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Browning Dwarf Arborvitae
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Date Posted: Wed, Oct 11 - 12:47 am
- Dwarf Arborvitae has brown sections, on am effort to cut them out, it appears black underneath. What is happening? Thank you.
- I'm sorry you are having these concerns with your Dwarf Arborvitae. The first thing that comes to my mind is canker. Canker is infected wounds in the branches caused by fungi. Wounds can be caused by pruning, storm damage, cold damage, or excessive wetness. In plants with canker, you will observe yellow to reddish-brown branches in the middle of healthy green branches. Closer to base of the branch you may see slightly sunken, reddish cankers with profusely exuding resin. Black pustule-like fruiting bodies known as pycnidia may be seen breaking through the bark. There is no real treatment for canker stem diseases. The fungus survives in infected bark tissues, so it is best to prune all infected branches about 3-4 inches below the canker area. Spread of the fungus can be minimized by sterilizing any blades used between all cuts with a 10 percent bleach or 70 percent alcohol solution. Try to prevent damage to trees. Stressed and wounded plants are more likely to be infested. It is best to keep dwarf trees as open as possible so that they will dry out after rain. Prune to allow air flow in plants. Clean out leaves from the insides of shrubs. Do not bury plants too deep in mulch. Prune out infected branches and fertilize affected trees if needed. Good luck!!
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Philodendon with Root Rot
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Date Posted: Thu, Jun 15 - 11:35 am
- Hello, I have a Philodendron Deja Vu. It has shed all but one remaining leaf, which appears to be getting too dry. It has three root sections (not sure the proper word) the other too appear to have some root rot. Is it possible to repot the section with the one remaining leaf? Is there anything else I can do to help it survive and thrive again or is it a goner?
- Hello, I'm sorry to hear your philodendron is struggling. Based off of what you have said, I'm concerned the plant may be getting over watered leading to leaf spot and/or root rot. Leaf spot is common with philodendrons and starts with leaves turning yellow and then eventually brown. Typically, it is due to damp and soggy soil from over watering that allows bacteria and fungus to thrive. To treat this, stop watering the plant and apply two spoons of baking soda mixed with soap water on the affected parts and keep the plant out of direct sunlight. Soggy soil can also lead to root rot. The best way to treat root rot is to change the soil immediately and be sure to use a well draining soil mix (similar to what you would use for a cactus). Let the soil dry out some in between waterings, using the finger knuckle test to determine if the plant needs water or not. Most of our local plant nursery's also have extremely helpful staff members that will look at your plant if you bring it in and make more specific suggestions, or even repot it for you. Good luck!
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English Ivy
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Date Posted: Sun, Jun 05 - 1:10 am
- Hi, I have a question about some plants in my backyard. I think I have some kind of ground ivy, and it has something wrong with it. I'm not sure if it's fungus or insect activity. The leaves have small “bubbles" where the leaves material has ballooned in places. Each bubble is the size of a pea. On the underside of the leaves, inside the bubbles, there are clusters of little white specks. I have pictures, but I'm unable to post them here. What is causing this? Do I need to do anything about it? Will it spread to other plants? Thanks!
- Hello there, I am making an assumption that you are referring to English ivy. I haven't seen the problem you're describing myself but I found some information on the Virginia Tech website. Again, I based my search for information on the subject being English ivy. If you think it's something else you can try searching for it on this website. There are photos you can refer to when you get the search results. Here is the website address--https://apps.cals.vt.edu/ppig/ --Select Woody Ornamentals for Plant Type and English ivy for Plant Common Name. It should return 2 entries. One will be for Bacterial Leaf Spot and the other will be Anthracnose-a fungus. I hope this helps! Let us know if you have further questions.
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Sod died-alternative
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 2:07 pm
- We have a very small 200sf area in the front of the house that was previously sod. That grass has died this summer (we think from a fungus) and we are thinking about doing something lower maintenance like a moss. Any recommendations or thoughts on that? The yard is am sun, north east facing, good drainage. Thanks!
