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Is my new maple tree healthy?
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Date Posted: Sun, Oct 20 - 1:26 pm
- Good morning! I am reaching out in regard to a maple tree I recently ordered. I am concerned that we may have been sent an unhealthy tree. It arrived with a lot of dead leaves, including many of the "baby" leaves at the top of the tree, and spots on many of the larger leaves. There is also a wound on the bark where the stake rubbed it, and the trunk is not straight. Since I don't have much experience with trees, I am unsure whether the tree will bounce back, or whether this is indicative of larger issues, and we should refrain from planting. Any insight you can offer would be greatly appreciated! I can only upload one photo through this form, but am happy to email more if needed. Thank you so much!
- Hello! Thank you so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners for help with your new tree. From what I have read, the trunk will likely correct itself as it grows so it shouldn't be too worrisome that it isn't straight right now. Reaching out to the grower you purchased fromm is always a good idea to see what information they are able to share about their trees. From the picture you sent, I think your new tree may have some maple spider mites. These can be common in trees coming from a nursery setting and can often be easily controlled when planted in a healthy environment. Here is a helpful site with more information about spider mites: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/maple-spider-mite-oligonychus-aceris-shimer-acariformes-tetranychidae I've also reached out to the Richmond Tree stewards to see if they have any other helpful information to pass along about your new tree and I will reach out to you via e-mail if I get anything new from them!
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Tree Girdling
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Date Posted: Tue, Oct 08 - 11:35 pm
- I have what appears to be a very intense girdling root situation happening with my ruby red falls (red bud cultivar). The top of the tree died off entirely this year so I cut the dead part off (about 1 ft) earlier in the spring and just now decided to check the roots. It did produce a lot of leaves and appears to be in just ok health, but is not thriving by any means. Is this tree salvageable? Any suggestions?
- Thanks for reaching out to the master gardeners for help with your tree. I've sent your photo to a handful of other master gardeners in our group so that we can have a few opinions to share with you. Overall, we do not see serious concern for girdling in the photo that you sent. If you are seeing girdling that we can not see (maybe on the other side of the tree) you could always cut those roots away taking care to not cut into the stem/trunk of the tree. Your heavy pruning of the tree earlier this year could certainly be a cause of the abnormal growth you saw this year. From your photo, it does appear that your tree may have been planted too deep. You could pull a lot of the soil back from the tree in order to create a more shallow planting and see if this helps to improve the health of your plant. If ultimately the tree does not survive and you are looking to replace it, we would recommend going with a straight species like Cercis canadensis (Eastern Redbud)
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Cover crops for shaded compacted lawn
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Date Posted: Mon, Sep 16 - 12:32 am
- Hello! I have a very compacted front lawn that only grows Japanese clover (and just barely). It’s in full shade below large willow oaks. A shovel only gets a couple inches deep, and that’s after jumping on it a few times. I have a dream of planting groundcovers like Chrysogonum, Fragaria, and Ajuga, but I don’t think they’ll do well in compaction. Are there any cover crops I can plant to overwinter that will help with this? I was thinking daikon, but don’t know if they’ll do well without sun. Any tips for combatting this compaction would be very helpful!
- So many of us know this struggle with compacted soil!. Daikon radish is often recommended for breaking up compacted soil due to its deep taproot. However, it does require at least partial sun to grow well, and in deep shade, it may struggle. I'm curious when the leaves typically fall from your willow oaks as that should help the area get more sunlight. You might consider crimson clover or white clover which can tolerate low light levels better and also help improve soil structure by fixing nitrogen. Personally, I would be inclined to seed with both diakon radish and clover. If both end up growing that should be a huge help to your soil! Other ideas to consider include applying a layer of compost or leaf mulch. This will encourage earthworm activity and other soil organisms that naturally aerate the soil over time. If physically possible, aerating the lawn with a manual or mechanical aerator can make a big difference. This opens up the soil, allowing water and nutrients to penetrate more effectively, and provides a better environment for your planned groundcovers. And once the soil has improved, your choices of Chrysogonum, Fragaria, and Ajuga could thrive better. These are excellent for shaded areas once the compaction is reduced. Good luck! We'd love to hear what you decide to go with and the outcome that you get.
