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Pruning Oakleaf Hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Fri, Jul 11 - 12:54 am
- I have an oakleaf hydrangea that has grown too large for its spot in my yard here in Richmond. When is the best time to cut it back and should I cut its branches close to the trunk? Can it be encouraged to grow more vertically and not spread out horizontally?
- Thank you for your question about your oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)! I frequently walk past the ones Maymont has in their parking lot at the nature center and am always admiring how beautiful they are but they can indeed outgrow their space over time. Timing: The best time to prune oakleaf hydrangeas is shortly after they finish blooming, typically in late June through early August here in Richmond. These shrubs bloom on old wood, meaning they form next year’s flower buds on stems grown the previous year. Pruning in late summer or fall will likely remove those buds and reduce flowering the following year. How to prune: Avoid cutting branches all the way back to the trunk. Instead, remove about 1/3 of the oldest, thickest stems at the base to encourage new growth and improve shape. You can also shorten some of the remaining stems to reduce overall size and guide the shape—just make cuts back to a bud or side branch. Encouraging vertical growth: Oakleaf hydrangeas naturally have a broad, spreading habit. While you can’t dramatically change this growth pattern, you can encourage a more upright form by thinning out wide-angled branches and encouraging vertical shoots, selectively removing outward-growing stems to reduce width, and/or using light staking or support for young vertical stems if needed (though this is more effective in younger plants). If the space is truly too small for the mature size of your shrub, long-term, you might consider relocating it in the fall or early spring when it’s dormant. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Hydrangea Pruning
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Date Posted: Wed, Jun 04 - 1:52 am
- Hello! My hydrangeas need some help. I inherited them with my new to me house in late fall, so this spring was my first opportunity to prune. They were already overgrown from the past owners. For the big leaf hydrangeas: I missed the fall pruning, so these haven't had a haircut since who knows when. The branches are getting weighed down from the weight of the flower and leaves, and the plant is very leggy. Should I try and start selectively and slowly clipping them back now or wait until they're done blooming and do it one big chop? If now, do I cut the old leggy wood back, or just the new green branches that are stemming from the old leggy wood (the two blooms on the top of the left bush are an example)? For the panicle hydrangea in the middle: I cut what I thought was way back this spring, but clearly not enough! Should I be trying to selectively trim some of this back now or bite the bullet and wait until spring and do a big chop? It's so tall and it's only May! Thank you!
- Thanks for reaching out—and congratulations on your new home and garden! It sounds like you’re giving your hydrangeas some thoughtful attention, which they’ll definitely appreciate. The blooms are beautiful! Here’s a breakdown of how to approach pruning both your bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) and your panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata): Bigleaf Hydrangeas : These bloom on old wood, meaning the flower buds for this summer formed last year. That’s why heavy spring pruning can often result in fewer blooms. Since yours are blooming now, I'd recommend that you hold off on major pruning until after they finish flowering—typically by mid to late summer. Then you can: Remove about 1/3 of the oldest, leggiest stems at the base to encourage new growth from the bottom and lightly shape the plant by shortening stems that look untidy or weighed down. Avoid pruning after August, however, as that risks cutting off next year’s flower buds. In the meantime, if any branches are flopping badly or blocking paths, you can do a light, selective trim now—just avoid heavy cuts that remove flower buds. Panicle Hydrangeas: These bloom on new wood, so you have more flexibility with timing. You’re absolutely right that they can grow quickly in spring! For now, you can lightly thin or shorten a few of the tallest stems to maintain a more manageable shape but avoid cutting more than 1/3 of the plant this time of year. If it’s still too tall for your space, plan for a more significant structural pruning next late winter/early spring, before new growth starts. General Tips: Always cut just above a pair of healthy buds or a leaf node. Use clean, sharp pruners to avoid disease. Consider adding mulch and checking soil drainage if plants look stressed or leggy—bigleaf hydrangeas especially like evenly moist (but not soggy) soil.
