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Creeping phlox
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Date Posted: Tue, Jun 21 - 9:58 pm
- My creeping phlox was planted about a month ago. When I bought it it had some dried out looking leaves. Now it is looking more dried out at the base and many leave are turning yellow. I am wondering if there is a way to save them?
- Hello there, There are a couple of phloxes that could be described as creeping. There's moss phlox (phlox subulata), which is very short and creeps, there's creeping phlox (phlox stolonifera) which is taller and creeps, and there phlox divaricata also taller and creeps. However, I think they all suffer from similar problems so it may not really matter which one is in question. The plant could be suffering from some fungal disease or it could be a virus. A fungal issue could possibly be resolved. A viral problem cannot. It's impossible to know which issue you have without a diagnosis but you could try using a fungal spray (there are some less toxic sprays on the market that can be used safely if you avoid spraying when insects are busy) and if the plant rebounds you know that was the problem. If it doesn't rebound, it's viral and you should pull it up and dispose of it in the trash rather than compost. Sometimes compost won't kill the pathogen, so to be on the safe side I'd use the trash bin. Good luck! Let us know if you have further questions.
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Native Plants
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Date Posted: Mon, Apr 25 - 4:23 pm
- I’m interested in filling a mulched area in my yard in the city with native plants. Do you have any recommendations for layout and where to buy? I was hoping for a rain garden but it’s not enough space. It’s about 10 feet by 3 feet.
- Hello there! What a timely question. Master Gardeners are exploring this very subject on May 7th at the park at the Main Library between 1-4. There will be a presentation on invasive plants by the JRPS Invasive Plant Task Force followed by Master Gardeners presenting on native plants with plenty of time for questions and answers. Without knowing the orientation, amount of sun, and soil conditions, etc., it's difficult to make a suggestion for your planting. However, I would recommend making as many layers as possible-shade, understory, shrubs, perennials and groundcovers. I know it's not a large area but you would be surprised how many plants can inhabit a space that size. You could omit the shade tree perhaps and plant an understory or two-one at each end of the space. Then infill with a mix of shrubs and perennials and finally underplant with a groundcover or two. This diverse mix will be very attractive to many species of birds, mammals, insects, etc. Please come with your questions and curiosity on May 7th!!
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Pollinators
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Date Posted: Sat, Mar 26 - 12:31 am
- What can I do to keep white butterflies from my garden plants that need pollinators, such as squash.
- Hello there, The white butterflies you're referring to, are those active now in your garden? If so, those are cabbage white butterflies. The larvae of those butterflies tend to feed on cabbage, collards, kale and some other greens (Brassica family of plants). If you want to keep them away from these crops, fine netting is your best bet. The butterflies lay eggs underneath the host plant's leaves. The larvae are caterpillars whose coloring closely matches the host plant. They are voracious eaters so it's good to check the plants under the net to be sure none have escaped your notice. If you're looking to be sure to have pollinators for your squash plants be sure to plant a variety of herbs, flowers, shrubs and trees in your yard. Using native flowers and shrubs will provide pollen and nectar. Native shrubs and trees also provide shelter and nesting materials for bees and other beneficial insects. A variety of flower color and shape will attract a wider variety of pollinators. I hope I have answered your question. if not, please reach out again. Best of luck with your garden.
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Spider Sac on plant
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Date Posted: Sun, Oct 10 - 2:59 pm
- I have several long white strings of balls that looks like a moth cocoon or something from a plant in my backyard. Any idea what it is and if I should take it down? I wanted to submit a photo but it doesn't look like there's an option to do that. But they're about 2 in long and the balls look to be about the size of a very small pea and there's probably 8 or 10 of them hanging vertically in a string.
- Good morning! Thank you for your question. You have provided a very good description, and without actually seeing a picture, I'm guessing what you are seeing is a spider sac. Spider sacs can come in a variety of sizes and can range in color from white to yellowish to brown, and the individual sacs will be about the size of the spider which produced it. They typically appear as a thick netting of spider silk with multiple eggs inside, and can be found on plants. Some spiders make just one egg sac and others will make several small ones. You don't want to directly disturb a spider egg sac which has potentially viable eggs, or you risk releasing hundreds of small spiders. The best way to get rid of it is to first spray it with a mixture of 1/2 bleach and 1/2 water to kill the spiders/eggs. Use protective gloves and long sleeves. Once you spray it, you can then use an elongated tool to remove the sac (or you could cut that branch or leaves to which the sac is appended), and place in a plastic bag, tie it tightly, and throw it in the trash. Or you may choose to just leave the spider sac since it is outdoors, as it will not directly harm the plant, and may have some beneficial use in the garden (of course this depends on the type of spider). While spiders will not directly harm the plant, they do feed on both harmful as well as beneficial insects in the garden (including bees, butterflies, ladybugs). If what you have is in fact a spider sac, I would recommend getting rid of it to be on the safe side. Hope this helps, and happy gardening!
