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Declining Rose Bushes
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 20 - 12:18 am
- We have a row of drift roses out from for the last 8 years, last year once bush died totally after pruning and was replaced but two others appear to have dying branches in places but are blooming in others. Do you have any recommendations? They previously were huge and bloomed all summer.
- Thank you for reaching out about your drift roses. After 8 years, itâs not uncommon to see some decline in vigor, and the symptoms youâre describing (a bush dying after pruning, and others showing partial dieback while still blooming) may have several contributing factors. Possible Causes Age & Natural Decline: Drift roses, while hardy, often start to lose vigor after 7â10 years. Decline in individual plants can be expected over time. Pruning Stress: If roses are pruned too severely or at the wrong time (late fall/early winter), it can stress the plant and increase vulnerability to dieback. Canker or Dieback Disease: Fungal cankers can cause branches to brown and die back while other parts of the shrub continue to bloom. Look for discolored, sunken, or shriveled stems. Root Stress: After many years in the same spot, soil compaction, poor drainage, or root competition from nearby shrubs can weaken roses. Environmental Stress: Last winterâs cold snaps, summer drought, or inconsistent watering can also contribute. Recommendations Inspect the Canes: Cut into affected stems. If the wood inside is brown rather than green/white, prune those branches back to healthy tissue. Sterilize pruners between cuts (70% alcohol or 10% bleach solution). Monitor for Pests/Disease: Check for signs of fungal cankers, crown gall, or borers. Mulch & Soil Health: Refresh mulch to 2â3 inches (but keep away from the crown). Consider lightly amending with compost to improve soil structure and nutrients. Watering Practices: Provide consistent deep watering during dry spells, especially since stressed plants are more susceptible to disease. Rejuvenation Option: If more bushes continue declining, you may want to replace them gradually. Consider rotating in disease-resistant shrub roses or other flowering shrubs to diversify and reduce the chance of future loss. Since one plant has already died and others are showing decline, you may be at the natural replacement stage for part of the row. Healthy roses can last many years, but staggered replacement every few years can keep the planting full and vibrant.
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Why is my swamp milkweed dying?
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Date Posted: Thu, Aug 14 - 11:54 pm
- I have an established butterfly bush and swamp milkweed plant in my yard. Theyâre both around 3ft tall. This year, both plants began dying fast. We havenât dumped anything there, nothing changed as far as plants, soil, drainage, etc. with one exception. Three years ago we planted some Blue Mistflower. It never came up until this year. It is climbing the dead butterfly bush. Iâve read Blue Mistflower spreads via rhizomes and that this could potentially be the cause. Any thoughts? Other things I should check? Thanks!
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! I've connected with one of our gardeners, Pam, that has a wealth of knowledge on native plants to help give you some guidance. There has been a lot of chatter in the Virginia Native Plant Society Facebook group that this has been a banner year for milkweed aphids. Swamp milkweed seems particularly susceptible to this aphid, and you truly have âaâ plant (singular), it becomes the sole target for the aphids. The aphids submit a dew that causes a fungus. Unfortunately, the picture doesnât show the milkweed clearly enough for this to be more than a guess, but we think itâs a reasonable possibility. We wouldnât blame the blue mist flower. Yes, itâs hardy and loves to spread, but itâs a valuable late-season food source for pollinators. We recommend planting a different companion for it. You did not mention you soil or light conditions, but the Plant RVA Natives guide (download free at vnps.org) will help identify companion plants that can hold their own with an enthusiastic spreader. Pycnanthemum muticum, clustered mountain mint, might be a possibility, and it blooms much earlier, spreading the glory. Since butterfly bush is designated invasive in Virginia, we canât ethically recommend trying to save it or replacing it with another. But its loss provides an opportunity to plant more natives. If you have additional questions about natives, Pam will be at the West End Branch of the Richmond Public Library on Wednesday afternoons after Labor Day. You are welcome to stop in and chat with her more!
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Transplanting a peach tree
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Date Posted: Thu, Aug 14 - 5:34 pm
- I need to transplant this peach tree but know next to nothing about when/how/where. Would love advice!