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Fig & Cherry trees
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Date Posted: Fri, Sep 06 - 11:33 am
- Planted two fig trees (brown Turkey, Hardy Chicago) and a cherry tree (sweetheart) in mid July that have really been struggling recently. I’m wondering what diseases they might have and would love advice on how to treat them. Thank you! Hardy Chicago fig picture attached
- Fig and cherry trees can be a bit sensitive to grow, especially when planted in the heat of summer. The best time to plant is typically in May, or if you are eager to get them in the ground you can plant larger saplings in the fall. Thank you for including the picture, its helpful to see what you are seeing. It's possible the browning you are seeing is related to environmental stress (transplanting, summer heat, etc). However, it also seems likely that your plant is suffering from fig rust, a common issue for fig trees that is caused by a fungal pathogen that can impact the health of the tree if not managed properly. Fig rust symptoms are worse during hot, wet, humid weather in late summer. Fig rust starts out as small, yellowish or reddish spots on the upper side of the leaves. As the disease progresses, these spots may turn brown and become surrounded by a yellow halo. On the underside of the leaves, you may see small, rust-colored pustules, which contain the fungal spores. Fig rust is caused by the fungus Fusicladium effusum. This pathogen thrives in warm, humid conditions and can spread rapidly if the environment is favorable. There are a few things you can do to try to control the fungus from a cultural standpoint that focus on reducing the time that leaves are wet in order to stop spore germination and infection. This includes: avoid overhead irrigation and water at the base of the plant instead, do not plant the trees in shady areas, regularly weed to help keep humidity around the tree lower, and avoid planting in areas that flood or have free-standing water after rainfall. It's also important to remove and destroy any downed leaves from near the plant to remove the fungus.
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Blueberries and Lavender
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:37 pm
- Hello, I have 3 questions - I have blueberry bushes that were not properly tended to over the summer heat. They produced lovely berries but since have grown scraggly and I need to trim them back. Is there a proper time and way to do this? I have attempted several times to take cuttings and start new plants. Failed every time. Any suggestions? I have lavender plants in front of the blueberry bushes. They are half alive and half dead. Do I need to move them? I am thinking it is from the overgrowth of limbs from the blueberry bushes but not certain. I am presently in the tedious process of soaking the ground in the evenings and pulling the grass and weeds that surround them. I appreciate your help.
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! You have several great questions that we will do our best to give you some guidance on: 1. When to prune blueberry bushes: The best time to prune blueberries is in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing helps the bush recover and grow new shoots for the coming season. You could also have done some light pruning after harvesting, particularly if you noticed any dead or diseased branches. Regular, light pruning is usually better than infrequent, heavy pruning. Always make clean cuts and avoid leaving stubs, as these can become entry points for pests or diseases. 2. How to prune blueberry bushes: Start by cutting out any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. This helps improve air circulation and reduces the risk of pests and diseases. If the bush is very dense, selectively remove some of the older, thicker branches from the center of the plant to improve airflow and light penetration. This encourages better fruit development. Blueberry bushes produce the most fruit on new growth. Cut back older branches that are more than 6 years old to promote the growth of new, fruitful shoots. Aim for a well-rounded shape, which helps the bush maintain balance and supports better fruit production. Trim to keep the bush to a manageable size and shape, typically removing no more than a third of the plant's height in one season. During the growing season, you can also trim any overly vigorous shoots that might be crowding the plant, encouraging a more balanced structure. 