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Black-eyed Susan
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Date Posted: Sat, Oct 02 - 4:51 pm
- Some of the leaves on my Black Eyed Susans have turned brown. Could this be a fungal infection? And if so, how can I treat it? Also, could you recommend a Black Eyed Susan that is disease resistant?
- Hello there, Without knowing the variety, I'm going to guess that it's Goldsturm, (it may not be but that is the most popular variety). These plants can succumb to fungal and bacterial issues. I can't specifically say what is ailing your plant but you can implement a few cultural changes to see if that helps. Your plants should have good drainage AND good air circulation. Soil and air would be the first factors to check. If you think you have that covered and the plant is not recovering it would be wise to remove the plant and discard it in the trash. If you have other plants that are in good health still you may want to treat them preemptively with a baking soda or neem spray. Additionally, if you want to plant again in that same spot where the ailing plant was you will need to use fresh soil in order to avoid a repeat of the situation. I came across a helpful list of species and cultivars of rudbeckia on a website of an organization based in Baltimore called Blue Water Baltimore. There are many other rudbeckias that may be more suitable for your particular situation. Here is the link--https://bluewaterbaltimore.org/blog/how-to-choose-a-black-eyed-susan/ There are many lovely varieties to choose from and those that can handle humidity would probably be a great choice. Good luck!
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invasives
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Date Posted: Fri, Aug 27 - 3:36 pm
- 1) I have rampant overgrowth of wisteria, as well as more limited poison oak in an area covered by pine straw, ornamentals on perimeter of area, but worst parts are distant from these bushes. 2) Also widespread seeding from a mimosa (since cut down, but too late) throughout the front lawn. I'm averse to using Round-Up, and wonder if you can offer solutions and guidance. Many thanks! Catherine Davis
- Hello there, There's a lot do here. The wisteria should probably be dug up and put in the trash. They are rampant vines. I have seen some people do an excellent job of training them and keeping them in bounds. It all depends on your maintenance tolerance. If they are left to run wild they will climb trees and kill them over time. The poison oak (which I think is actually native but no one actually wants it in their yard) should probably be smothered. I understand you not wanting to using Round-up or a similar product, I wouldn't use it either. If they are young and small plants depriving them of sunlight, water and nutrients will over time kill them off. It could take several months but doing it now with this hot weather will help the soil heat up to kill the plants. Tarps, cardboard, plastic sheeting, these should all work. This process works best in sunny sites, you didn't mention the exposure. I've also had success using straight white vinegar on any plants that survive and re-sprout. And of course, be sure to wear protective clothing, head to foot, any time you are working with poison oak or ivy and put the clothes in your waster with hot water when you're done. As far as the mimosa seedlings, I can only imagine hand pulling them. I don't know the area in question but using vinegar in your lawn will damage the grass and I'm sure you don't want that. Hand pulling is one of the most effective methods to use when possible because you can often get the root of the plant out. Having a good thick ground cover is the best bet for keeping out all those unwanted plants. If there's a vacancy, they'll occupy it!! Best of luck Catherine!!
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Squash Vine Borers
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 24 - 1:57 am
- Hi there! Thank you so much for doing this! I have a couple questions on squash vine borers, which have been a HUGE issue in my garden this year. I have been surgically removing the larvae from my curcurbit vines every few days for over two months now (along the way losing both of my zucchini plants and one patty pan squash plant; now I have one patty pan and 4 pumpkin plants remaining). My questions are: How much longer should I expect new larvae to bore into my plants? And is there anything I can do next season to organically prevent these pests (or perhaps control them in a less laborious fashion!)?