- Hello there! Since your sod failed it would be worthwhile to have your soil tested. You can request a soil testing kit from the local extension office-the phone number for Richmond City is (804) 786-4150. You can check this link for the process: https://www.soiltest.vt.edu/sampling-insttructions.html. Also ask about the whether the demise of your sod was most likely due to incorrect ph or a fungus. Once you've established your soil's ph (whether it's an alkaline or acidic soil) you'll be able to make informed decisions about what plants to use. If you want to use moss, you'll need soil on the acidic side-5.5. I've included a link about mosses in lawns and how to grow a moss garden. Skip to the section entitled "Moss Gardens" for pertinent information. Here's the link: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/430/430-536/430-536.html You'll have to judge how much sun your space receives and whether or not that might be too much for mosses. In lieu of mosses, there are many alternative ground covers. I mentioned a number of them in the post Dog proof ground covers. Often a combination of them can be very pleasing and generally low maintenance. The addition of shrubs with some good mulch can also add interest with minimal upkeep. Enjoy the project!
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Yellow Spots on Rhododendron Leaves
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 2:01 pm
- My large rhododendrons have some yellow specked leaves. Been watering every other day. What are you suggestions
- Hello! Thanks for your question. Given our recent warm and humid weather conditions, the problem you are having with your rhododendron is certainly not uncommon. I suspect your plant has a fungal condition called leaf septoria (yellow leaf spot). It sounds as though the condition on your plants is not widespread at this point and there are a few steps you should take to rid your plants of this fungus. First, remove the affected leaves to get rid of as many fungal spores as possible. Secondly, take away any fallen leaves from under the plant and keep the area clean. Discard all removed leaves in the trash (not compost). Mulch the area under your rhododendrons; this helps prevent spores from spreading. It will also help retain/absorb the water when you are watering the plants, and reduce splash upwards. And when you water, it’s best to use a soaker hose at the base of your plants, versus overhead watering. Watering overhead and watering in the evening can increase fungal disease development on these plants. You can also apply a simple, all natural spray solution consisting of the following: one quart of water in spray bottle with 1 teaspoon of baking soda; add 1/2 teaspoon of canola oil and a few drops of dish soap; shake the solution well and spray on the plants. Good luck with this - improved weather conditions in the coming weeks hopefully will help as well! Let us know if you have further questions. Thanks! And of course keep a close eye on your other grow bags with your other vegetables for any similar signs. Good luck with your garden, and wishing you a strong yield!
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Yellowing Aster
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 1:46 pm
- Hi we have a row of fall aster and notice that this year and last as the rest of the plant grows large and bushy the base starts to get yellow and then dries. the plant seems to be getting enough water. Is this normal?
- Good morning, and thank you for your question! My first thought is that you may have a watering issue. I’m assuming your aster plants otherwise have normal growth, are not stunted, and bloom well. Asters do prefer well-draining soil and like to keep well watered. However, they do not like overhead watering or sprinkling. Doing so can result in development of a fungal disease. Watering should be done at the base of the plant where fungus would first develop. It also helps to use a good organic mulch around your aster plants to help retain moisture and prevent splash to the lower leaves which can cause the yellowing. As a side note, be on the lookout for leafhoppers on your aster. They can spread bacterial disease (phytoplasma), which is a more serious problem to deal with, but with this you would likely notice other symptoms such as stunted growth and deformed flowers as well. If those symptoms develop, the plants would need to be removed as there is no cure. It does not sound like you are experiencing these specific problems with your aster, and proper watering and mulching would be the best first steps to implement. Good luck with this, and let us know if further symptoms develop.
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Shasta Daisy-browning, die back
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:52 pm
- I have a large shasta daisy that I planted along my side yard years ago. About 3 years ago it started having "issues". It starts the spring with very green and abundant stems/leaves. And everything seems wonderful as the plant starts to bud....but then the flowers bloom already browning and die quickly. I am guessing it has some kind of wilt but not sure what to do. I also have dianthus in pots up my steps for the first time and it appeared that they also caught "the wilt" but they seem to be bouncing back. Not so for my Shasta daisies. Is there anything I can spray them with or can I transplant? It's such a gorgeous prolific plant.