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Rhododendron Questions
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Date Posted: Thu, May 08 - 11:14 pm
- I have an established rhododendron and a couple of questions 1. Some leaves tern yellow and die and fall off 2. Others show yellowing but remain 3. New shoots form at the base but die never to mature 4 is there any way to encourage new growth on the old branches
- Thanks for reaching out with your rhododendron questions! You’ve made some great observations, and your plant is definitely trying to tell you something. Here are a few possible explanations and tips based on what you described: Yellowing and Leaf Drop: Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal, especially for older inner leaves. However, widespread or early-season yellowing in Richmond can also point to stress from heat or underlying root issues, particularly since rhododendrons are naturally cool-climate, understory plants. Our warm springs and hot summers can make them more susceptible to systemic diseases or environmental stress. Persistent Yellow Leaves: This could be a sign of sun stress—rhododendrons prefer morning sun with dappled afternoon shade. Too much direct, hot afternoon sun can cause the kind of yellowing you're seeing. Poor drainage or soil that’s too alkaline can also cause nutrient uptake issues, leading to chlorosis (leaf yellowing). New Shoots Dying Back: When new shoots at the base fail to mature, it often points to root zone stress, such as poor drainage, fungal root diseases, or heat stress. Check that mulch isn't piled too high against the base and that the soil is staying moist but not soggy. Encouraging New Growth on Old Branches: Yes! Light pruning in early spring, just after flowering, can stimulate new growth. Avoid heavy pruning all at once; instead, gradually thin out leggy or unproductive branches over time. Make cuts just above a healthy bud or leaf whorl to encourage branching. Good luck with your rhododendron!
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Growing Elderberries
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 12 - 12:43 pm
- Hello! I was just gifted a native elderberry and I'm looking for some advice. I also plan to get another one so they can bear fruit. I've been watching tons of videos but they all seem contradictory! I live in Richmond (Battery Park) with an urban yard - it's a bit bigger than typical row house size, and bordered by a shared fence on each side. I have a few areas to plant the elderberry where it will get at least 8 hours of full sun a day. My concern is that I want to keep the bush somewhat contained - I know they can grow quite large, but is there a way to prune it so it stays under 7-8 feet but still bears fruit? And, do you have any advice on how to stay on top of root suckers? I'm not sure how far the suckers will travel, but if they head into my neighbors yard I obviously wouldn't be able to see the sprout to know where to cut the root. I also heard the roots are quite hardy, so I'm trying to consider whether to plant near a retaining wall. In the videos I'm watching the plants all seem pretty naturally contained (versus something like blackberry which gets out of control), but I want to do everything I can to help out. Hoping I can make this work! I appreciate any advice you have. If helpful, I can send a photo of my backyard. Thank you, Julie
- What a lovely gift! I hope this will be something you are able to enjoy for years to come. And you are right! You will need a second one for cross pollination. We don't typically think of elderberries being wildly invasive, so I'd expect with your awareness of the need to keep an eye out for suckers, and your desire to prune it to keep it at a reasonable size, you will be pleased with your elderberry. A couple of pruning tips: Once the plant is established (after year 1 or 2), you can cut back about 1/3 of the oldest stems to the ground each year to encourage new growth. To keep overall height in check, you can also cut the remaining stems back to your desired height (just above strong buds). Many gardeners cut stems to about 3–4 feet in early spring, which results in a bush that finishes around 6–8 feet tall by summer. Managing suckers: You’re right—elderberries do sucker from the roots and can spread over time, though they are usually less aggressive than blackberries. The suckers typically emerge within a few feet of the main plant, though they can travel farther in ideal conditions. To manage them, check around the base of the plant regularly during the growing season and cut suckers at the soil line or dig back to the root and clip at the source. You might also consider planting your elderberries in a root barrier ring—digging a trench and installing landscape edging 12–18" deep around the planting area to contain the roots. Planting near a retaining wall: Elderberry roots aren’t known for damaging structures like a retaining wall, but they are persistent. If you're concerned about suckers creeping into a neighbor’s yard or through shared fences, planting 3–5 feet away from those boundaries is a good buffer. That space also makes it easier to walk around the plant and manage pruning or harvesting. Hope this helps as you decide where to plant! Best of luck to you! Hope you will enjoy your elderberries for years to come.
