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Strawberries Varieties for Richmond
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Date Posted: Sun, Feb 13 - 9:09 pm
- What are the best varietals of strawberries to grow in RVA?
- Hello there, Glad to see that you are thinking Spring! You have a number of choices for this area. There are several types of strawberries: June-bearing, day neutral and ever-bearing. I believe you'll be most successful planting the June-bearing varieties here. The other two options are more suitable for cooler climates. Some basic requirements for fruiting are to make sure you're planting an area that gets full sun (usually 6-8 hours a day), most likely near to your vegetable garden. However, do not plant in sites where tomato, potato or eggplant were previously planted to keep down disease (verticillium wilt and some others). Be aware that strawberries will reproduce quickly, this can be both a pro and con depending on how much space you have. Clip the runners if you are most interested in having larger berries on the mother plant. It's often suggested that strawberries can be integrated into an ornamental garden but I've never had very good luck with that approach but feel free to experiment. They could make a nice ground cover in the right setting. Some recommended varieties from VA Tech are: June Bearing--Sweet Charlie, Camino Real, FlavorFest. Of course there is always our native strawberry from which many cultivars are produced--fragraria virginiana. If you would like more information on this subject, I've attached a link. https://ext.vt.edu/content/dam/ext_vt_edu/topics/agriculture/commercial-horticulture/small-fruit/fruits-in-the-home-garden.pdf. Best of luck with the berries!
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Transplanting Hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Fri, Nov 05 - 1:58 pm
- I have hydrangeas in a partial sun location, mostly afternoon, and they have never done very well with adequate watering and fertilization If I’m going to move them to a new location, what scenario should they be in and are there any specific times that are better to move them?
- Greetings! Thank you for your question. Now is a great time to transplant your hydrangeas (Fall season), while the plants are dormant. Plant your hydrangeas in an area that gets morning sun, and afternoon shade. Hydrangeas do not like the hot afternoon sun we have here in Richmond in the summer months, and that may be why they have not done well in their current location. When you transplant, be sure and select a location that will drain well, and amend your soil with plenty of compost. Be sure and dig the hole large enough to accommodate the entire root ball. Water the hydrangea well once you place it in the new location. As you know, hydrangeas love to be watered in the warmer months, and they love nutrient-rich, composted soil. If they are planted near larger plants or trees, they may be competing for water during the warm months, and it will be important to keep them moist (but well drained). Good luck with your fall gardening!
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Testing
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Date Posted: Thu, Nov 04 - 7:44 pm
- Just testing to see what I get when I submit a question!
- Hello there!!!! This is what you get when you test. When you ask a real question, you get A LOT more. Thanks for checking in! Janice btw, I have no idea who submitted this testing question, but I have some idea.
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Spider Sac on plant
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Date Posted: Sun, Oct 10 - 2:59 pm
- I have several long white strings of balls that looks like a moth cocoon or something from a plant in my backyard. Any idea what it is and if I should take it down? I wanted to submit a photo but it doesn't look like there's an option to do that. But they're about 2 in long and the balls look to be about the size of a very small pea and there's probably 8 or 10 of them hanging vertically in a string.
- Good morning! Thank you for your question. You have provided a very good description, and without actually seeing a picture, I'm guessing what you are seeing is a spider sac. Spider sacs can come in a variety of sizes and can range in color from white to yellowish to brown, and the individual sacs will be about the size of the spider which produced it. They typically appear as a thick netting of spider silk with multiple eggs inside, and can be found on plants. Some spiders make just one egg sac and others will make several small ones. You don't want to directly disturb a spider egg sac which has potentially viable eggs, or you risk releasing hundreds of small spiders. The best way to get rid of it is to first spray it with a mixture of 1/2 bleach and 1/2 water to kill the spiders/eggs. Use protective gloves and long sleeves. Once you spray it, you can then use an elongated tool to remove the sac (or you could cut that branch or leaves to which the sac is appended), and place in a plastic bag, tie it tightly, and throw it in the trash. Or you may choose to just leave the spider sac since it is outdoors, as it will not directly harm the plant, and may have some beneficial use in the garden (of course this depends on the type of spider). While spiders will not directly harm the plant, they do feed on both harmful as well as beneficial insects in the garden (including bees, butterflies, ladybugs). If what you have is in fact a spider sac, I would recommend getting rid of it to be on the safe side. Hope this helps, and happy gardening!
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Master Gardener Demo Gardens
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Date Posted: Thu, Sep 30 - 2:42 pm
- Hi, Does RVA have any demo gardens like MGNV has in Arlington and Alexandra? Is there anyway to volunteer? Thank you, sue
- Good morning! Unfortunately, the Richmond Master Gardener Program does not have any demo gardens. I am aware of demo gardens in other parts of the state, as well as some in other states, but at this time we do not operate one here in Richmond. That's not to say we won't develop one in the future! We have had discussions in our Master Gardener group, but as this time no specific plans are in the works. As far as volunteering, are you currently a Master Gardener? If you are, you can contact any of the local Virginia Cooperative Extension offices (Richmond City's VCE number is 804.786.4150; or you could contact the VCE programs in Chesterfield, Henrico, or Hanover) to find out about volunteer opportunities available to Master Gardeners. If you are not a trained Master Gardener, you may want to reach out to one of the public gardens in Richmond (i.e. Maymont, or Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden) who have organized volunteer programs for individuals who are passionate about gardening. Thanks again for your question, Sue, and good luck!
