Master Gardener – Answers
Newly Answered Questions
Have a question? Submit your question above, search our database of gardening know-how or browse our list of newly answered questions.
Transplanting Hydrangeas
-
Date Posted: Fri, Nov 05 - 1:58 pm
- I have hydrangeas in a partial sun location, mostly afternoon, and they have never done very well with adequate watering and fertilization If I’m going to move them to a new location, what scenario should they be in and are there any specific times that are better to move them?
- Greetings! Thank you for your question. Now is a great time to transplant your hydrangeas (Fall season), while the plants are dormant. Plant your hydrangeas in an area that gets morning sun, and afternoon shade. Hydrangeas do not like the hot afternoon sun we have here in Richmond in the summer months, and that may be why they have not done well in their current location. When you transplant, be sure and select a location that will drain well, and amend your soil with plenty of compost. Be sure and dig the hole large enough to accommodate the entire root ball. Water the hydrangea well once you place it in the new location. As you know, hydrangeas love to be watered in the warmer months, and they love nutrient-rich, composted soil. If they are planted near larger plants or trees, they may be competing for water during the warm months, and it will be important to keep them moist (but well drained). Good luck with your fall gardening!
Question
Answer
Overwintering Geraniums
-
Date Posted: Thu, Nov 04 - 8:07 pm
- I have a geranium that was brought indoors a few days ago and still has blooms. How to I store it in the winter months? I heard you can cover it with a plastic bag and keep it in a dark, cool place - ie. garage. Is that Ok? Does it need to be watered? Thanks, Lori Pettit
- Hello Lori, You have a couple of options for your geranium. The first would be simply keep it indoors as a house plant assuming you have enough window space/light. Another option would be to unpot the plant, shake off as much soil as possible, and store the plant in a paper bag in a darkened cool space. Ideally, the temperature would range in the 45-55 degree area. A garage could work if you manage to keep the temperature at that range. I prefer the first method because you get to enjoy the plant all winter. There's also less chance you'll forget about it next spring!! It will most likely go through a transition phase and you may lose a few leaves but with enough sun it should continue to bloom (probably somewhat less) all winter and into early spring. If the geranium is very large and will possibly take up too much space inside, feel free to cut it back to about 8 inches. It will spend the winter putting on some more growth. As the temperature warms in spring you can start introducing it back to the great outdoors. Somewhere around mid-April (after the last frost) move it to a shady spot for a few days so it can acclimate and then move it to your preferred place. Good luck with this process!
Question
Answer
Testing
-
Date Posted: Thu, Nov 04 - 7:44 pm
- Just testing to see what I get when I submit a question!
- Hello there!!!! This is what you get when you test. When you ask a real question, you get A LOT more. Thanks for checking in! Janice btw, I have no idea who submitted this testing question, but I have some idea.
Question
Answer
Spider Sac on plant
-
Date Posted: Sun, Oct 10 - 2:59 pm
- I have several long white strings of balls that looks like a moth cocoon or something from a plant in my backyard. Any idea what it is and if I should take it down? I wanted to submit a photo but it doesn't look like there's an option to do that. But they're about 2 in long and the balls look to be about the size of a very small pea and there's probably 8 or 10 of them hanging vertically in a string.
- Good morning! Thank you for your question. You have provided a very good description, and without actually seeing a picture, I'm guessing what you are seeing is a spider sac. Spider sacs can come in a variety of sizes and can range in color from white to yellowish to brown, and the individual sacs will be about the size of the spider which produced it. They typically appear as a thick netting of spider silk with multiple eggs inside, and can be found on plants. Some spiders make just one egg sac and others will make several small ones. You don't want to directly disturb a spider egg sac which has potentially viable eggs, or you risk releasing hundreds of small spiders. The best way to get rid of it is to first spray it with a mixture of 1/2 bleach and 1/2 water to kill the spiders/eggs. Use protective gloves and long sleeves. Once you spray it, you can then use an elongated tool to remove the sac (or you could cut that branch or leaves to which the sac is appended), and place in a plastic bag, tie it tightly, and throw it in the trash. Or you may choose to just leave the spider sac since it is outdoors, as it will not directly harm the plant, and may have some beneficial use in the garden (of course this depends on the type of spider). While spiders will not directly harm the plant, they do feed on both harmful as well as beneficial insects in the garden (including bees, butterflies, ladybugs). If what you have is in fact a spider sac, I would recommend getting rid of it to be on the safe side. Hope this helps, and happy gardening!
Question
Answer
Ambrosia beetles-Dogwoods
-
Date Posted: Tue, Oct 05 - 4:24 pm
- Ambrosia beetles-dogwoods
- Hello again, I have a few questions about your trees. I'm wondering how they were diagnosed. Did you see the frass tubes (kind of looks like tooth picks) on the trunk? Was there blue staining in the sapwood when they were removed? You may also have seen 'sawdust' at the base from the process of tunneling in the entry holes. Those would be definite indicators of the beetle. Generally, they attack trees under stress, such as drought or lack of appropriate amounts of scheduled watering. The pests may have been in the trees when you purchased them from the nursery. If so, the guarantee from the nursery may cover your loss. Assuming the reason your trees failed was due to ambrosia beetle and not another pest or disease, the arborist I consulted said that planting in the same location would be fine. I don't believe they have created any trees to be resistant to the ambrosia beetle. That being said, I think the chief thing is to provide the best cultural environment for the trees to survive. Well-draining soil is key along with proper placement and watering until the trees are established. Without knowing the exact environment you are planting in it would be difficult to recommend a particular tree. Look online for a list of native trees for this area and then consider the location you have and whether or not that tree would be a good fit. Consider the amount of light, moisture, available space for mature height, etc. Sorry those dogwoods didn't make it. Best of luck with your next choice.
