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Low-maintenance ground cover
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Date Posted: Wed, Mar 16 - 4:44 pm
- Do you have any suggestions for low maintenance, year-round plants to fill a small area (6ft x 2.5ft, not much depth) on a steep 45-degree hill in partial sun? Ivy was previously growing here but we are looking for a change. Thanks!
- Hello there, Good idea to get rid of the ivy!!! Since you're dealing with a slope you'll need a plant that's useful for erosion control. The first one that comes to mind is fragrant ash. It's a native low-growing shrub that colonizes a space so you won't need many plants to fill the area you have. The cultivar Gro-Low is about 2 ft high. Yellow-green flowers appear before the leaves in spring. The female plants have fuzzy red berries and the plant provides cover for birds and small mammals. It has excellent fall color, can take sun to shade and is fairly tolerant of most soils. While this is a fairly low-maintenance plant, all plants need appropriate amounts of water as they settle in for the first year or so. Best of luck with this change!
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Transplanting Hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Fri, Nov 05 - 1:58 pm
- I have hydrangeas in a partial sun location, mostly afternoon, and they have never done very well with adequate watering and fertilization If I’m going to move them to a new location, what scenario should they be in and are there any specific times that are better to move them?
- Greetings! Thank you for your question. Now is a great time to transplant your hydrangeas (Fall season), while the plants are dormant. Plant your hydrangeas in an area that gets morning sun, and afternoon shade. Hydrangeas do not like the hot afternoon sun we have here in Richmond in the summer months, and that may be why they have not done well in their current location. When you transplant, be sure and select a location that will drain well, and amend your soil with plenty of compost. Be sure and dig the hole large enough to accommodate the entire root ball. Water the hydrangea well once you place it in the new location. As you know, hydrangeas love to be watered in the warmer months, and they love nutrient-rich, composted soil. If they are planted near larger plants or trees, they may be competing for water during the warm months, and it will be important to keep them moist (but well drained). Good luck with your fall gardening!
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Overwintering Geraniums
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Date Posted: Thu, Nov 04 - 8:07 pm
- I have a geranium that was brought indoors a few days ago and still has blooms. How to I store it in the winter months? I heard you can cover it with a plastic bag and keep it in a dark, cool place - ie. garage. Is that Ok? Does it need to be watered? Thanks, Lori Pettit
- Hello Lori, You have a couple of options for your geranium. The first would be simply keep it indoors as a house plant assuming you have enough window space/light. Another option would be to unpot the plant, shake off as much soil as possible, and store the plant in a paper bag in a darkened cool space. Ideally, the temperature would range in the 45-55 degree area. A garage could work if you manage to keep the temperature at that range. I prefer the first method because you get to enjoy the plant all winter. There's also less chance you'll forget about it next spring!! It will most likely go through a transition phase and you may lose a few leaves but with enough sun it should continue to bloom (probably somewhat less) all winter and into early spring. If the geranium is very large and will possibly take up too much space inside, feel free to cut it back to about 8 inches. It will spend the winter putting on some more growth. As the temperature warms in spring you can start introducing it back to the great outdoors. Somewhere around mid-April (after the last frost) move it to a shady spot for a few days so it can acclimate and then move it to your preferred place. Good luck with this process!
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Ambrosia beetles-Dogwoods
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Date Posted: Tue, Oct 05 - 4:24 pm
- Ambrosia beetles-dogwoods
- Hello again, I have a few questions about your trees. I'm wondering how they were diagnosed. Did you see the frass tubes (kind of looks like tooth picks) on the trunk? Was there blue staining in the sapwood when they were removed? You may also have seen 'sawdust' at the base from the process of tunneling in the entry holes. Those would be definite indicators of the beetle. Generally, they attack trees under stress, such as drought or lack of appropriate amounts of scheduled watering. The pests may have been in the trees when you purchased them from the nursery. If so, the guarantee from the nursery may cover your loss. Assuming the reason your trees failed was due to ambrosia beetle and not another pest or disease, the arborist I consulted said that planting in the same location would be fine. I don't believe they have created any trees to be resistant to the ambrosia beetle. That being said, I think the chief thing is to provide the best cultural environment for the trees to survive. Well-draining soil is key along with proper placement and watering until the trees are established. Without knowing the exact environment you are planting in it would be difficult to recommend a particular tree. Look online for a list of native trees for this area and then consider the location you have and whether or not that tree would be a good fit. Consider the amount of light, moisture, available space for mature height, etc. Sorry those dogwoods didn't make it. Best of luck with your next choice.