3. Using cuttings to start new plants: The best time to take blueberry cuttings is from late summer to early fall when the wood is semi-hard but not yet fully mature. Choose cuttings from healthy, vigorous plants. Look for shoots that are not too old or too young. Ideally, the cuttings should be from the current season's growth and about 4-6 inches long. If possible, select shoots that haven't flowered, as they will have more energy to put into growing roots. - Preparing Cuttings: Make a clean cut just below a node (the point where leaves attach to the stem). This is where the roots are most likely to develop. Strip off the lower leaves, leaving a few at the top. This reduces moisture loss and encourages root growth. Although optional, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone can improve the chances of successful rooting. Rooting hormone is available in powder, gel, or liquid form. -Planting: Use a well-draining rooting medium like a mix of peat moss and perlite or sand. You can also use a commercial rooting mix. Insert the cuttings into the rooting medium about 1-2 inches deep. Firm the soil around them to ensure good contact. -Care: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water the cuttings gently to avoid displacing them. Cover the cuttings with a plastic bag or place them in a greenhouse or a propagation chamber to maintain high humidity. Ensure the cover does not touch the cuttings to avoid mold. Place the cuttings in a location with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can be too intense for young cuttings. -Transplanting: After about 8-12 weeks, check for root development by gently tugging on the cuttings. If you feel resistance, roots have formed. Rooting can take time, so be patient and avoid disturbing the cuttings too soon. Once roots are established, transplant the cuttings into small pots with a potting mix suitable for blueberries or a mix of peat and perlite. Gradually acclimate the young plants to outdoor conditions by exposing them to more light and outdoor temperatures over a couple of weeks. 4. Caring for lavender plants: Lavender plants can be a bit finicky, but several common issues could be causing them to struggle or die. Here are a few things to think about: Lavender needs well-draining soil. Heavy, clayey, or waterlogged soils can lead to root rot. Consider improving drainage by adding sand or gravel to the soil, or planting in raised beds or containers with good drainage. Lavender prefers slightly alkaline to neutral soil, ideally with a pH between 6.7 and 7.3. You can test your soil’s pH with a kit and amend it if necessary. Lavender is drought-tolerant and doesn’t like to sit in wet soil. Water sparingly and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause root rot and other issues. While lavender prefers less frequent watering, it still needs some moisture, especially in hot, dry conditions. Ensure it gets enough water during prolonged dry spells. Lavender requires full sun to thrive, which means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If it’s not getting enough light, it can become leggy and weak. Lavender generally prefers temperate climates. Extreme cold or heat can stress the plant Lavender doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer. Fungal diseases like root rot, powdery mildew, and rust can affect lavender. Ensure proper spacing for air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce disease risk. Lavender benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape and health. Prune after flowering to remove spent blooms and encourage new growth. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems, as they may not regenerate. Blueberries and lavender can be successfully planted together, but there are a few things to think about to ensure both plants thrive. Both blueberries and lavender prefer acidic to neutral soil. Blueberries thrive in a pH of 4.5 to 5.5, while lavender prefers a pH of around 6.7 to 7.3. This difference in pH requirements means you’ll need to find a balance or be prepared to amend the soil appropriately. Both plants need full sun to grow well. Ensure they receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Both plants require well-draining soil. Blueberries are prone to root rot in poorly drained soils, and lavender, though drought-tolerant, also dislikes wet feet. Blueberries need consistent moisture, especially during the growing season, whereas lavender prefers drier conditions and is more tolerant of drought. Overwatering can lead to issues for both plants, so careful watering practices are necessary. We hope this will give you some guidance for moving forward. Happy gardening!
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Problem with rose
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Date Posted: Mon, Jun 17 - 1:10 am
- Any suggestions other than takeout. I’ve tried need oil
- The picture you sent looks like a variety of wild rose. Many are starting to move away from planting roses as they are very needy and nearly as toxic as lawns to grow successfully. Based on the little bit of information that we have, we would recommend pulling the plant and replacing it with something else. Our recommendation is clematis virginiana if you are looking for a vining plant that is native. If you are hoping to find a way to keep the rose, this article has great information about different problems with roses and how to address them: https://fairfaxgardening.org/rose-problems/ Best of luck to you!
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Planting sapling redbuds
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Date Posted: Thu, May 30 - 5:26 pm
- I have two sapling eastern redbuds. I have grown them from seed. Looking to plant them in my yard, what is the proper exposure and best time of year for them to thrive in the ground? Also how far apart should they be planted?
