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Home Consult for Native Plants

    Date Posted: Tue, May 27 - 1:08 am

    Question

  • I’m slowly redoing our front and back yards with native plants and would love some planning advice, including as to trees. Thank you!!

    • Answer

  • Thank you so much for thinking of the Master Gardeners as you embark on the journey of redoing your yard with native plants! What an exciting venture that will have such a great impact! I will send you a follow up email to get a little more information from you in order to see if we have a volunteer available for a consultation. Please check your email to continue this conversation!

Home Consultations

    Date Posted: Thu, May 22 - 10:28 pm

    Question

  • Hello, I'd be interested in having someone come out and advise us on our garden at our house. Is that possible?

    • Answer

  • Hi Debbie! We do have some master gardeners who offer home consultations. In order to see if we can get you connected with one, we will need to get a little more information from you. I will send you a follow up e-mail to connect. Thanks!

Becoming a Master Gardener

    Date Posted: Wed, May 21 - 12:32 am

    Question

  • Hello, I would like to become a master gardener. How do I register for the program and classes?

    • Answer

  • We're so excited that you are interested in joining the Master Gardener Program. We anticipate applications for the next program opening September 1 of this year and the program running January - March 2026. Requirements for Master Gardener interns: Complete 20 educational hours and 50 volunteer hours Classes are typically on Tuesday mornings (virtually & recorded) and Thursday evenings (in person) You have the calendar year to complete your 50 volunteer hours A fee of $225 is required to participate and covers the cost of all educational materials Ongoing requirement for Master Gardeners: Complete 8 educational hours and 20 volunteer hours per year The Richmond Master Gardeners are a small, but fun unit! We have not had an extension agent since 2021 and operate mostly independently but have relationships with surrounding counties like Chesterfield and Henrico. We typically meet every other month on the first Monday of the month at 6pm at the West End Branch library and will often have speakers come to our meetings. Currently, our volunteer efforts are primarily focused at the Richmond Public Libraries and Richmond Public Schools. If you would like to be on the list to be notified when the application information is available, please send an email to rvamastergardeners@gmail.com. You an also send any questions that you have about the process. We hope to hear from you!

Becoming a Master Gardener

    Date Posted: Thu, May 15 - 8:53 pm

    Question

  • I'd like to sign up to take the Master Gardener classes. Can you tell me who to contact to get on the registration list? Thank you! Best, Marie

    • Answer

  • Hi Marie! We are very excited to hear about your interest in becoming a Master Gardener! I will follow up with an email so that we can get you on the list when application information is available.

Pruning a dwarf apricot tree

    Date Posted: Thu, May 08 - 11:20 pm

    Question

  • We have a dwarf apricot tree in our backyard near our privacy fence (designated by purple arrow in photo). Unfortunately, one of the medium size limbs at the top has stretched over our privacy fence into our neighbor’s yard. I want to but the limb but I’m nervous about damaging the tree since it’s spring time. Would it be okay to cut it at this time of year?

    • Answer

  • Thanks for your question about pruning your dwarf apricot tree. It’s totally understandable to want to manage the limb growing into your neighbor’s yard, and you’re right to think carefully about timing. While late winter or early spring (before bud break) is generally the best time to prune apricot trees, light or selective pruning—even now in late spring—is okay, especially if it’s necessary to maintain boundaries or reduce potential damage. Just keep a few tips in mind to minimize stress on the tree: -Use clean, sharp tools to make a clean cut just outside the branch collar (the slightly swollen area where the limb connects to the trunk or larger branch). -Avoid removing more than 10–15% of the tree’s total canopy during the growing season. -Try to prune on a dry day to reduce the risk of fungal infections entering the fresh cut. If you only need to remove one medium-sized limb, your apricot tree should tolerate it well—especially if it's otherwise healthy. Make sure to monitor the tree through the season for any signs of stress (like leaf drop or dieback) and water consistently during dry spells.

