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Growing Tulips
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Date Posted: Fri, Mar 21 - 1:01 am
- I have a beautiful pre-planted set of tulips that I would like to plant in my garden. I am wondering if I should put them in a pot or plant them in the ground. What are the ideal soil conditions, watering regimen, and how much sunlight should they get? My front yard gets great partial sun and my backyard gets full sun. Thank you in advance for your help!
- Tulips are beautiful! What a great addition to your garden! Here are some tips to give your tulips the best chance of thriving, whether you choose a pot or in-ground planting. Planting in a Pot or in the Ground? Pot: Great if you want to control soil conditions and move them around for optimal light. Just make sure it has good drainage. Ground: Ideal for long-term growth, although some tulips may not return year after year in Virginia’s warm climate due to the lack of a cold dormancy period. If you want to replant them for future years, the ground is best. If you just want them for this season and might replace them next year, a pot is a great choice. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by pre-planted, but if they are already in a pot, I would leave them there for now and let them bloom. The ideal time to plant tulip bulbs is in the fall, generally late October to early December. They have a tendency to rot in warm, wet conditions. Ideal Soil Conditions: Tulips hate wet feet and need well-draining soil. To achieve this, it is best to amend heavy clay with sand or compost in order to improve drainage. They also like slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0–7.0). (You could pick up a soil test kit from one of the Richmond libraries to find out what your pH is!). Watering Needs: Water well after planting to help them establish roots. During growth, only water if the soil is very dry - tulips prefer dry conditions between watering. After blooming, reduce watering as the the foliage dies back to prevent bulb rot. Sunlight Requirements: Full sun (backyard) is ideal, especially for strong blooms next year. Partial sun (front yard) is okay, but tulips bloom better with at least 6 hours of direct sun. If you plant in a pot, you can move them to maximize sunlight exposure. Extra Tips: If you want them to return next year, wait until the leaves completely yellow and die back before cutting them—this allows energy to return to the bulb. Tulips sometimes don’t rebloom well in warm climates like Virginia, so many gardeners treat them as annuals and replant fresh bulbs each fall. The variety you select can have a big impact on this. Choose good quality, large bulbs with a reputation for dependability. Consider Darwin, Triumph or Emperor varieties. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Growing Herbs
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 03 - 11:09 pm
- How to grow healthy Herb plant? Plants like Basil, cilantro, Rosemarys.
- Growing herbs is so rewarding! I love having what I need for a recipe growing outside the back door! Basil, cilantro, and rosemary each have their own needs, so here’s a quick guide to help them thrive: Basil: Loves warmth and the sun and needs at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, prefers well-draining, nutrient-rich soil, keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy — water when the top inch feels dry, pinch off the top leaves regularly to encourage bushy growth and prevent flowering (which can make the leaves bitter), snip stems just above a leaf pair — this helps the plant grow fuller. Cilantro: Prefers cooler weather and about 4–6 hours of sun, this is a great spring and fall plant but typically doesn't survive in Virginia summers, too much heat can make it bolt (flower) quickly, likes loose, well-drained soil with some compost mixed in, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogging, cilantro grows fast — consider planting seeds every few weeks for a continuous harvest. Rosemary: Thrives with at least 6–8 hours of full sun, prefers sandy, well-drained soil — it hates sitting in water, let the soil dry out between waterings. Rosemary prefers to stay on the drier side, trim regularly to keep the shape and encourage new growth, there is a lot of Rosemary in our area that survives the winter, but its not a big fan of winter and does best if its in a warm sunny spot or you could bring it inside for the winter. Happy gardening! Enjoy your herbs!