- Sorry to hear of your daisy troubles. I'm going to refer to a previous answer I gave about Rudbeckia 'Goldsturm'. The daisies are also one of the stalwarts of the garden but can run into various problems. Please see the rudbeckia answer below. I didn't spell it out in the answer below but good drainage and air circulation are essential for plant growth and prevention of fungal diseases. And again, if your plants continue to succumb, selection of a new plant for your particular environment may be a good solution. Good luck, let us know your progress! "Rudbeckias are usually pretty sturdy plants but they do succumb to some fungal issues. Sometimes the problem could be attributed to too much water, so that's a simple fix. Or, you may be dealing with septoria leaf spot or a similar fungus. Rain and humidity contribute to the problem. You can start with some cultural practices. Remove all affected leaves and put them in the trash. The fungus overwinters in infected plant debris so you want to clean up the area around the plants to make them less inviting to the fungus. You may also try moving the plants to a spot with new soil and seeing if the plants improve over time. Additionally, do not water from overhead. Try a soaker hose so that the foliage does not get wet. You could also try a baking soda solution spray but that's usually better at prevention. A neem oil solution may be effective. You may decide to simply remove them from the garden and substitute another perennial that's less susceptible. There are many choices. A lot of gardening is just adapting to your circumstances and trying new plants that may be better suited to your patch of ground. Best of luck with your garden! "
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Rudbeckia-leaves blackened
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:51 pm
- I’m having a problem with my Rudbeckia Goldstrum. The leaves are blackening and the plants dry out and die. I took pictures but can’t figure out how to attach them to this message. So far the problem is only with the Rudbeckia.
- Hello there, Rudbeckias are usually pretty sturdy plants but they do succumb to some fungal issues. Sometimes the problem could be attributed to too much water, so that's a simple fix. Or, you may be dealing with septoria leaf spot or a similar fungus. Rain and humidity contribute to the problem. You can start with some cultural practices. Remove all affected leaves and put them in the trash. The fungus overwinters in infected plant debris so you want to clean up the area around the plants to make them less inviting to the fungus. You may also try moving the plants to a spot with new soil and seeing if the plants improve over time. Additionally, do not water from overhead. Try a soaker hose so that the foliage does not get wet. You could also try a baking soda solution spray but that's usually better at prevention. A neem oil solution may be effective. You may decide to simply remove them from the garden and substitute another perennial that's less susceptible. There are many choices. A lot of gardening is just adapting to your circumstances and trying new plants that may be better suited to your patch of ground. Best of luck with your garden!
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Mint-powdery mildew
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:48 pm
- I am growing organic mint in a pot. Noticed that there is powdery white stuff on the leaves. What is that and how can I treat it naturally? Is it safe to eat / use the mint leaves if it has this white powdery stuff on it? Thanks Vilma
- The powdery white stuff you see sounds like the fungus powdery mildew. This is a very common problem with many plants but it is not difficult to correct in this type of situation. If you can, first, isolate the plant and remove affected leaves. There are many solutions. I'll list 3 here and you can see which one suits you and try another if the first choice doesn't do the trick. 1.Try using this combination-1 gallon water, 1/2 teaspoon non-detergent soap, 1 tablespoon baking soda. Pour this solution into a clean spray bottle and liberally apply this to the plant. The soap will help the diluted baking soap stick to the mint leaves and stems. It's best to water the plant well before using the solution and don't apply while the plant is in hot sun, early morning is best. You can repeat this every 7 days and after a rain. Some people feel this works best as a preventative rather than a control. So if you find that you're having the same issue with powdery mildew year after year, apply this solution at the beginning of the season. 2. Another solution is a mixture of 3 tbsp. of neem oil to one gallon of water, sprayed onto affected plants every 7-14 days. Again, don't spray while the plant is in hot sun to avoid burning. 3. And yet another possibility is using milk. I have never tried this but I understand you can get some good results. Try a mixture of 4 parts milk to six parts water and spray bi-weekly. Apply in early morning. In all cases, try any solution on a test leaf first to see how the plant responds. And no, I wouldn't eat the leaves that are covered in powdery mildew but once the plant shows no signs of the fungus, feel free to use the plant in whatever dish you like. Good luck and let us know which solution was successful for you.