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Growing Herbs
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 03 - 11:09 pm
- How to grow healthy Herb plant? Plants like Basil, cilantro, Rosemarys.
- Growing herbs is so rewarding! I love having what I need for a recipe growing outside the back door! Basil, cilantro, and rosemary each have their own needs, so here’s a quick guide to help them thrive: Basil: Loves warmth and the sun and needs at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, prefers well-draining, nutrient-rich soil, keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy — water when the top inch feels dry, pinch off the top leaves regularly to encourage bushy growth and prevent flowering (which can make the leaves bitter), snip stems just above a leaf pair — this helps the plant grow fuller. Cilantro: Prefers cooler weather and about 4–6 hours of sun, this is a great spring and fall plant but typically doesn't survive in Virginia summers, too much heat can make it bolt (flower) quickly, likes loose, well-drained soil with some compost mixed in, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogging, cilantro grows fast — consider planting seeds every few weeks for a continuous harvest. Rosemary: Thrives with at least 6–8 hours of full sun, prefers sandy, well-drained soil — it hates sitting in water, let the soil dry out between waterings. Rosemary prefers to stay on the drier side, trim regularly to keep the shape and encourage new growth, there is a lot of Rosemary in our area that survives the winter, but its not a big fan of winter and does best if its in a warm sunny spot or you could bring it inside for the winter. Happy gardening! Enjoy your herbs!
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Fig & Cherry trees
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Date Posted: Fri, Sep 06 - 11:33 am
- Planted two fig trees (brown Turkey, Hardy Chicago) and a cherry tree (sweetheart) in mid July that have really been struggling recently. I’m wondering what diseases they might have and would love advice on how to treat them. Thank you! Hardy Chicago fig picture attached
- Fig and cherry trees can be a bit sensitive to grow, especially when planted in the heat of summer. The best time to plant is typically in May, or if you are eager to get them in the ground you can plant larger saplings in the fall. Thank you for including the picture, its helpful to see what you are seeing. It's possible the browning you are seeing is related to environmental stress (transplanting, summer heat, etc). However, it also seems likely that your plant is suffering from fig rust, a common issue for fig trees that is caused by a fungal pathogen that can impact the health of the tree if not managed properly. Fig rust symptoms are worse during hot, wet, humid weather in late summer. Fig rust starts out as small, yellowish or reddish spots on the upper side of the leaves. As the disease progresses, these spots may turn brown and become surrounded by a yellow halo. On the underside of the leaves, you may see small, rust-colored pustules, which contain the fungal spores. Fig rust is caused by the fungus Fusicladium effusum. This pathogen thrives in warm, humid conditions and can spread rapidly if the environment is favorable. There are a few things you can do to try to control the fungus from a cultural standpoint that focus on reducing the time that leaves are wet in order to stop spore germination and infection. This includes: avoid overhead irrigation and water at the base of the plant instead, do not plant the trees in shady areas, regularly weed to help keep humidity around the tree lower, and avoid planting in areas that flood or have free-standing water after rainfall. It's also important to remove and destroy any downed leaves from near the plant to remove the fungus.
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Blueberries and Lavender
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:37 pm
- Hello, I have 3 questions - I have blueberry bushes that were not properly tended to over the summer heat. They produced lovely berries but since have grown scraggly and I need to trim them back. Is there a proper time and way to do this? I have attempted several times to take cuttings and start new plants. Failed every time. Any suggestions? I have lavender plants in front of the blueberry bushes. They are half alive and half dead. Do I need to move them? I am thinking it is from the overgrowth of limbs from the blueberry bushes but not certain. I am presently in the tedious process of soaking the ground in the evenings and pulling the grass and weeds that surround them. I appreciate your help.
