Master Gardener – Search
Searching: Disease
If you don't see the answer you're looking for, try submitting your question.
Pests
-
Date Posted: Sat, Jul 23 - 4:51 pm
- What's wrong with my tomatoes? I've been gardening for years, but have never seen this issue with tomatoes before. This is my first time gardening in Hanover, VA. I believe the space has been used for gardening before. I didn't do a soil test. The only soil amendment has been bloodmeal. All of my tomatoes, regardless of size, look fine while green, but as they ripen, they appear to have white spots underneath the skin. When I cut them open, they all have a sort of white pithiness throughout the outer flesh just under the skin. The flavor is okay but the skins are tough and crunchy, and it's consistent throughout the 6 varieties I've planted. I haven't seen any issues with the foliage. I'm really stumped on this one but I am wondering if this is a new-to-me disease or an outcome of inconsistent watering (due to some unforeseen circumstances, they're largely surviving on what falls from the sky plus one weekly watering). I saw a few earlier in the season that have blossom end rot, but these ones don't have decay at the blossom end. Any thoughts? Thanks for your insights!
- Hello there, this does sound discouraging!! I have to admit that I have never had this issue but I did a little research and found some resources that may help you. The first website is from Texas A&M. It's useful because it shows pictures of ripe fruit in trouble and identifies the problem. I'm making a guess that Cloudy Spot might be your issue. Of course, I must emphasize that this is a guess, having never seen the problem you describe firsthand. Cloudy Spot indicates stink bug infestation--https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/problem-solvers/tomato-problem-solver/ripe-fruit/. If that's right, the VA Tech website has a video on how to trap the culprit--https://vtx.vt.edu/articles/2019/10/Stink_bug_Media_Advisory2019.html, I like this solution because there is no chemical insecticide involved. The trap in the video was created to trap the bugs in homes but can easily be used in the garden as well. If my guess is wrong, you have another option. VA Tech has a plant disease clinic where samples can be tested and identified. Because Richmond City does not currently have an extension agent due to a staffing vacancy, you can contact the Chesterfield office and get the details on submitting samples. There is a $35 fee as well as paperwork that must be submitted with the sample(s). You can contact them at this email address-- Chesterfield MG Help Desk: vce@chesterfield.gov. Best of luck sorting this out!!
Question
Answer
Creeping phlox
-
Date Posted: Tue, Jun 21 - 9:58 pm
- My creeping phlox was planted about a month ago. When I bought it it had some dried out looking leaves. Now it is looking more dried out at the base and many leave are turning yellow. I am wondering if there is a way to save them?
- Hello there, There are a couple of phloxes that could be described as creeping. There's moss phlox (phlox subulata), which is very short and creeps, there's creeping phlox (phlox stolonifera) which is taller and creeps, and there phlox divaricata also taller and creeps. However, I think they all suffer from similar problems so it may not really matter which one is in question. The plant could be suffering from some fungal disease or it could be a virus. A fungal issue could possibly be resolved. A viral problem cannot. It's impossible to know which issue you have without a diagnosis but you could try using a fungal spray (there are some less toxic sprays on the market that can be used safely if you avoid spraying when insects are busy) and if the plant rebounds you know that was the problem. If it doesn't rebound, it's viral and you should pull it up and dispose of it in the trash rather than compost. Sometimes compost won't kill the pathogen, so to be on the safe side I'd use the trash bin. Good luck! Let us know if you have further questions.
Question
Answer
English Ivy
-
Date Posted: Sun, Jun 05 - 1:10 am
- Hi, I have a question about some plants in my backyard. I think I have some kind of ground ivy, and it has something wrong with it. I'm not sure if it's fungus or insect activity. The leaves have small “bubbles" where the leaves material has ballooned in places. Each bubble is the size of a pea. On the underside of the leaves, inside the bubbles, there are clusters of little white specks. I have pictures, but I'm unable to post them here. What is causing this? Do I need to do anything about it? Will it spread to other plants? Thanks!
- Hello there, I am making an assumption that you are referring to English ivy. I haven't seen the problem you're describing myself but I found some information on the Virginia Tech website. Again, I based my search for information on the subject being English ivy. If you think it's something else you can try searching for it on this website. There are photos you can refer to when you get the search results. Here is the website address--https://apps.cals.vt.edu/ppig/ --Select Woody Ornamentals for Plant Type and English ivy for Plant Common Name. It should return 2 entries. One will be for Bacterial Leaf Spot and the other will be Anthracnose-a fungus. I hope this helps! Let us know if you have further questions.
