Master Gardener – Answers
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Home Consults
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Date Posted: Fri, Apr 24 - 11:57 am
- Hi! I have a friend in Williamsburg who has been helped by the Williamsburg Master Gardeners Landscape Love committee. Just wondering if anything like that exists with your group on Richmond. I need some guidance in person for a small yard. Thanks, Anne. (804)908-4742
- Hello and thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! We do offer home consults as our volunteers have the capacity to do so. If you are interested in connecting with us about this possibility, please email us at rvamastergardeners@gmail.com and answer the following questions: 1. What neighborhood do you live? You are welcome to share your address if you are comfortable doing so. We ask about this because we will try to connect you with a Master Gardener that lives nearby. 2. What is your current gardening knowledge and/or experience? 3. What is your goal for your yard? Once we have this information, we will send a request out to our team to see if anyone has the availability to connect with you. We are a small group of Master Gardeners and we enjoy working with neighbors in the city who are eager to learn more about gardening at home. I'm hopeful we'll be able to make a connection for you!
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Garden Season Kick off
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Date Posted: Fri, Apr 24 - 11:50 am
- We have an informal gardening group at work that volunteers to take care of planters around the state office building in Richmond where we work. We are holding a gardening season kickoff in May and wanted to know if there is a master gardener who can come talk about growing vegetables and flowers in what are essentially raised bed planters or talk about gardening in raised beds in general? Thanks.
- Hi and thank you so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! We enjoy opportunities like this to help small groups get inspired and excited about gardening! I will send you a follow up e-mail to get a few more details from you, and then I can reach out to our group to see if we have a volunteer available to help! Will be in touch!
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Options for climbing roses
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Date Posted: Fri, Apr 24 - 11:47 am
- Hi there, my husband and I are hoping to plant climbing roses in front of our home and would love advice on what an appropriate trellis or other support might look like. We have vinyl siding that runs vertically (see picture, left side) and are somewhat stumped on a solution.
- Thanks so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! Climbing roses can be a beautiful addition to a home, and you’ve got several good options to consider with your vinyl siding. There are a few approaches you could take depending on the look you’re going for and how much you want to attach to the house. One option is to install a freestanding trellis or arbor positioned a few inches out from the wall. This gives the roses a sturdy structure to climb while keeping everything independent from the siding which is often the simplest and lowest-risk choice. If you’d prefer a more integrated look, you can attach a trellis directly to the wall and train the rose onto it. With vinyl siding, you’ll want to be thoughtful about how it’s mounted to avoid damage and make sure you are using proper anchors into studs (rather than just the siding) is key. Another creative option is to use vinyl siding clips or outdoor-rated command hooks paired with wire or heavy-duty twine to create a grid system for the rose to climb. This can work well if you’d rather not drill into the siding. If you go this route, plan to run the wires across the full width you want the rose to fill from the start, and be sure to choose clips or hooks that are rated to handle the mature weight of a fully grown climbing rose, which can be substantial. No matter which method you choose, keep in mind that climbing roses don’t naturally cling on their own and they’ll need to be gently tied and trained as they grow. Soft plant ties or garden twine work well for this. Best of luck with this project! It will be beautiful as it fills in.
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Odor from lawn
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Date Posted: Thu, Apr 16 - 10:50 am
- Hi, we live in a townhouse in the fan that has a small backyard. This year and last we have noticed a pungent (almost skunky) scent that has started around mid-March and is gone in the winter. We think the cause is one of the plants/weeds that make up our “lawn” because the timing is just around when we start to see green again. The scent transfers to our dog when she lays in the grass. Any idea what type of plant would have this kind of smell? Or if there is anything we could do about it? I’ve attached an image of a portion of our yard but have others if that would be helpful. Many thanks!
