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Stunted vegetable garden

    Date Posted: Sat, Aug 12 - 6:55 pm

    Question

  • My vegetable garden has been stunted in its growth this summer and I’ve been trying to figure out what I can do differently. I think we may have some Red Thread in the yard.
  • Answer

  • I think many local vegetable gardens have experienced some stunting this year. The prolonged cooler weather we had at the beginning of the summer seemed to have a big impact on plants that were put in the ground in late April and May. In addition, we have had several periods with very little rain to help keep gardens watered which has also been having an impact. Before planting next year, its a good idea to do a soil test to see where your soil could use some support. Soil tests are available through the master gardeners at your local library. You can use these results to ensure you are planting in a robust healthy soil that is ready to provide a good home to your plants. Also, if you aren't already doing this, I would suggest fertilizing your garden with an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizers slowly release nutrients giving a steady supply of food to your plants without disrupting the work of earthworms and other beneficial organisms. Follow the recommendations on the label for frequency of fertilizing. I'm not aware of nor have I been able to find any literature on red thread having an impact on anything other than turf grass. I'm not sure if you mentioned that in correlation with your concerns about your vegetable garden or as a separate concern. However, if you were looking for recommendations to deal with the red thread as well, fungicides are not usually advised for red thread control on residential turf for various reasons. The disease is largely cosmetic. Unless environmental conditions that promote disease development persist for extended periods, the turf will recover — usually with no lasting effects of infection. Good luck and happy gardening!

Ilex glabra-Inkberry

    Date Posted: Thu, Apr 20 - 8:37 pm

    Question

  • We planted 5 ilex glabra bushes in October. One of them suddenly (within less than 12 hours) had it's leaves turn brown/black and fall off. The stalks and stems all seem fine, and it still has some leaves on one side. The other ones all seem fine, although they haven't grown much and have a few yellow/brown leaves. Do you know what happened and what we can do to protect the plants? Thank you!
  • Answer

  • Hello there, Sorry to hear of your situation. Unfortunately, it's difficult to diagnosis from this distance. It could be soil, possibly chlorosis, maybe spider mites. First, I would contact the garden center where you purchased your plants. Often, plants are guaranteed for a year. So if you have proof of purchase I would definitely tell them about the condition of your shrubs, what they advise and what they can do for you. You could also check in with one of the Master Gardeners that man the help desks at the library branches. Check out your local library and find out what days and times the help desk is manned. It may still be difficult to diagnose without seeing the actual planting. Bring pictures and as much information about where the shrubs are situated. You can also get a kit for a soil test from the Master Gardeners, which may be helpful to ensure the future health of the 10 plants. There is also a plant clinic but again, I would start with the garden center where you made your purchase. And, of course, check in with a Master Gardener. They are a wonderful resource.

Camellia Pruning

    Date Posted: Thu, Mar 02 - 4:57 pm

    Question

  • We have a camelia bush in our front yard that is as old as our house. It’s probably 25 ft wide at its widest. It’s in desperate need of a trim, but I have no idea how to do that! I don’t want To harm the bush at all, but I know it needs to be trimmed. I can provide pictures if helpful!
  • Answer

  • Hello there, so you have a very happy camellia on your hands. I'm going to guess it's a japanese camellia, flowering from mid-winter to early spring. The other popular variety is camellia sasanqua, which flowers in late summer, fall or early winter (depending on selection) and is generally smaller and looser than the japanese varieties. Either way you want to wait until after the plant blooms to prune (otherwise you'll miss the bloom period). Of course, if that isn't you uppermost concern and you just want to get it under control, then anytime can work. I'm attaching an article from Southern Living magazine that describes a pruning method I think will work for you. The method basically treats the shrub as a tree which would decrease your time and effort of trying to prune such a large plant back to shrub proportions. Here is the article. The last paragraph is the key. https://www.southernliving.com/garden/shrubs/when-to-prune-camellias As always use sharp clean pruners and pruning saws so disease isn't transferred to the new cuts you'll be making. Good luck and happy gardening!

