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Is my new maple tree healthy?
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Date Posted: Sun, Oct 20 - 1:26 pm
- Good morning! I am reaching out in regard to a maple tree I recently ordered. I am concerned that we may have been sent an unhealthy tree. It arrived with a lot of dead leaves, including many of the "baby" leaves at the top of the tree, and spots on many of the larger leaves. There is also a wound on the bark where the stake rubbed it, and the trunk is not straight. Since I don't have much experience with trees, I am unsure whether the tree will bounce back, or whether this is indicative of larger issues, and we should refrain from planting. Any insight you can offer would be greatly appreciated! I can only upload one photo through this form, but am happy to email more if needed. Thank you so much!
- Hello! Thank you so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners for help with your new tree. From what I have read, the trunk will likely correct itself as it grows so it shouldn't be too worrisome that it isn't straight right now. Reaching out to the grower you purchased fromm is always a good idea to see what information they are able to share about their trees. From the picture you sent, I think your new tree may have some maple spider mites. These can be common in trees coming from a nursery setting and can often be easily controlled when planted in a healthy environment. Here is a helpful site with more information about spider mites: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/maple-spider-mite-oligonychus-aceris-shimer-acariformes-tetranychidae I've also reached out to the Richmond Tree stewards to see if they have any other helpful information to pass along about your new tree and I will reach out to you via e-mail if I get anything new from them!
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Tree Girdling
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Date Posted: Tue, Oct 08 - 11:35 pm
- I have what appears to be a very intense girdling root situation happening with my ruby red falls (red bud cultivar). The top of the tree died off entirely this year so I cut the dead part off (about 1 ft) earlier in the spring and just now decided to check the roots. It did produce a lot of leaves and appears to be in just ok health, but is not thriving by any means. Is this tree salvageable? Any suggestions?
- Thanks for reaching out to the master gardeners for help with your tree. I've sent your photo to a handful of other master gardeners in our group so that we can have a few opinions to share with you. Overall, we do not see serious concern for girdling in the photo that you sent. If you are seeing girdling that we can not see (maybe on the other side of the tree) you could always cut those roots away taking care to not cut into the stem/trunk of the tree. Your heavy pruning of the tree earlier this year could certainly be a cause of the abnormal growth you saw this year. From your photo, it does appear that your tree may have been planted too deep. You could pull a lot of the soil back from the tree in order to create a more shallow planting and see if this helps to improve the health of your plant. If ultimately the tree does not survive and you are looking to replace it, we would recommend going with a straight species like Cercis canadensis (Eastern Redbud)
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Becoming a Master Gardener
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Date Posted: Mon, Oct 07 - 11:58 pm
- Recently moved to the RVA. Interested in becoming a MG. What're next steps? M
- Micah, welcome to Richmond! We are so glad you are here and hope you will truly enjoy your new hometown - Richmond has so much to offer! And we are excited to hear about your interest in becoming a master gardener. The city of Richmond has been with out an extension agent for the last several years and our group of master gardeners has been operating without direct city leadership. Because of this, we have not been able to offer the program to bring new master gardeners on. This year, however, we have been able to partner with one of the other localities in the area and will have the opportunity to have two people go through the master gardener training on behalf of Richmond. We are very excited and will have more information coming out soon about this! I will send you an email so that we can stay in touch and I can be sure to get these details over to you when they are available. Thanks for reaching out!
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New backyard garden planning
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Date Posted: Mon, Oct 07 - 11:52 pm
- I would like help with planning a small garden (32”x73”) at the back of my house.
- Hi Maria! How exciting to be dreaming about a new garden for your back yard. I will reach out to you directly through e-mail to follow up with you and get more information in order to see if we have a master gardener available to help you with your endeavors!
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Blueberries and Lavender
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:37 pm
- Hello, I have 3 questions - I have blueberry bushes that were not properly tended to over the summer heat. They produced lovely berries but since have grown scraggly and I need to trim them back. Is there a proper time and way to do this? I have attempted several times to take cuttings and start new plants. Failed every time. Any suggestions? I have lavender plants in front of the blueberry bushes. They are half alive and half dead. Do I need to move them? I am thinking it is from the overgrowth of limbs from the blueberry bushes but not certain. I am presently in the tedious process of soaking the ground in the evenings and pulling the grass and weeds that surround them. I appreciate your help.