- Thanks so much for reaching out and for sharing the photo, that’s really helpful. Based on your description of the timing and smell, one common cause we often consider is wild garlic or wild onion (Allium species), which can produce a strong, sulfur-like or “skunky” odor when crushed. However, I’m not seeing clear signs of those plants in the image you provided (they typically have distinct upright, hollow, grass-like leaves). What I do see is a mix of very common early spring lawn weeds, such as chickweed and bittercress, growing in a thin, somewhat compacted lawn. While these plants don’t usually have a strong smell individually, when they grow densely together and are disturbed by foot traffic, mowing, or a dog laying in the grass, especially when there’s some moisture present, they can release a musty, sulfur-like odor that can come across as “skunky” and can easily transfer to your dog’s coat. One other (less common) contributing factor could be compacted or poorly drained soil creating brief anaerobic conditions, which can also produce a sulfur-like smell; this is more typical in areas that stay damp, but it could be playing a small role depending on drainage. Over time, improving lawn density (particularly with fall overseeding) and reducing compaction can help crowd out these weeds and minimize the issue. In the short term, hand-pulling where feasible and giving your dog a quick rinse or wipe-down after being outside can help manage the odor.
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Pruning Camillias
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Date Posted: Wed, Apr 08 - 11:33 pm
- Good morning. My Camellia trees that are very mature just finished blooming. I would like to do a hard cut back to about 2 feet tall to reshape. With them blooming so late in the season may I do that now? The trees are greater than 20 years old and very healthy. Their shape is just gotten off over the years.
- Thank you for reaching out to the master gardeners! You are actually in the perfect window to prune since your camellias have just finished blooming. Camellias, even mature ones like yours, are generally very tolerant of hard pruning, so cutting them back to around 2 feet (a rejuvenation prune) is acceptable, especially since they are healthy and well established. That said, you should expect to lose blooms for next season because you’ll be removing developing buds, and the plants may look a bit sparse or uneven at first as they push out new growth over the next one to two growing seasons. When pruning, try to make cuts just above a leaf node or lateral branch, and after pruning, support recovery with consistent watering and mulch rather than heavy fertilization right away. If you’d prefer a more gradual approach, you could also reduce the size over two years by removing a portion of the older wood each season. Overall, your camellias should respond well, it will just be a bit of a reset before they fill back in beautifully. This is a great general resource about pruning put out by the Virginia Extension office: https://www.cmgv.org/images/References/Pruning%20Calendar%202019.pdf
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VCU Garden Beds
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 30 - 2:36 pm
- I am trying to revive 8 garden beds in the courtyard of my campus dorm. The soil is currently dense w/ roots from the nearby mature trees, which have basically invaded the beds! I am unsure what we should do with the roots :( Do we cut them? Additionally, there is a little sapling that is groing magestically in the center of one of the beds.... I do not want to kill it, as it proves itself to be resilient. I am unsure what kind of tree it is, but I assume it grew form one of the seeds of the trees above. How can I excave and transport the sapling to someone/somewhere it can thrive? I do not have photos on this device, but I would love to share pictures in an email thread once you get back to me :) With much thanks in advance, Emma Toggia
- Thanks so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. What a wonderful project for your campus space! It sounds like you’re already putting a lot of care into bringing those beds back to life! What you’re seeing with the roots is very common when garden beds are located near mature trees. Those trees naturally extend their root systems into nearby soil to access water and nutrients. Regarding the roots, you can cut smaller invading roots (pencil-size or smaller) when preparing the beds but you should avoid cutting large structural roots, as this can stress or damage the tree. And unfortunately, even with cutting, roots will likely return over time, so it may help to add a layer of fresh compost and topsoil to improve growing conditions. When deciding what to plant here, we'd recommend choosing shade-tolerant, root-competitive plants like ferns and hellebores About the sapling: It’s great that you’d like to preserve it! You can attempt to transplant it, especially if it’s still relatively young. The best time to transplant is early spring or fall, but you can try now if you’re careful and keep it well-watered afterward. Dig a wide circle around the sapling to capture as much of the root system as possible (roots are often wider than you expect) Gently lift it, keeping as much soil around the roots as you can. There are some trees that have a very long tap root that can be nearly impossible to get out once they reach even a small size. If you find this to be the case with this tree, it may not be possible to save the tree and move it. However, if you are able to get the root ball out of the ground relatively intact, replant it promptly in a new location (or container), water deeply, and keep it consistently moist while it establishes. Do keep in mind that volunteer saplings often come from nearby trees and may grow quite large—so choosing an appropriate long-term location is important. If you have additional questions or want to share photos, you can reach us at rvamastergardeners@gmail.com. Best of luck with your garden beds, this sounds like such a meaningful project for your community!
