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Native landscaping
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Date Posted: Fri, Dec 06 - 4:13 pm
- Hello! I'm interested in making my property more sustainable by adding wildflower meadows and native plantings to support the wildlife. I am located in Manakin Sabot. If there are any book resources or other websites you would recommend I would greatly appreciate it. I am an architect by training and have considered getting more of an education in landscape design and horticulture to help make the biggest impact on our community through my projects, both at home and for others. Thanks so much!
- Hello! We love your passion for bringing more wildflowers and natives to your yard. A few resources for you to look into: Homegrown National Park: https://homegrownnationalpark.org/ and any books by Doug Tallamy. There is a guide for Native Virginia plants that you can reference: https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives. Lewis Ginter often offers classes about landscaping and natives and they currently have some spring classes available for sign up on their website. Moulton Hot Natives is also a very knowledgeable resource and a great place to get plants and seeds: https://moultonhotnatives.square.site/ Whenever you are in the city, I suggest driving by Amelia Street School. Behind the school are several different beautiful native beds that may give you some inspiration! I hope these resources will help get you started and you will have fun and learn a lot along the way!
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Fall/Winter Vegetables for the home garden
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Date Posted: Sun, Nov 03 - 8:07 pm
- Hello,i would like to know what type of vegetables in this time of year i can have in home conditions like a small garden? Thank you so much for respond and please if there is any useful resource that i can get some innovative idea please let me know i would really appreciate that,have a wonderful day. Thank you and have a flower day:)
- One of my favorite resources for vegetable gardening in Virginia is the Grow Great Vegetables in Virginia book by Ira Wallace and the Virginia Extension Home Garden Vegetable Planting guide is also an excellent resource: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/426/426-331/SPES-170.pdf Many people are still harvesting beans, broccoli, carrots, greens, etc from their fall gardens although it is a little late in the year to try to get these planted now. The thing to plant right now is garlic for a June harvest. (I always plant garlic around Halloween to harvest around Father's day) Because we have been having a very warm fall, you could still try to plant carrots, beets, winter radishes, spinach or kale and see if the weather cooperates for you. This is also a great time of year to start planning what you will plant as spring approaches! You can then think about what seeds you may want to purchase and if you have space to start seeds inside and if so gathering the supplies. I also recommend keeping an eye on our local garden nurseries (Sneeds, Great Big Greenhouse, Strange's) after the new year as many will have classes for vegetable gardening available. Lewis Ginter also offers great classes. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Starting a garden in a city apartment
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Date Posted: Mon, Sep 16 - 12:40 am
- I want to start gardening more seriously but I live in a city apartment with no ability to open my windows. I still have sunlight though, what kind of small plants are good to start with in this situation?
- There are plenty of options for small plants that can thrive indoors. Indoor plants are such a great way to brighten your space and clean your air. Here are a few great options to get you started: 1. Herbs: Many herbs grow well indoors with sunlight. Some easy ones to start with are basil, mint, parsley, and chives. They’re compact, easy to care for, and perfect for adding fresh flavor to your cooking. 2. Succulents and Cacti: These are ideal for small spaces and don’t require much maintenance. Plants like aloe vera and jade plant thrive in sunlight and only need occasional watering. 3. Spider Plant: A hardy plant that tolerates a range of indoor conditions. It’s also great for air purification and is easy to grow in small pots. 4. Snake Plant: Also known as Sansevieria, it’s a low-maintenance plant that does well in indirect sunlight and can thrive in indoor conditions without open windows. 5. Pothos: This vining plant is highly adaptable, tolerating low to bright indirect sunlight. It’s also great for small spaces, as it can trail from shelves or hang from a small pot. 6. Microgreens: If you want to grow something edible, microgreens like radish, sunflower, or pea shoots are fast-growing, require little space, and only need sunlight and water. This is a great time of year to be thinking about adding some plants inside! It will be so nice to have them around as we transition into winter. Just ensure they get the sunlight they need, and water them according to their specific needs.