- Hello! Thank you for your question. It sounds like you have had a challenging season with this difficult pest. Your surgical removal of the larvae is one part of the solution, and it sounds like you have mastered that particular process. There are other things you can do as well. To answer your first question, it is important to understand the lifecycle of the squash vine borer. Eggs will first appear in our area in May, will hatch in early summer, and then the larvae will bore into the squash stem to feed for up to 4 weeks. When the larvae are mature at 4-6 weeks, they will leave the vine and the dig 1-2 inches in the soil to pupate. In our climate, we can sometimes have 2 generations of larvae in a season. So unfortunately, once infested, this pest can present a problem for most of the growing season. In addition to the surgical removal process of the larvae in the stems, you can also use an organically approved insecticide such as Spinosad or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). Apply the product on the leaf stems and the main stem of the plant - do not spray the flowers. Apply one of these insecticides once per week during the growing season. It will kill the borer's eggs and larvae quickly. Again, these are organically approved products, and we recommend staying away from any synthetic, non-organic insecticides. Another method for prevention early in the season is to cover the young plants with a floating row cover until flowering occurs. The row cover will keep out the insect in the critical early part of the season, and will still allow sun, water, and air to get to the plant. Once flowering begins, remove the cover to ensure pollination is not disrupted. If or when you do have an infected vine(s), seal them in a plastic bag before the larvae pupate. This will break the lifecycle of the squash vine borer. And finally, the other important practice is to till under all crop debris after harvest, which also disrupts larvae in the soil, and prevents buildup of the squash borer population. Implementation of these practices should minimize the need for constant surgical removal of the larvae, and yield healthier plants and better crop. Good luck, and please reach out with any other questions!
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Squash Bug Control
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Date Posted: Sun, Aug 22 - 3:10 pm
- I have been having a hard year with squash bugs taking over my zucchini plants. I am wondering if you have any tips on how to prepare the soil this winter to decrease their activity next season. Thank you!
- Good morning! Thank you for your question. You are certainly a step ahead in that you have identified the pest, and have probably read about effective means to control and hopefully rid many of the insects during the growing season. Nevertheless, they are difficult to eradicate. You are smart to be thinking about ways to overwinter the garden to minimize the problem next spring. Do you use mulch around your zucchini plants? Mulches give adult squash bugs a place to overwinter, and you want to remove that mulch if you have used it. Straw is a better alternative to use around these plants in the growing season. As fall/winter approaches, you want to be sure and clean your garden of old vines, crop, and leaf debris where adult bugs will hide over the winter. Squash bugs will rarely survive cold winters without places to hide. However, Richmond has been known to have very mild winters, and you surely don't want to give these bugs a place to hide. Once you have removed all debris (and mulch, if you have it), till the soil. This also helps eliminate the pests. If you have the room in your garden (which most city properties do not), it is also helpful to rotate your crops year to year to keep down insect population. But the best thing to do is completely clear the garden of all debris for the winter, and till the soil. One tip for next spring/summer, is to place boards or old shingles on the ground next to the garden (especially at night time). Squash bugs love to hide under these, and they make excellent traps for collecting the bugs in the morning, and then placing the bugs in a bucket of soapy water. And of course, regular inspection during the early growing season to collect these bugs from your plants helps as well. But definitely follow the guidelines for garden cleanup and tilling to properly overwinter, and that will certainly get you off to a clean start in the spring!
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Sod died-alternative
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 2:07 pm
- We have a very small 200sf area in the front of the house that was previously sod. That grass has died this summer (we think from a fungus) and we are thinking about doing something lower maintenance like a moss. Any recommendations or thoughts on that? The yard is am sun, north east facing, good drainage. Thanks!
- Hello there! Since your sod failed it would be worthwhile to have your soil tested. You can request a soil testing kit from the local extension office-the phone number for Richmond City is (804) 786-4150. You can check this link for the process: https://www.soiltest.vt.edu/sampling-insttructions.html. Also ask about the whether the demise of your sod was most likely due to incorrect ph or a fungus. Once you've established your soil's ph (whether it's an alkaline or acidic soil) you'll be able to make informed decisions about what plants to use. If you want to use moss, you'll need soil on the acidic side-5.5. I've included a link about mosses in lawns and how to grow a moss garden. Skip to the section entitled "Moss Gardens" for pertinent information. Here's the link: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/430/430-536/430-536.html You'll have to judge how much sun your space receives and whether or not that might be too much for mosses. In lieu of mosses, there are many alternative ground covers. I mentioned a number of them in the post Dog proof ground covers. Often a combination of them can be very pleasing and generally low maintenance. The addition of shrubs with some good mulch can also add interest with minimal upkeep. Enjoy the project!
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Dog-proof ground cover
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 2:06 pm
- Hi! We have a small back yard (no trees) in the Museum District that faces southeast. It's mostly dirt and crabgrass. We also have two dogs. Can you recommend a good, tough, affordable, relatively "dog-proof" ground cover? Something relatively soft that will be okay for bare feet would be idea, if I'm not asking for too much. Thank you!
