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Declining Rose Bushes
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 20 - 12:18 am
- We have a row of drift roses out from for the last 8 years, last year once bush died totally after pruning and was replaced but two others appear to have dying branches in places but are blooming in others. Do you have any recommendations? They previously were huge and bloomed all summer.
- Thank you for reaching out about your drift roses. After 8 years, it’s not uncommon to see some decline in vigor, and the symptoms you’re describing (a bush dying after pruning, and others showing partial dieback while still blooming) may have several contributing factors. Possible Causes Age & Natural Decline: Drift roses, while hardy, often start to lose vigor after 7–10 years. Decline in individual plants can be expected over time. Pruning Stress: If roses are pruned too severely or at the wrong time (late fall/early winter), it can stress the plant and increase vulnerability to dieback. Canker or Dieback Disease: Fungal cankers can cause branches to brown and die back while other parts of the shrub continue to bloom. Look for discolored, sunken, or shriveled stems. Root Stress: After many years in the same spot, soil compaction, poor drainage, or root competition from nearby shrubs can weaken roses. Environmental Stress: Last winter’s cold snaps, summer drought, or inconsistent watering can also contribute. Recommendations Inspect the Canes: Cut into affected stems. If the wood inside is brown rather than green/white, prune those branches back to healthy tissue. Sterilize pruners between cuts (70% alcohol or 10% bleach solution). Monitor for Pests/Disease: Check for signs of fungal cankers, crown gall, or borers. Mulch & Soil Health: Refresh mulch to 2–3 inches (but keep away from the crown). Consider lightly amending with compost to improve soil structure and nutrients. Watering Practices: Provide consistent deep watering during dry spells, especially since stressed plants are more susceptible to disease. Rejuvenation Option: If more bushes continue declining, you may want to replace them gradually. Consider rotating in disease-resistant shrub roses or other flowering shrubs to diversify and reduce the chance of future loss. Since one plant has already died and others are showing decline, you may be at the natural replacement stage for part of the row. Healthy roses can last many years, but staggered replacement every few years can keep the planting full and vibrant.
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Serviceberry TLC
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 31 - 10:56 pm
- My service berry tree has split bark in several places and there may be insects in the bark. There are many yellow leaves. The tree doesn’t look healthy. I planted it in the fall. Is there anything I can do to save it?
- Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your serviceberry tree is experiencing some stress, but we’ll do our best to help you support its recovery. Yellowing leaves can indicate a few things: transplant shock, water stress, or even nutrient deficiency. This is common in newly planted trees as they adjust to their environment. Split bark can also be a sign of environmental stress like rapid temperature changes in winter (known as frost cracks or sunscald), mechanical injury (e.g., weed trimmers or animals), and overwatering or underwatering. Unfortunately, splits in the bark can make the tree more susceptible to insect or disease invasion. If you see insects, they may be opportunists rather than the primary cause. What You Can Do: Inspect the trunk: Look closely at any insects you find. If you can, take a clear photo to try to ID. Mulch properly: Place a 2–3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it a few inches away from the trunk) to regulate soil temperature and moisture. Water consistently: Deeply water once a week during dry periods. Avoid overwatering—serviceberries prefer moist but well-drained soil. Prune carefully: Remove any obviously dead or damaged branches, but avoid heavy pruning during stress periods. Avoid fertilizer for now: Wait until the tree is more stable before fertilizing. It may take some time for your serviceberry to bounce back, but with proper care and monitoring, it could still recover. We wish you the best! For more information, check out: https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/serviceberry/
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Amaryllis TLC
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 31 - 11:27 am
- I have a plant that I think is an Amaryllis (it belonged to my grandmother). It has never bloomed and the stems are very droopy. Do you have suggestions for how to care for it and encourage it to bloom? Or is it a different plant? Thank you!