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! You have several great questions that we will do our best to give you some guidance on: 1. When to prune blueberry bushes: The best time to prune blueberries is in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing helps the bush recover and grow new shoots for the coming season. You could also have done some light pruning after harvesting, particularly if you noticed any dead or diseased branches. Regular, light pruning is usually better than infrequent, heavy pruning. Always make clean cuts and avoid leaving stubs, as these can become entry points for pests or diseases. 2. How to prune blueberry bushes: Start by cutting out any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. This helps improve air circulation and reduces the risk of pests and diseases. If the bush is very dense, selectively remove some of the older, thicker branches from the center of the plant to improve airflow and light penetration. This encourages better fruit development. Blueberry bushes produce the most fruit on new growth. Cut back older branches that are more than 6 years old to promote the growth of new, fruitful shoots. Aim for a well-rounded shape, which helps the bush maintain balance and supports better fruit production. Trim to keep the bush to a manageable size and shape, typically removing no more than a third of the plant's height in one season. During the growing season, you can also trim any overly vigorous shoots that might be crowding the plant, encouraging a more balanced structure. 3. Using cuttings to start new plants: The best time to take blueberry cuttings is from late summer to early fall when the wood is semi-hard but not yet fully mature. Choose cuttings from healthy, vigorous plants. Look for shoots that are not too old or too young. Ideally, the cuttings should be from the current season's growth and about 4-6 inches long. If possible, select shoots that haven't flowered, as they will have more energy to put into growing roots. - Preparing Cuttings: Make a clean cut just below a node (the point where leaves attach to the stem). This is where the roots are most likely to develop. Strip off the lower leaves, leaving a few at the top. This reduces moisture loss and encourages root growth. Although optional, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone can improve the chances of successful rooting. Rooting hormone is available in powder, gel, or liquid form. -Planting: Use a well-draining rooting medium like a mix of peat moss and perlite or sand. You can also use a commercial rooting mix. Insert the cuttings into the rooting medium about 1-2 inches deep. Firm the soil around them to ensure good contact. -Care: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water the cuttings gently to avoid displacing them. Cover the cuttings with a plastic bag or place them in a greenhouse or a propagation chamber to maintain high humidity. Ensure the cover does not touch the cuttings to avoid mold. Place the cuttings in a location with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can be too intense for young cuttings. -Transplanting: After about 8-12 weeks, check for root development by gently tugging on the cuttings. If you feel resistance, roots have formed. Rooting can take time, so be patient and avoid disturbing the cuttings too soon. Once roots are established, transplant the cuttings into small pots with a potting mix suitable for blueberries or a mix of peat and perlite. Gradually acclimate the young plants to outdoor conditions by exposing them to more light and outdoor temperatures over a couple of weeks. 4. Caring for lavender plants: Lavender plants can be a bit finicky, but several common issues could be causing them to struggle or die. Here are a few things to think about: Lavender needs well-draining soil. Heavy, clayey, or waterlogged soils can lead to root rot. Consider improving drainage by adding sand or gravel to the soil, or planting in raised beds or containers with good drainage. Lavender prefers slightly alkaline to neutral soil, ideally with a pH between 6.7 and 7.3. You can test your soil’s pH with a kit and amend it if necessary. Lavender is drought-tolerant and doesn’t like to sit in wet soil. Water sparingly and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause root rot and other issues. While lavender prefers less frequent watering, it still needs some moisture, especially in hot, dry conditions. Ensure it gets enough water during prolonged dry spells. Lavender requires full sun to thrive, which means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If it’s not getting enough light, it can become leggy and weak. Lavender generally prefers temperate climates. Extreme cold or heat can stress the plant Lavender doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer. Fungal diseases like root rot, powdery mildew, and rust can affect lavender. Ensure proper spacing for air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce disease risk. Lavender benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape and health. Prune after flowering to remove spent blooms and encourage new growth. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems, as they may not regenerate. Blueberries and lavender can be successfully planted together, but there are a few things to think about to ensure both plants thrive. Both blueberries and lavender prefer acidic to neutral soil. Blueberries thrive in a pH of 4.5 to 5.5, while lavender prefers a pH of around 6.7 to 7.3. This difference in pH requirements means you’ll need to find a balance or be prepared to amend the soil appropriately. Both plants need full sun to grow well. Ensure they receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Both plants require well-draining soil. Blueberries are prone to root rot in poorly drained soils, and lavender, though drought-tolerant, also dislikes wet feet. Blueberries need consistent moisture, especially during the growing season, whereas lavender prefers drier conditions and is more tolerant of drought. Overwatering can lead to issues for both plants, so careful watering practices are necessary. We hope this will give you some guidance for moving forward. Happy gardening!