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Selecting grass for lawn
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Date Posted: Fri, Jan 31 - 3:46 pm
- Hello Richmond Master Gardeners, I would love your expertise on what type of grass I should plant in my backyard, which is almost entirely bare. I live in the Chamberlayne Farms neighborhood in Northern Henrico, and our soil is very soft. Our lot backs up to woods, and the back of our house faces north east, so we get very little sunlight back there. Thanks, Sam Prescott
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners for help with your yard. For lawns in our region, tall fescue is the best choice. Southern States offers a blend specifically formulated for shady areas, which may be a great option for you. We also highly recommend getting a soil test to better understand what your lawn needs to thrive. Soil test kits are available at many Richmond Public Library branches, and you can also check with the Henrico Master Gardeners for locations in your area. A soil test will provide valuable insights into any necessary amendments, such as adding lime or applying a starter fertilizer with the right balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For best results, fertilize just before seeding. When it comes to timing, fall is the best season for planting cool-season grasses like tall fescue. Once you've spread the seed, be sure to keep the soil consistently moist with light watering every day until germination, which typically takes about two weeks. For more detailed guidance, the Piedmont Master Gardeners have a fantastic article on growing turfgrass in central Virginia. You can check it out here: https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/22408-2/. If you need help selecting products, Southern States has knowledgeable associates who can assist you in choosing the right seed and fertilizers for your yard. If you're open to alternatives beyond grass, you might consider a woodland garden or a shade-friendly native plant landscape. These options can provide beauty, ecological benefits, and reduced maintenance compared to traditional lawns. There are many possibilities, from native ground covers to ferns, wildflowers, and understory shrubs. You can explore options in the Virginia Native Plant Society's regional native plant guide (https://vnps.org/virginia-native-plant-guides/), which provides recommendations suited to our local conditions. Henrico might also have Master Gardeners willing to come out for a home consult if this is an option you are interested in pursuing! Happy planting, and let us know if you have any other questions!
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Starting a garden in a city apartment
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Date Posted: Mon, Sep 16 - 12:40 am
- I want to start gardening more seriously but I live in a city apartment with no ability to open my windows. I still have sunlight though, what kind of small plants are good to start with in this situation?
- There are plenty of options for small plants that can thrive indoors. Indoor plants are such a great way to brighten your space and clean your air. Here are a few great options to get you started: 1. Herbs: Many herbs grow well indoors with sunlight. Some easy ones to start with are basil, mint, parsley, and chives. They’re compact, easy to care for, and perfect for adding fresh flavor to your cooking. 2. Succulents and Cacti: These are ideal for small spaces and don’t require much maintenance. Plants like aloe vera and jade plant thrive in sunlight and only need occasional watering. 3. Spider Plant: A hardy plant that tolerates a range of indoor conditions. It’s also great for air purification and is easy to grow in small pots. 4. Snake Plant: Also known as Sansevieria, it’s a low-maintenance plant that does well in indirect sunlight and can thrive in indoor conditions without open windows. 5. Pothos: This vining plant is highly adaptable, tolerating low to bright indirect sunlight. It’s also great for small spaces, as it can trail from shelves or hang from a small pot. 6. Microgreens: If you want to grow something edible, microgreens like radish, sunflower, or pea shoots are fast-growing, require little space, and only need sunlight and water. This is a great time of year to be thinking about adding some plants inside! It will be so nice to have them around as we transition into winter. Just ensure they get the sunlight they need, and water them according to their specific needs.
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Blueberries and Lavender
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:37 pm
- Hello, I have 3 questions - I have blueberry bushes that were not properly tended to over the summer heat. They produced lovely berries but since have grown scraggly and I need to trim them back. Is there a proper time and way to do this? I have attempted several times to take cuttings and start new plants. Failed every time. Any suggestions? I have lavender plants in front of the blueberry bushes. They are half alive and half dead. Do I need to move them? I am thinking it is from the overgrowth of limbs from the blueberry bushes but not certain. I am presently in the tedious process of soaking the ground in the evenings and pulling the grass and weeds that surround them. I appreciate your help.