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! You have several great questions that we will do our best to give you some guidance on: 1. When to prune blueberry bushes: The best time to prune blueberries is in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing helps the bush recover and grow new shoots for the coming season. You could also have done some light pruning after harvesting, particularly if you noticed any dead or diseased branches. Regular, light pruning is usually better than infrequent, heavy pruning. Always make clean cuts and avoid leaving stubs, as these can become entry points for pests or diseases. 2. How to prune blueberry bushes: Start by cutting out any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. This helps improve air circulation and reduces the risk of pests and diseases. If the bush is very dense, selectively remove some of the older, thicker branches from the center of the plant to improve airflow and light penetration. This encourages better fruit development. Blueberry bushes produce the most fruit on new growth. Cut back older branches that are more than 6 years old to promote the growth of new, fruitful shoots. Aim for a well-rounded shape, which helps the bush maintain balance and supports better fruit production. Trim to keep the bush to a manageable size and shape, typically removing no more than a third of the plant's height in one season. During the growing season, you can also trim any overly vigorous shoots that might be crowding the plant, encouraging a more balanced structure. 3. Using cuttings to start new plants: The best time to take blueberry cuttings is from late summer to early fall when the wood is semi-hard but not yet fully mature. Choose cuttings from healthy, vigorous plants. Look for shoots that are not too old or too young. Ideally, the cuttings should be from the current season's growth and about 4-6 inches long. If possible, select shoots that haven't flowered, as they will have more energy to put into growing roots. - Preparing Cuttings: Make a clean cut just below a node (the point where leaves attach to the stem). This is where the roots are most likely to develop. Strip off the lower leaves, leaving a few at the top. This reduces moisture loss and encourages root growth. Although optional, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone can improve the chances of successful rooting. Rooting hormone is available in powder, gel, or liquid form. -Planting: Use a well-draining rooting medium like a mix of peat moss and perlite or sand. You can also use a commercial rooting mix. Insert the cuttings into the rooting medium about 1-2 inches deep. Firm the soil around them to ensure good contact. -Care: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water the cuttings gently to avoid displacing them. Cover the cuttings with a plastic bag or place them in a greenhouse or a propagation chamber to maintain high humidity. Ensure the cover does not touch the cuttings to avoid mold. Place the cuttings in a location with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can be too intense for young cuttings. -Transplanting: After about 8-12 weeks, check for root development by gently tugging on the cuttings. If you feel resistance, roots have formed. Rooting can take time, so be patient and avoid disturbing the cuttings too soon. Once roots are established, transplant the cuttings into small pots with a potting mix suitable for blueberries or a mix of peat and perlite. Gradually acclimate the young plants to outdoor conditions by exposing them to more light and outdoor temperatures over a couple of weeks. 4. Caring for lavender plants: Lavender plants can be a bit finicky, but several common issues could be causing them to struggle or die. Here are a few things to think about: Lavender needs well-draining soil. Heavy, clayey, or waterlogged soils can lead to root rot. Consider improving drainage by adding sand or gravel to the soil, or planting in raised beds or containers with good drainage. Lavender prefers slightly alkaline to neutral soil, ideally with a pH between 6.7 and 7.3. You can test your soil’s pH with a kit and amend it if necessary. Lavender is drought-tolerant and doesn’t like to sit in wet soil. Water sparingly and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause root rot and other issues. While lavender prefers less frequent watering, it still needs some moisture, especially in hot, dry conditions. Ensure it gets enough water during prolonged dry spells. Lavender requires full sun to thrive, which means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If it’s not getting enough light, it can become leggy and weak. Lavender generally prefers temperate climates. Extreme cold or heat can stress the plant Lavender doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer. Fungal diseases like root rot, powdery mildew, and rust can affect lavender. Ensure proper spacing for air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce disease risk. Lavender benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape and health. Prune after flowering to remove spent blooms and encourage new growth. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems, as they may not regenerate. Blueberries and lavender can be successfully planted together, but there are a few things to think about to ensure both plants thrive. Both blueberries and lavender prefer acidic to neutral soil. Blueberries thrive in a pH of 4.5 to 5.5, while lavender prefers a pH of around 6.7 to 7.3. This difference in pH requirements means you’ll need to find a balance or be prepared to amend the soil appropriately. Both plants need full sun to grow well. Ensure they receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Both plants require well-draining soil. Blueberries are prone to root rot in poorly drained soils, and lavender, though drought-tolerant, also dislikes wet feet. Blueberries need consistent moisture, especially during the growing season, whereas lavender prefers drier conditions and is more tolerant of drought. Overwatering can lead to issues for both plants, so careful watering practices are necessary. We hope this will give you some guidance for moving forward. Happy gardening!
