: If more bushes continue declining, you may want to replace them gradually. Consider rotating in disease-resistant shrub roses or other flowering shrubs to diversify and reduce the chance of future loss. Since one plant has already died and others are showing decline, you may be at the natural replacement stage for part of the row. Healthy roses can last many years, but staggered replacement every few years can keep the planting full and vibrant.

Why is my swamp milkweed dying?

    Date Posted: Thu, Aug 14 - 11:54 pm

    Question

  • I have an established butterfly bush and swamp milkweed plant in my yard. They’re both around 3ft tall. This year, both plants began dying fast. We haven’t dumped anything there, nothing changed as far as plants, soil, drainage, etc. with one exception. Three years ago we planted some Blue Mistflower. It never came up until this year. It is climbing the dead butterfly bush. I’ve read Blue Mistflower spreads via rhizomes and that this could potentially be the cause. Any thoughts? Other things I should check? Thanks!

    • Answer

  • Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! I've connected with one of our gardeners, Pam, that has a wealth of knowledge on native plants to help give you some guidance. There has been a lot of chatter in the Virginia Native Plant Society Facebook group that this has been a banner year for milkweed aphids. Swamp milkweed seems particularly susceptible to this aphid, and you truly have “a” plant (singular), it becomes the sole target for the aphids. The aphids submit a dew that causes a fungus. Unfortunately, the picture doesn’t show the milkweed clearly enough for this to be more than a guess, but we think it’s a reasonable possibility. We wouldn’t blame the blue mist flower. Yes, it’s hardy and loves to spread, but it’s a valuable late-season food source for pollinators. We recommend planting a different companion for it. You did not mention you soil or light conditions, but the Plant RVA Natives guide (download free at vnps.org) will help identify companion plants that can hold their own with an enthusiastic spreader. Pycnanthemum muticum, clustered mountain mint, might be a possibility, and it blooms much earlier, spreading the glory. Since butterfly bush is designated invasive in Virginia, we can’t ethically recommend trying to save it or replacing it with another. But its loss provides an opportunity to plant more natives. If you have additional questions about natives, Pam will be at the West End Branch of the Richmond Public Library on Wednesday afternoons after Labor Day. You are welcome to stop in and chat with her more!

Transplanting a peach tree

    Date Posted: Thu, Aug 14 - 5:34 pm

    Question

  • I need to transplant this peach tree but know next to nothing about when/how/where. Would love advice!

    • Answer

  • Thank you for reaching out! Peach trees can grow successfully in the Richmond area when given the right conditions and care. Since your tree is currently in a pot, here are some steps and tips to guide you through transplanting it into the ground: Best Time to Transplant Late fall to early spring (after leaf drop but before buds swell) is ideal. In Richmond, that’s typically November through March when the tree is dormant. This reduces stress and gives roots time to establish before summer heat. Choosing a Planting Site: Sunlight: Choose a location with full sun — at least 6–8 hours daily. Soil: Well-drained, loamy soil with a pH of 6.0–6.5 is best. Avoid low areas where water collects. Soil test kits can be found at local Richmond Public Libraries Air Circulation: Good airflow helps reduce fungal diseases. How to Transplant: Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Loosen the surrounding soil to encourage root spread. Gently slide the tree out of the pot, loosening any tightly wound roots. Trim circling roots to prevent girdling. Place the tree so the root flare (where roots meet trunk) is level with or slightly above ground level. Fill with native soil (you can mix in some compost if soil quality is poor). Water deeply to remove air pockets. Apply 2–4 inches of mulch around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. This helps conserve moisture and regulate temperature. After planting: Water deeply once a week during the first growing season, more often in hot/dry spells. Lightly prune in late winter to shape and remove damaged branches. Young peach trees can be susceptible to deer, rabbits, and voles, so consider fencing or trunk guards. Good luck with your peach tree!! We wish you lots of success! Thanks again for reaching out.

Serviceberry TLC

    Date Posted: Thu, Jul 31 - 10:56 pm

    Question

  • My service berry tree has split bark in several places and there may be insects in the bark. There are many yellow leaves. The tree doesn’t look healthy. I planted it in the fall. Is there anything I can do to save it?

