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Planting plans for dwarf trees/shrubs
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Date Posted: Mon, Sep 14 - 12:51 am
- Hello, I hope your day is going well. I have a question pertaining to placing a dwarf tree/shrub close to the house. For the two dwarf trees/shrubs, listed below, how far from the house foundation should I place them? I am looking to place a Dwarf Globe Blue Spruce (Picea pungens 'Globosa') or a dwarf false cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Night Light' or 'Nana Lutea') in a bed that is against my house. These are both dwarf trees but also called shrubs/bushes based on their heights. I was reading about placing a tree the distance away from the house as it is tall. The mature height of these two dwarf tree/shrub is around 4-6ft after 10 years but if left unpruned for longer can be a few feet taller potentially, but I couldn't find a reliable source to back this claim. If I place them away from the house at the mature height after 10 years but do not account for however it may get after decades, would it mess up my house's foundation or do I need to not worry about it? Thank you so much for your time and help. Have a great day
- Thank you so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. This is a great question, and its very smart of you to be considering planting shrubs based on their mature size and not based on the size they are in the pot, as many people do. As with all things gardening, there are different perspectives that people have when considering this question, and some things will depend on your personal preference. Generally, we'd recommend shrubs to be planted at least 1/2 the diameter of the mature width away from the house plus 1 - 3 feet. So if a shrub has a mature 6' width, they should be planted at least 4' away from the house if not 5' or 6' away. The additional space leaves for a gap between the plant and house to allow airflow against the house and reduces the need for pruning. If you don't mind pruning, the shrubs can be planted closer to the house. If you would rather not prune that much, plant them farther away. It seems like you are already aware that "dwarf" varieties will happily grow beyond what their label lists as their maximum size, particularly after decades, as you mentioned. Because of this, you could also ere on planting a little farther from the house as opposed to closer. Its unlikely the roots from either plant will damage the house's foundation, even after decades. Ultimately, you should be safe planting at least 5' from the house for these two plants. Another thing to consider is how close these shrubs are planted to one another. You can use the same recommendation for determining distance from the house and space the shrubs 1/2 their mature spread plus 1' pending how intermingled you prefer the mature shrubs to be. For the two shrubs you are considering, you could think about spacing them at least 6 if not 7 feet apart. This way they can grow without pruning to a nice mature size and not bump into each other. If you prefer the look of a heavier prune, you could plant them closer together. Hope this is helpful! Best of luck to you!
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Prune or Transplant?
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Date Posted: Sat, Sep 12 - 1:12 am
- We have several shrubs that we planted about 3 years ago that have been thriving. I thought we had spaced everything well but they've really exploded in growth. They're all beautiful and seem healthy. We've let them get pretty wild but I am worried now that we're at the point of overcrowding. We have a Spice Girl Viburnum, a Sweet Talker Viburnum, and a Crimson Fire Loropetalum together and the Loropetalum is closest to our Flame Thrower Redbud tree. (In the pictures you'll also see Radiance Abelias but if possible, we don't want to move those as they are right along the border with our garden path). How do I decide if I just need some more intentional pruning or if it's time to move one of the plants? Which would you recommend moving? The Sweet Talker Viburnum is the one closest to the fence and there is some room to move it but is it feasible to try to shift it over if it's only a shift 6-18"? Would it be better to move the Lorapetalum? I appreciate your advice!
- Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your shrubs are very happy in their location, which is a great problem to have! After only three years, however, they may still have quite a bit of growing to do, so this is a good time to think about their mature sizes rather than just their current sizes. Some overlap between shrubs isn't necessarily a problem, particularly if you're going for a full, layered garden. The concern is when plants become crowded enough that they are competing for light and space, developing an uneven shape, rubbing against structures or neighboring plants, or requiring frequent pruning just to keep them within their allotted area. Virginia Cooperative Extension recommends spacing shrubs according to their mature size; overcrowding can eventually reduce flowering and air circulation and create competition for resources. I would start by looking up the expected mature width of each of your specific cultivars and measuring from the center of each plant to its neighbors. This will give you a better idea of whether you're dealing with vigorous young growth that can be managed with selective pruning or plants that ultimately don't have enough room. For your viburnums, I would wait until immediately after they finish blooming next spring to do any significant pruning. Spring-flowering shrubs generally form their flower buds on the previous year's growth, so pruning them now, over the winter, or early next spring would remove many of next year's flowers. When you do prune, I would favor selective thinning and removal of individual branches rather than shearing the outside of the shrub. The goal is to preserve the plant's natural shape rather than continually making it smaller. If your measurements show that the shrubs will still substantially overlap at maturity, I would consider transplanting rather than committing to increasingly heavy pruning every year. Fall, after deciduous plants enter dormancy, is a good time to move established shrubs in Virginia. I probably would not dig up an established viburnum simply to move it 6–18 inches. For a three-year-old shrub, that's quite a bit of root disturbance for relatively little additional growing room. If 6–18 inches truly resolves the mature-spacing issue, it can be done, but I would first see whether thoughtful pruning accomplishes what you need. Of the plants you mentioned, I would pay particular attention to the Crimson Fire loropetalum's relationship with the Flame Thrower redbud. The redbud will continue developing a much larger canopy and root system, so if the loropetalum is positioned where the two will increasingly interfere with one another, moving the loropetalum to a location where it has adequate room at maturity may provide a better long-term solution than repeatedly pruning it away from the tree. Since all of the plants currently look healthy, you don't necessarily need to make an immediate change. You could use this fall and winter to measure the bed and compare those measurements with the cultivars' mature sizes, then enjoy the viburnums' flowers next spring and make your pruning or transplanting decisions from there. Also, here's a great resource for pruning: https://ext.vt.edu/lawn-garden/pruning.html
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Mosquito Management
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Date Posted: Thu, Sep 03 - 6:41 pm
- Mosquitos!!! The bane of our existence here in Midlothian VA where we have lived for the last 23 years. We love to garden and spend lots of time outside. We have tried mosquito shield spray services such as Orkin, Thermacell repellents and of course Off spray and wipes. Any hour of the day, mosquitos swarm to us. In less than 5 minutes they find us no matter what. We've also tried prevention, such as cleaning out gutters, eliminating standing water etc. Do you have reports of products or prevention that have been most effective for Richmonder's wanting to spend time outdoors in their gardens? Thanks so much!
- Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately, mosquitoes can be especially challenging in our warm, humid Richmond-area summers, and it sounds like you have already tried many of the common recommendations. The most effective approach is generally to combine several mosquito-management strategies. You are already doing one of the most important things by eliminating standing water. We recommend continuing to check the property at least weekly, since mosquitoes can develop in surprisingly small amounts of water. In addition to gutters, look closely at flowerpot saucers, tarps, wheelbarrows, toys, buckets, birdbaths, corrugated drain extensions, trash/recycling containers, tree holes, and anywhere else rainwater may collect. Containers should be emptied and scrubbed, not just dumped, because mosquito eggs can remain attached to the sides. For water that cannot reasonably be emptied, such as rain barrels, some water features, or other areas of persistent standing water, consider using a mosquito larvicide containing Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis) according to the product label. These are commonly sold as mosquito dunks or bits and target mosquito larvae before they become biting adults. For personal protection while gardening, EPA-registered repellents remain one of the most reliable options. Active ingredients to look for include DEET, picaridin, IR3535, or oil of lemon eucalyptus/PMD. If you dislike the feel or smell of DEET products, you may find a picaridin-based repellent worth trying. You mentioned Thermacell products as well. These are a type of spatial repellent and can be helpful within a limited area, but their effectiveness can be affected by wind and the size of the area you are trying to protect. They may work better for sitting on a patio than for moving throughout a garden. One additional, simple option to try is air movement. Mosquitoes are relatively weak fliers, so placing a strong outdoor fan near a patio, gardening work area, or other place where you spend significant time can make that particular area much less hospitable to them. We would be cautious about relying heavily on routine whole-yard insecticide spraying, particularly in a garden with flowering plants. Products used to kill adult mosquitoes can also affect non-target insects. CDC guidance specifically recommends avoiding applications to plants in bloom or plants being visited by bees and butterflies. If you do choose professional mosquito treatment, we would suggest asking the company exactly what product they use, where they apply it, and what steps they take to minimize exposure to pollinators. Finally, if mosquito numbers are truly extreme despite diligent management on your property, the source may not be entirely within your yard. Nearby properties, drainage areas, neglected containers, or other standing water can continually produce mosquitoes that move into your garden. I hope this gives you a few additional strategies to try. Unfortunately, there isn't one product that will create a completely mosquito-free garden, but combining breeding-site reduction, larval control, personal repellents, and protection of the areas where you spend the most time can make a noticeable difference.