Rhododendron Questions

    Date Posted: Thu, May 08 - 11:14 pm

    Question

  • I have an established rhododendron and a couple of questions 1. Some leaves tern yellow and die and fall off 2. Others show yellowing but remain 3. New shoots form at the base but die never to mature 4 is there any way to encourage new growth on the old branches

    • Answer

  • Thanks for reaching out with your rhododendron questions! You’ve made some great observations, and your plant is definitely trying to tell you something. Here are a few possible explanations and tips based on what you described: Yellowing and Leaf Drop: Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal, especially for older inner leaves. However, widespread or early-season yellowing in Richmond can also point to stress from heat or underlying root issues, particularly since rhododendrons are naturally cool-climate, understory plants. Our warm springs and hot summers can make them more susceptible to systemic diseases or environmental stress. Persistent Yellow Leaves: This could be a sign of sun stress—rhododendrons prefer morning sun with dappled afternoon shade. Too much direct, hot afternoon sun can cause the kind of yellowing you're seeing. Poor drainage or soil that’s too alkaline can also cause nutrient uptake issues, leading to chlorosis (leaf yellowing). New Shoots Dying Back: When new shoots at the base fail to mature, it often points to root zone stress, such as poor drainage, fungal root diseases, or heat stress. Check that mulch isn't piled too high against the base and that the soil is staying moist but not soggy. Encouraging New Growth on Old Branches: Yes! Light pruning in early spring, just after flowering, can stimulate new growth. Avoid heavy pruning all at once; instead, gradually thin out leggy or unproductive branches over time. Make cuts just above a healthy bud or leaf whorl to encourage branching. Good luck with your rhododendron!

Crimson Queen Japanese Maple

    Date Posted: Mon, May 05 - 1:44 am

    Question

  • Hello, I recently purchased a Crimson Queen Japanese Maple (https://tinyurl.com/5hfc8k8p) and am considering planting it in my backyard, which gets a good balance of both sunlight and shade throughout the day. The location I'm considering is a minimum distance of 5' 8.5" from the patio retaining wall and a maximum distance of 8' 4" from the corner of the house where the foundation begins. I'm wondering if this distance is far enough away from the patio and the house. I've read quite a few different recommendations online, ranging between 3 and 10 feet, and it has me wondering if my distances are safe enough to prevent any damage to the patio and/or the house once the tree becomes more mature. I've attached a picture that shows the tree's distance from the patio and the house corner I mentioned earlier. If you could provide any other general info about tree planting specific to Japanese Maples, I'd really appreciate it, as this is the first one I've ever planted. Thanks for your help!

    • Answer

  • Thank you for your question about planting your Japanese Maple! And thank you for your patience while we connected with our team to get a good answer for you. In general, our master gardeners typically recommend planting any tree at least 12 feet away from the house. Japanese Maples tend to grow their most attractive, rounded shape when they receive balanced sunlight from all sides. If one side is shaded, the tree can develop unevenly over time, with less foliage and an asymmetrical form. One of our gardeners has a tree that this has happened to —it receives more sunlight on one side, so it has a slightly lopsided look compared to the beautiful full shape seen in the photo you shared. We hope this helps as you make decisions about where you will plant your tree and that you will enjoy it for many many years to come!

Chiggers

    Date Posted: Sat, May 03 - 11:49 am

    Question

  • I live in a lovely wooded area in Doswell. I am overwhelmed with chiggers. I keep the lawn cut but the property has many flower beds that are crowded with perennials that were lovingly planted by the original owners. I wear protective clothing and use bug spray when I go out but they still get me - and I react badly to the bites. I hate to use insecticide but it's that or a blowtorch :-0 Any advice?

