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Rhododendron Questions
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Date Posted: Thu, May 08 - 11:14 pm
- I have an established rhododendron and a couple of questions 1. Some leaves tern yellow and die and fall off 2. Others show yellowing but remain 3. New shoots form at the base but die never to mature 4 is there any way to encourage new growth on the old branches
- Thanks for reaching out with your rhododendron questions! You’ve made some great observations, and your plant is definitely trying to tell you something. Here are a few possible explanations and tips based on what you described: Yellowing and Leaf Drop: Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal, especially for older inner leaves. However, widespread or early-season yellowing in Richmond can also point to stress from heat or underlying root issues, particularly since rhododendrons are naturally cool-climate, understory plants. Our warm springs and hot summers can make them more susceptible to systemic diseases or environmental stress. Persistent Yellow Leaves: This could be a sign of sun stress—rhododendrons prefer morning sun with dappled afternoon shade. Too much direct, hot afternoon sun can cause the kind of yellowing you're seeing. Poor drainage or soil that’s too alkaline can also cause nutrient uptake issues, leading to chlorosis (leaf yellowing). New Shoots Dying Back: When new shoots at the base fail to mature, it often points to root zone stress, such as poor drainage, fungal root diseases, or heat stress. Check that mulch isn't piled too high against the base and that the soil is staying moist but not soggy. Encouraging New Growth on Old Branches: Yes! Light pruning in early spring, just after flowering, can stimulate new growth. Avoid heavy pruning all at once; instead, gradually thin out leggy or unproductive branches over time. Make cuts just above a healthy bud or leaf whorl to encourage branching. Good luck with your rhododendron!
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Growing Elderberries
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 12 - 12:43 pm
- Hello! I was just gifted a native elderberry and I'm looking for some advice. I also plan to get another one so they can bear fruit. I've been watching tons of videos but they all seem contradictory! I live in Richmond (Battery Park) with an urban yard - it's a bit bigger than typical row house size, and bordered by a shared fence on each side. I have a few areas to plant the elderberry where it will get at least 8 hours of full sun a day. My concern is that I want to keep the bush somewhat contained - I know they can grow quite large, but is there a way to prune it so it stays under 7-8 feet but still bears fruit? And, do you have any advice on how to stay on top of root suckers? I'm not sure how far the suckers will travel, but if they head into my neighbors yard I obviously wouldn't be able to see the sprout to know where to cut the root. I also heard the roots are quite hardy, so I'm trying to consider whether to plant near a retaining wall. In the videos I'm watching the plants all seem pretty naturally contained (versus something like blackberry which gets out of control), but I want to do everything I can to help out. Hoping I can make this work! I appreciate any advice you have. If helpful, I can send a photo of my backyard. Thank you, Julie
- What a lovely gift! I hope this will be something you are able to enjoy for years to come. And you are right! You will need a second one for cross pollination. We don't typically think of elderberries being wildly invasive, so I'd expect with your awareness of the need to keep an eye out for suckers, and your desire to prune it to keep it at a reasonable size, you will be pleased with your elderberry. A couple of pruning tips: Once the plant is established (after year 1 or 2), you can cut back about 1/3 of the oldest stems to the ground each year to encourage new growth. To keep overall height in check, you can also cut the remaining stems back to your desired height (just above strong buds). Many gardeners cut stems to about 3–4 feet in early spring, which results in a bush that finishes around 6–8 feet tall by summer. Managing suckers: You’re right—elderberries do sucker from the roots and can spread over time, though they are usually less aggressive than blackberries. The suckers typically emerge within a few feet of the main plant, though they can travel farther in ideal conditions. To manage them, check around the base of the plant regularly during the growing season and cut suckers at the soil line or dig back to the root and clip at the source. You might also consider planting your elderberries in a root barrier ring—digging a trench and installing landscape edging 12–18" deep around the planting area to contain the roots. Planting near a retaining wall: Elderberry roots aren’t known for damaging structures like a retaining wall, but they are persistent. If you're concerned about suckers creeping into a neighbor’s yard or through shared fences, planting 3–5 feet away from those boundaries is a good buffer. That space also makes it easier to walk around the plant and manage pruning or harvesting. Hope this helps as you decide where to plant! Best of luck to you! Hope you will enjoy your elderberries for years to come.