Question
Answer
Pests and diseases
-
Date Posted: Mon, Apr 11 - 6:11 pm
- Hi there, We just moved into our home last fall and I’m just getting into gardening. I have a few issues I’d love some help with, namely, treating leaf diseases on a young azalea with freeze damaged buds, a large overgrown camellia with what I think is tea scale and flower blight, and leaf spots on mophead hydrangeas. There’s so much information out there but would love help identifying these issues correctly and providing timely care while we’re still in early Spring. Thank you! Emily
- Hello Emily, Good to hear you've inherited a nice garden. There is always a learning curve with a new garden. I think the best way to answer your questions is by using the Plant Disease Clinic. The Richmond VCE office is closed until a new agent is in place. In the meantime, the Chesterfield office is generously offering this service. The clinic does charge a fee of $35 for samples. I'm including a link to their office so you contact them directly for instructions on the process-- vce@chesterfield.gov Best of luck and happy gardening!
Question
Answer
Pests & Disease -- Rosemary
-
Date Posted: Mon, Feb 21 - 7:57 pm
- I seem to have little brown nodules all over my Rosemary and it seems to be reducing its vigor and making the leaves look like they have aphids one them [the green is draining out of them]. Do you know what causes this? does it make the rosemary not good for eating? If I treat it, what would I use and how would it effect eating it? I coudl send a photo if that would help. Thank you. Lynn
- Hello there, Based on your description I think the problem is bacterial leaf spot. I can't say for certain though. I've attached a link from the Missouri Botanical Garden about bacterial leaf spots and blights. If you open the link and scroll down, you'll find 2 photos of rosemary side by side. The one on the right may depict the problem you are encountering. Be sure to read all 8 items about prevention and control. You'll read that there is not much to be done if the plant is too far gone. You can try cutting the stems that are affected but be certain to clean your tools as directed in the article. Depending on the severity it may be wise to properly dispose of the plant and replace it with a healthy new one while adhering to all the points made about prevention. I hope this helps solve your problem. Sometimes replacement is the best choice https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/bacterial-spots.aspx
Question
Answer
Pruning Hydrangea
-
Date Posted: Fri, Feb 18 - 12:22 am
- how far back can i cut my hydraingia
- Hello there, The first question I have is: why do you want to prune your hydrangea? The main reasons for pruning are that the plant is either too large or there is dead or possibly diseased wood that needs to be removed. The other question I have is what type of hydrangea are you thinking of pruning? There are numerous types and various species. I am going to assume that the plant in question is what is commonly known as a bigleaf hydrangea (because those seem to be the most prevalent variety). These typically have the mop-headed type of bloom or a lacecap bloom. Older varieties of these will only bloom on old wood but many of the newer varieties bloom on both old and new wood. The reason this distinction is important is that if you have a plant that blooms on old wood and you prune those stems you will be robbed of blooms come summer (you will have cut them off). That would be a shame. If you're not sure if you have a new or old variety, it is best to approach pruning very carefully. Attached is a link from a VA Tech publication with photos of both old and new stems so you can see the difference. Look for the heading in the publication that says Bigleaf Hydrangea and then scroll to the photo of the plant in winter to see which stems should be cut. While you are looking at the publication, review the other types of hydrangeas listed to be certain about the type you have. https://chesapeake.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/chesapeake_ext_vt_edu/files/pruning-hydrangeas.pdf. While you are pruning stems be sure to cut any that look dead or diseased. Clean your pruners after cutting diseased stems. Please keep in mind that you may not need to prune your hydrangea. If you enjoy the size it currently is and it doesn't seem to have any dead wood, you've saved yourself a gardening chore. Happy gardening!
Question
Answer
Strawberries Varieties for Richmond
-
Date Posted: Sun, Feb 13 - 9:09 pm
- What are the best varietals of strawberries to grow in RVA?
