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Fruit tree grafting
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 23 - 10:36 pm
- Good Day! I am curious about fruit tree grafting. Specifically I am wondering about grafting fruit trees onto existing non-fruiting rootstock in my yard. Does that work? Are there parameters to making it work, as in, will it work but only with specific rootstock? My yard has some well established trees including some invasive mulberry. I would hope that the mulberry could be used, but I am also hopeful for the rest. Thanks for any advice you can offer.
- This is a great question! We are only aware of fruit trees being grafted onto rootstock of a similar species. For example, blueberries on to other blueberries, pawpaws on to other pawpaws, etc. We're still looking into this for you to see if we can find any example about grafting onto non-fruiting rootstock. If we do find information that supports this, we will follow up with an e-mail to you. In the mean time, you could try reaching out to fruit growers who may be more equipped to answer your question. A couple that come to mind that could be good resources for you is Agriberry here in Richmond and Edible Landscaping in Afton VA. Good luck!
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Invasive Plant Removal
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 18 - 2:00 am
- Are there any volunteer groups or does Richmond City help get rid of Japanese Knotwood, Chinese privet and tree of Heaven. There is a lot of all three on the property adjoining mine.
- This is a great question! Removing invasive plants around the city is increasingly becoming a priority for many and its great to see! So many Richmond neighbors are helping to decrease invasives and bring more natives back to our area. The primary group that I am aware of that is currently tackling this work is the Invasive Plant Task Force that is connected with the James River Parks Systems. Their website is: https://jrpsinvasiveplants.org/ If the property you are concerned about is near the river they may be able to help. And they may also have other connections and contacts that they could provide to you. Thanks for reaching out - good luck! This is hard but good work!
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Volunteer Trees
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Date Posted: Fri, May 31 - 5:41 pm
- I have several volunteer trees that look like dogwoods but they have never had blooms. is there a tree that looks like dogwood?
- Thanks for reaching out via the help desk! We are working to get a option to upload photos added to the page, but in the mean time I will send you a follow up e-mail so that we can get some pictures of your volunteer trees and see if we can help you identify them. It's possible that they are dogwoods and just haven't bloomed yet. They can take 5-7 years to get established before they start blooming. And it's also possible its something else with similar leaves. Hopefully we can help you better identify once we see some pictures!
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Rust on serviceberry
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Date Posted: Wed, May 01 - 1:12 am
- Our serviceberry (about two years old) has a rust on the berries. It looks relatively minor (about half the berries are about 50% covered in the rust spores). We planted this tree specifically to support the birds with the berries, although we are also very happy with all of the other ecological benefits the tree provides. Will the rust effect the desirability of the berries to the birds? Is there anything we can or should do to protect the tree/berries from more rust? We live in Churchhill on a tiny urban plot - the serviceberry is our only tree. Thank you!
- Cedar-apple rust and related rust fungi need plants from two plant families to complete their life cycle; Cupressaceae family (eastern red cedar and other junipers) and Rosaceae (apple, hawthorn, serviceberry). It seems likely there must be an eastern red cedar or juniper nearby, even though you do not have any other trees in your yard - the fungal spores can travel up to two miles! This can make it difficult to control the rust. You can prune and remove infected twigs and branches and dispose of them in the trash (not compost). Be sure to decontaminate pruning tools between cuts by dipping them for at least 30 seconds in 70% alcohol (e.g., rubbing alcohol) or 10% bleach. Alternatively, you can spray tools with a disinfectant that contains approximately 70% alcohol, then allow them to air dry. Decontaminating tools will prevent movement of rust fungi from branch to branch or from plant to plant during pruning. If you are able to find nearby juniper and red cedar trees and have neighbors that are willing to help with the cause - in late winter or early spring you can prune and remove brown, woody galls found before orange, gelatinous structures that form in the spring. This will help reduce the level of infection on nearby Rosaceae plants like your serviceberry. Fungicides are not recommended since serviceberries are a resource for wildlife, birds and bees. Your question about serviceberries with rust being less desirable to the birds is challenging. It is recommended that people do not eat serviceberries affected by rust. I have read both that rust does not effect wildlife and that birds will naturally avoid berries with rust. My inclination is to think that the birds would not be interested in the berries affected by rust but I would be curious to know if you have seen a decreased bird population around your serviceberry since you started noticing the rust. I know that things like rust can be frustrating to deal with, especially given your goals with this plant. I wish you the best!