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Finding Natives for a tough spot
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 17 - 4:33 pm
- Hello! We have a particularly difficult section of our garden in Richmond: it's a sloped spot between the driveway and the house, faces south, has pretty lousy soil, and is shaded by nearby oak tree. The only thing that we've been able to grow there is rosemary; everything else we've tried hasn't made it. Are there any native perennials that might survive?
- That sounds like a tricky spot, but there are some native perennials that could thrive in those conditions! Given that the area is south-facing but shaded, has poor soil, and is on a slope, you'll need plants that are drought-tolerant, shade-tolerant, and able to handle soil erosion. Here are some great Virginia native perennials that might work: Low-Maintenance Shrubs American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) – Handles some shade and poor soil, and has striking purple berries in fall. Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) – Tolerates shade and provides late fall yellow blooms. Perennials for Shade & Dry Conditions Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) – A beautiful, drought-tolerant flower that does well in partial shade. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) – A tough native with lovely pinkish-purple flowers in spring. Golden Ragwort (Packera aurea) – Great for erosion control and pollinators, with bright yellow flowers in spring. Ornamental Grasses (For Texture & Erosion Control) Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Drought-tolerant and provides great fall color. (A favorite of mine!) Bottlebrush Grass (Elymus hystrix) – A native grass that thrives in dry shade. Since rosemary has survived, that suggests it’s well-drained soil, possibly a bit alkaline due to the concrete driveway. You may need to amend the soil with compost to help native plants establish, but once they do, they should require little maintenance.
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Wildflower Seedballs
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Date Posted: Fri, Mar 14 - 12:46 pm
- My club, at VCU will be hosting a seed ball making event next week Monday! We were hoping to use wildflowers and other small foliage that should grow with wildflowers native to the capital region. could you share knowledge or knowledge of resources with us? Maybe where we could acquire seeds for cheap/nothing as well as tips on how to go about planting the seed balls?
- Hosting a seed ball-making event is a fantastic initiative to promote native wildflowers and support local ecosystems in the Richmond area. Here's some guidance to help your club prepare: 1. Selecting Native Wildflower Seeds: Choosing species native to Virginia ensures that the plants are well-adapted to the local environment and provide optimal benefits to pollinators and other wildlife. Consider incorporating the following native wildflowers into your seed balls: Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa): A perennial that serves as a host plant for monarch butterflies and blooms from April to September. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta): A versatile plant that can be annual, biennial, or perennial, attracting birds like the American goldfinch and blooming between June and October. Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa): This perennial attracts butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds, with blooms from June to September. Smooth Blue Aster (Symphyotrichum laeve): A perennial that serves as a host plant for the pearl crescent butterfly, blooming from August to October. 2. Acquiring Seeds at Low or No Cost: Virginia Native Pollinator Seed Packets: The Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources offers seed packets containing native wildflowers suitable for various regions in Virginia. These mixes are designed to benefit pollinators and enhance local biodiversity. Seed Libraries: In the fall, the Master Gardeners collected many native seeds from the Amelia Street Urban Forest and shared them in the seed library at the Main Branch Richmond Public Library. I haven't checked back recently, but you are welcome to use whatever is left there! There are many other seed libraries around the city, some may have wildflower seeds in them VCU Office of sustainability: If you are not already connected with them, they would potentially be a good resource for helping you source free or low cost seeds. 3. Tips for Making and Planting Seed Balls: This website has two great recipes for making seed balls, one using paper as a base, and the other using soil and flour: https://chicagocommunitygardens.org/2020/04/22/for-earth-day-or-any-day-make-a-seed-bomb/ For planting tips, this will ultimately depend on what seeds you end up getting. Some seeds do best getting planted in the fall in order to go through a cold stratification. And others will be successful if planted this spring. Seed balls can be placed on soil just before rain and the precipitation will help distribute them into the soil and aid in germination. 4. Additional Resources: Plant Virginia Natives (pantvirginianatives.org): This initiative provides comprehensive information on native plants, including where to purchase them and guidance on creating pollinator-friendly habitats. Keep Virginia Beautiful (keepvirginiabeautiful.org): This organization offers resources and initiatives aimed at enhancing Virginia's natural and scenic environment, including distributing wildflower seed packets to promote beautification and support pollinators. Good luck with your seed ball making event! We will keep an eye out around the city for more native flowers to pop up :)
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Growing Herbs
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 03 - 11:09 pm
- How to grow healthy Herb plant? Plants like Basil, cilantro, Rosemarys.