- Thank you for reaching out! Peach trees can grow successfully in the Richmond area when given the right conditions and care. Since your tree is currently in a pot, here are some steps and tips to guide you through transplanting it into the ground: Best Time to Transplant Late fall to early spring (after leaf drop but before buds swell) is ideal. In Richmond, thatâs typically November through March when the tree is dormant. This reduces stress and gives roots time to establish before summer heat. Choosing a Planting Site: Sunlight: Choose a location with full sun â at least 6â8 hours daily. Soil: Well-drained, loamy soil with a pH of 6.0â6.5 is best. Avoid low areas where water collects. Soil test kits can be found at local Richmond Public Libraries Air Circulation: Good airflow helps reduce fungal diseases. How to Transplant: Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Loosen the surrounding soil to encourage root spread. Gently slide the tree out of the pot, loosening any tightly wound roots. Trim circling roots to prevent girdling. Place the tree so the root flare (where roots meet trunk) is level with or slightly above ground level. Fill with native soil (you can mix in some compost if soil quality is poor). Water deeply to remove air pockets. Apply 2â4 inches of mulch around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. This helps conserve moisture and regulate temperature. After planting: Water deeply once a week during the first growing season, more often in hot/dry spells. Lightly prune in late winter to shape and remove damaged branches. Young peach trees can be susceptible to deer, rabbits, and voles, so consider fencing or trunk guards. Good luck with your peach tree!! We wish you lots of success! Thanks again for reaching out.
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Garden Support at The Doorways
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 06 - 2:48 pm
- I am the Volunteer and Outreach Manager for The Doorways, a nonprofit in Richmond that provides lodging for patients and their family members while they receive medical care nearby. We have a lovely garden area that needs some pruning/mulching and new plants for fall. I'm wondering how to connect with volunteer Master Gardner's to see if there's interest. Thank you!
- Thank you so much for reaching out â The Doorways provides such an important service to the Richmond community, and your garden sounds like a lovely and meaningful space for your guests. As Master Gardeners, our primary mission is education. Our volunteer efforts are focused on teaching and sharing best practices related to horticulture and sustainable gardening. While we arenât a labor-based group, weâd be happy to support your efforts in an educational capacity. If you're interested in learning more about what types of plants could thrive in your garden or how to plan for fall planting, we can connect with our volunteers to see if we have someone available for a consultation. For hands-on help with pruning, mulching, or planting, we would recommend reaching out to a local garden club or professional landscaping service who may be better equipped for that type of volunteer or contracted work. Please e-mail us if you are interested in a planting consultation: rvamastergardeners@gmail.com
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Serviceberry TLC
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 31 - 10:56 pm
- My service berry tree has split bark in several places and there may be insects in the bark. There are many yellow leaves. The tree doesnât look healthy. I planted it in the fall. Is there anything I can do to save it?
- Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your serviceberry tree is experiencing some stress, but weâll do our best to help you support its recovery. Yellowing leaves can indicate a few things: transplant shock, water stress, or even nutrient deficiency. This is common in newly planted trees as they adjust to their environment. Split bark can also be a sign of environmental stress like rapid temperature changes in winter (known as frost cracks or sunscald), mechanical injury (e.g., weed trimmers or animals), and overwatering or underwatering. Unfortunately, splits in the bark can make the tree more susceptible to insect or disease invasion. If you see insects, they may be opportunists rather than the primary cause. What You Can Do: Inspect the trunk: Look closely at any insects you find. If you can, take a clear photo to try to ID. Mulch properly: Place a 2â3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it a few inches away from the trunk) to regulate soil temperature and moisture. Water consistently: Deeply water once a week during dry periods. Avoid overwateringâserviceberries prefer moist but well-drained soil. Prune carefully: Remove any obviously dead or damaged branches, but avoid heavy pruning during stress periods. Avoid fertilizer for now: Wait until the tree is more stable before fertilizing. It may take some time for your serviceberry to bounce back, but with proper care and monitoring, it could still recover. We wish you the best! For more information, check out: https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/serviceberry/
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Amaryllis TLC
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 31 - 11:27 am
- I have a plant that I think is an Amaryllis (it belonged to my grandmother). It has never bloomed and the stems are very droopy. Do you have suggestions for how to care for it and encourage it to bloom? Or is it a different plant? Thank you!
