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Cherry tree dropping leaves
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 11 - 11:37 am
- Need assistance with a cherry tree losing leaves. He did not see black spots or holes in leaves, thinks heat may be a factor.
- Thank you for contacting the Master Gardener Help Desk. Heat and drought stress can certainly cause cherry trees to lose leaves, particularly during the hot, dry conditions we've experienced this summer. When trees become stressed, they may shed older leaves to conserve water. However, leaf drop can also be caused by diseases such as cherry leaf spot, bacterial leaf spot, or other environmental stresses. Since you did not observe black spots or holes in the leaves, those diseases may be less likely, but it can be difficult to determine the cause without examining the tree and the fallen leaves. In the meantime, make sure the tree receives adequate water during dry periods. A mature tree generally benefits from a slow, deep watering when rainfall is lacking rather than frequent shallow watering. Applying a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it several inches away from the trunk) can also help conserve soil moisture and moderate soil temperatures. If the tree is otherwise healthy and the leaf drop is due to heat stress, it should recover once environmental conditions improve. Avoid fertilizing or pruning the tree while it is under stress. If the problem continues, or if you notice spots on the leaves, dead branches, oozing bark, or other symptoms, it is likely more than an environmental problem. Photos of the entire tree, the trunk, and both the upper and lower surfaces of affected leaves would be especially helpful in narrowing down the cause. You can email photos to rvamastergardeners@gmail.com
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Reviving a snake plant
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 11 - 11:28 am
- Hi! I am desperately trying to save this snake plant. Is there anything that can be done to return it to its former glory.
- Thank you for including a photo! The good news is that your snake plant (Dracaena trifasciata, formerly Sansevieria) appears to be alive and actively growing. I can see several healthy new leaves and offsets ("pups"), so it has a good chance of recovering. The older leaves that have fallen over will not become upright again. Once a snake plant leaf bends or creases, it will remain that way. You can prune those damaged leaves off at the base using clean scissors or pruners. This allows the plant to direct more energy toward healthy new growth. Your plant also appears to have several offsets and may be crowded in its current pot. While repotting, inspect the roots and rhizomes. Healthy roots are firm and light-colored. Remove any soft, mushy, or blackened roots, which may indicate rot, and repot in a container with a drainage hole using a well-draining potting mix formulated for succulents or cacti. If desired, the offsets can be divided and potted separately. The leaves are longer and more arching than is typical for a snake plant, which often indicates it has been growing in lower light. While snake plants tolerate low-light conditions, they develop stronger, more upright growth in bright, indirect light. Moving it to a brighter location (avoiding harsh afternoon sun) should help encourage sturdier new growth. Finally, be careful not to overwater. Allow the potting mix to dry completely between waterings, and never let the pot sit in standing water. Overwatering is the most common cause of problems with snake plants. With a little cleanup, fresh potting mix, and brighter light, your plant should continue producing healthy new leaves. It may take several months for the new growth to fill in and restore the full appearance of the plant.
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Watering while out of town
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Date Posted: Mon, Jul 27 - 8:28 pm
- This may seem an odd request. We are leaving our Bon Air home for a rare two-week getaway on 8/1. We are concerned about some of our bedding plants that are not irrigated. We hand water throughout the week. Do you know of anyone who might be interested in stopping by a few times to water while we are away? We are located within the City limits near Old Gun Road across from St. Edwards. Thanks for taking the question!
- Thanks for reaching out with your question! Unfortunately, we don't have a list of volunteers or services that provide watering assistance while homeowners are away. You could consider installing a simple drip irrigation system on a timer. Many affordable options are available for both in-ground beds and container gardens, and they can be a great way to keep plants watered during vacations or periods of hot, dry weather. I realize that isn't the immediate solution you were hoping for, but I hope it's a helpful idea for the future. I hope you're able to find someone to help, and that you have a wonderful trip!
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"Suckering" trees
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Date Posted: Wed, Jun 10 - 1:26 am
- Hi - we have a couple of trees that look to have “suckers” of varying lengths (an example shown below). Would an arborist be able to assist with removing these growths safely and helping to minimize future growths?
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners, and for including a very helpful photo! The growth you’re seeing are called “suckers” or epicormic shoots. In your case, these are vigorous shoots coming from the lower trunk. While the leaf shape looks consistent with the rest of the tree, the green color (compared to the purple canopy above) suggests this growth may be coming from the rootstock rather than the grafted top. You are correct to want to remove these, as they can take energy away from the upper canopy and, over time, may outcompete the desired growth if left unmanaged. If you are comfortable with pruning, many homeowners find they can remove these themselves keeping a few things in mind. First, be sure to prune each shoot back as close to the trunk as possible (don’t leave stubs). Stubs will create more suckers. Always use clean, sharp pruners. It is best to remove the suckers while they are still relatively longer. For larger or very dense growth like you have, an arborist can certainly help, but it’s not strictly necessary if you’re comfortable pruning. To help reduce future suckering: 1. Continue removing shoots promptly when they appear 2. Avoid heavy pruning of the upper canopy, which can stimulate more growth 3. Keep the tree healthy with proper watering and mulch (but avoid piling mulch against the trunk) From what I can tell from your photo, this appears to be a purple-leaf redbud, which is often grafted onto a standard green-leaf redbud rootstock. The rootstock naturally produces green leaves and tends to grow more vigorously, which seems to be what you’re seeing here. More broadly, trees often produce suckers in response to stress or disruption. Common triggers include heavy pruning or canopy loss, damage to roots or trunk (from lawn equipment, construction, etc.), environmental stress, such as drought or poor soil conditions, planting issues (like being planted too deeply or having mulch piled against the trunk), and natural growth habit of certain species or rootstocks If these shoots continue to return aggressively, it may just be the nature of the rootstock, but it can also be worth checking for any underlying stress factors.