- Growing herbs is so rewarding! I love having what I need for a recipe growing outside the back door! Basil, cilantro, and rosemary each have their own needs, so here’s a quick guide to help them thrive: Basil: Loves warmth and the sun and needs at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily, prefers well-draining, nutrient-rich soil, keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy — water when the top inch feels dry, pinch off the top leaves regularly to encourage bushy growth and prevent flowering (which can make the leaves bitter), snip stems just above a leaf pair — this helps the plant grow fuller. Cilantro: Prefers cooler weather and about 4–6 hours of sun, this is a great spring and fall plant but typically doesn't survive in Virginia summers, too much heat can make it bolt (flower) quickly, likes loose, well-drained soil with some compost mixed in, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogging, cilantro grows fast — consider planting seeds every few weeks for a continuous harvest. Rosemary: Thrives with at least 6–8 hours of full sun, prefers sandy, well-drained soil — it hates sitting in water, let the soil dry out between waterings. Rosemary prefers to stay on the drier side, trim regularly to keep the shape and encourage new growth, there is a lot of Rosemary in our area that survives the winter, but its not a big fan of winter and does best if its in a warm sunny spot or you could bring it inside for the winter. Happy gardening! Enjoy your herbs!
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Gardening Basics
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 03 - 11:00 pm
- Learn basics of gardening
- It’s wonderful to hear that you’re interested in learning more about gardening! Starting out can feel a bit overwhelming, but with the right resources and a little patience, it can be incredibly rewarding. Here are a few first steps and resources to help you get started: 1. Understand Your Growing Zone: Knowing your USDA Hardiness Zone will help you choose the right plants for your area. The City of Richmond and nearby areas are in the 7b zone. (If you are outside of the city you can find your zone here by entering your zip code: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov) 2. Start Small: Consider beginning with a small garden bed, container garden, or even a few pots on a patio. Herbs, lettuce, and tomatoes are great starter plants! 3. Soil Health is Key: Good gardening starts with good soil. We always recommend getting a soil test to help understand what amendments you might need. Soil test kits are provided by the Master Gardeners through the Extension Office at many of the Richmond Public Libraries. 4. The Extension office has a lot of resources available through their website https://ext.vt.edu/lawn-garden.html and also by following their social media accounts @virginia_cooperative_extension 5. There are many gardening classes offered throughout the greater Richmond area, especially as spring arrives. You can look for classes at our local nurseries like Sneeds, Strange's and many others. Also, Lewis Ginter often has many gardening classes. 6. One of my favorite vegetable gardening books is "Grow Great Vegetables in Virginia" by Ida Wallace. This book is specific to our area and offers a lot of great step by step guidance for each month. Gardening is a rewarding hobby that helps you connect with nature, reduce stress, and enjoy the satisfaction of watching things grow. Whether you’re growing flowers, vegetables, or herbs, it brings beauty, peace, and a sense of accomplishment. I always think of it as an experiment too. Each year I learn things that worked well, as well as things that didn't. Good luck, and have fun!
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Native landscaping
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Date Posted: Fri, Dec 06 - 4:13 pm
- Hello! I'm interested in making my property more sustainable by adding wildflower meadows and native plantings to support the wildlife. I am located in Manakin Sabot. If there are any book resources or other websites you would recommend I would greatly appreciate it. I am an architect by training and have considered getting more of an education in landscape design and horticulture to help make the biggest impact on our community through my projects, both at home and for others. Thanks so much!