Peonies

    Date Posted: Mon, Dec 05 - 4:49 pm

    Question

  • I planted two peony bushes late spring and they looked good until now. They appear to be sickly. What should I do? Are they blighted and must be destroyed? Thx
  • Answer

  • Hello there, What you are seeing is perfectly natural. Peonies are herbaceous perennials, meaning they die back every year in fall, re-grow in spring and produce those gorgeous blooms. So simply cut the stems back and rake up any debris around the plants and they will bloom for you once again in spring. They are one of the longest lasting perennials you can plant and pretty much carefree once their soil preference is met (fertile. humusy soil). Please do not destroy them. They will reward you with blooms for years to come. Enjoy!

Powdery mildew?

    Date Posted: Fri, Oct 07 - 7:05 pm

    Question

  • Hi. We have a white film on the leaves of two poppy plants we transplanted over a year ago. Cosmetically, it's not pretty. But don't know if it's harmful. It is only in the last 6 months that the film has appeared. They're under a dogwood tree, didn't know if that affected them. Can you tell me if this is harmful, and if it will impact the blooms? I don't see any buds so I fear this is a problem for the plants.
  • Answer

  • Hello there, It sounds to me that you are dealing with powdery mildew. It's a very common fungal problem, heat and humidity aid its progress. It generally doesn't kill the plant, the plant just doesn't look it's best. I don't know which type of poppy you have but I'm guessing it's one of the oriental poppies (papaver orientale), that bloom in spring? You may want to consider transplanting the poppies to a spot in full sun with good air circulation. Cut back the foliage at the end of the season and dispose of it in the trash (not the compost pile). You don't want to be harboring the spores over winter. With some more sun and air, I think you will enjoy those poppies more. Good luck!

Pests

    Date Posted: Sat, Jul 23 - 4:51 pm

    Question

  • What's wrong with my tomatoes? I've been gardening for years, but have never seen this issue with tomatoes before. This is my first time gardening in Hanover, VA. I believe the space has been used for gardening before. I didn't do a soil test. The only soil amendment has been bloodmeal. All of my tomatoes, regardless of size, look fine while green, but as they ripen, they appear to have white spots underneath the skin. When I cut them open, they all have a sort of white pithiness throughout the outer flesh just under the skin. The flavor is okay but the skins are tough and crunchy, and it's consistent throughout the 6 varieties I've planted. I haven't seen any issues with the foliage. I'm really stumped on this one but I am wondering if this is a new-to-me disease or an outcome of inconsistent watering (due to some unforeseen circumstances, they're largely surviving on what falls from the sky plus one weekly watering). I saw a few earlier in the season that have blossom end rot, but these ones don't have decay at the blossom end. Any thoughts? Thanks for your insights!
  • Answer

  • Hello there, this does sound discouraging!! I have to admit that I have never had this issue but I did a little research and found some resources that may help you. The first website is from Texas A&M. It's useful because it shows pictures of ripe fruit in trouble and identifies the problem. I'm making a guess that Cloudy Spot might be your issue. Of course, I must emphasize that this is a guess, having never seen the problem you describe firsthand. Cloudy Spot indicates stink bug infestation--https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/problem-solvers/tomato-problem-solver/ripe-fruit/. If that's right, the VA Tech website has a video on how to trap the culprit--https://vtx.vt.edu/articles/2019/10/Stink_bug_Media_Advisory2019.html, I like this solution because there is no chemical insecticide involved. The trap in the video was created to trap the bugs in homes but can easily be used in the garden as well. If my guess is wrong, you have another option. VA Tech has a plant disease clinic where samples can be tested and identified. Because Richmond City does not currently have an extension agent due to a staffing vacancy, you can contact the Chesterfield office and get the details on submitting samples. There is a $35 fee as well as paperwork that must be submitted with the sample(s). You can contact them at this email address-- Chesterfield MG Help Desk: vce@chesterfield.gov. Best of luck sorting this out!!