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Ambrosia beetle-Dogwoods
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Date Posted: Sun, Oct 03 - 5:27 pm
- Last year I put in 4 dogwoods trees but ambrosia beetles appeared in April/May and the trees all died. Is there any type of native tree that is resistant to them? The trees were removed in June but are the beetles still in the soil? I'm afraid to put in any new trees now.
- Hello there, thank you for your question. It will take a little longer to answer because I'm reaching out to an arborist for assistance. Thanks for your patience!
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Black-eyed Susan
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Date Posted: Sat, Oct 02 - 4:51 pm
- Some of the leaves on my Black Eyed Susans have turned brown. Could this be a fungal infection? And if so, how can I treat it? Also, could you recommend a Black Eyed Susan that is disease resistant?
- Hello there, Without knowing the variety, I'm going to guess that it's Goldsturm, (it may not be but that is the most popular variety). These plants can succumb to fungal and bacterial issues. I can't specifically say what is ailing your plant but you can implement a few cultural changes to see if that helps. Your plants should have good drainage AND good air circulation. Soil and air would be the first factors to check. If you think you have that covered and the plant is not recovering it would be wise to remove the plant and discard it in the trash. If you have other plants that are in good health still you may want to treat them preemptively with a baking soda or neem spray. Additionally, if you want to plant again in that same spot where the ailing plant was you will need to use fresh soil in order to avoid a repeat of the situation. I came across a helpful list of species and cultivars of rudbeckia on a website of an organization based in Baltimore called Blue Water Baltimore. There are many other rudbeckias that may be more suitable for your particular situation. Here is the link--https://bluewaterbaltimore.org/blog/how-to-choose-a-black-eyed-susan/ There are many lovely varieties to choose from and those that can handle humidity would probably be a great choice. Good luck!
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invasives
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Date Posted: Fri, Aug 27 - 3:36 pm
- 1) I have rampant overgrowth of wisteria, as well as more limited poison oak in an area covered by pine straw, ornamentals on perimeter of area, but worst parts are distant from these bushes. 2) Also widespread seeding from a mimosa (since cut down, but too late) throughout the front lawn. I'm averse to using Round-Up, and wonder if you can offer solutions and guidance. Many thanks! Catherine Davis
- Hello there, There's a lot do here. The wisteria should probably be dug up and put in the trash. They are rampant vines. I have seen some people do an excellent job of training them and keeping them in bounds. It all depends on your maintenance tolerance. If they are left to run wild they will climb trees and kill them over time. The poison oak (which I think is actually native but no one actually wants it in their yard) should probably be smothered. I understand you not wanting to using Round-up or a similar product, I wouldn't use it either. If they are young and small plants depriving them of sunlight, water and nutrients will over time kill them off. It could take several months but doing it now with this hot weather will help the soil heat up to kill the plants. Tarps, cardboard, plastic sheeting, these should all work. This process works best in sunny sites, you didn't mention the exposure. I've also had success using straight white vinegar on any plants that survive and re-sprout. And of course, be sure to wear protective clothing, head to foot, any time you are working with poison oak or ivy and put the clothes in your waster with hot water when you're done. As far as the mimosa seedlings, I can only imagine hand pulling them. I don't know the area in question but using vinegar in your lawn will damage the grass and I'm sure you don't want that. Hand pulling is one of the most effective methods to use when possible because you can often get the root of the plant out. Having a good thick ground cover is the best bet for keeping out all those unwanted plants. If there's a vacancy, they'll occupy it!! Best of luck Catherine!!
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Squash Vine Borers
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 24 - 1:57 am
- Hi there! Thank you so much for doing this! I have a couple questions on squash vine borers, which have been a HUGE issue in my garden this year. I have been surgically removing the larvae from my curcurbit vines every few days for over two months now (along the way losing both of my zucchini plants and one patty pan squash plant; now I have one patty pan and 4 pumpkin plants remaining). My questions are: How much longer should I expect new larvae to bore into my plants? And is there anything I can do next season to organically prevent these pests (or perhaps control them in a less laborious fashion!)?