- Thank you for your questionâand how special to have a plant that belonged to your grandmother! From your photo, it does appear to be an amaryllis, especially given the long, strap-like leaf. If it's never bloomed and the foliage is droopy, a few adjustments in care might help encourage healthier growth and eventually, blooms. Here are a few tips to support your amaryllis: Light: Amaryllis need bright, indirect sunlight to thrive. If it's indoors, try placing it near a sunny window. Without enough light, the leaves may become elongated and floppy. Watering: Water sparinglyâthe bulb doesnât like to stay soggy. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, and make sure the pot drains well. Potting: Make sure the bulb is planted in well-draining soil and that about one-third of the bulb remains above the soil line. A snug pot is bestâjust about 1 inch wider than the bulb. Bloom Encouragement: Amaryllis often need a dormancy period to bloom. In late summer or early fall, you can: Stop watering and allow the leaves to die back naturally. Move the pot to a cool, dark place (around 50â55°F) for 6â8 weeks. After the rest period, bring it back into the light, resume watering, and it should begin new growthâwith a bloom soon to follow! We hope these suggestions will help you enjoy a happy, blooming amaryllis for years to come!
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Speaker Request
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 24 - 7:23 pm
- Hello. My alumnae organization is looking for a speaker for a zoom or possibly in-person meeting Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 7:00. We were thinking the topic could be planting native species but are open to suggestions. Thanks in advance for your response.
- Hello! Thank you so much for thinking of the Richmond Master Gardeners for this opportunity. We always enjoy getting the chance to share information about planting native! I'll follow up with an email to you to get a little more information and see what we can coordinate.
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Planting Natives in Yard
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 22 - 10:05 am
- Hello! I moved into a new home in the past year and my yard is pretty much a blank slate. I love a flower-filled garden, but my yard is almost entirely shade due to an extraordinary, 100+ year old Tulip Poplar. Do you have any suggestions for flowers or colorful plants that would thrive in my shady yard? I am interested in keeping my yard native. Thank you!
- Hello Bethany! How exciting to have a yard that is a blank slate to fill with native plants! One resource I will share with you is https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives This guide gives you a wealth of information about native plants and landscaping. I'll also reach out to you via e-mail to see if we can connect with you more to provide more specific recommendations.
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Extension Turf Grass program
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Date Posted: Fri, Jul 18 - 1:26 am
- Status of turf program. Sent in $45.00 In may/ june with no confirmation so far.
- Hello! The Richmond Master Gardeners are not connected with a turf program. And I'm not personally familiar with the city of Richmond offering one, especially since the city has been without an extension agent for the last several years. I would be curious to know what address you sent it to. I was able to find that Henrico does offer a program, but that it is unfortunately suspended this year: https://henrico.ext.vt.edu/programs/anr/smartlawns.html I can try to help you find a resolution. Please email RVAmastergardeners@gmail.com with the address you used and any other information you have available and I will see if I can help you get some answers. Thank you!
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Preparing new garden beds for planting
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 15 - 10:50 pm
- I need to landscape front garden beds. whatâs best to place on top of area for two months. Are tarps weighed down w/bricks okay? Arborist chips clean? Iâm old so I want something easy/low maintenance. Planning on native perennials and grasses, a few shrubs/service berry.
- Thank you for your question! It sounds like you're off to a great start with a thoughtful plan for a low-maintenance, native landscape. Both of the options you suggested are great ideas for prepping your beds for planting. 1. Tarps: Yes, tarps weighed down with bricks or secured with lawn staples can work well to smother weeds and prevent new growth before planting. This method is known as "occultation." Itâs easy, effective, and doesn't require much labor. Just make sure the tarp is opaque and tightly secured to prevent wind from getting underneath. I have personally had success with using black plastic and lawn staples, and am able to re-use the black plastic when I'm ready to expand the garden. 2. Arborist Wood Chips: Fresh arborist chips are also a great option, especially for a native planting. They help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and gradually improve soil as they break down. Itâs fine to apply them now even if theyâre âgreenâ (fresh)âjust keep them 3â6 inches deep and avoid piling them right against any existing stems or trunks. You can combine both methods too: tarp the area now, then remove the tarp and add arborist chips once youâre ready to plant. Native perennials, grasses, and a few shrubs like serviceberry are perfect choices for a low-maintenance, pollinator-friendly garden. Once established, they should need minimal watering and upkeep. Happy gardening!