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Pruning Camillias
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Date Posted: Wed, Apr 08 - 11:33 pm
- Good morning. My Camellia trees that are very mature just finished blooming. I would like to do a hard cut back to about 2 feet tall to reshape. With them blooming so late in the season may I do that now? The trees are greater than 20 years old and very healthy. Their shape is just gotten off over the years.
- Thank you for reaching out to the master gardeners! You are actually in the perfect window to prune since your camellias have just finished blooming. Camellias, even mature ones like yours, are generally very tolerant of hard pruning, so cutting them back to around 2 feet (a rejuvenation prune) is acceptable, especially since they are healthy and well established. That said, you should expect to lose blooms for next season because you’ll be removing developing buds, and the plants may look a bit sparse or uneven at first as they push out new growth over the next one to two growing seasons. When pruning, try to make cuts just above a leaf node or lateral branch, and after pruning, support recovery with consistent watering and mulch rather than heavy fertilization right away. If you’d prefer a more gradual approach, you could also reduce the size over two years by removing a portion of the older wood each season. Overall, your camellias should respond well, it will just be a bit of a reset before they fill back in beautifully. This is a great general resource about pruning put out by the Virginia Extension office: https://www.cmgv.org/images/References/Pruning%20Calendar%202019.pdf
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Declining Rose Bushes
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 20 - 12:18 am
- We have a row of drift roses out from for the last 8 years, last year once bush died totally after pruning and was replaced but two others appear to have dying branches in places but are blooming in others. Do you have any recommendations? They previously were huge and bloomed all summer.
- Thank you for reaching out about your drift roses. After 8 years, it’s not uncommon to see some decline in vigor, and the symptoms you’re describing (a bush dying after pruning, and others showing partial dieback while still blooming) may have several contributing factors. Possible Causes Age & Natural Decline: Drift roses, while hardy, often start to lose vigor after 7–10 years. Decline in individual plants can be expected over time. Pruning Stress: If roses are pruned too severely or at the wrong time (late fall/early winter), it can stress the plant and increase vulnerability to dieback. Canker or Dieback Disease: Fungal cankers can cause branches to brown and die back while other parts of the shrub continue to bloom. Look for discolored, sunken, or shriveled stems. Root Stress: After many years in the same spot, soil compaction, poor drainage, or root competition from nearby shrubs can weaken roses. Environmental Stress: Last winter’s cold snaps, summer drought, or inconsistent watering can also contribute. Recommendations Inspect the Canes: Cut into affected stems. If the wood inside is brown rather than green/white, prune those branches back to healthy tissue. Sterilize pruners between cuts (70% alcohol or 10% bleach solution). Monitor for Pests/Disease: Check for signs of fungal cankers, crown gall, or borers. Mulch & Soil Health: Refresh mulch to 2–3 inches (but keep away from the crown). Consider lightly amending with compost to improve soil structure and nutrients. Watering Practices: Provide consistent deep watering during dry spells, especially since stressed plants are more susceptible to disease. Rejuvenation Option: If more bushes continue declining, you may want to replace them gradually. Consider rotating in disease-resistant shrub roses or other flowering shrubs to diversify and reduce the chance of future loss. Since one plant has already died and others are showing decline, you may be at the natural replacement stage for part of the row. Healthy roses can last many years, but staggered replacement every few years can keep the planting full and vibrant.
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Serviceberry TLC
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 31 - 10:56 pm
- My service berry tree has split bark in several places and there may be insects in the bark. There are many yellow leaves. The tree doesn’t look healthy. I planted it in the fall. Is there anything I can do to save it?
- Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your serviceberry tree is experiencing some stress, but we’ll do our best to help you support its recovery. Yellowing leaves can indicate a few things: transplant shock, water stress, or even nutrient deficiency. This is common in newly planted trees as they adjust to their environment. Split bark can also be a sign of environmental stress like rapid temperature changes in winter (known as frost cracks or sunscald), mechanical injury (e.g., weed trimmers or animals), and overwatering or underwatering. Unfortunately, splits in the bark can make the tree more susceptible to insect or disease invasion. If you see insects, they may be opportunists rather than the primary cause. What You Can Do: Inspect the trunk: Look closely at any insects you find. If you can, take a clear photo to try to ID. Mulch properly: Place a 2–3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it a few inches away from the trunk) to regulate soil temperature and moisture. Water consistently: Deeply water once a week during dry periods. Avoid overwatering—serviceberries prefer moist but well-drained soil. Prune carefully: Remove any obviously dead or damaged branches, but avoid heavy pruning during stress periods. Avoid fertilizer for now: Wait until the tree is more stable before fertilizing. It may take some time for your serviceberry to bounce back, but with proper care and monitoring, it could still recover. We wish you the best! For more information, check out: https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/serviceberry/
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Amaryllis TLC
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 31 - 11:27 am
- I have a plant that I think is an Amaryllis (it belonged to my grandmother). It has never bloomed and the stems are very droopy. Do you have suggestions for how to care for it and encourage it to bloom? Or is it a different plant? Thank you!
