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Strawberries Varieties for Richmond
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Date Posted: Sun, Feb 13 - 9:09 pm
- What are the best varietals of strawberries to grow in RVA?
- Hello there, Glad to see that you are thinking Spring! You have a number of choices for this area. There are several types of strawberries: June-bearing, day neutral and ever-bearing. I believe you'll be most successful planting the June-bearing varieties here. The other two options are more suitable for cooler climates. Some basic requirements for fruiting are to make sure you're planting an area that gets full sun (usually 6-8 hours a day), most likely near to your vegetable garden. However, do not plant in sites where tomato, potato or eggplant were previously planted to keep down disease (verticillium wilt and some others). Be aware that strawberries will reproduce quickly, this can be both a pro and con depending on how much space you have. Clip the runners if you are most interested in having larger berries on the mother plant. It's often suggested that strawberries can be integrated into an ornamental garden but I've never had very good luck with that approach but feel free to experiment. They could make a nice ground cover in the right setting. Some recommended varieties from VA Tech are: June Bearing--Sweet Charlie, Camino Real, FlavorFest. Of course there is always our native strawberry from which many cultivars are produced--fragraria virginiana. If you would like more information on this subject, I've attached a link. https://ext.vt.edu/content/dam/ext_vt_edu/topics/agriculture/commercial-horticulture/small-fruit/fruits-in-the-home-garden.pdf. Best of luck with the berries!
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Trellising Blackberries
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 1:44 pm
- I am wanting to grow blackberries in containers. I have a full sun spot behind my house. Do you think galvanized feeder troughs would be a good thing in which to plant them? And was planning/thought I could trellis them on my fence - do you think that would work? Thank you
- Hello there, that sounds like a great scheme. The troughs should be fine. Galvanized containers are only a problem when they start to corrode so starting with new ones will be fine and serve you for many years. You didn't mention the type of blackberry or the height of your fence. Assuming you are using erect blackberries they will probably top out at 4-5 ft. tall. So factor that in with the height of your planters. If your trough is a foot high add in the mature height of the bushes at 5 feet. Assuming your fence is 6 feet high your good to go. Even if the fence is a bit shorter it will still work. Blackberries can get pretty tangled so you're smart to want to control them a bit with a support. Generally, you will cut down the cane after it has fruited and you've harvested. However, the pruning can vary depending on whether the plant fruits in summer or fall so just be sure to get all that information when you select a variety. It would be good to have some air circulation behind and around the plants so hopefully your fence isn't solid boards. You might wind up with some space in the front of the berries which could be a nice spot for growing herbs. Good luck with the project!
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Tomato-Blossom End Rot
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:37 pm
- I'm just starting to see fruit on my tomato vines, but unfortunately they look to already be developing blossom end rot. I'm using a mixture of organic soil with fertilizer and perlite, and I'm not sure if the plant is salvageable. What can I do to help this plant? And what advice can you give for other tomato plants to prevent this blossom end rot? Is there something I can apply early on to prevent this? Thanks!
- Hello there, This is a pretty standard issue with tomatoes. Generally, the cause is inconsistent watering and/or a calcium deficiency. So the first step would be to establish a consistent level of watering for your plants. Of course, Mother Nature plays a role here as well, you can't control that. If you're sure that watering is not the problem, then you need to think about calcium. Without testing the soil you won't know the level of deficiency. But if you want to proceed, there is a short-term fix. I haven't tried this myself because the cause for me was generally a watering issue, but you can spray the plant with a calcium solution. That will buy you some time to increase the calcium content in your soil. There may be enough calcium in the soil but the ph of the soil may be preventing the plant from absorbing it. I don't understand all the chemistry of this but soil ph is the root of plant happiness. A ph of around 6.5 will do. Try adding some fast-acting lime (don't use dolomitic lime) and working that into the soil about 12 inches deep.The lime frees up the calcium from the soil. As I said previously about chemistry....This is a time-honored practice so it should work for you if, in fact, you find that watering is not the problem. If you would like to have a soil profile done, please let us know and we can send you a soil test request kit. Good luck with the tomato harvest!