- Hello! We love your passion for bringing more wildflowers and natives to your yard. A few resources for you to look into: Homegrown National Park: https://homegrownnationalpark.org/ and any books by Doug Tallamy. There is a guide for Native Virginia plants that you can reference: https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives. Lewis Ginter often offers classes about landscaping and natives and they currently have some spring classes available for sign up on their website. Moulton Hot Natives is also a very knowledgeable resource and a great place to get plants and seeds: https://moultonhotnatives.square.site/ Whenever you are in the city, I suggest driving by Amelia Street School. Behind the school are several different beautiful native beds that may give you some inspiration! I hope these resources will help get you started and you will have fun and learn a lot along the way!
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Fall/Winter Vegetables for the home garden
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Date Posted: Sun, Nov 03 - 8:07 pm
- Hello,i would like to know what type of vegetables in this time of year i can have in home conditions like a small garden? Thank you so much for respond and please if there is any useful resource that i can get some innovative idea please let me know i would really appreciate that,have a wonderful day. Thank you and have a flower day:)
- One of my favorite resources for vegetable gardening in Virginia is the Grow Great Vegetables in Virginia book by Ira Wallace and the Virginia Extension Home Garden Vegetable Planting guide is also an excellent resource: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/426/426-331/SPES-170.pdf Many people are still harvesting beans, broccoli, carrots, greens, etc from their fall gardens although it is a little late in the year to try to get these planted now. The thing to plant right now is garlic for a June harvest. (I always plant garlic around Halloween to harvest around Father's day) Because we have been having a very warm fall, you could still try to plant carrots, beets, winter radishes, spinach or kale and see if the weather cooperates for you. This is also a great time of year to start planning what you will plant as spring approaches! You can then think about what seeds you may want to purchase and if you have space to start seeds inside and if so gathering the supplies. I also recommend keeping an eye on our local garden nurseries (Sneeds, Great Big Greenhouse, Strange's) after the new year as many will have classes for vegetable gardening available. Lewis Ginter also offers great classes. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Tree Girdling
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Date Posted: Tue, Oct 08 - 11:35 pm
- I have what appears to be a very intense girdling root situation happening with my ruby red falls (red bud cultivar). The top of the tree died off entirely this year so I cut the dead part off (about 1 ft) earlier in the spring and just now decided to check the roots. It did produce a lot of leaves and appears to be in just ok health, but is not thriving by any means. Is this tree salvageable? Any suggestions?
- Thanks for reaching out to the master gardeners for help with your tree. I've sent your photo to a handful of other master gardeners in our group so that we can have a few opinions to share with you. Overall, we do not see serious concern for girdling in the photo that you sent. If you are seeing girdling that we can not see (maybe on the other side of the tree) you could always cut those roots away taking care to not cut into the stem/trunk of the tree. Your heavy pruning of the tree earlier this year could certainly be a cause of the abnormal growth you saw this year. From your photo, it does appear that your tree may have been planted too deep. You could pull a lot of the soil back from the tree in order to create a more shallow planting and see if this helps to improve the health of your plant. If ultimately the tree does not survive and you are looking to replace it, we would recommend going with a straight species like Cercis canadensis (Eastern Redbud)
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Blueberries and Lavender
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:37 pm
- Hello, I have 3 questions - I have blueberry bushes that were not properly tended to over the summer heat. They produced lovely berries but since have grown scraggly and I need to trim them back. Is there a proper time and way to do this? I have attempted several times to take cuttings and start new plants. Failed every time. Any suggestions? I have lavender plants in front of the blueberry bushes. They are half alive and half dead. Do I need to move them? I am thinking it is from the overgrowth of limbs from the blueberry bushes but not certain. I am presently in the tedious process of soaking the ground in the evenings and pulling the grass and weeds that surround them. I appreciate your help.