- How exciting! Redbuds are so beautiful, and what an accomplishment to grow them from seed. There are a couple of things to keep in mind when planting sapling redbuds- First, it is best to plant them on the smaller side as they don't enjoy being transplanted due to their long taproot. Second, the best time of year to plant many natives, including eastern redbuds, is the early fall after the heat of summer has passed. This allows the plant time to get established before winter and sets it up to really thrive the following year! An exception to this, is if you are planting in a space that closely mimics the redbud's natural environment. They are happiest with partial shade and in moist, well-drained soil. Whether you decide to plant now or early fall, keep them well mulched and watered as they for at least the first year as they get established. They should be planted at least 12 feet apart from each other to allow space for both to grow. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Selecting a Maple for full sun
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 28 - 1:05 am
- Hello! I have a little planting area in my front yard that gets sun pretty much all day long. I wanted to plant a Japanese maple there but I know they don't all enjoy full sun. Are there any that would do okay in that situation? Also, I would prefer one that doesn't get too big. Thank you! Heather Maury
- A few things to think about when you are selecting a tree for this space are if the tree is being planted near sidewalks or a driveway, what your soil conditions are like, the amount of sun or shade it will get, and also remember to look up for power lines. Red maples are generally faster growers and are also native to our area, but they may have shallower root systems. Japanese maples tend to be slower growing but are not native. Sugar maples are also an option but you would want to be sure to select heat tolerant varieties for the Richmond area. Another alternative is Yellowwood. They have nice big leaves, beautiful form and flowers, tolerate the heat and don't get too big. The University of Illinois Extension has a great tree selector tool that you may also find useful: https://web.extension.illinois.edu/treeselector/search.cfm Good luck!
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Vegetables and Fruits for shady areas
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Date Posted: Wed, Feb 28 - 1:00 am
- Are there any fruits or vegetables that would grow well in a pretty shady area? My property has a lot of trees but I would like to try growing edible plants if possible!
- Yes! There are a few vegetable options for shady areas: 1. Salad greens like arugula, spinach, endive and other lettuces. 2. Leafy Greens like swiss chard, collards, kale and mustard greens. 3. Root veggies like carrots, beets, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga and turnips. 4. Brassica veggies like broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and cabbage. 4. herbs The Fairfax Master Gardeners have a great article about shade tolerant fruits. In their article they say: "Gooseberries, red currants and elderberries are the most shade tolerant fruit we can grow in Virginia. Blueberries and some figs will produce a decent crop in light to moderate shade. Serviceberries, pawpaws and cherry trees are small, understory trees that can bear abundant crops." You can find the full article here: https://fairfaxgardening.org/shade-fruits/ Now is a great time to be planning your spring plantings! Happy Gardening!
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Building Healthy Soil
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Date Posted: Fri, Feb 16 - 12:58 pm
- Hi, I seem to have very low yield and success with my gardens that we planted the past few years. I was wondering if it might have to do with soil quality etc. Is there anyone I can turn to for a consultation? Free or paid? I'd love to just get some expert opinions on the best way to improve my yield and overall success.
- This is frustrating for a gardener for sure! Now is a great time of year to do a soil test to see how your soil needs to be amended before planting season. We are in the process of getting more soil test kits from the extension office and will have them out in the libraries again soon. Once these are back, I'd recommending picking one up to test the soil in your garden. The information you will get from this will guide you on what your soil is lacking so that you can focus on adding that back in. The plants will take nutrients from the soil each year and it is important that we are building the soil back up. Chesterfield County Master Gardeners has an upcoming workshop on March 9th about feeding the soil: https://anc.apm.activecommunities.com/chesterfieldparksrec/activity/search/detail/20270?onlineSiteId=7&locale=en-US This is a great opportunity to get information that will set you up for success and will also allow you the chance to ask questions that are pertinent to your garden. We also have many wonderful garden shops (Cross Creek, Sneeds, Stranges, Colesville, Great Big Green House) in the area with very knowledgable people on their teams. They are always willing to help guide you in store and some offer services to come out and consult on your property. Happy gardening! Hoping this year will be an abundant year for you!