- Hello there, Glad to see that you are thinking Spring! You have a number of choices for this area. There are several types of strawberries: June-bearing, day neutral and ever-bearing. I believe you'll be most successful planting the June-bearing varieties here. The other two options are more suitable for cooler climates. Some basic requirements for fruiting are to make sure you're planting an area that gets full sun (usually 6-8 hours a day), most likely near to your vegetable garden. However, do not plant in sites where tomato, potato or eggplant were previously planted to keep down disease (verticillium wilt and some others). Be aware that strawberries will reproduce quickly, this can be both a pro and con depending on how much space you have. Clip the runners if you are most interested in having larger berries on the mother plant. It's often suggested that strawberries can be integrated into an ornamental garden but I've never had very good luck with that approach but feel free to experiment. They could make a nice ground cover in the right setting. Some recommended varieties from VA Tech are: June Bearing--Sweet Charlie, Camino Real, FlavorFest. Of course there is always our native strawberry from which many cultivars are produced--fragraria virginiana. If you would like more information on this subject, I've attached a link. https://ext.vt.edu/content/dam/ext_vt_edu/topics/agriculture/commercial-horticulture/small-fruit/fruits-in-the-home-garden.pdf. Best of luck with the berries!
Question
Answer
Ambrosia beetles-Dogwoods
-
Date Posted: Tue, Oct 05 - 4:24 pm
- Ambrosia beetles-dogwoods
- Hello again, I have a few questions about your trees. I'm wondering how they were diagnosed. Did you see the frass tubes (kind of looks like tooth picks) on the trunk? Was there blue staining in the sapwood when they were removed? You may also have seen 'sawdust' at the base from the process of tunneling in the entry holes. Those would be definite indicators of the beetle. Generally, they attack trees under stress, such as drought or lack of appropriate amounts of scheduled watering. The pests may have been in the trees when you purchased them from the nursery. If so, the guarantee from the nursery may cover your loss. Assuming the reason your trees failed was due to ambrosia beetle and not another pest or disease, the arborist I consulted said that planting in the same location would be fine. I don't believe they have created any trees to be resistant to the ambrosia beetle. That being said, I think the chief thing is to provide the best cultural environment for the trees to survive. Well-draining soil is key along with proper placement and watering until the trees are established. Without knowing the exact environment you are planting in it would be difficult to recommend a particular tree. Look online for a list of native trees for this area and then consider the location you have and whether or not that tree would be a good fit. Consider the amount of light, moisture, available space for mature height, etc. Sorry those dogwoods didn't make it. Best of luck with your next choice.
Question
Answer
Black-eyed Susan
-
Date Posted: Sat, Oct 02 - 4:51 pm
- Some of the leaves on my Black Eyed Susans have turned brown. Could this be a fungal infection? And if so, how can I treat it? Also, could you recommend a Black Eyed Susan that is disease resistant?
- Hello there, Without knowing the variety, I'm going to guess that it's Goldsturm, (it may not be but that is the most popular variety). These plants can succumb to fungal and bacterial issues. I can't specifically say what is ailing your plant but you can implement a few cultural changes to see if that helps. Your plants should have good drainage AND good air circulation. Soil and air would be the first factors to check. If you think you have that covered and the plant is not recovering it would be wise to remove the plant and discard it in the trash. If you have other plants that are in good health still you may want to treat them preemptively with a baking soda or neem spray. Additionally, if you want to plant again in that same spot where the ailing plant was you will need to use fresh soil in order to avoid a repeat of the situation. I came across a helpful list of species and cultivars of rudbeckia on a website of an organization based in Baltimore called Blue Water Baltimore. There are many other rudbeckias that may be more suitable for your particular situation. Here is the link--https://bluewaterbaltimore.org/blog/how-to-choose-a-black-eyed-susan/ There are many lovely varieties to choose from and those that can handle humidity would probably be a great choice. Good luck!
Question
Answer
Sckip Laurel wilting and drooping
-
Date Posted: Tue, Sep 07 - 4:11 pm
- I have some skip laurels that are wilting and drooping. There are two large shrubs in the midst of 30 total. One that is really bad is between two that are perfectly healthy. These were planted about 13 years ago. I lost one last year. That was a new plantings. This one is old and the surrounding shrubs are fine. I’d like to get a sample sent to a lab to test for a bacterial or fungal infection and or have someone come out to take a look I’m happy to take pictures and send it please let me know you can call me at 415-417-9997 that is my cell phone or email is fine too thanks look forward to your response.
- Hello there, Sorry to hear this. This plant is generally without problems as you know. I've reached out to an extension agent to get the process of getting your sample to the clinic in the works. It may take a little longer than usual since Richmond is without an agent at the moment. I've reached out to Henrico. If you don't see a posting here with that information in several days, please send me another email as a check in. Thanks for your patience. I hope we can get you the answer you need.