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Discolored leaves - Mexican Petunia
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:07 pm
- My dad has a lot of mexican petunia at our beach house in North Carolina. They have developed this odd discoloration on the leaves (see pic below). They reside in predominantly shade and have been there forever. Any idea what this could be and how to fix it? I have them here in Richmond but mine have not done that.
- First - please let me apologize for the delay in getting a response over to you! The website had some updates done that unintentionally prevented our access to answer questions! We finally have it fixed and are back up and running. We appreciate your patience! This seems most likely to be gall mites. Wet and humid conditions which are typically prevalent throughout the month of August will facilitate the growth of gall mites. Mexican Petunias tend to prefer full sun, so being in the shade has probably exacerbated the problem. From what we have read, a horticultural oil like All-Seasons Oil Spray will get rid of these mites, although they should be used with caution as they can cause phytotoxicity at high temperatures. If you are interested in reading more about gall mites here is an informative article: https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/monroeco/2022/08/30/what-is-this-gall-mites/ As Master Gardeners, we would also be remiss not to mention that concerns for mexican petunia to be invasive. It is currently classified as highly invasive in Florida and we imagine other states will start listing it as such as well. It spreads via both numerous seeds and lateral roots and therefor can be difficult to control and/or remove. It could be a good time to consider removing this plant and replacing it with native options. Here are a few ideas that you could think about if you are looking to keep some color in the area: East coast dune sunflower, Helianthus debilis subsp. debilis, blue porterweed, Stachytarpheta jamaicensis, tickseed, Coreopsis leavenworthii, tropical sage, Salvia coccinea, or firecracker plant, Russelia equisetiformis can be used.
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Flyers
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Date Posted: Sun, Aug 04 - 11:50 pm
- I saw flyers for Homegrown National Parks at your table at a Lewis Ginter Botanical Gardens plant sale. I am interested in getting some of the flyers if you have them available as well as your flyer National Night Out next week. I look forward to your response in my email. Thank you.
- Hello! Thank you for reaching out! While we definitely support both Homegrown National Parks and National Night out, the Richmond Master Gardeners did not have a booth at the Lewis Ginter Plant sale and we do not have either of those flyers. I'm not certain which of the local Master Gardener groups attended the sale, but I would suggest trying Henrico Master Gardeners next. Good luck!
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Transfering from out of state
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 30 - 12:23 am
- Hello, I recently moved go Richmond and I am interested in transferring my Master Gardener certification here. I completed the MG training in Philadelphia and was certified in October 2023. I would love to be involved here and start volunteering. Is there a way for me to transfer my certification? Thanks so much!
- Hello! Welcome to Richmond! We hope you will enjoy it here. We would love to have you join the Richmond Master Gardeners. Richmond does not have an extension agent currently so we are trying to do our homework to figure out what is needed for your transfer. We believe that you will need to take a few additional classes related to this area specifically. The Richmond office is not offering classes at this time. It may be best if you connect with one of the surrounding counties to transfer your membership to Virginia and then it would be easy to transfer over to Richmond. I will follow up with an e-mail to you so that we can stay in touch and try to get you plugged in with Richmond!
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Becoming a Master Gardener
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Date Posted: Wed, Jul 24 - 4:44 pm
- Hello! I am interested in becoming a master gardener, and I have found a program through Powhatan & Goochland. However, I'm wondering if there is one offered through Richmond? Thank you!
- Hello! Thank you for reaching out about becoming a Master Gardener! There are currently limited opportunities across the commonwealth as there are many open extension agent positions, including in the city of Richmond. We are hopeful that there will be two spaces for Richmond Master Gardener trainees with the Chesterfield unit this year. We should have more information about this possibility by early September. Should you decide to go through the training program with Powhatan or Goochland, you could always transfer your membership to Richmond once you have completed the training process. I will send you a follow up e-mail so that we can stay in touch about this!
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Home consult
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Date Posted: Sat, Jul 13 - 11:59 am
- Can I master gardener come out to my home to see if I'm gardening the right way? This is my first year and I'm not sure if everything I'm doing is correct.
- I will send you an email to follow up on this with you. Once I have more information, I will see if we have a master gardener available.