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! You have several great questions that we will do our best to give you some guidance on: 1. When to prune blueberry bushes: The best time to prune blueberries is in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing helps the bush recover and grow new shoots for the coming season. You could also have done some light pruning after harvesting, particularly if you noticed any dead or diseased branches. Regular, light pruning is usually better than infrequent, heavy pruning. Always make clean cuts and avoid leaving stubs, as these can become entry points for pests or diseases. 2. How to prune blueberry bushes: Start by cutting out any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. This helps improve air circulation and reduces the risk of pests and diseases. If the bush is very dense, selectively remove some of the older, thicker branches from the center of the plant to improve airflow and light penetration. This encourages better fruit development. Blueberry bushes produce the most fruit on new growth. Cut back older branches that are more than 6 years old to promote the growth of new, fruitful shoots. Aim for a well-rounded shape, which helps the bush maintain balance and supports better fruit production. Trim to keep the bush to a manageable size and shape, typically removing no more than a third of the plant's height in one season. During the growing season, you can also trim any overly vigorous shoots that might be crowding the plant, encouraging a more balanced structure. 3. Using cuttings to start new plants: The best time to take blueberry cuttings is from late summer to early fall when the wood is semi-hard but not yet fully mature. Choose cuttings from healthy, vigorous plants. Look for shoots that are not too old or too young. Ideally, the cuttings should be from the current season's growth and about 4-6 inches long. If possible, select shoots that haven't flowered, as they will have more energy to put into growing roots. - Preparing Cuttings: Make a clean cut just below a node (the point where leaves attach to the stem). This is where the roots are most likely to develop. Strip off the lower leaves, leaving a few at the top. This reduces moisture loss and encourages root growth. Although optional, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone can improve the chances of successful rooting. Rooting hormone is available in powder, gel, or liquid form. -Planting: Use a well-draining rooting medium like a mix of peat moss and perlite or sand. You can also use a commercial rooting mix. Insert the cuttings into the rooting medium about 1-2 inches deep. Firm the soil around them to ensure good contact. -Care: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water the cuttings gently to avoid displacing them. Cover the cuttings with a plastic bag or place them in a greenhouse or a propagation chamber to maintain high humidity. Ensure the cover does not touch the cuttings to avoid mold. Place the cuttings in a location with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can be too intense for young cuttings. -Transplanting: After about 8-12 weeks, check for root development by gently tugging on the cuttings. If you feel resistance, roots have formed. Rooting can take time, so be patient and avoid disturbing the cuttings too soon. Once roots are established, transplant the cuttings into small pots with a potting mix suitable for blueberries or a mix of peat and perlite. Gradually acclimate the young plants to outdoor conditions by exposing them to more light and outdoor temperatures over a couple of weeks. 4. Caring for lavender plants: Lavender plants can be a bit finicky, but several common issues could be causing them to struggle or die. Here are a few things to think about: Lavender needs well-draining soil. Heavy, clayey, or waterlogged soils can lead to root rot. Consider improving drainage by adding sand or gravel to the soil, or planting in raised beds or containers with good drainage. Lavender prefers slightly alkaline to neutral soil, ideally with a pH between 6.7 and 7.3. You can test your soil’s pH with a kit and amend it if necessary. Lavender is drought-tolerant and doesn’t like to sit in wet soil. Water sparingly and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause root rot and other issues. While lavender prefers less frequent watering, it still needs some moisture, especially in hot, dry conditions. Ensure it gets enough water during prolonged dry spells. Lavender requires full sun to thrive, which means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If it’s not getting enough light, it can become leggy and weak. Lavender generally prefers temperate climates. Extreme cold or heat can stress the plant Lavender doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer. Fungal diseases like root rot, powdery mildew, and rust can affect lavender. Ensure proper spacing for air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce disease risk. Lavender benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape and health. Prune after flowering to remove spent blooms and encourage new growth. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems, as they may not regenerate. Blueberries and lavender can be successfully planted together, but there are a few things to think about to ensure both plants thrive. Both blueberries and lavender prefer acidic to neutral soil. Blueberries thrive in a pH of 4.5 to 5.5, while lavender prefers a pH of around 6.7 to 7.3. This difference in pH requirements means you’ll need to find a balance or be prepared to amend the soil appropriately. Both plants need full sun to grow well. Ensure they receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Both plants require well-draining soil. Blueberries are prone to root rot in poorly drained soils, and lavender, though drought-tolerant, also dislikes wet feet. Blueberries need consistent moisture, especially during the growing season, whereas lavender prefers drier conditions and is more tolerant of drought. Overwatering can lead to issues for both plants, so careful watering practices are necessary. We hope this will give you some guidance for moving forward. Happy gardening!