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! You have several great questions that we will do our best to give you some guidance on: 1. When to prune blueberry bushes: The best time to prune blueberries is in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing helps the bush recover and grow new shoots for the coming season. You could also have done some light pruning after harvesting, particularly if you noticed any dead or diseased branches. Regular, light pruning is usually better than infrequent, heavy pruning. Always make clean cuts and avoid leaving stubs, as these can become entry points for pests or diseases. 2. How to prune blueberry bushes: Start by cutting out any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. This helps improve air circulation and reduces the risk of pests and diseases. If the bush is very dense, selectively remove some of the older, thicker branches from the center of the plant to improve airflow and light penetration. This encourages better fruit development. Blueberry bushes produce the most fruit on new growth. Cut back older branches that are more than 6 years old to promote the growth of new, fruitful shoots. Aim for a well-rounded shape, which helps the bush maintain balance and supports better fruit production. Trim to keep the bush to a manageable size and shape, typically removing no more than a third of the plant's height in one season. During the growing season, you can also trim any overly vigorous shoots that might be crowding the plant, encouraging a more balanced structure. 3. Using cuttings to start new plants: The best time to take blueberry cuttings is from late summer to early fall when the wood is semi-hard but not yet fully mature. Choose cuttings from healthy, vigorous plants. Look for shoots that are not too old or too young. Ideally, the cuttings should be from the current season's growth and about 4-6 inches long. If possible, select shoots that haven't flowered, as they will have more energy to put into growing roots. - Preparing Cuttings: Make a clean cut just below a node (the point where leaves attach to the stem). This is where the roots are most likely to develop. Strip off the lower leaves, leaving a few at the top. This reduces moisture loss and encourages root growth. Although optional, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone can improve the chances of successful rooting. Rooting hormone is available in powder, gel, or liquid form. -Planting: Use a well-draining rooting medium like a mix of peat moss and perlite or sand. You can also use a commercial rooting mix. Insert the cuttings into the rooting medium about 1-2 inches deep. Firm the soil around them to ensure good contact. -Care: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water the cuttings gently to avoid displacing them. Cover the cuttings with a plastic bag or place them in a greenhouse or a propagation chamber to maintain high humidity. Ensure the cover does not touch the cuttings to avoid mold. Place the cuttings in a location with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can be too intense for young cuttings. -Transplanting: After about 8-12 weeks, check for root development by gently tugging on the cuttings. If you feel resistance, roots have formed. Rooting can take time, so be patient and avoid disturbing the cuttings too soon. Once roots are established, transplant the cuttings into small pots with a potting mix suitable for blueberries or a mix of peat and perlite. Gradually acclimate the young plants to outdoor conditions by exposing them to more light and outdoor temperatures over a couple of weeks. 4. Caring for lavender plants: Lavender plants can be a bit finicky, but several common issues could be causing them to struggle or die. Here are a few things to think about: Lavender needs well-draining soil. Heavy, clayey, or waterlogged soils can lead to root rot. Consider improving drainage by adding sand or gravel to the soil, or planting in raised beds or containers with good drainage. Lavender prefers slightly alkaline to neutral soil, ideally with a pH between 6.7 and 7.3. You can test your soil’s pH with a kit and amend it if necessary. Lavender is drought-tolerant and doesn’t like to sit in wet soil. Water sparingly and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause root rot and other issues. While lavender prefers less frequent watering, it still needs some moisture, especially in hot, dry conditions. Ensure it gets enough water during prolonged dry spells. Lavender requires full sun to thrive, which means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If it’s not getting enough light, it can become leggy and weak. Lavender generally prefers temperate climates. Extreme cold or heat can stress the plant Lavender doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer. Fungal diseases like root rot, powdery mildew, and rust can affect lavender. Ensure proper spacing for air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce disease risk. Lavender benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape and health. Prune after flowering to remove spent blooms and encourage new growth. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems, as they may not regenerate. Blueberries and lavender can be successfully planted together, but there are a few things to think about to ensure both plants thrive. Both blueberries and lavender prefer acidic to neutral soil. Blueberries thrive in a pH of 4.5 to 5.5, while lavender prefers a pH of around 6.7 to 7.3. This difference in pH requirements means you’ll need to find a balance or be prepared to amend the soil appropriately. Both plants need full sun to grow well. Ensure they receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Both plants require well-draining soil. Blueberries are prone to root rot in poorly drained soils, and lavender, though drought-tolerant, also dislikes wet feet. Blueberries need consistent moisture, especially during the growing season, whereas lavender prefers drier conditions and is more tolerant of drought. Overwatering can lead to issues for both plants, so careful watering practices are necessary. We hope this will give you some guidance for moving forward. Happy gardening!