Master Gardener – Answers
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Reblooming azaleas
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Date Posted: Mon, May 30 - 7:03 pm
- My azaleas are the type that bloom several times a year and are doing very well. They are several years old and I would like to know when they should be fertilized. Thanks.
- Hello there, Good to know the plants are doing well. Since this is the case I wouldn't recommend using any kind of commercial fertilizer. An annual top dressing with some good compost and a light dressing of mulch such as pine needles, pine bark, or maybe hemlock should provide the nutrients your shrubs need. I don't recommend using any of the dyed wood chips. Those can rob your plants of nutrients in their quest to decompose. Also, less is better with mulch, a dressing of one to two inches deep will suffice. Happy plants are easy to care for!
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Native Plants
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Date Posted: Mon, Apr 25 - 4:23 pm
- I’m interested in filling a mulched area in my yard in the city with native plants. Do you have any recommendations for layout and where to buy? I was hoping for a rain garden but it’s not enough space. It’s about 10 feet by 3 feet.
- Hello there! What a timely question. Master Gardeners are exploring this very subject on May 7th at the park at the Main Library between 1-4. There will be a presentation on invasive plants by the JRPS Invasive Plant Task Force followed by Master Gardeners presenting on native plants with plenty of time for questions and answers. Without knowing the orientation, amount of sun, and soil conditions, etc., it's difficult to make a suggestion for your planting. However, I would recommend making as many layers as possible-shade, understory, shrubs, perennials and groundcovers. I know it's not a large area but you would be surprised how many plants can inhabit a space that size. You could omit the shade tree perhaps and plant an understory or two-one at each end of the space. Then infill with a mix of shrubs and perennials and finally underplant with a groundcover or two. This diverse mix will be very attractive to many species of birds, mammals, insects, etc. Please come with your questions and curiosity on May 7th!!
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Pests and diseases
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Date Posted: Mon, Apr 11 - 6:11 pm
- Hi there, We just moved into our home last fall and I’m just getting into gardening. I have a few issues I’d love some help with, namely, treating leaf diseases on a young azalea with freeze damaged buds, a large overgrown camellia with what I think is tea scale and flower blight, and leaf spots on mophead hydrangeas. There’s so much information out there but would love help identifying these issues correctly and providing timely care while we’re still in early Spring. Thank you! Emily
- Hello Emily, Good to hear you've inherited a nice garden. There is always a learning curve with a new garden. I think the best way to answer your questions is by using the Plant Disease Clinic. The Richmond VCE office is closed until a new agent is in place. In the meantime, the Chesterfield office is generously offering this service. The clinic does charge a fee of $35 for samples. I'm including a link to their office so you contact them directly for instructions on the process-- vce@chesterfield.gov Best of luck and happy gardening!
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Pollinators
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Date Posted: Sat, Mar 26 - 12:31 am
- What can I do to keep white butterflies from my garden plants that need pollinators, such as squash.
- Hello there, The white butterflies you're referring to, are those active now in your garden? If so, those are cabbage white butterflies. The larvae of those butterflies tend to feed on cabbage, collards, kale and some other greens (Brassica family of plants). If you want to keep them away from these crops, fine netting is your best bet. The butterflies lay eggs underneath the host plant's leaves. The larvae are caterpillars whose coloring closely matches the host plant. They are voracious eaters so it's good to check the plants under the net to be sure none have escaped your notice. If you're looking to be sure to have pollinators for your squash plants be sure to plant a variety of herbs, flowers, shrubs and trees in your yard. Using native flowers and shrubs will provide pollen and nectar. Native shrubs and trees also provide shelter and nesting materials for bees and other beneficial insects. A variety of flower color and shape will attract a wider variety of pollinators. I hope I have answered your question. if not, please reach out again. Best of luck with your garden.
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Compost
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Date Posted: Fri, Mar 18 - 8:48 pm
- Hello, I tried container gardening last year for the first time and really loved it. I’m looking to try again this year. I’ve collected a lot of free pots over the year, and have a good amount of space outside for them, but I am low income and can’t afford to buy more than a few bags of potting soil. Do you know of any cheap or free soil or compost give away programs in richmond? I can’t compost myself here because I live in a apartment that is susceptible to roaches.
- Hello there, So glad to hear you're planting in containers. It's amazing how well that can work. While there is no public resource for free or cheap compost (hopefully someday....) I reached out to the other Master Gardeners and a couple of them are happy to share some of their own. If you email me at jrreilly2323@gmail.com, I can send you the contact information for the individuals that have compost to share. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
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Low-maintenance ground cover
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Date Posted: Wed, Mar 16 - 4:44 pm
- Do you have any suggestions for low maintenance, year-round plants to fill a small area (6ft x 2.5ft, not much depth) on a steep 45-degree hill in partial sun? Ivy was previously growing here but we are looking for a change. Thanks!
- Hello there, Good idea to get rid of the ivy!!! Since you're dealing with a slope you'll need a plant that's useful for erosion control. The first one that comes to mind is fragrant ash. It's a native low-growing shrub that colonizes a space so you won't need many plants to fill the area you have. The cultivar Gro-Low is about 2 ft high. Yellow-green flowers appear before the leaves in spring. The female plants have fuzzy red berries and the plant provides cover for birds and small mammals. It has excellent fall color, can take sun to shade and is fairly tolerant of most soils. While this is a fairly low-maintenance plant, all plants need appropriate amounts of water as they settle in for the first year or so. Best of luck with this change!