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Philodendon with Root Rot
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Date Posted: Thu, Jun 15 - 11:35 am
- Hello, I have a Philodendron Deja Vu. It has shed all but one remaining leaf, which appears to be getting too dry. It has three root sections (not sure the proper word) the other too appear to have some root rot. Is it possible to repot the section with the one remaining leaf? Is there anything else I can do to help it survive and thrive again or is it a goner?
- Hello, I'm sorry to hear your philodendron is struggling. Based off of what you have said, I'm concerned the plant may be getting over watered leading to leaf spot and/or root rot. Leaf spot is common with philodendrons and starts with leaves turning yellow and then eventually brown. Typically, it is due to damp and soggy soil from over watering that allows bacteria and fungus to thrive. To treat this, stop watering the plant and apply two spoons of baking soda mixed with soap water on the affected parts and keep the plant out of direct sunlight. Soggy soil can also lead to root rot. The best way to treat root rot is to change the soil immediately and be sure to use a well draining soil mix (similar to what you would use for a cactus). Let the soil dry out some in between waterings, using the finger knuckle test to determine if the plant needs water or not. Most of our local plant nursery's also have extremely helpful staff members that will look at your plant if you bring it in and make more specific suggestions, or even repot it for you. Good luck!
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Pests
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Date Posted: Sat, Jul 23 - 4:51 pm
- What's wrong with my tomatoes? I've been gardening for years, but have never seen this issue with tomatoes before. This is my first time gardening in Hanover, VA. I believe the space has been used for gardening before. I didn't do a soil test. The only soil amendment has been bloodmeal. All of my tomatoes, regardless of size, look fine while green, but as they ripen, they appear to have white spots underneath the skin. When I cut them open, they all have a sort of white pithiness throughout the outer flesh just under the skin. The flavor is okay but the skins are tough and crunchy, and it's consistent throughout the 6 varieties I've planted. I haven't seen any issues with the foliage. I'm really stumped on this one but I am wondering if this is a new-to-me disease or an outcome of inconsistent watering (due to some unforeseen circumstances, they're largely surviving on what falls from the sky plus one weekly watering). I saw a few earlier in the season that have blossom end rot, but these ones don't have decay at the blossom end. Any thoughts? Thanks for your insights!
- Hello there, this does sound discouraging!! I have to admit that I have never had this issue but I did a little research and found some resources that may help you. The first website is from Texas A&M. It's useful because it shows pictures of ripe fruit in trouble and identifies the problem. I'm making a guess that Cloudy Spot might be your issue. Of course, I must emphasize that this is a guess, having never seen the problem you describe firsthand. Cloudy Spot indicates stink bug infestation--https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/problem-solvers/tomato-problem-solver/ripe-fruit/. If that's right, the VA Tech website has a video on how to trap the culprit--https://vtx.vt.edu/articles/2019/10/Stink_bug_Media_Advisory2019.html, I like this solution because there is no chemical insecticide involved. The trap in the video was created to trap the bugs in homes but can easily be used in the garden as well. If my guess is wrong, you have another option. VA Tech has a plant disease clinic where samples can be tested and identified. Because Richmond City does not currently have an extension agent due to a staffing vacancy, you can contact the Chesterfield office and get the details on submitting samples. There is a $35 fee as well as paperwork that must be submitted with the sample(s). You can contact them at this email address-- Chesterfield MG Help Desk: vce@chesterfield.gov. Best of luck sorting this out!!