- Thank you for your question—and how special to have a plant that belonged to your grandmother! From your photo, it does appear to be an amaryllis, especially given the long, strap-like leaf. If it's never bloomed and the foliage is droopy, a few adjustments in care might help encourage healthier growth and eventually, blooms. Here are a few tips to support your amaryllis: Light: Amaryllis need bright, indirect sunlight to thrive. If it's indoors, try placing it near a sunny window. Without enough light, the leaves may become elongated and floppy. Watering: Water sparingly—the bulb doesn’t like to stay soggy. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, and make sure the pot drains well. Potting: Make sure the bulb is planted in well-draining soil and that about one-third of the bulb remains above the soil line. A snug pot is best—just about 1 inch wider than the bulb. Bloom Encouragement: Amaryllis often need a dormancy period to bloom. In late summer or early fall, you can: Stop watering and allow the leaves to die back naturally. Move the pot to a cool, dark place (around 50–55°F) for 6–8 weeks. After the rest period, bring it back into the light, resume watering, and it should begin new growth—with a bloom soon to follow! We hope these suggestions will help you enjoy a happy, blooming amaryllis for years to come!
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Preparing new garden beds for planting
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 15 - 10:50 pm
- I need to landscape front garden beds. what’s best to place on top of area for two months. Are tarps weighed down w/bricks okay? Arborist chips clean? I’m old so I want something easy/low maintenance. Planning on native perennials and grasses, a few shrubs/service berry.
- Thank you for your question! It sounds like you're off to a great start with a thoughtful plan for a low-maintenance, native landscape. Both of the options you suggested are great ideas for prepping your beds for planting. 1. Tarps: Yes, tarps weighed down with bricks or secured with lawn staples can work well to smother weeds and prevent new growth before planting. This method is known as "occultation." It’s easy, effective, and doesn't require much labor. Just make sure the tarp is opaque and tightly secured to prevent wind from getting underneath. I have personally had success with using black plastic and lawn staples, and am able to re-use the black plastic when I'm ready to expand the garden. 2. Arborist Wood Chips: Fresh arborist chips are also a great option, especially for a native planting. They help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and gradually improve soil as they break down. It’s fine to apply them now even if they’re “green” (fresh)—just keep them 3–6 inches deep and avoid piling them right against any existing stems or trunks. You can combine both methods too: tarp the area now, then remove the tarp and add arborist chips once you’re ready to plant. Native perennials, grasses, and a few shrubs like serviceberry are perfect choices for a low-maintenance, pollinator-friendly garden. Once established, they should need minimal watering and upkeep. Happy gardening!
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Indoor Bamboo
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 10 - 12:16 am
- My bamboo leaves has brown tips. It is potted inside my home in dirt. It's not in direct sunlight and I water once every other week. I wonder if the tap water had too much fluoride. Please advise.
- Thank you for your question about your indoor bamboo plant! Brown tips on bamboo leaves are a common issue and can result from a few different factors. Based on your description, here are some possibilities to consider: 1. Water Quality (Fluoride or Chlorine) You're right to wonder about your tap water—bamboo can be sensitive to fluoride, chlorine, and other chemicals commonly found in municipal water. Over time, these can build up in the soil and damage the leaf tips. To help with this: Try using distilled water, rainwater, or water that has been left to sit out for 24–48 hours (which allows chlorine to dissipate). You can also occasionally flush the soil with clean, non-fluoridated water to help remove any buildup. 2. Low Humidity Indoor air—especially with heating or AC—can be quite dry. Bamboo prefers higher humidity levels. Mist your plant regularly or place a shallow tray of water and pebbles beneath the pot to increase humidity. Grouping plants together can also raise the local humidity level. 3. Underwatering Watering once every other week may not be enough, depending on your home's temperature, humidity, and the plant's container size. Brown tips can be a sign of inconsistent moisture. Try checking the soil weekly. If the top inch is dry, it's time to water. Bamboo likes consistently moist (but not soggy) soil. 4. Light Levels While bamboo doesn't need direct sunlight, it does need bright, indirect light to thrive. If your plant is in a very low-light spot, consider moving it closer to a window with filtered light. 5. Salt or Fertilizer Buildup Over time, salts from tap water or fertilizer can accumulate in the soil and damage roots. If you've been fertilizing, consider cutting back and flushing the soil with clean water occasionally. Hope these ideas will help you out!
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Bitterness in Cucumbers
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 01 - 1:28 am
- I'm growing cucumbers for the first time this year, and so far have only harvested a few. They are heirloom straight 8 cucumbers I started from seed. I'm harvesting them at about 6 inches long. I cut the ends off when I slice them to avoid bitterness, but they still seem to taste quite bitter and soapy. I'm not spraying them with anything, and I was them well with water when I harvest them. What might be making them bitter?