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Fall Planting
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Date Posted: Thu, Sep 23 - 6:46 pm
- We are looking for advice on planning for the front of the house as we just took out a bunch of old bushes. I saw where Chesterfield, Hanover and Henrico have a master gardener that comes to your house. Is there anyone who can help us out in Richmond? Thanks, Andrea
- Good afternoon, and thanks for your question! At this time, we are not providing onsite garden consultations due to the pandemic, but I would be happy to provide some advice over the phone. We can talk about your space size where you'd like to do your planting, direction orientation (i.e. north facing, or other), plant type preferences, and other details that would help me provide some recommendations and advice on planting. If you'd like to take this approach, feel free to email me at dcmoorerva@gmail.com and I'll respond and we can set a time to discuss over the phone. Thanks again for your question, and I hope to hear from you!
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Recyling Plants
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Date Posted: Wed, Sep 15 - 12:39 am
- Hello, Where can I recycle live plants in good condition?
- Hello there, What a good question, thanks for bringing this to our attention! I reached out to some other master gardeners and we've come up with a few options. The first one would be to post your available plants on Facebook Marketplace (I realize that not everyone is on FB so this may not work), a second option might be Craigslist, a third is Lewis Ginter-they will take plant donations but I believe it will depend on what plants you have available. I would also encourage you to ask your neighbors, some neighborhoods have informal plant swaps and that would be a great way to find a new home for your plants and maybe meet some new neighbors. Your question got us all thinking about ways to organize plant exchanges, so stay tuned for new developments. I hope your generosity is duly rewarded!
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Transplanting an English boxwood
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Date Posted: Mon, Sep 13 - 6:56 pm
- Instructions for moving English boxwood
- Hello there, This is the right time to be thinking about moving plants though I wouldn't actually move it until we hit a spell of cooler weather. I happened upon a useful link that describes the process better than I could. The link is from the magazine Southern Living and includes photos. https://www.southernliving.com/garden/grumpy-gardener/transplanting-b It looks like a good guide. Best of luck.
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Master plan-ADA compliant gardens
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Date Posted: Sun, Sep 05 - 9:31 pm
- Hello, I am moving from London to Richmond. While I have won awards for garden design, now, I am a handicapped senior. I want a parterre, which is ADA compliant, and am looking for a master gardener to help create. Whole property is 4 acres, 2 lawn, full sun. Where would I find master gardeners around Richmond who know best plants/roses/ilex for the region. Also, any other ADA gardens? Thank you.
- Hello there and welcome to Richmond! Your project sounds intriguing though outside of the work typically done by Master Gardeners in Richmond. It seems you are looking for a master plan of your new property to include hardscape and gardens for a 4 acre property. Master Gardeners work to educate and work with the public on community projects. You may want to check in with the Virginia Society of Landscape Designers--www.vsld.org. Their website will connect you with designers and there are lots of photos from various designers to aid in making a choice. I can't say I know of any ADA compliant gardens myself but I have reached out to another organization to see if they have information that would be useful for you. I will let you know what I find. In the meantime it would be helpful to research the zone you will be living in to see if the plants you have in mind will thrive in your new landscape. The zones for Richmond are 6b to 7a. And sometimes micro-climates provide a situation for plants outside these zones. Please send me another message as a check in so I will be able to give you an update. Allow some time for the other organization to get back to me. Best of luck with this project, It's very exciting!
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Squash Vine Borers
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 24 - 1:57 am
- Hi there! Thank you so much for doing this! I have a couple questions on squash vine borers, which have been a HUGE issue in my garden this year. I have been surgically removing the larvae from my curcurbit vines every few days for over two months now (along the way losing both of my zucchini plants and one patty pan squash plant; now I have one patty pan and 4 pumpkin plants remaining). My questions are: How much longer should I expect new larvae to bore into my plants? And is there anything I can do next season to organically prevent these pests (or perhaps control them in a less laborious fashion!)?
- Hello! Thank you for your question. It sounds like you have had a challenging season with this difficult pest. Your surgical removal of the larvae is one part of the solution, and it sounds like you have mastered that particular process. There are other things you can do as well. To answer your first question, it is important to understand the lifecycle of the squash vine borer. Eggs will first appear in our area in May, will hatch in early summer, and then the larvae will bore into the squash stem to feed for up to 4 weeks. When the larvae are mature at 4-6 weeks, they will leave the vine and the dig 1-2 inches in the soil to pupate. In our climate, we can sometimes have 2 generations of larvae in a season. So unfortunately, once infested, this pest can present a problem for most of the growing season. In addition to the surgical removal process of the larvae in the stems, you can also use an organically approved insecticide such as Spinosad or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). Apply the product on the leaf stems and the main stem of the plant - do not spray the flowers. Apply one of these insecticides once per week during the growing season. It will kill the borer's eggs and larvae quickly. Again, these are organically approved products, and we recommend staying away from any synthetic, non-organic insecticides. Another method for prevention early in the season is to cover the young plants with a floating row cover until flowering occurs. The row cover will keep out the insect in the critical early part of the season, and will still allow sun, water, and air to get to the plant. Once flowering begins, remove the cover to ensure pollination is not disrupted. If or when you do have an infected vine(s), seal them in a plastic bag before the larvae pupate. This will break the lifecycle of the squash vine borer. And finally, the other important practice is to till under all crop debris after harvest, which also disrupts larvae in the soil, and prevents buildup of the squash borer population. Implementation of these practices should minimize the need for constant surgical removal of the larvae, and yield healthier plants and better crop. Good luck, and please reach out with any other questions!