    • Answer

  • Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your serviceberry tree is experiencing some stress, but we’ll do our best to help you support its recovery. Yellowing leaves can indicate a few things: transplant shock, water stress, or even nutrient deficiency. This is common in newly planted trees as they adjust to their environment. Split bark can also be a sign of environmental stress like rapid temperature changes in winter (known as frost cracks or sunscald), mechanical injury (e.g., weed trimmers or animals), and overwatering or underwatering. Unfortunately, splits in the bark can make the tree more susceptible to insect or disease invasion. If you see insects, they may be opportunists rather than the primary cause. What You Can Do: Inspect the trunk: Look closely at any insects you find. If you can, take a clear photo to try to ID. Mulch properly: Place a 2–3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it a few inches away from the trunk) to regulate soil temperature and moisture. Water consistently: Deeply water once a week during dry periods. Avoid overwatering—serviceberries prefer moist but well-drained soil. Prune carefully: Remove any obviously dead or damaged branches, but avoid heavy pruning during stress periods. Avoid fertilizer for now: Wait until the tree is more stable before fertilizing. It may take some time for your serviceberry to bounce back, but with proper care and monitoring, it could still recover. We wish you the best! For more information, check out: https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/serviceberry/

Amaryllis TLC

    Date Posted: Thu, Jul 31 - 11:27 am

    Question

  • I have a plant that I think is an Amaryllis (it belonged to my grandmother). It has never bloomed and the stems are very droopy. Do you have suggestions for how to care for it and encourage it to bloom? Or is it a different plant? Thank you!

    • Answer

  • Thank you for your question—and how special to have a plant that belonged to your grandmother! From your photo, it does appear to be an amaryllis, especially given the long, strap-like leaf. If it's never bloomed and the foliage is droopy, a few adjustments in care might help encourage healthier growth and eventually, blooms. Here are a few tips to support your amaryllis: Light: Amaryllis need bright, indirect sunlight to thrive. If it's indoors, try placing it near a sunny window. Without enough light, the leaves may become elongated and floppy. Watering: Water sparingly—the bulb doesn’t like to stay soggy. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, and make sure the pot drains well. Potting: Make sure the bulb is planted in well-draining soil and that about one-third of the bulb remains above the soil line. A snug pot is best—just about 1 inch wider than the bulb. Bloom Encouragement: Amaryllis often need a dormancy period to bloom. In late summer or early fall, you can: Stop watering and allow the leaves to die back naturally. Move the pot to a cool, dark place (around 50–55°F) for 6–8 weeks. After the rest period, bring it back into the light, resume watering, and it should begin new growth—with a bloom soon to follow! We hope these suggestions will help you enjoy a happy, blooming amaryllis for years to come!

Preparing new garden beds for planting

    Date Posted: Tue, Jul 15 - 10:50 pm

    Question

  • I need to landscape front garden beds. what’s best to place on top of area for two months. Are tarps weighed down w/bricks okay? Arborist chips clean? I’m old so I want something easy/low maintenance. Planning on native perennials and grasses, a few shrubs/service berry.

    • Answer

  • Thank you for your question! It sounds like you're off to a great start with a thoughtful plan for a low-maintenance, native landscape. Both of the options you suggested are great ideas for prepping your beds for planting. 1. Tarps: Yes, tarps weighed down with bricks or secured with lawn staples can work well to smother weeds and prevent new growth before planting. This method is known as "occultation." It’s easy, effective, and doesn't require much labor. Just make sure the tarp is opaque and tightly secured to prevent wind from getting underneath. I have personally had success with using black plastic and lawn staples, and am able to re-use the black plastic when I'm ready to expand the garden. 2. Arborist Wood Chips: Fresh arborist chips are also a great option, especially for a native planting. They help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and gradually improve soil as they break down. It’s fine to apply them now even if they’re “green” (fresh)—just keep them 3–6 inches deep and avoid piling them right against any existing stems or trunks. You can combine both methods too: tarp the area now, then remove the tarp and add arborist chips once you’re ready to plant. Native perennials, grasses, and a few shrubs like serviceberry are perfect choices for a low-maintenance, pollinator-friendly garden. Once established, they should need minimal watering and upkeep. Happy gardening!