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! Bitterness in cucumbers—especially heirloom varieties like Straight 8—is a fairly common issue, although frustrating, and it’s usually due to the natural compounds called cucurbitacins. A few reasons you might be experiencing bitterness: First off, we have to think about environmental stress, especially given the extreme heat and big down pours we have been having. Cucurbitacin levels tend to rise when the plants are under stress and common stressors for cucumbers include: Inconsistent watering (periods of drought followed by heavy watering), high temperatures, and also poor soil fertility or nutrient imbalance. Straight 8 cucumbers tend to be prone to bitterness, especially in hot and dry conditions. Try to keep soil moisture even by watering regularly (especially during hot spells), and consider using mulch to conserve moisture and keep soil temps steady. There's a chance your cucumbers are sitting on the vine a little too long and getting a little overripe. If you notice any yellowing of the skin or a hard waxy exterior, they are likely getting a little too ripe. You could try harvesting a little sooner, maybe when they are 5 inches, to see if that helps. As you already seem to know, the bitter components are most concentrated at the the stem end, in the skin and just under the skin. In addition to trimming the end of off, you could try peeling the cucumbers. I've also heard of people soaking them in cold salted water for about 40 minutes once they are peeled. I haven't tried this myself, but I've heard it helps to reduce the bitterness. Their are some hybrid varieties that are bred to reduce bitterness. If none of the above ideas help you to reduce bitterness, you could try growing a hybrid variety next time and see if that helps. Good luck! We hope you are able to enjoy your cucumbers!
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Growing Tulips
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Date Posted: Fri, Mar 21 - 1:01 am
- I have a beautiful pre-planted set of tulips that I would like to plant in my garden. I am wondering if I should put them in a pot or plant them in the ground. What are the ideal soil conditions, watering regimen, and how much sunlight should they get? My front yard gets great partial sun and my backyard gets full sun. Thank you in advance for your help!
- Tulips are beautiful! What a great addition to your garden! Here are some tips to give your tulips the best chance of thriving, whether you choose a pot or in-ground planting. Planting in a Pot or in the Ground? Pot: Great if you want to control soil conditions and move them around for optimal light. Just make sure it has good drainage. Ground: Ideal for long-term growth, although some tulips may not return year after year in Virginia’s warm climate due to the lack of a cold dormancy period. If you want to replant them for future years, the ground is best. If you just want them for this season and might replace them next year, a pot is a great choice. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by pre-planted, but if they are already in a pot, I would leave them there for now and let them bloom. The ideal time to plant tulip bulbs is in the fall, generally late October to early December. They have a tendency to rot in warm, wet conditions. Ideal Soil Conditions: Tulips hate wet feet and need well-draining soil. To achieve this, it is best to amend heavy clay with sand or compost in order to improve drainage. They also like slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0–7.0). (You could pick up a soil test kit from one of the Richmond libraries to find out what your pH is!). Watering Needs: Water well after planting to help them establish roots. During growth, only water if the soil is very dry - tulips prefer dry conditions between watering. After blooming, reduce watering as the the foliage dies back to prevent bulb rot. Sunlight Requirements: Full sun (backyard) is ideal, especially for strong blooms next year. Partial sun (front yard) is okay, but tulips bloom better with at least 6 hours of direct sun. If you plant in a pot, you can move them to maximize sunlight exposure. Extra Tips: If you want them to return next year, wait until the leaves completely yellow and die back before cutting them—this allows energy to return to the bulb. Tulips sometimes don’t rebloom well in warm climates like Virginia, so many gardeners treat them as annuals and replant fresh bulbs each fall. The variety you select can have a big impact on this. Choose good quality, large bulbs with a reputation for dependability. Consider Darwin, Triumph or Emperor varieties. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Growing Herbs
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 03 - 11:09 pm
- How to grow healthy Herb plant? Plants like Basil, cilantro, Rosemarys.