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Cherry tree dropping leaves
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 11 - 11:37 am
- Need assistance with a cherry tree losing leaves. He did not see black spots or holes in leaves, thinks heat may be a factor.
- Thank you for contacting the Master Gardener Help Desk. Heat and drought stress can certainly cause cherry trees to lose leaves, particularly during the hot, dry conditions we've experienced this summer. When trees become stressed, they may shed older leaves to conserve water. However, leaf drop can also be caused by diseases such as cherry leaf spot, bacterial leaf spot, or other environmental stresses. Since you did not observe black spots or holes in the leaves, those diseases may be less likely, but it can be difficult to determine the cause without examining the tree and the fallen leaves. In the meantime, make sure the tree receives adequate water during dry periods. A mature tree generally benefits from a slow, deep watering when rainfall is lacking rather than frequent shallow watering. Applying a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it several inches away from the trunk) can also help conserve soil moisture and moderate soil temperatures. If the tree is otherwise healthy and the leaf drop is due to heat stress, it should recover once environmental conditions improve. Avoid fertilizing or pruning the tree while it is under stress. If the problem continues, or if you notice spots on the leaves, dead branches, oozing bark, or other symptoms, it is likely more than an environmental problem. Photos of the entire tree, the trunk, and both the upper and lower surfaces of affected leaves would be especially helpful in narrowing down the cause. You can email photos to rvamastergardeners@gmail.com
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Pruning Willow Oak and planting Chicago Hardy Fig
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 02 - 7:00 pm
- Hello, We have a very large Willow Oak tree that we want to trim. Any recommendations for arborists that can trim these large trees without causing harm to the tree? We also have a Chicago Hardy fig tree, how far from the foundation should we plant it?
- Thank you so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. For your willow oak, we recommend hiring an ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) Certified Arborist with experience pruning large, mature shade trees. Proper pruning is important for maintaining the long-term health and structure of an established oak, and an experienced arborist can determine whether pruning is necessary and recommend the best approach. While we aren't able to give specific recommendations, you can search for certified arborists in your area using the ISA's "Find an Arborist" directory: https://www.treesaregood.org/findanarborist. Be sure to ask about their experience with mature oaks and request proof of certification and insurance. For your Chicago Hardy fig, we recommend planting it at least 10–15 feet from your home's foundation. Although figs generally have shallow, spreading root systems that are not considered aggressively invasive, they can become quite large, often reaching 15–30 feet tall and wide under favorable conditions. Allowing adequate space provides room for the canopy to develop, improves air circulation, makes harvesting easier, and helps avoid branches rubbing against the house. If you plan to keep the fig pruned as a smaller shrub, you may be able to plant it somewhat closer, but 10–15 feet is a good general guideline for long-term growth.
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"Suckering" trees
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Date Posted: Wed, Jun 10 - 1:26 am
- Hi - we have a couple of trees that look to have “suckers” of varying lengths (an example shown below). Would an arborist be able to assist with removing these growths safely and helping to minimize future growths?
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners, and for including a very helpful photo! The growth you’re seeing are called “suckers” or epicormic shoots. In your case, these are vigorous shoots coming from the lower trunk. While the leaf shape looks consistent with the rest of the tree, the green color (compared to the purple canopy above) suggests this growth may be coming from the rootstock rather than the grafted top. You are correct to want to remove these, as they can take energy away from the upper canopy and, over time, may outcompete the desired growth if left unmanaged. If you are comfortable with pruning, many homeowners find they can remove these themselves keeping a few things in mind. First, be sure to prune each shoot back as close to the trunk as possible (don’t leave stubs). Stubs will create more suckers. Always use clean, sharp pruners. It is best to remove the suckers while they are still relatively longer. For larger or very dense growth like you have, an arborist can certainly help, but it’s not strictly necessary if you’re comfortable pruning. To help reduce future suckering: 1. Continue removing shoots promptly when they appear 2. Avoid heavy pruning of the upper canopy, which can stimulate more growth 3. Keep the tree healthy with proper watering and mulch (but avoid piling mulch against the trunk) From what I can tell from your photo, this appears to be a purple-leaf redbud, which is often grafted onto a standard green-leaf redbud rootstock. The rootstock naturally produces green leaves and tends to grow more vigorously, which seems to be what you’re seeing here. More broadly, trees often produce suckers in response to stress or disruption. Common triggers include heavy pruning or canopy loss, damage to roots or trunk (from lawn equipment, construction, etc.), environmental stress, such as drought or poor soil conditions, planting issues (like being planted too deeply or having mulch piled against the trunk), and natural growth habit of certain species or rootstocks If these shoots continue to return aggressively, it may just be the nature of the rootstock, but it can also be worth checking for any underlying stress factors.