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Tulips
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 30 - 2:28 pm
- I know tulips are difficult but what kinds are most likely to be perennial in Richmond? I read species, emperor and Darwin? Is that right? What about Darwin hybrid? Tks!
- Thanks so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! There are so many beautiful tulips in bloom around the city right now. I can definitely relate to wanting to plant some of your own! You’re on the right track with your research. In general, species tulips are the most likely to behave as perennials in our Richmond climate. Among hybrids, Fosteriana (Emperor) tulips and Darwin Hybrid tulips tend to perform best, although Darwin hybrids typically return for a few years rather than long-term. Usually, bulb packaging will list the tulip type and blooming details, which can be helpful when selecting varieties. Also keep in mind that water and soil needs may vary depending on whether you’re planting in the ground or in containers (containers tend to dry out more quickly). For best results, be sure to deadhead spent blooms so the plant doesn’t put energy into seed production, and allow the foliage to yellow and die back naturally so the bulbs can store energy for future blooms.
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VCU Gardening Project
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Date Posted: Fri, Mar 13 - 8:05 pm
- VCU Child Development Center is building raised beds for a new gardening project. We are planning to focus our curriculum around gardening throughout May. Is there a master gardener who could assist us by advising our Gardening Committee, or educating our students and teachers?
- Hello! Thank you so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. I will put this request out to our unit to see who may be available to connect and will follow up via email.
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Home Consult
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Date Posted: Thu, Mar 12 - 11:19 am
- I do not know where to start to grow a natural habitat/garden on my side yard. The space is about 4ft by 30ft. The strip is bordered by the driveway on one side and holly bushes on the other side. The area gets afternoon sun. We have unsuccessfully tried growing grass. then, we had the area prepared by a landscaper who cleared the plot and added a few ferns and flox. While it looked great initially, the plot was taken over by some kind of grass/weed that it impossible to get rid of. I have decided to make this a space with natural plantings. I see lots of resources online to refer to, but don't know where to start. Can you help? I live in Henrico County VA.
- Thank you so much for reaching out to the Master Gardeners! Master Gardener units are often able to help with home consults. Because this is the Richmond unit of Master Gardeners, are efforts are focused within the city limits. There is a very active unit of Master Gardeners in Henrico County that should be able to help you. You can find more information about them and their home consultations here: https://www.henricomg.org/homeowner-consultations/ Best of luck to you!!
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Pruning Rosemary
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Date Posted: Tue, Mar 03 - 11:11 am
- I moved into a house with an overgrown Rosemary bush. I love it but I think it needs some help. How would you prune it without killing it. I'm afraid if I trim it too far back it might die. I have no idea how old it is.
- Thank you for your question — what a gift to inherit a mature rosemary plant! Established rosemary can live for many years, but it does tend to become woody and overgrown over time. The most important thing to know is that rosemary does not reliably regrow from old, bare wood. If you cut back into thick, leafless stems, those sections often will not resprout. For that reason, pruning should be done conservatively and gradually. The best time to prune rosemary in Virginia is in early spring after the risk of hard frost has passed, or lightly after it finishes flowering. Begin by removing any clearly dead wood — you can gently scratch the bark with your fingernail to check for green tissue underneath, which indicates the stem is still alive. When shaping the plant, avoid cutting back into bare woody stems. Instead, always leave at least an inch or two of green growth on the stem. It’s safest to remove no more than about one-third of the plant at a time, especially if it is quite overgrown. If significant reduction is needed, spreading the pruning out over one or two growing seasons will reduce stress on the plant. When making cuts, trim just above a set of green leaves to encourage branching and fuller growth. If most of the plant consists of woody stems with growth only at the tips, you may be limited to light shaping rather than a dramatic cutback. In that case, you might consider taking a few soft cuttings in spring to start a new plant as a backup. Good luck! I love having fresh rosemary to pick from in the backyard! I hope you will be able to enjoy this plant for many years to come.