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Becoming a Master Gardener
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Date Posted: Tue, Mar 08 - 9:14 pm
- Hi, I want to become a Master Gardener! What are the deadlines to apply and how does that process look like? Thanks!
- Hello there, So nice to hear you are interested in becoming a Master Gardener! The program is part of the Virginia Cooperative Extension and has offices in most counties in Virginia. Unfortunately, Richmond City does not currently have an extension agent to provide the training you are interested in. However, there are operational training programs in 3 nearby counties. Below are the 3 county offices and the contact phone numbers: Henrico (804) 501-5160, Chesterfield (804) 768-7576, Hanover (804) 752-4310. The basic components of the program are completing the training, completing the required hours for volunteering and education as an intern, and continuing to volunteer in your community annually. There are many opportunities for volunteering and providing education through community outreach. Please review the website: https://ext.vt.edu/lawn-garden/master-gardener/Become-a-Master-Gardener.html. It's full of information you'll find useful. Best of luck with your plans. We look forward to working with you!.
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Pests & Disease -- Rosemary
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Date Posted: Mon, Feb 21 - 7:57 pm
- I seem to have little brown nodules all over my Rosemary and it seems to be reducing its vigor and making the leaves look like they have aphids one them [the green is draining out of them]. Do you know what causes this? does it make the rosemary not good for eating? If I treat it, what would I use and how would it effect eating it? I coudl send a photo if that would help. Thank you. Lynn
- Hello there, Based on your description I think the problem is bacterial leaf spot. I can't say for certain though. I've attached a link from the Missouri Botanical Garden about bacterial leaf spots and blights. If you open the link and scroll down, you'll find 2 photos of rosemary side by side. The one on the right may depict the problem you are encountering. Be sure to read all 8 items about prevention and control. You'll read that there is not much to be done if the plant is too far gone. You can try cutting the stems that are affected but be certain to clean your tools as directed in the article. Depending on the severity it may be wise to properly dispose of the plant and replace it with a healthy new one while adhering to all the points made about prevention. I hope this helps solve your problem. Sometimes replacement is the best choice https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/bacterial-spots.aspx
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Pruning Hydrangea
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Date Posted: Fri, Feb 18 - 12:22 am
- how far back can i cut my hydraingia
- Hello there, The first question I have is: why do you want to prune your hydrangea? The main reasons for pruning are that the plant is either too large or there is dead or possibly diseased wood that needs to be removed. The other question I have is what type of hydrangea are you thinking of pruning? There are numerous types and various species. I am going to assume that the plant in question is what is commonly known as a bigleaf hydrangea (because those seem to be the most prevalent variety). These typically have the mop-headed type of bloom or a lacecap bloom. Older varieties of these will only bloom on old wood but many of the newer varieties bloom on both old and new wood. The reason this distinction is important is that if you have a plant that blooms on old wood and you prune those stems you will be robbed of blooms come summer (you will have cut them off). That would be a shame. If you're not sure if you have a new or old variety, it is best to approach pruning very carefully. Attached is a link from a VA Tech publication with photos of both old and new stems so you can see the difference. Look for the heading in the publication that says Bigleaf Hydrangea and then scroll to the photo of the plant in winter to see which stems should be cut. While you are looking at the publication, review the other types of hydrangeas listed to be certain about the type you have. https://chesapeake.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/chesapeake_ext_vt_edu/files/pruning-hydrangeas.pdf. While you are pruning stems be sure to cut any that look dead or diseased. Clean your pruners after cutting diseased stems. Please keep in mind that you may not need to prune your hydrangea. If you enjoy the size it currently is and it doesn't seem to have any dead wood, you've saved yourself a gardening chore. Happy gardening!
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Strawberries Varieties for Richmond
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Date Posted: Sun, Feb 13 - 9:09 pm
- What are the best varietals of strawberries to grow in RVA?
- Hello there, Glad to see that you are thinking Spring! You have a number of choices for this area. There are several types of strawberries: June-bearing, day neutral and ever-bearing. I believe you'll be most successful planting the June-bearing varieties here. The other two options are more suitable for cooler climates. Some basic requirements for fruiting are to make sure you're planting an area that gets full sun (usually 6-8 hours a day), most likely near to your vegetable garden. However, do not plant in sites where tomato, potato or eggplant were previously planted to keep down disease (verticillium wilt and some others). Be aware that strawberries will reproduce quickly, this can be both a pro and con depending on how much space you have. Clip the runners if you are most interested in having larger berries on the mother plant. It's often suggested that strawberries can be integrated into an ornamental garden but I've never had very good luck with that approach but feel free to experiment. They could make a nice ground cover in the right setting. Some recommended varieties from VA Tech are: June Bearing--Sweet Charlie, Camino Real, FlavorFest. Of course there is always our native strawberry from which many cultivars are produced--fragraria virginiana. If you would like more information on this subject, I've attached a link. https://ext.vt.edu/content/dam/ext_vt_edu/topics/agriculture/commercial-horticulture/small-fruit/fruits-in-the-home-garden.pdf. Best of luck with the berries!