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Figs, mint, strawberries and cilantro
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Date Posted: Wed, May 06 - 2:08 am
- Hello, I purchased a small fig tree in a plant sale. However, I read after purchase that they can be really aggressive here in VA and choke other plants/roots extend so far that they can damage walls and foundation. I wanted to check if I should put it in a container or plant it as planned in an area that gets east and south Sun. If planted in the ground, how far should it be from structures? Is there an extra way to control its root growth ( pruning in the winter for example )? The same question for strawberries and herbs like sweat mint and cilantro. I read that they could spread and take over the garden and that a flower bed won’t keep them contained. Would they be better planted in a raised garden bed?
- It sounds like you had a great day at the plant sale and have several great questions! Starting with figs ... This is a really great resource about growing figs put out by the Virginia Cooperative Extension office and I believe it answers all of your questions: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/pubs_ext_vt_edu/en/SPES/spes-760.html If you are interested in doing a soil test before planting, there are typically soil tests available from the local libraries. Also, if you'd like to see some examples of mature figs, including one that was recently pruned, you can visit Humphrey Calder Community garden at the corner of Thompson and Patterson. The pruning was done by the city to ease maintenance around the tree and protect the fence. Strawberries and mint are both eager growers and like to spread and can be challenging to control when planted in the ground. Personally, I always plant mint in a large grow bag. It is very happy there, comes back year after year, and is well contained. Strawberries can also be grown in containers easily, or you could make a small raised bed for them. There is another example of this at Humphrey calder - you will find a bed near the center opening area that is mostly strawberries, but the gardener grows other things in the middle of the strawberries, like tomatoes. The Piedmont Master Gardeners have a great resource about growing strawberries: https://www.piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/strawberry-basics-for-the-home-garden/ Cilantro is not something I have ever had to worry about taking over. It is very temperature sensitive and bolts easily as the weather warms. The cilantro I've been growing this spring has already bolted (gone to flower and forming seeds). I would recommend finding a shady spot for your cilantro, and if planting in a pot helps you get it in a shady spot, then that work perfectly fine. This is a great resource for growing cilantro in Virginia: https://gardenclub.org/blog/cilantro-cool-season-culinary-herb Good luck with your new plants! Have fun!
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Pruning Camillias
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Date Posted: Wed, Apr 08 - 11:33 pm
- Good morning. My Camellia trees that are very mature just finished blooming. I would like to do a hard cut back to about 2 feet tall to reshape. With them blooming so late in the season may I do that now? The trees are greater than 20 years old and very healthy. Their shape is just gotten off over the years.
- Thank you for reaching out to the master gardeners! You are actually in the perfect window to prune since your camellias have just finished blooming. Camellias, even mature ones like yours, are generally very tolerant of hard pruning, so cutting them back to around 2 feet (a rejuvenation prune) is acceptable, especially since they are healthy and well established. That said, you should expect to lose blooms for next season because you’ll be removing developing buds, and the plants may look a bit sparse or uneven at first as they push out new growth over the next one to two growing seasons. When pruning, try to make cuts just above a leaf node or lateral branch, and after pruning, support recovery with consistent watering and mulch rather than heavy fertilization right away. If you’d prefer a more gradual approach, you could also reduce the size over two years by removing a portion of the older wood each season. Overall, your camellias should respond well, it will just be a bit of a reset before they fill back in beautifully. This is a great general resource about pruning put out by the Virginia Extension office: https://www.cmgv.org/images/References/Pruning%20Calendar%202019.pdf
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VCU Garden Beds
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 30 - 2:36 pm
- I am trying to revive 8 garden beds in the courtyard of my campus dorm. The soil is currently dense w/ roots from the nearby mature trees, which have basically invaded the beds! I am unsure what we should do with the roots :( Do we cut them? Additionally, there is a little sapling that is groing magestically in the center of one of the beds.... I do not want to kill it, as it proves itself to be resilient. I am unsure what kind of tree it is, but I assume it grew form one of the seeds of the trees above. How can I excave and transport the sapling to someone/somewhere it can thrive? I do not have photos on this device, but I would love to share pictures in an email thread once you get back to me :) With much thanks in advance, Emma Toggia