- Ok, we'll have to laser focus to meet the requirements. I think a planting of dutch clover might do the trick for you. You're probably familiar with it, it tends to pop up in lawns frequently. You're going to have to kill the crabgrass before you attempt anything else. I generally suggest covering the area with tarps, newspaper, and/or cardboard to smother the weeds. However, this process could take a couple of months and you want to plant the clover about 6 weeks before a frost. If your space is small you could remove the weeds by hand, that would be quicker. Throw the pulled weeds in the trash, you don't want weed seeds winding up in your new clean space. Till the earth you've just cleaned up and spread the seed! Next-water. The clover will sprout in about 2 weeks. You'll need to keep the seed bed moist. Once the clover goes through a winter it will be established. Then you want to weed whack or mow the clover once a month when it's actively growing to keep the planting nice and thick. This choice would be the most cost-effective way to establish a walkable ground cover. An added benefit of clover is that is adds nitrogen to your soil. Of course, there are many other interesting choices for a sunny ground cover. You might want to experiment adding other plants and creating a bit of embroidery. There's always scotch or irish moss, mazus, ajuga, speedwell, or even creeping thyme, to name just a few other possibilities. Good luck with the project!
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Worms/Caterpillars in Grow Bags w/Vegetable Plants
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 2:00 pm
- Like many in the midwest, I have started a victory garden of sorts over the past few months, mostly in large grow bags on a pallet on my deck. This morning I noticed that the grow bag containing my romaine lettuce was full of either some very freaky worms or caterpillars, and while the worms seemed to be contained to the romaine bag, I worry for my adjacent chard, collard greens, and tomato bags. After a quick google search, I discovered two options that I was interested in: bacillus thuringiensis or diatomaceous earth, but I would like to know what option would be the most efficient in terms of use of product and frequency of applications and also the most environmentally friendly. If there is a better option than those two, I would be happy to learn also. Thank you!
- Good afternoon! Thank you for your question. My first thought when I read your question is that the solution certainly depends on the type of worm or caterpillar-like creature in your grow bag. If you have common earthworms or red wigglers, I’d say leave them alone as they are beneficial to the quality of the soil and will benefit the overall health of your plants. But it sounds like you may have something different which could ultimately harm your plant. If, for example, you have cutworms (which resemble caterpillar) and/or leaf miner larvae in your soil, you want to remove these. First, I would separate the infested grow bag from your other grow bags which contain your other vegetables. I would then pick off the visible worms/caterpillars with your fingers and submerge them in a container of warm soapy water. Although the products you mention may be effective at killing the catepillar-like creature you have, they do have harmful attributes. They may be considered organic but they still have low levels of toxic ingredients to bees. I would use an insecticidal soap solution such as neem oil or simply mix 3 tablespoons of dish soap to 1 gallon of water and pour into your infected soil. Apply this process weekly. And if you see any of these caterpillars on the plant leaves, pick them off and spray the neem oil/soap solution directly onto the plant - repeat the process weekly. And of course keep a close eye on your other grow bags with your other vegetables for any similar signs. Good luck with your garden, and wishing you a strong yield!
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Lawn options-seed or sod
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 2:00 pm
- I’m trying to decide what to do about my front lawn. It’s a little under 60 square yards. Everything is killed off and tarps are covering the ground now to keep weeds from growing. There is no shade, all day sun. I would like to know if Tall Fescue is the best choice and also should I seed or sod. Cost is not the issue since it’s a small area. I hope you can give me some advice.