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Selecting a Maple for full sun
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 28 - 1:05 am
- Hello! I have a little planting area in my front yard that gets sun pretty much all day long. I wanted to plant a Japanese maple there but I know they don't all enjoy full sun. Are there any that would do okay in that situation? Also, I would prefer one that doesn't get too big. Thank you! Heather Maury
- A few things to think about when you are selecting a tree for this space are if the tree is being planted near sidewalks or a driveway, what your soil conditions are like, the amount of sun or shade it will get, and also remember to look up for power lines. Red maples are generally faster growers and are also native to our area, but they may have shallower root systems. Japanese maples tend to be slower growing but are not native. Sugar maples are also an option but you would want to be sure to select heat tolerant varieties for the Richmond area. Another alternative is Yellowwood. They have nice big leaves, beautiful form and flowers, tolerate the heat and don't get too big. The University of Illinois Extension has a great tree selector tool that you may also find useful: https://web.extension.illinois.edu/treeselector/search.cfm Good luck!
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Vegetables and Fruits for shady areas
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 28 - 1:00 am
- Are there any fruits or vegetables that would grow well in a pretty shady area? My property has a lot of trees but I would like to try growing edible plants if possible!
- Yes! There are a few vegetable options for shady areas: 1. Salad greens like arugula, spinach, endive and other lettuces. 2. Leafy Greens like swiss chard, collards, kale and mustard greens. 3. Root veggies like carrots, beets, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga and turnips. 4. Brassica veggies like broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and cabbage. 4. herbs The Fairfax Master Gardeners have a great article about shade tolerant fruits. In their article they say: "Gooseberries, red currants and elderberries are the most shade tolerant fruit we can grow in Virginia. Blueberries and some figs will produce a decent crop in light to moderate shade. Serviceberries, pawpaws and cherry trees are small, understory trees that can bear abundant crops." You can find the full article here: https://fairfaxgardening.org/shade-fruits/ Now is a great time to be planning your spring plantings! Happy Gardening!
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Crape Myrtle Bark Scale
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 28 - 12:46 am
- Other than digging up and destroying crape myrtles what is the next best solution for crape Myrtle scale?
- A systemic insecticide in the spring is the recommended treatment for Crape Myrtle Bark Scale (CMBS) . A soil drench of imidacloprid or dinotefuran is recommended when crape myrtles begin to leaf out in the spring, usually around April. Personally, I've had success with Bonide products and find them to be available at many local garden shops. Bonide has an annual tree and shrub product that has an active ingredient of imidacloprid. (Other insecticide recommendations from the extension office are available here: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/456/456-017/456-017.html) If you decided to go with an insecticidal soap spray, just be sure to refrain from applying it when pollinators or other beneficial insects such as ladybird beetles are present on the trees. If you would really prefer to stay away from insecticides, another control option is to lightly scrub the main trunks of crape myrtles with soapy water made with mild dish detergent and a stiff-bristled brush to kill and remove CMBS. This also removes some of the sooty mold and the loose exfoliating bark that shelters CMBS, exposing the scales to any spray treatments that may be applied. And finally, its important to check and be sure your control methods are working. To assess if a control treatment was effective or not: check for live CMBS by running a fingernail over the scales and looking for a pinkish-red fluid. Dead scales will be dry, but their white bodies may persist on the trunk and branches of crape myrtle until they weather off. Good luck!!
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Crepe Myrtle Bark Scale
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Date Posted: Thu, Feb 08 - 3:03 am
- Hello! Would you be able to recommend the best product for treating a severe case of Crepe Myrtle Bark Scale? The tree is about 5 years old and has been very healthy until last year when it got the scale. I have heard that it is best to treat with a systemic insecticide in the spring but there are a lot of products out there and the prices very quite a bit. Also if there is a better way to treat than an insecticide please let me know! Also a lot of the products recommend a treatment based on the trunk size if the crepe myrtle has multiple trunks do I add all the trunks up or should I treat based on a single trunk size? Thank you so much !