- Growing herbs is so rewarding! I love having what I need for a recipe growing outside the back door! Basil, cilantro, and rosemary each have their own needs, so here’s a quick guide to help them thrive: Basil: Loves warmth and the sun and needs at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, prefers well-draining, nutrient-rich soil, keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy — water when the top inch feels dry, pinch off the top leaves regularly to encourage bushy growth and prevent flowering (which can make the leaves bitter), snip stems just above a leaf pair — this helps the plant grow fuller. Cilantro: Prefers cooler weather and about 4–6 hours of sun, this is a great spring and fall plant but typically doesn't survive in Virginia summers, too much heat can make it bolt (flower) quickly, likes loose, well-drained soil with some compost mixed in, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogging, cilantro grows fast — consider planting seeds every few weeks for a continuous harvest. Rosemary: Thrives with at least 6–8 hours of full sun, prefers sandy, well-drained soil — it hates sitting in water, let the soil dry out between waterings. Rosemary prefers to stay on the drier side, trim regularly to keep the shape and encourage new growth, there is a lot of Rosemary in our area that survives the winter, but its not a big fan of winter and does best if its in a warm sunny spot or you could bring it inside for the winter. Happy gardening! Enjoy your herbs!
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Selecting grass for lawn
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Date Posted: Fri, Jan 31 - 3:46 pm
- Hello Richmond Master Gardeners, I would love your expertise on what type of grass I should plant in my backyard, which is almost entirely bare. I live in the Chamberlayne Farms neighborhood in Northern Henrico, and our soil is very soft. Our lot backs up to woods, and the back of our house faces north east, so we get very little sunlight back there. Thanks, Sam Prescott
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners for help with your yard. For lawns in our region, tall fescue is the best choice. Southern States offers a blend specifically formulated for shady areas, which may be a great option for you. We also highly recommend getting a soil test to better understand what your lawn needs to thrive. Soil test kits are available at many Richmond Public Library branches, and you can also check with the Henrico Master Gardeners for locations in your area. A soil test will provide valuable insights into any necessary amendments, such as adding lime or applying a starter fertilizer with the right balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For best results, fertilize just before seeding. When it comes to timing, fall is the best season for planting cool-season grasses like tall fescue. Once you've spread the seed, be sure to keep the soil consistently moist with light watering every day until germination, which typically takes about two weeks. For more detailed guidance, the Piedmont Master Gardeners have a fantastic article on growing turfgrass in central Virginia. You can check it out here: https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/22408-2/. If you need help selecting products, Southern States has knowledgeable associates who can assist you in choosing the right seed and fertilizers for your yard. If you're open to alternatives beyond grass, you might consider a woodland garden or a shade-friendly native plant landscape. These options can provide beauty, ecological benefits, and reduced maintenance compared to traditional lawns. There are many possibilities, from native ground covers to ferns, wildflowers, and understory shrubs. You can explore options in the Virginia Native Plant Society's regional native plant guide (https://vnps.org/virginia-native-plant-guides/), which provides recommendations suited to our local conditions. Henrico might also have Master Gardeners willing to come out for a home consult if this is an option you are interested in pursuing! Happy planting, and let us know if you have any other questions!
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Starting a garden in a city apartment
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Date Posted: Mon, Sep 16 - 12:40 am
- I want to start gardening more seriously but I live in a city apartment with no ability to open my windows. I still have sunlight though, what kind of small plants are good to start with in this situation?
- There are plenty of options for small plants that can thrive indoors. Indoor plants are such a great way to brighten your space and clean your air. Here are a few great options to get you started: 1. Herbs: Many herbs grow well indoors with sunlight. Some easy ones to start with are basil, mint, parsley, and chives. They’re compact, easy to care for, and perfect for adding fresh flavor to your cooking. 2. Succulents and Cacti: These are ideal for small spaces and don’t require much maintenance. Plants like aloe vera and jade plant thrive in sunlight and only need occasional watering. 3. Spider Plant: A hardy plant that tolerates a range of indoor conditions. It’s also great for air purification and is easy to grow in small pots. 4. Snake Plant: Also known as Sansevieria, it’s a low-maintenance plant that does well in indirect sunlight and can thrive in indoor conditions without open windows. 5. Pothos: This vining plant is highly adaptable, tolerating low to bright indirect sunlight. It’s also great for small spaces, as it can trail from shelves or hang from a small pot. 6. Microgreens: If you want to grow something edible, microgreens like radish, sunflower, or pea shoots are fast-growing, require little space, and only need sunlight and water. This is a great time of year to be thinking about adding some plants inside! It will be so nice to have them around as we transition into winter. Just ensure they get the sunlight they need, and water them according to their specific needs.