- Hello! Thank you for your question. It sounds like you have had a challenging season with this difficult pest. Your surgical removal of the larvae is one part of the solution, and it sounds like you have mastered that particular process. There are other things you can do as well. To answer your first question, it is important to understand the lifecycle of the squash vine borer. Eggs will first appear in our area in May, will hatch in early summer, and then the larvae will bore into the squash stem to feed for up to 4 weeks. When the larvae are mature at 4-6 weeks, they will leave the vine and the dig 1-2 inches in the soil to pupate. In our climate, we can sometimes have 2 generations of larvae in a season. So unfortunately, once infested, this pest can present a problem for most of the growing season. In addition to the surgical removal process of the larvae in the stems, you can also use an organically approved insecticide such as Spinosad or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). Apply the product on the leaf stems and the main stem of the plant - do not spray the flowers. Apply one of these insecticides once per week during the growing season. It will kill the borer's eggs and larvae quickly. Again, these are organically approved products, and we recommend staying away from any synthetic, non-organic insecticides. Another method for prevention early in the season is to cover the young plants with a floating row cover until flowering occurs. The row cover will keep out the insect in the critical early part of the season, and will still allow sun, water, and air to get to the plant. Once flowering begins, remove the cover to ensure pollination is not disrupted. If or when you do have an infected vine(s), seal them in a plastic bag before the larvae pupate. This will break the lifecycle of the squash vine borer. And finally, the other important practice is to till under all crop debris after harvest, which also disrupts larvae in the soil, and prevents buildup of the squash borer population. Implementation of these practices should minimize the need for constant surgical removal of the larvae, and yield healthier plants and better crop. Good luck, and please reach out with any other questions!
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Squash Bug Control
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Date Posted: Sun, Aug 22 - 3:10 pm
- I have been having a hard year with squash bugs taking over my zucchini plants. I am wondering if you have any tips on how to prepare the soil this winter to decrease their activity next season. Thank you!
- Good morning! Thank you for your question. You are certainly a step ahead in that you have identified the pest, and have probably read about effective means to control and hopefully rid many of the insects during the growing season. Nevertheless, they are difficult to eradicate. You are smart to be thinking about ways to overwinter the garden to minimize the problem next spring. Do you use mulch around your zucchini plants? Mulches give adult squash bugs a place to overwinter, and you want to remove that mulch if you have used it. Straw is a better alternative to use around these plants in the growing season. As fall/winter approaches, you want to be sure and clean your garden of old vines, crop, and leaf debris where adult bugs will hide over the winter. Squash bugs will rarely survive cold winters without places to hide. However, Richmond has been known to have very mild winters, and you surely don't want to give these bugs a place to hide. Once you have removed all debris (and mulch, if you have it), till the soil. This also helps eliminate the pests. If you have the room in your garden (which most city properties do not), it is also helpful to rotate your crops year to year to keep down insect population. But the best thing to do is completely clear the garden of all debris for the winter, and till the soil. One tip for next spring/summer, is to place boards or old shingles on the ground next to the garden (especially at night time). Squash bugs love to hide under these, and they make excellent traps for collecting the bugs in the morning, and then placing the bugs in a bucket of soapy water. And of course, regular inspection during the early growing season to collect these bugs from your plants helps as well. But definitely follow the guidelines for garden cleanup and tilling to properly overwinter, and that will certainly get you off to a clean start in the spring!
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Sod died-alternative
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 2:07 pm
- We have a very small 200sf area in the front of the house that was previously sod. That grass has died this summer (we think from a fungus) and we are thinking about doing something lower maintenance like a moss. Any recommendations or thoughts on that? The yard is am sun, north east facing, good drainage. Thanks!
- Hello there! Since your sod failed it would be worthwhile to have your soil tested. You can request a soil testing kit from the local extension office-the phone number for Richmond City is (804) 786-4150. You can check this link for the process: https://www.soiltest.vt.edu/sampling-insttructions.html. Also ask about the whether the demise of your sod was most likely due to incorrect ph or a fungus. Once you've established your soil's ph (whether it's an alkaline or acidic soil) you'll be able to make informed decisions about what plants to use. If you want to use moss, you'll need soil on the acidic side-5.5. I've included a link about mosses in lawns and how to grow a moss garden. Skip to the section entitled "Moss Gardens" for pertinent information. Here's the link: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/430/430-536/430-536.html You'll have to judge how much sun your space receives and whether or not that might be too much for mosses. In lieu of mosses, there are many alternative ground covers. I mentioned a number of them in the post Dog proof ground covers. Often a combination of them can be very pleasing and generally low maintenance. The addition of shrubs with some good mulch can also add interest with minimal upkeep. Enjoy the project!