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Transplanting Hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Fri, Nov 05 - 1:58 pm
- I have hydrangeas in a partial sun location, mostly afternoon, and they have never done very well with adequate watering and fertilization If I’m going to move them to a new location, what scenario should they be in and are there any specific times that are better to move them?
- Greetings! Thank you for your question. Now is a great time to transplant your hydrangeas (Fall season), while the plants are dormant. Plant your hydrangeas in an area that gets morning sun, and afternoon shade. Hydrangeas do not like the hot afternoon sun we have here in Richmond in the summer months, and that may be why they have not done well in their current location. When you transplant, be sure and select a location that will drain well, and amend your soil with plenty of compost. Be sure and dig the hole large enough to accommodate the entire root ball. Water the hydrangea well once you place it in the new location. As you know, hydrangeas love to be watered in the warmer months, and they love nutrient-rich, composted soil. If they are planted near larger plants or trees, they may be competing for water during the warm months, and it will be important to keep them moist (but well drained). Good luck with your fall gardening!
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Ambrosia beetles-Dogwoods
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Date Posted: Tue, Oct 05 - 4:24 pm
- Ambrosia beetles-dogwoods
- Hello again, I have a few questions about your trees. I'm wondering how they were diagnosed. Did you see the frass tubes (kind of looks like tooth picks) on the trunk? Was there blue staining in the sapwood when they were removed? You may also have seen 'sawdust' at the base from the process of tunneling in the entry holes. Those would be definite indicators of the beetle. Generally, they attack trees under stress, such as drought or lack of appropriate amounts of scheduled watering. The pests may have been in the trees when you purchased them from the nursery. If so, the guarantee from the nursery may cover your loss. Assuming the reason your trees failed was due to ambrosia beetle and not another pest or disease, the arborist I consulted said that planting in the same location would be fine. I don't believe they have created any trees to be resistant to the ambrosia beetle. That being said, I think the chief thing is to provide the best cultural environment for the trees to survive. Well-draining soil is key along with proper placement and watering until the trees are established. Without knowing the exact environment you are planting in it would be difficult to recommend a particular tree. Look online for a list of native trees for this area and then consider the location you have and whether or not that tree would be a good fit. Consider the amount of light, moisture, available space for mature height, etc. Sorry those dogwoods didn't make it. Best of luck with your next choice.
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Yellow Spots on Rhododendron Leaves
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 2:01 pm
- My large rhododendrons have some yellow specked leaves. Been watering every other day. What are you suggestions
- Hello! Thanks for your question. Given our recent warm and humid weather conditions, the problem you are having with your rhododendron is certainly not uncommon. I suspect your plant has a fungal condition called leaf septoria (yellow leaf spot). It sounds as though the condition on your plants is not widespread at this point and there are a few steps you should take to rid your plants of this fungus. First, remove the affected leaves to get rid of as many fungal spores as possible. Secondly, take away any fallen leaves from under the plant and keep the area clean. Discard all removed leaves in the trash (not compost). Mulch the area under your rhododendrons; this helps prevent spores from spreading. It will also help retain/absorb the water when you are watering the plants, and reduce splash upwards. And when you water, it’s best to use a soaker hose at the base of your plants, versus overhead watering. Watering overhead and watering in the evening can increase fungal disease development on these plants. You can also apply a simple, all natural spray solution consisting of the following: one quart of water in spray bottle with 1 teaspoon of baking soda; add 1/2 teaspoon of canola oil and a few drops of dish soap; shake the solution well and spray on the plants. Good luck with this - improved weather conditions in the coming weeks hopefully will help as well! Let us know if you have further questions. Thanks! And of course keep a close eye on your other grow bags with your other vegetables for any similar signs. Good luck with your garden, and wishing you a strong yield!