    • Answer

  • Thank you for reaching out—and we definitely understand your frustration! Chiggers can make it tough to enjoy your beautiful landscape, especially in wooded or densely planted areas like yours in Doswell. We don't have a lot of issues with chiggers here in the city, so you may also consider reaching out to your local extension office for suggestions. Chiggers thrive in areas with dense vegetation, leaf litter, tall grasses, and shade—exactly the kinds of cozy habitats found in perennial flower beds and wooded edges. They’re most active in warm, humid months and often hang out in transition zones between lawn and woods or garden beds and open space. First and foremost, Since chiggers often crawl upward before biting, tucking pants into socks and applying repellent around ankles and waistbands is key. Products containing permethrin (for treating clothing, not skin) and DEET or picaridin (for skin) can be more effective than natural repellents if you're especially sensitive to bites. Also, try taking showers immediately after working in or near your flower beds to try to wash off chiggers before they have the opportunity to bite. Here are a few non-chemical approaches to cutting back your chiggers population: Targeted Cleanup 1. Trim back or divide overgrown perennials to increase airflow and sunlight penetration. 2. Remove excess mulch, leaves, or plant debris where chiggers hide and lay eggs. 3. Keep a buffer strip (about 3 feet wide) of closely mowed lawn or bare mulch between wooded or bedded areas and your walking paths to reduce exposure. Natural Deterrents 1. Diatomaceous earth is controversial but if it is something you are comfortable using over chemicals, it can be dusted lightly in problem areas—it's safe for people and pets but harms all soft-bodied insects and mites (including chiggers). 2. Cedarwood oil products (like Wondercide) may help repel mites and are more environmentally friendly than synthetic pesticides. Beneficial Wildlife 1. This on is always one of my favorites although can be slower to see results - Encourage birds, predatory insects, and spiders that naturally reduce mite populations. A birdbath or native plants that attract wrens and chickadees can be helpful. Good luck! This can be a frustrating situation and we hope you will be able to make some progress and continue to enjoy your beautiful flower beds!

Converting Lawn to natives

    Date Posted: Sat, Apr 26 - 9:39 pm

    Question

  • I saw in some other responses that the Master Gardener applications started last September and have since closed. Could I be added to the list to receive information when it becomes available again?! I was also curious if y'all had any suggestions for building a grass yard with native grasses and fewer 'weeds.' Would poverty grass be an option? I rent currently, but I don't want that to stop us from building a home that supports native biodiversity!! Thank you so much! :)

    • Answer

  • Thanks so much for reaching out—and big kudos to you for wanting to support native biodiversity, even as a renter. Creating a lawn or greenspace with native grasses is a fantastic way to help pollinators, improve soil health, and reduce maintenance and chemical inputs. You're right to consider poverty oatgrass (Danthonia spicata)—it’s a great native grass for our region! It’s clump-forming, drought-tolerant, and performs well in poor soils, which makes it an excellent choice for naturalized lawn areas. However, it doesn’t behave quite like traditional turf—it grows in tufts, so you may want to pair it with other species for fuller coverage. While none of these will act quite like turf grass, here are a couple of others you could consider: Virginia Wildrye (Elymus virginicus) – Grows well in part shade and moist soils. Tolerates mowing, though it’s bunch-forming. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Gorgeous color and structure, though not turf-like. Best for meadows and border plantings. I love mixing this one into flower beds for beautiful color pops! Purpletop (Tridens flavus) – Soft and airy with a lovely purple seed head; adds diversity and texture. River Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) – A beautiful grass for partly shaded areas, but it can spread aggressively. Personally, I love growing this grass in pots and listening to the oats rustle in the wind! (That being said, another great way to add more natives, especially as a renter is to grow them in pots!) This one will be much stalkier than normal turf grass. For a lawn substitute, you could also consider Carex species (native sedges), which resemble turf when mowed and tolerate partial shade: carex crinita and carex vulpinoidea are a couple that typically do well in our area. Hope this helps get you on the path you are looking to be on! And I'll send you an email to follow up about being on the list for information about our next class!

Apple Tree - Fire blight?

    Date Posted: Fri, Apr 25 - 12:57 am

    Question

  • I am hoping to diagnose if my apple tree has fire blight. I have uploaded one picture but have several more I am not able to upload. The tree is a multi variety grafted tree. I have cut below the suspected ends 4-8” with pruners sterilized with rubbing alcohol. Is it also possible to have a Master Gardener visit our garden at any point in the future this year?

    • Answer

  • Thanks so much for reaching out to us for help with your apple tree. I will send you a follow up email so that we can get the rest of your pictures as well as some information about where you live and what you are looking for from a home visit so that we can see what we can coordinate for you.