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Blueberries and Lavender
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:37 pm
- Hello, I have 3 questions - I have blueberry bushes that were not properly tended to over the summer heat. They produced lovely berries but since have grown scraggly and I need to trim them back. Is there a proper time and way to do this? I have attempted several times to take cuttings and start new plants. Failed every time. Any suggestions? I have lavender plants in front of the blueberry bushes. They are half alive and half dead. Do I need to move them? I am thinking it is from the overgrowth of limbs from the blueberry bushes but not certain. I am presently in the tedious process of soaking the ground in the evenings and pulling the grass and weeds that surround them. I appreciate your help.
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! You have several great questions that we will do our best to give you some guidance on: 1. When to prune blueberry bushes: The best time to prune blueberries is in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing helps the bush recover and grow new shoots for the coming season. You could also have done some light pruning after harvesting, particularly if you noticed any dead or diseased branches. Regular, light pruning is usually better than infrequent, heavy pruning. Always make clean cuts and avoid leaving stubs, as these can become entry points for pests or diseases. 2. How to prune blueberry bushes: Start by cutting out any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. This helps improve air circulation and reduces the risk of pests and diseases. If the bush is very dense, selectively remove some of the older, thicker branches from the center of the plant to improve airflow and light penetration. This encourages better fruit development. Blueberry bushes produce the most fruit on new growth. Cut back older branches that are more than 6 years old to promote the growth of new, fruitful shoots. Aim for a well-rounded shape, which helps the bush maintain balance and supports better fruit production. Trim to keep the bush to a manageable size and shape, typically removing no more than a third of the plant's height in one season. During the growing season, you can also trim any overly vigorous shoots that might be crowding the plant, encouraging a more balanced structure. 3. Using cuttings to start new plants: The best time to take blueberry cuttings is from late summer to early fall when the wood is semi-hard but not yet fully mature. Choose cuttings from healthy, vigorous plants. Look for shoots that are not too old or too young. Ideally, the cuttings should be from the current season's growth and about 4-6 inches long. If possible, select shoots that haven't flowered, as they will have more energy to put into growing roots. - Preparing Cuttings: Make a clean cut just below a node (the point where leaves attach to the stem). This is where the roots are most likely to develop. Strip off the lower leaves, leaving a few at the top. This reduces moisture loss and encourages root growth. Although optional, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone can improve the chances of successful rooting. Rooting hormone is available in powder, gel, or liquid form. -Planting: Use a well-draining rooting medium like a mix of peat moss and perlite or sand. You can also use a commercial rooting mix. Insert the cuttings into the rooting medium about 1-2 inches deep. Firm the soil around them to ensure good contact. -Care: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water the cuttings gently to avoid displacing them. Cover the cuttings with a plastic bag or place them in a greenhouse or a propagation chamber to maintain high humidity. Ensure the cover does not touch the cuttings to avoid mold. Place the cuttings in a location with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can be too intense for young cuttings. -Transplanting: After about 8-12 weeks, check for root development by gently tugging on the cuttings. If you feel resistance, roots have formed. Rooting can take time, so be patient and avoid disturbing the cuttings too soon. Once roots are established, transplant the cuttings into small pots with a potting mix suitable for blueberries or a mix of peat and perlite. Gradually acclimate the young plants to outdoor conditions by exposing them to more light and outdoor temperatures over a couple of weeks. 