Creeping phlox

    Date Posted: Tue, Jun 21 - 9:58 pm

    Question

  • My creeping phlox was planted about a month ago. When I bought it it had some dried out looking leaves. Now it is looking more dried out at the base and many leave are turning yellow. I am wondering if there is a way to save them?
  • Answer

  • Hello there, There are a couple of phloxes that could be described as creeping. There's moss phlox (phlox subulata), which is very short and creeps, there's creeping phlox (phlox stolonifera) which is taller and creeps, and there phlox divaricata also taller and creeps. However, I think they all suffer from similar problems so it may not really matter which one is in question. The plant could be suffering from some fungal disease or it could be a virus. A fungal issue could possibly be resolved. A viral problem cannot. It's impossible to know which issue you have without a diagnosis but you could try using a fungal spray (there are some less toxic sprays on the market that can be used safely if you avoid spraying when insects are busy) and if the plant rebounds you know that was the problem. If it doesn't rebound, it's viral and you should pull it up and dispose of it in the trash rather than compost. Sometimes compost won't kill the pathogen, so to be on the safe side I'd use the trash bin. Good luck! Let us know if you have further questions.

English Ivy

    Date Posted: Sun, Jun 05 - 1:10 am

    Question

  • Hi, I have a question about some plants in my backyard. I think I have some kind of ground ivy, and it has something wrong with it. I'm not sure if it's fungus or insect activity. The leaves have small “bubbles" where the leaves material has ballooned in places. Each bubble is the size of a pea. On the underside of the leaves, inside the bubbles, there are clusters of little white specks. I have pictures, but I'm unable to post them here. What is causing this? Do I need to do anything about it? Will it spread to other plants? Thanks!
  • Answer

  • Hello there, I am making an assumption that you are referring to English ivy. I haven't seen the problem you're describing myself but I found some information on the Virginia Tech website. Again, I based my search for information on the subject being English ivy. If you think it's something else you can try searching for it on this website. There are photos you can refer to when you get the search results. Here is the website address--https://apps.cals.vt.edu/ppig/ --Select Woody Ornamentals for Plant Type and English ivy for Plant Common Name. It should return 2 entries. One will be for Bacterial Leaf Spot and the other will be Anthracnose-a fungus. I hope this helps! Let us know if you have further questions.

Pests and diseases

    Date Posted: Mon, Apr 11 - 6:11 pm

    Question

  • Hi there, We just moved into our home last fall and I’m just getting into gardening. I have a few issues I’d love some help with, namely, treating leaf diseases on a young azalea with freeze damaged buds, a large overgrown camellia with what I think is tea scale and flower blight, and leaf spots on mophead hydrangeas. There’s so much information out there but would love help identifying these issues correctly and providing timely care while we’re still in early Spring. Thank you! Emily
  • Answer

  • Hello Emily, Good to hear you've inherited a nice garden. There is always a learning curve with a new garden. I think the best way to answer your questions is by using the Plant Disease Clinic. The Richmond VCE office is closed until a new agent is in place. In the meantime, the Chesterfield office is generously offering this service. The clinic does charge a fee of $35 for samples. I'm including a link to their office so you contact them directly for instructions on the process-- vce@chesterfield.gov Best of luck and happy gardening!

Pests & Disease -- Rosemary

    Date Posted: Mon, Feb 21 - 7:57 pm

    Question

  • I seem to have little brown nodules all over my Rosemary and it seems to be reducing its vigor and making the leaves look like they have aphids one them [the green is draining out of them]. Do you know what causes this? does it make the rosemary not good for eating? If I treat it, what would I use and how would it effect eating it? I coudl send a photo if that would help. Thank you. Lynn
  • Answer

  • Hello there, Based on your description I think the problem is bacterial leaf spot. I can't say for certain though. I've attached a link from the Missouri Botanical Garden about bacterial leaf spots and blights. If you open the link and scroll down, you'll find 2 photos of rosemary side by side. The one on the right may depict the problem you are encountering. Be sure to read all 8 items about prevention and control. You'll read that there is not much to be done if the plant is too far gone. You can try cutting the stems that are affected but be certain to clean your tools as directed in the article. Depending on the severity it may be wise to properly dispose of the plant and replace it with a healthy new one while adhering to all the points made about prevention. I hope this helps solve your problem. Sometimes replacement is the best choice https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/bacterial-spots.aspx