- Thank you for your question—and how special to have a plant that belonged to your grandmother! From your photo, it does appear to be an amaryllis, especially given the long, strap-like leaf. If it's never bloomed and the foliage is droopy, a few adjustments in care might help encourage healthier growth and eventually, blooms. Here are a few tips to support your amaryllis: Light: Amaryllis need bright, indirect sunlight to thrive. If it's indoors, try placing it near a sunny window. Without enough light, the leaves may become elongated and floppy. Watering: Water sparingly—the bulb doesn’t like to stay soggy. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, and make sure the pot drains well. Potting: Make sure the bulb is planted in well-draining soil and that about one-third of the bulb remains above the soil line. A snug pot is best—just about 1 inch wider than the bulb. Bloom Encouragement: Amaryllis often need a dormancy period to bloom. In late summer or early fall, you can: Stop watering and allow the leaves to die back naturally. Move the pot to a cool, dark place (around 50–55°F) for 6–8 weeks. After the rest period, bring it back into the light, resume watering, and it should begin new growth—with a bloom soon to follow! We hope these suggestions will help you enjoy a happy, blooming amaryllis for years to come!
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Preparing new garden beds for planting
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 15 - 10:50 pm
- I need to landscape front garden beds. what’s best to place on top of area for two months. Are tarps weighed down w/bricks okay? Arborist chips clean? I’m old so I want something easy/low maintenance. Planning on native perennials and grasses, a few shrubs/service berry.
- Thank you for your question! It sounds like you're off to a great start with a thoughtful plan for a low-maintenance, native landscape. Both of the options you suggested are great ideas for prepping your beds for planting. 1. Tarps: Yes, tarps weighed down with bricks or secured with lawn staples can work well to smother weeds and prevent new growth before planting. This method is known as "occultation." It’s easy, effective, and doesn't require much labor. Just make sure the tarp is opaque and tightly secured to prevent wind from getting underneath. I have personally had success with using black plastic and lawn staples, and am able to re-use the black plastic when I'm ready to expand the garden. 2. Arborist Wood Chips: Fresh arborist chips are also a great option, especially for a native planting. They help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and gradually improve soil as they break down. It’s fine to apply them now even if they’re “green” (fresh)—just keep them 3–6 inches deep and avoid piling them right against any existing stems or trunks. You can combine both methods too: tarp the area now, then remove the tarp and add arborist chips once you’re ready to plant. Native perennials, grasses, and a few shrubs like serviceberry are perfect choices for a low-maintenance, pollinator-friendly garden. Once established, they should need minimal watering and upkeep. Happy gardening!
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Indoor Bamboo
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 10 - 12:16 am
- My bamboo leaves has brown tips. It is potted inside my home in dirt. It's not in direct sunlight and I water once every other week. I wonder if the tap water had too much fluoride. Please advise.
- Thank you for your question about your indoor bamboo plant! Brown tips on bamboo leaves are a common issue and can result from a few different factors. Based on your description, here are some possibilities to consider: 1. Water Quality (Fluoride or Chlorine) You're right to wonder about your tap water—bamboo can be sensitive to fluoride, chlorine, and other chemicals commonly found in municipal water. Over time, these can build up in the soil and damage the leaf tips. To help with this: Try using distilled water, rainwater, or water that has been left to sit out for 24–48 hours (which allows chlorine to dissipate). You can also occasionally flush the soil with clean, non-fluoridated water to help remove any buildup. 2. Low Humidity Indoor air—especially with heating or AC—can be quite dry. Bamboo prefers higher humidity levels. Mist your plant regularly or place a shallow tray of water and pebbles beneath the pot to increase humidity. Grouping plants together can also raise the local humidity level. 3. Underwatering Watering once every other week may not be enough, depending on your home's temperature, humidity, and the plant's container size. Brown tips can be a sign of inconsistent moisture. Try checking the soil weekly. If the top inch is dry, it's time to water. Bamboo likes consistently moist (but not soggy) soil. 4. Light Levels While bamboo doesn't need direct sunlight, it does need bright, indirect light to thrive. If your plant is in a very low-light spot, consider moving it closer to a window with filtered light. 5. Salt or Fertilizer Buildup Over time, salts from tap water or fertilizer can accumulate in the soil and damage roots. If you've been fertilizing, consider cutting back and flushing the soil with clean water occasionally. Hope these ideas will help you out!