4. Caring for lavender plants: Lavender plants can be a bit finicky, but several common issues could be causing them to struggle or die. Here are a few things to think about: Lavender needs well-draining soil. Heavy, clayey, or waterlogged soils can lead to root rot. Consider improving drainage by adding sand or gravel to the soil, or planting in raised beds or containers with good drainage. Lavender prefers slightly alkaline to neutral soil, ideally with a pH between 6.7 and 7.3. You can test your soil’s pH with a kit and amend it if necessary. Lavender is drought-tolerant and doesn’t like to sit in wet soil. Water sparingly and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause root rot and other issues. While lavender prefers less frequent watering, it still needs some moisture, especially in hot, dry conditions. Ensure it gets enough water during prolonged dry spells. Lavender requires full sun to thrive, which means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If it’s not getting enough light, it can become leggy and weak. Lavender generally prefers temperate climates. Extreme cold or heat can stress the plant Lavender doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer. Fungal diseases like root rot, powdery mildew, and rust can affect lavender. Ensure proper spacing for air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce disease risk. Lavender benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape and health. Prune after flowering to remove spent blooms and encourage new growth. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems, as they may not regenerate. Blueberries and lavender can be successfully planted together, but there are a few things to think about to ensure both plants thrive. Both blueberries and lavender prefer acidic to neutral soil. Blueberries thrive in a pH of 4.5 to 5.5, while lavender prefers a pH of around 6.7 to 7.3. This difference in pH requirements means you’ll need to find a balance or be prepared to amend the soil appropriately. Both plants need full sun to grow well. Ensure they receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Both plants require well-draining soil. Blueberries are prone to root rot in poorly drained soils, and lavender, though drought-tolerant, also dislikes wet feet. Blueberries need consistent moisture, especially during the growing season, whereas lavender prefers drier conditions and is more tolerant of drought. Overwatering can lead to issues for both plants, so careful watering practices are necessary. We hope this will give you some guidance for moving forward. Happy gardening!
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Discolored leaves - Mexican Petunia
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:07 pm
- My dad has a lot of mexican petunia at our beach house in North Carolina. They have developed this odd discoloration on the leaves (see pic below). They reside in predominantly shade and have been there forever. Any idea what this could be and how to fix it? I have them here in Richmond but mine have not done that.
- First - please let me apologize for the delay in getting a response over to you! The website had some updates done that unintentionally prevented our access to answer questions! We finally have it fixed and are back up and running. We appreciate your patience! This seems most likely to be gall mites. Wet and humid conditions which are typically prevalent throughout the month of August will facilitate the growth of gall mites. Mexican Petunias tend to prefer full sun, so being in the shade has probably exacerbated the problem. From what we have read, a horticultural oil like All-Seasons Oil Spray will get rid of these mites, although they should be used with caution as they can cause phytotoxicity at high temperatures. If you are interested in reading more about gall mites here is an informative article: https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/monroeco/2022/08/30/what-is-this-gall-mites/ As Master Gardeners, we would also be remiss not to mention that concerns for mexican petunia to be invasive. It is currently classified as highly invasive in Florida and we imagine other states will start listing it as such as well. It spreads via both numerous seeds and lateral roots and therefor can be difficult to control and/or remove. It could be a good time to consider removing this plant and replacing it with native options. Here are a few ideas that you could think about if you are looking to keep some color in the area: East coast dune sunflower, Helianthus debilis subsp. debilis, blue porterweed, Stachytarpheta jamaicensis, tickseed, Coreopsis leavenworthii, tropical sage, Salvia coccinea, or firecracker plant, Russelia equisetiformis can be used.
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Removing Pokeweed
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Date Posted: Sun, Jun 23 - 10:17 pm
- Hello, We have identified poke weed in our backyard. We have tried to slowly cut small areas down to see if it will end up dying. Are there any tricks to successfully remove poke weed naturally? I would prefer not to use chemicals if I can avoid it. Thank you for the help!
- Pokeweed has a taproot. This can make it difficult to dig up, but without using chemicals, manual removal is your only option. Be sure to wear gloves and goggles when working to remove pokeweed as it can be irritating to skin and eyes. You will want to loosen the soil and dig down as deep as you can to remove as much of the taproot as possible. If it has already flowered, you will want to make sure you are containing everything as you remove it so you don’t spread seeds around. Cutting everything back is another option to manage the pokeweed, but since you are not getting the root it will keep coming back. Good luck! This can be quite a task but rewarding once you have accomplished it!