- These are great questions about Crepe Myrtle Bark Scale CMBS). I had to do a little bit of research myself to figure out how to best give you some guidance. A systemic insecticide in the spring does seem to be the recommended treatment. A soil drench of imidacloprid or dinotefuran is recommended when crape myrtles begin to leaf out in the spring, usually around April. Personally, I've had success with Bonide products and find them to be available at many local garden shops. Bonide has an annual tree and shrub product that has an active ingredient of imidacloprid. (Other insecticide recommendations from the extension office are available here: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/456/456-017/456-017.html) If you decided to go with an insecticidal soap spray, just be sure to refrain from applying it when pollinators or other beneficial insects such as ladybird beetles are present on the trees. Here are some guidelines for measuring the circumference of the tree trunk: 1. If it appears that a tree actually represents two or more trees that have their trunks pressing together, we measure the largest trunk. 2. If it appears that the tree tree is a single tree that splits below 4.5 feet, we measure at the narrowest point between the split and the ground. 3. If it appears that the tree tree is a single tree that splits above 4.5 feet, we measure the trunk at 4.5 feet. If you would really prefer to stay away from insecticides, another control option is to lightly scrub the main trunks of crape myrtles with soapy water made with mild dish detergent and a stiff-bristled brush to kill and remove CMBS. This also removes some of the sooty mold and the loose exfoliating bark that shelters CMBS, exposing the scales to any spray treatments that may be applied. And finally, its important to check and be sure your control methods are working. To asses if a control treatment was effective or not: check for live CMBS by running a fingernail over the scales and looking for a pinkish-red fluid. Dead scales will be dry, but their white bodies may persist on the trunk and branches of crape myrtle until they weather off.
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Browning Dwarf Arborvitae
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Date Posted: Wed, Oct 11 - 12:47 am
- Dwarf Arborvitae has brown sections, on am effort to cut them out, it appears black underneath. What is happening? Thank you.
- I'm sorry you are having these concerns with your Dwarf Arborvitae. The first thing that comes to my mind is canker. Canker is infected wounds in the branches caused by fungi. Wounds can be caused by pruning, storm damage, cold damage, or excessive wetness. In plants with canker, you will observe yellow to reddish-brown branches in the middle of healthy green branches. Closer to base of the branch you may see slightly sunken, reddish cankers with profusely exuding resin. Black pustule-like fruiting bodies known as pycnidia may be seen breaking through the bark. There is no real treatment for canker stem diseases. The fungus survives in infected bark tissues, so it is best to prune all infected branches about 3-4 inches below the canker area. Spread of the fungus can be minimized by sterilizing any blades used between all cuts with a 10 percent bleach or 70 percent alcohol solution. Try to prevent damage to trees. Stressed and wounded plants are more likely to be infested. It is best to keep dwarf trees as open as possible so that they will dry out after rain. Prune to allow air flow in plants. Clean out leaves from the insides of shrubs. Do not bury plants too deep in mulch. Prune out infected branches and fertilize affected trees if needed. Good luck!!
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Maples for Urban Landscaping?
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Date Posted: Thu, Sep 28 - 12:43 pm
- I need to replace a diseased Dogwood. I was thinking of a Maple tree but I am concerned of the root system. There are so many varieties of Maple, I don’t know where to start. The new tree would be giving shade to a front porch and two Hydrangeas. Can you give some guidance?
- This is a great question. Generally, maples are known to have shallower root systems, but it can depend a lot on the soil conditions. A few things to think about when you are selecting a tree for this space are if the tree is being planted near sidewalks or a driveway, what your soil conditions are like, the amount of sun or shade it will get, and also to look up for power lines. Red maples are generally faster growers and are also native to our area, but they may have shallower root systems. Japanese maples tend to be slower growing but are not native. Sugar maples are also an option but you would want to be sure to select heat tolerant varieties for the Richmond area. Another alternative is Yellowwood. They have nice big leaves, beautiful form and flowers, tolerate the heat and don't get too big. The University of Illinois Extension has a great tree selector tool that you may also find useful: https://web.extension.illinois.edu/treeselector/search.cfm Good luck!