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Squash Vine Borers
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 24 - 1:57 am
- Hi there! Thank you so much for doing this! I have a couple questions on squash vine borers, which have been a HUGE issue in my garden this year. I have been surgically removing the larvae from my curcurbit vines every few days for over two months now (along the way losing both of my zucchini plants and one patty pan squash plant; now I have one patty pan and 4 pumpkin plants remaining). My questions are: How much longer should I expect new larvae to bore into my plants? And is there anything I can do next season to organically prevent these pests (or perhaps control them in a less laborious fashion!)?
- Hello! Thank you for your question. It sounds like you have had a challenging season with this difficult pest. Your surgical removal of the larvae is one part of the solution, and it sounds like you have mastered that particular process. There are other things you can do as well. To answer your first question, it is important to understand the lifecycle of the squash vine borer. Eggs will first appear in our area in May, will hatch in early summer, and then the larvae will bore into the squash stem to feed for up to 4 weeks. When the larvae are mature at 4-6 weeks, they will leave the vine and the dig 1-2 inches in the soil to pupate. In our climate, we can sometimes have 2 generations of larvae in a season. So unfortunately, once infested, this pest can present a problem for most of the growing season. In addition to the surgical removal process of the larvae in the stems, you can also use an organically approved insecticide such as Spinosad or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). Apply the product on the leaf stems and the main stem of the plant - do not spray the flowers. Apply one of these insecticides once per week during the growing season. It will kill the borer's eggs and larvae quickly. Again, these are organically approved products, and we recommend staying away from any synthetic, non-organic insecticides. Another method for prevention early in the season is to cover the young plants with a floating row cover until flowering occurs. The row cover will keep out the insect in the critical early part of the season, and will still allow sun, water, and air to get to the plant. Once flowering begins, remove the cover to ensure pollination is not disrupted. If or when you do have an infected vine(s), seal them in a plastic bag before the larvae pupate. This will break the lifecycle of the squash vine borer. And finally, the other important practice is to till under all crop debris after harvest, which also disrupts larvae in the soil, and prevents buildup of the squash borer population. Implementation of these practices should minimize the need for constant surgical removal of the larvae, and yield healthier plants and better crop. Good luck, and please reach out with any other questions!
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Squash Bug Control
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Date Posted: Sun, Aug 22 - 3:10 pm
- I have been having a hard year with squash bugs taking over my zucchini plants. I am wondering if you have any tips on how to prepare the soil this winter to decrease their activity next season. Thank you!
- Good morning! Thank you for your question. You are certainly a step ahead in that you have identified the pest, and have probably read about effective means to control and hopefully rid many of the insects during the growing season. Nevertheless, they are difficult to eradicate. You are smart to be thinking about ways to overwinter the garden to minimize the problem next spring. Do you use mulch around your zucchini plants? Mulches give adult squash bugs a place to overwinter, and you want to remove that mulch if you have used it. Straw is a better alternative to use around these plants in the growing season. As fall/winter approaches, you want to be sure and clean your garden of old vines, crop, and leaf debris where adult bugs will hide over the winter. Squash bugs will rarely survive cold winters without places to hide. However, Richmond has been known to have very mild winters, and you surely don't want to give these bugs a place to hide. Once you have removed all debris (and mulch, if you have it), till the soil. This also helps eliminate the pests. If you have the room in your garden (which most city properties do not), it is also helpful to rotate your crops year to year to keep down insect population. But the best thing to do is completely clear the garden of all debris for the winter, and till the soil. One tip for next spring/summer, is to place boards or old shingles on the ground next to the garden (especially at night time). Squash bugs love to hide under these, and they make excellent traps for collecting the bugs in the morning, and then placing the bugs in a bucket of soapy water. And of course, regular inspection during the early growing season to collect these bugs from your plants helps as well. But definitely follow the guidelines for garden cleanup and tilling to properly overwinter, and that will certainly get you off to a clean start in the spring!
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Ants-backyard
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 2:03 pm
- Our back yard looks to be infested with ants. Is there a safe way to eliminate them.