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Planting sapling redbuds
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Date Posted: Thu, May 30 - 5:26 pm
- I have two sapling eastern redbuds. I have grown them from seed. Looking to plant them in my yard, what is the proper exposure and best time of year for them to thrive in the ground? Also how far apart should they be planted?
- How exciting! Redbuds are so beautiful, and what an accomplishment to grow them from seed. There are a couple of things to keep in mind when planting sapling redbuds- First, it is best to plant them on the smaller side as they don't enjoy being transplanted due to their long taproot. Second, the best time of year to plant many natives, including eastern redbuds, is the early fall after the heat of summer has passed. This allows the plant time to get established before winter and sets it up to really thrive the following year! An exception to this, is if you are planting in a space that closely mimics the redbud's natural environment. They are happiest with partial shade and in moist, well-drained soil. Whether you decide to plant now or early fall, keep them well mulched and watered as they for at least the first year as they get established. They should be planted at least 12 feet apart from each other to allow space for both to grow. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Composting - continued!
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Date Posted: Sun, Nov 12 - 5:36 pm
- I am very appreciative of the options you recommended for me to compost. I think I was not very clear in my question. I already know where to bring food scraps, and I already do bring food scraps for composting. My dilemma is where to bring dead plants. I have a tiny yard, and, therefore no space for a compost bin. Now that summer potted plants are dead, I need to know where to bring the large dead plants. Thanks
- I'm sorry my first answer did not give you the information you were looking for. I've reached out to a few others in our Master Gardener group but none of us have used a composting service specifically for large plants. I believe some of the suggestions I gave you may be able to take them, but the next steps would be to reach out them to ask. I did try to reach out to Richmond Grows Gardens, but have not yet heard back from them. I have previously spoken with some of the ladies that work at the Bird House Farmers Market and she shared that the compost company that picks up their bins can compost anything and everything organic. At the time, I didnt ask specifically about large plants, but here is the email address for the company if you would like to reach out and ask: info@nopeva.com I admire your determination for finding a good place to take these plants! I currently have a small pile in my back yard where they are breaking down, but it would be great to have other options available. Hope this information helps you get to what you are looking for!
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Stunted vegetable garden
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Date Posted: Sat, Aug 12 - 6:55 pm
- My vegetable garden has been stunted in its growth this summer and I’ve been trying to figure out what I can do differently. I think we may have some Red Thread in the yard.
- I think many local vegetable gardens have experienced some stunting this year. The prolonged cooler weather we had at the beginning of the summer seemed to have a big impact on plants that were put in the ground in late April and May. In addition, we have had several periods with very little rain to help keep gardens watered which has also been having an impact. Before planting next year, its a good idea to do a soil test to see where your soil could use some support. Soil tests are available through the master gardeners at your local library. You can use these results to ensure you are planting in a robust healthy soil that is ready to provide a good home to your plants. Also, if you aren't already doing this, I would suggest fertilizing your garden with an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizers slowly release nutrients giving a steady supply of food to your plants without disrupting the work of earthworms and other beneficial organisms. Follow the recommendations on the label for frequency of fertilizing. I'm not aware of nor have I been able to find any literature on red thread having an impact on anything other than turf grass. I'm not sure if you mentioned that in correlation with your concerns about your vegetable garden or as a separate concern. However, if you were looking for recommendations to deal with the red thread as well, fungicides are not usually advised for red thread control on residential turf for various reasons. The disease is largely cosmetic. Unless environmental conditions that promote disease development persist for extended periods, the turf will recover — usually with no lasting effects of infection. Good luck and happy gardening!