- Well, I know you didn’t ask this but what about foregoing a lawn and planting a dooryard garden instead?. I’m not much of a grass person. A patch of clover is more to my liking, at least it gives the honey bees a place to land, adds some nitrogen to the soil. Maybe a combination of a lovely shrub border, a small tree, a mix of tall and low-growing perennials, groundcovers? Since it's a small area the expense wouldn’t be staggering and you can always phase in the plantings. Something to consider.... That being said, I think you’re doing a good job of preparing for a fall planting by covering the space and killing off the weeds. If I haven't persuaded you to take a different approach, I’ll try to answer your question about seed or sod. You didn't mention why your lawn was "killed off". Is there an issue with the soil? If so, you should request a soil test kit from the Richmond VA Cooperative Extension Main Office: (804) 786-4150. The results will let you know what, if any, amendments you'll need to add. I think the choice of a tall fescue is fine and fall is a good time to start a cool-season grass. When purchasing seed, check the bag to make sure you are buying all seed and no filler. Look for the two Virginia-Maryland labels affixed to the package so you know you are buying seed mixtures or blends which comply with the quality standards of the Extension Divisions of Virginia Tech and U of MD. First, you'll need to prep the soil. Remove all the dead weeds you've killed by covering and make sure there are no roots left in the ground. This can be tedious but it will pay off in the long run. Work in any amendments your soil test dictates. Add a layer of compost, you can till it in, or if your soil isn't compacted, adding 1-2 inches to the surface should suffice. Grade the soil with a rake so the surface is smooth and uniform. At this point you can seed. Disburse the seed with a spreader and go back and forth across the lawn, then in a perpendicular direction, attempting to get an even amount of seed across the surface of the lawn. You can add another fine layer of compost so that there is good contact between the seed and soil. (For a larger lawn you would roll the seed at this point.) Then you'll need to water immediately thereafter and continue to water until the seed germinates. (Be careful when watering, keep the soil moist, don't wash the seed away.) After that a total of 1-2 inches of water a week should keep the grass in good spirits. Hand pull weeds. An established lawn could take up to 2 years with seed. If this doesn't sound like fun, you can clean up the soil as above, amend as needed, grade it with a rake, and lay sod. Do not let the sod dry out. You'll need to water the sod daily for a couple of weeks (of course, less if there's rain). During this period the sod will be putting down shallow roots into your soil bed. Avoid walking on the sod during this period. After about a month the sod will have established a better root system. Around this time it will need to be mowed. Set the mower to 3 inches. The sod will provide a quicker route to a nice green lawn if the expense is acceptable. I hope I've covered all your options. Good luck with the project!
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August Beauty Gardenia
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 1:59 pm
- I have purchased an August Beauty Gardenia shrub and would like to give it the best chance to thrive in my yard. Would it be better to plant it in a spot with the most sun (also near the house), yet fairly exposed as no other plantings near, or in a bed which gets a good amount of sun and has established hedge (hollies) which may offer protection from the elements? Thank you in advance for your help.
- What a beautiful plant selection! You’ll enjoy the long blooming season of this plant, and of course their wonderful fragrance. In terms of best location, you should keep two things in mind. First, to ensure a prolific bloom all summer, you want to maximize early day sun exposure. If one of your described locations is on the east side of your yard and gets several hours of early day sun, that would be ideal, especially near a walkway or porch where you would enjoy the fragrance. I would try to avoid a location that is fully exposed to our late afternoon hot sun during July/August. Secondly, consider your soil and drainage in selecting your location. Gardenias like evenly moist acidic soil which provides good drainage. You want to avoid planting your gardenia where its roots would compete for moisture with nearby trees. The bed with hedge hollies would be fine if you have several hours of early day sun there. If you are planting your new gardenia this time of year, be sure and add plenty of organic matter to your soil, mulch around your plant, and provide plenty of water during this last phase of summer. Enjoy your beautiful plant, and let us know if further questions!
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Watering roses
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 1:48 pm
- Hi i have a row of drift roses on the front on my yard, they are in full sun. I had been watering them every other day with the lawn but noticed that a few bushes had yellowing leaves which then turned brown and crispy. I am assuming that is a sign of being overwatered? Any suggestions on how to make the flowers last so they don’t turn brown so quickly in the heat? Thanks!
- Hello there, My first instinct is that you are, in fact, over watering your roses. How long have the roses been planted? If it's been a few years then watering once or twice a week should be sufficient. Is the soil well draining? Roses don't want to sit in consistently wet soil. Are you able to gauge how much water, in inches, your roses are receiving. one to 2 inches of water (rain+water combined) should keep them healthy. I believe that's about 4-5 gallons of water a week. Also, I don't think the heat is causing the roses to brown but the effects of over watering are. Back off on the watering a bit. Try to avoid the foliage and water the soil around the plants and see that they get soaked rather than sprinkled. I suspect that less water weekly (avoiding the foliage whenever possible) and a couple of good soaks a week will make you and your roses happier. Good luck!