- Hello there, without too many details in your question, I'll try my best to answer. You didn't mention any plantings or a vegetable garden so I'm assuming you're referring to the lawn in your backyard. There are thousands of varieties of ants so I'll start by assuming you are referring to the small common black garden ant. Ants have a place in the world (aerating soil and eating yard debris, among other things) but if they are causing you a problem there are some simple ways to deal with them. If you can see them marching it will be useful to watch where they go. They will be going either towards a food source or a nest. Those will be the spots you'll want to treat. Diatomaceous earth (food grade), baking soda, and baby powder are sometimes used for ant control. They all serve the same function, dehydrating the ant's exoskeleton. I would recommend the diatomaceous earth because it's also a beneficial amendment to the soil, so it's doing two jobs at the same time. All of these products are relatively safe to use but remember that these items can also kill bees, lady bugs, parasitic wasps and other beneficial insects. Protect them as best you can by applying these products only when it's absolutely necessary, not dusting near beehives, applying late in the evening or at night when bees aren't foraging, and avoiding application to flowers and buds. Also, all of these products are irritants so apply when the air is still, wear a dust mask, goggles, gloves and long sleeves. This won't be an overnight solution and may need to be reapplied after a heavy rain. I hope this answers your question and you get to enjoy your yard again!
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Two Inch Holes In Garden - Squirrels or Chipmunks
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 2:02 pm
- Hello again, another quick question I have a couple of new holes in my garden (I've only owned my house since 6/19) they are approximately 2 inches in diameter. Are these little stash holes for my squirrels or chip monks? or some other troublesome critter wrecking havoc with my new hydrangea? Would some red pepper flakes dissuade them from their mischief? Thank you, Newly arrived Southern CA gardener
- Hello, thanks for your question! I've noticed more holes in my garden lately as well, and I've noticed the squirrels and chipmunks seem more active than usual. Fortunately, I've not noticed any plant damage, although I know they are capable. As you likely know, squirrels and chipmunks eat nuts, seeds, berries, plant bulbs, as well as some raw vegetables and fruits, as well as other things. If they are creating problems in certain areas of your garden, red pepper flakes, chili powder, and garlic powder are all good deterrants. Be aware that moles and voles can also be problematic in this area, and can be destructive in the garden. I mention these two creatures because they will also leave 2-3" holes in the yard. Moles burrow in the ground, eat grubs, worms, and insects, creating tunnels in the ground along the way. In addition to the holes, you will see tunnel mounds in your garden beds or turf. Voles have a vegetarian diet and will create similar holes, burrowing in the ground, eating plant roots. They will not create tunnels, but will damage or kill plants. Be on the lookout for signs of these creatures as well. It sounds like you just have squirrels or chipmunks creating these holes, and can be easily managed with the remedies mentioned above. If you encounter other issues or have other questions, please reach out to us!And of course keep a close eye on your other grow bags with your other vegetables for any similar signs. Good luck with your garden, and wishing you a strong yield!
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Leafminers...
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:46 pm
- My broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower has white vine like lines on the leaves. What are they and how do I get rid of them. My plants look like they are not thriving now.
- It sounds like you've got leafminers. They have a broad range of host plants and they seem to like your garden. The first thing to do is remove the affected leaves and dispose of them in the trash (not in compost). If you check the underside of the leaf you will most likely see small white eggs, you don't want those to hatch, so straight to the trash. There are several generations of this pest in one season so you will need to keep a close eye out for signs of their existence. You may see eggs, larvae and flys. Sometimes using sticky traps and row covers for the flies works well. If just removing the affected leaves isn't keeping the numbers down you might try using neem oil or beneficial insects such beneficial nematodes or parasitic wasps. I personally haven't had experience with beneficial insects as an intervention so I don't have any particular insight there. Start with removing the affected leaves and checking plants frequently for eggs and tunneling larvae. Good luck and good gardening!
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Tomato plants yellowing from bottom upwards
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:39 pm
- My tomato plants are dying from the bottom up! The the bottom branches start yellowing and looking dry and then die and then it begins creeping up the rest. Is there any hope for them?
- Hello there, This could be as simple a problem as too much or too little water. Or perhaps the top leaves are shading the bottom leaves and causing the yellowing because there isn't enough sunlight (about 8 hours). If this is the case, correct the watering and sun/shade issue (if possible) and remove the yellowed leaves so they don't unnecessarily drain the plant's energy. Tomatoes should have about 1-2 inches of water a week. It's best to water early in the day. Here are some other things to consider: Nutrients-Are they getting their nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium? This is key. Pests-you didn't mention seeing any insects but take a closer look. Are you planting your tomatoes in the same spot you've planted in past years (assuming you have)?- It's best to move your planting each year to avoid soil-born diseases. You didn't mention this but are there brown spots within the yellowing leaves? Possibly a fungus in the soil. What tomato varieties have you planted? Try heirlooms or those bred for resistance to wilts and blights. Good luck and keep us posted!