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Repotting Orchids
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Date Posted: Sat, May 18 - 8:44 pm
- Hello! I was recently gifted a grocery store orchid in full bloom. I have a black thumb, have never owned an orchid, and am trying not to kill the poor dear. So far it seems pretty happy but it’s also rootbound. It’s in a plastic nursery pot and the roots are growing though the drainage holes. Should I repot it now or wait until it’s done blooming? Thank you!
- Congratulations! What a beautiful gift! Orchids can be so rewarding when they bloom again. First, is to figure out what type of Orchid you have. Most often, I see Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) at the grocery store, so I'm going to assume that is what you have. These orchids have a main stem that grows up from a single point and they actually prefer to be pretty tight in their containers. You definitely do not want to repot it while it is in bloom - repotting it now will cause it to drop all of its flowers. After it has finished blooming, you can repot it. The Missouri Botanical Garden has a really wonderful guide on repotting Orchids that will be a great resource for you once your orchid has finished blooming: https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/visual-guides/repotting-phalaenopsis-and-other-monopodial-orchid#:~:text=As%20a%20general%20rule%2C%20repot,Repot%20spring%20through%20fall. Good luck! Wishing you lots of success!
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Selecting a Maple for full sun
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 28 - 1:05 am
- Hello! I have a little planting area in my front yard that gets sun pretty much all day long. I wanted to plant a Japanese maple there but I know they don't all enjoy full sun. Are there any that would do okay in that situation? Also, I would prefer one that doesn't get too big. Thank you! Heather Maury
- A few things to think about when you are selecting a tree for this space are if the tree is being planted near sidewalks or a driveway, what your soil conditions are like, the amount of sun or shade it will get, and also remember to look up for power lines. Red maples are generally faster growers and are also native to our area, but they may have shallower root systems. Japanese maples tend to be slower growing but are not native. Sugar maples are also an option but you would want to be sure to select heat tolerant varieties for the Richmond area. Another alternative is Yellowwood. They have nice big leaves, beautiful form and flowers, tolerate the heat and don't get too big. The University of Illinois Extension has a great tree selector tool that you may also find useful: https://web.extension.illinois.edu/treeselector/search.cfm Good luck!
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Vegetables and Fruits for shady areas
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 28 - 1:00 am
- Are there any fruits or vegetables that would grow well in a pretty shady area? My property has a lot of trees but I would like to try growing edible plants if possible!
- Yes! There are a few vegetable options for shady areas: 1. Salad greens like arugula, spinach, endive and other lettuces. 2. Leafy Greens like swiss chard, collards, kale and mustard greens. 3. Root veggies like carrots, beets, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga and turnips. 4. Brassica veggies like broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and cabbage. 4. herbs The Fairfax Master Gardeners have a great article about shade tolerant fruits. In their article they say: "Gooseberries, red currants and elderberries are the most shade tolerant fruit we can grow in Virginia. Blueberries and some figs will produce a decent crop in light to moderate shade. Serviceberries, pawpaws and cherry trees are small, understory trees that can bear abundant crops." You can find the full article here: https://fairfaxgardening.org/shade-fruits/ Now is a great time to be planning your spring plantings! Happy Gardening!
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Adult Gardening Classes
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Date Posted: Mon, Feb 19 - 11:36 pm
- Do you have adult classes on any subjects about gardening. We are just retired but have been doing a little gardening both flowers and vegetables. Thanks Millie and Boris
- Hello Millie and Boris! Happy Retirement! What a great time to learn more about gardening. Unfortunately the Richmond Master Gardeners are not currently offering any classes but there are other options in the area. Chesterfield Master Gardeners offers classes and opportunities in their demonstration garden: https://www.chesterfield.gov/447/Events-Programs-and-Workshops And the Goochland Master Gardeners have their Annual Spring Garden Fest coming up on Saturday April 27th that will include multiple class/workshop options. You can find more info and sign up for that here: https://www.gpmga.org/sgf In addition, many of our local nurseries (Cross Creek, Strange's, Great Big Greenhouse, Sneeds, etc) are offering many different class options now through April/May. Happy Gardening!