Question
Answer
Ambrosia beetle-Dogwoods
-
Date Posted: Sun, Oct 03 - 5:27 pm
- Last year I put in 4 dogwoods trees but ambrosia beetles appeared in April/May and the trees all died. Is there any type of native tree that is resistant to them? The trees were removed in June but are the beetles still in the soil? I'm afraid to put in any new trees now.
- Hello there, thank you for your question. It will take a little longer to answer because I'm reaching out to an arborist for assistance. Thanks for your patience!
Question
Answer
Black-eyed Susan
-
Date Posted: Sat, Oct 02 - 4:51 pm
- Some of the leaves on my Black Eyed Susans have turned brown. Could this be a fungal infection? And if so, how can I treat it? Also, could you recommend a Black Eyed Susan that is disease resistant?
- Hello there, Without knowing the variety, I'm going to guess that it's Goldsturm, (it may not be but that is the most popular variety). These plants can succumb to fungal and bacterial issues. I can't specifically say what is ailing your plant but you can implement a few cultural changes to see if that helps. Your plants should have good drainage AND good air circulation. Soil and air would be the first factors to check. If you think you have that covered and the plant is not recovering it would be wise to remove the plant and discard it in the trash. If you have other plants that are in good health still you may want to treat them preemptively with a baking soda or neem spray. Additionally, if you want to plant again in that same spot where the ailing plant was you will need to use fresh soil in order to avoid a repeat of the situation. I came across a helpful list of species and cultivars of rudbeckia on a website of an organization based in Baltimore called Blue Water Baltimore. There are many other rudbeckias that may be more suitable for your particular situation. Here is the link--https://bluewaterbaltimore.org/blog/how-to-choose-a-black-eyed-susan/ There are many lovely varieties to choose from and those that can handle humidity would probably be a great choice. Good luck!
Question
Answer
Master Gardener Demo Gardens
-
Date Posted: Thu, Sep 30 - 2:42 pm
- Hi, Does RVA have any demo gardens like MGNV has in Arlington and Alexandra? Is there anyway to volunteer? Thank you, sue
- Good morning! Unfortunately, the Richmond Master Gardener Program does not have any demo gardens. I am aware of demo gardens in other parts of the state, as well as some in other states, but at this time we do not operate one here in Richmond. That's not to say we won't develop one in the future! We have had discussions in our Master Gardener group, but as this time no specific plans are in the works. As far as volunteering, are you currently a Master Gardener? If you are, you can contact any of the local Virginia Cooperative Extension offices (Richmond City's VCE number is 804.786.4150; or you could contact the VCE programs in Chesterfield, Henrico, or Hanover) to find out about volunteer opportunities available to Master Gardeners. If you are not a trained Master Gardener, you may want to reach out to one of the public gardens in Richmond (i.e. Maymont, or Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden) who have organized volunteer programs for individuals who are passionate about gardening. Thanks again for your question, Sue, and good luck!
Question
Answer
Fall Planting
-
Date Posted: Thu, Sep 23 - 6:46 pm
- We are looking for advice on planning for the front of the house as we just took out a bunch of old bushes. I saw where Chesterfield, Hanover and Henrico have a master gardener that comes to your house. Is there anyone who can help us out in Richmond? Thanks, Andrea
- Good afternoon, and thanks for your question! At this time, we are not providing onsite garden consultations due to the pandemic, but I would be happy to provide some advice over the phone. We can talk about your space size where you'd like to do your planting, direction orientation (i.e. north facing, or other), plant type preferences, and other details that would help me provide some recommendations and advice on planting. If you'd like to take this approach, feel free to email me at dcmoorerva@gmail.com and I'll respond and we can set a time to discuss over the phone. Thanks again for your question, and I hope to hear from you!
Question
Answer
Recyling Plants
-
Date Posted: Wed, Sep 15 - 12:39 am
- Hello, Where can I recycle live plants in good condition?
- Hello there, What a good question, thanks for bringing this to our attention! I reached out to some other master gardeners and we've come up with a few options. The first one would be to post your available plants on Facebook Marketplace (I realize that not everyone is on FB so this may not work), a second option might be Craigslist, a third is Lewis Ginter-they will take plant donations but I believe it will depend on what plants you have available. I would also encourage you to ask your neighbors, some neighborhoods have informal plant swaps and that would be a great way to find a new home for your plants and maybe meet some new neighbors. Your question got us all thinking about ways to organize plant exchanges, so stay tuned for new developments. I hope your generosity is duly rewarded!