- Thanks so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. What a wonderful project for your campus space! It sounds like you’re already putting a lot of care into bringing those beds back to life! What you’re seeing with the roots is very common when garden beds are located near mature trees. Those trees naturally extend their root systems into nearby soil to access water and nutrients. Regarding the roots, you can cut smaller invading roots (pencil-size or smaller) when preparing the beds but you should avoid cutting large structural roots, as this can stress or damage the tree. And unfortunately, even with cutting, roots will likely return over time, so it may help to add a layer of fresh compost and topsoil to improve growing conditions. When deciding what to plant here, we'd recommend choosing shade-tolerant, root-competitive plants like ferns and hellebores About the sapling: It’s great that you’d like to preserve it! You can attempt to transplant it, especially if it’s still relatively young. The best time to transplant is early spring or fall, but you can try now if you’re careful and keep it well-watered afterward. Dig a wide circle around the sapling to capture as much of the root system as possible (roots are often wider than you expect) Gently lift it, keeping as much soil around the roots as you can. There are some trees that have a very long tap root that can be nearly impossible to get out once they reach even a small size. If you find this to be the case with this tree, it may not be possible to save the tree and move it. However, if you are able to get the root ball out of the ground relatively intact, replant it promptly in a new location (or container), water deeply, and keep it consistently moist while it establishes. Do keep in mind that volunteer saplings often come from nearby trees and may grow quite large—so choosing an appropriate long-term location is important. If you have additional questions or want to share photos, you can reach us at rvamastergardeners@gmail.com. Best of luck with your garden beds, this sounds like such a meaningful project for your community!
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Arborvitae Decline
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Date Posted: Thu, Feb 26 - 12:58 pm
- We have 2 arborvitae bushes/trees in our front yard. in Goochland County. One has died; the other is dying. They are about 25 years old. Perhaps they have just lived out their lives; but if there is something else it might be helpful to know before we replace them. We are only planting native plants now, so that might help the situation. If you have any thoughts, I would love it. Thanks so much in advance for all that you do for our community.
- Thank you so much for reaching out — and for your commitment to planting natives! That makes such a positive difference for our local ecosystem. Arborvitae can live quite a long time, often 40–150 years depending on the species and growing conditions, so 25 years would not typically be considered old age. When we see one arborvitae turn completely brown and another beginning to decline, it usually points to an environmental or site-related issue rather than natural lifespan. Is this a change that you have just been seeing recently? My first thought goes to the winter weather that we have had - both with all of the ice that we had sticking around forever in January and more recently all of the rain saturating our soils. Arborvitae do not tolerate prolonged saturated soils very well. When soils stay waterlogged, roots are deprived of oxygen and can begin to decline or develop root rot. The extended ice cover would have kept soils cold and saturated longer, further stressing the root system and delaying recovery. Evergreen foliage continues to lose moisture in winter, so if roots are compromised, browning can occur fairly quickly. It's typically not one single environmental factor that can lead to decline but several factors in combination: Wet soil weakens roots, ice delays recovery, a sudden warm spell increases transpiration, the plant cannot move water efficiently. That combination can lead to rapid browning. Spider Mites are also a possibility for the damage but seem much less likely to me. When spider mites are present, the foliage typically turns brown or dusty prior to becoming completely brown and you tend to see gradual thinning, rather than sudden death. It's also a little early to be seeing spider mites, but you could try shaking a branch over a piece of white paper to see if you see anything mite-like coming off. Given the wet winter and prolonged ice we've experienced, root stress from saturated soils is the most likely cause of the decline, particularly if one plant has browned uniformly and rapidly without visible insect evidence. While spider mites (and bagworms) can affect arborvitae, their damage patterns and seasonal timing do not match up with your description. Unfortunately, the one arborvitae that is completely brown is unlikely to recover, as they do not regenerate from old wood. The second tree may continue to decline if root damage has occurred. If you are looking for native replacement options, a couple of suggestions to consider are Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana) and American Holly (Ilex opaca). Good luck! The arborvitae beautifully framed your porch and I know it must be disappointing to lose them!