Master Gardener – Answers
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Home Consult
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Date Posted: Mon, Jul 14 - 12:43 am
- Hi there! I am a first time homeowner trying to get a handle on our front and backyard. The previous owner was an arborist and master of the craft and I am doing my best to keep the garden afloat but I think I need some guidance! I would so love if someone could come out to help advise. Is that possible?
- Hi Athena, Thank you so much for reaching out to the Master Gardeners. How wonderful to have an established garden come with your new home! I will send you an email to get more information about the neighborhood you are in and what is currently growing in your garden so that I connect you with a Master Gardener. Keep an eye out for an e-mail from us!
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Pruning Oakleaf Hydrangeas
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Date Posted: Fri, Jul 11 - 12:54 am
- I have an oakleaf hydrangea that has grown too large for its spot in my yard here in Richmond. When is the best time to cut it back and should I cut its branches close to the trunk? Can it be encouraged to grow more vertically and not spread out horizontally?
- Thank you for your question about your oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)! I frequently walk past the ones Maymont has in their parking lot at the nature center and am always admiring how beautiful they are but they can indeed outgrow their space over time. Timing: The best time to prune oakleaf hydrangeas is shortly after they finish blooming, typically in late June through early August here in Richmond. These shrubs bloom on old wood, meaning they form next year’s flower buds on stems grown the previous year. Pruning in late summer or fall will likely remove those buds and reduce flowering the following year. How to prune: Avoid cutting branches all the way back to the trunk. Instead, remove about 1/3 of the oldest, thickest stems at the base to encourage new growth and improve shape. You can also shorten some of the remaining stems to reduce overall size and guide the shape—just make cuts back to a bud or side branch. Encouraging vertical growth: Oakleaf hydrangeas naturally have a broad, spreading habit. While you can’t dramatically change this growth pattern, you can encourage a more upright form by thinning out wide-angled branches and encouraging vertical shoots, selectively removing outward-growing stems to reduce width, and/or using light staking or support for young vertical stems if needed (though this is more effective in younger plants). If the space is truly too small for the mature size of your shrub, long-term, you might consider relocating it in the fall or early spring when it’s dormant. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Indoor Bamboo
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Date Posted: Thu, Jul 10 - 12:16 am
- My bamboo leaves has brown tips. It is potted inside my home in dirt. It's not in direct sunlight and I water once every other week. I wonder if the tap water had too much fluoride. Please advise.
- Thank you for your question about your indoor bamboo plant! Brown tips on bamboo leaves are a common issue and can result from a few different factors. Based on your description, here are some possibilities to consider: 1. Water Quality (Fluoride or Chlorine) You're right to wonder about your tap water—bamboo can be sensitive to fluoride, chlorine, and other chemicals commonly found in municipal water. Over time, these can build up in the soil and damage the leaf tips. To help with this: Try using distilled water, rainwater, or water that has been left to sit out for 24–48 hours (which allows chlorine to dissipate). You can also occasionally flush the soil with clean, non-fluoridated water to help remove any buildup. 2. Low Humidity Indoor air—especially with heating or AC—can be quite dry. Bamboo prefers higher humidity levels. Mist your plant regularly or place a shallow tray of water and pebbles beneath the pot to increase humidity. Grouping plants together can also raise the local humidity level. 3. Underwatering Watering once every other week may not be enough, depending on your home's temperature, humidity, and the plant's container size. Brown tips can be a sign of inconsistent moisture. Try checking the soil weekly. If the top inch is dry, it's time to water. Bamboo likes consistently moist (but not soggy) soil. 4. Light Levels While bamboo doesn't need direct sunlight, it does need bright, indirect light to thrive. If your plant is in a very low-light spot, consider moving it closer to a window with filtered light. 5. Salt or Fertilizer Buildup Over time, salts from tap water or fertilizer can accumulate in the soil and damage roots. If you've been fertilizing, consider cutting back and flushing the soil with clean water occasionally. Hope these ideas will help you out!
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Bitterness in Cucumbers
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 01 - 1:28 am
- I'm growing cucumbers for the first time this year, and so far have only harvested a few. They are heirloom straight 8 cucumbers I started from seed. I'm harvesting them at about 6 inches long. I cut the ends off when I slice them to avoid bitterness, but they still seem to taste quite bitter and soapy. I'm not spraying them with anything, and I was them well with water when I harvest them. What might be making them bitter?
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! Bitterness in cucumbers—especially heirloom varieties like Straight 8—is a fairly common issue, although frustrating, and it’s usually due to the natural compounds called cucurbitacins. A few reasons you might be experiencing bitterness: First off, we have to think about environmental stress, especially given the extreme heat and big down pours we have been having. Cucurbitacin levels tend to rise when the plants are under stress and common stressors for cucumbers include: Inconsistent watering (periods of drought followed by heavy watering), high temperatures, and also poor soil fertility or nutrient imbalance. Straight 8 cucumbers tend to be prone to bitterness, especially in hot and dry conditions. Try to keep soil moisture even by watering regularly (especially during hot spells), and consider using mulch to conserve moisture and keep soil temps steady. There's a chance your cucumbers are sitting on the vine a little too long and getting a little overripe. If you notice any yellowing of the skin or a hard waxy exterior, they are likely getting a little too ripe. You could try harvesting a little sooner, maybe when they are 5 inches, to see if that helps. As you already seem to know, the bitter components are most concentrated at the the stem end, in the skin and just under the skin. In addition to trimming the end of off, you could try peeling the cucumbers. I've also heard of people soaking them in cold salted water for about 40 minutes once they are peeled. I haven't tried this myself, but I've heard it helps to reduce the bitterness. Their are some hybrid varieties that are bred to reduce bitterness. If none of the above ideas help you to reduce bitterness, you could try growing a hybrid variety next time and see if that helps. Good luck! We hope you are able to enjoy your cucumbers!
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Gardening Memorial
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Date Posted: Sat, Jun 21 - 9:46 pm
- My other recently died in Richmond. She was a lifelong gardener and member of Lewis Ginter botanical gardens. We her children would like to donate to a local project that would provide gardening access to kids and/or people with limited means or perhaps to a gardening section in the Richmond Public Library system. Lewis Ginter is only accepting contributions not something more tangible or lasting. Do you have any suggestions?
- Steven, I'm very sorry about your mother's passing. You all have a very thoughtful idea to honor her love of gardening and the Richmond community through a gift on her behalf. I'm happy to connect with you to share some ideas that I'm aware of and see is any of those resonate with what you all are looking for. I'll follow up with an email to connect more.
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Plant ID: Common Blue Violet (Viola sororia)
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Date Posted: Mon, Jun 09 - 7:29 pm
- Is this plant A weed Invasive
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! Based on the photo you shared, the plant appears to be Common Blue Violet (Viola sororia). While some gardeners consider it a weed due to its ability to spread vigorously, it is actually native to the eastern United States, including Virginia. Its spreading habit can be a challenge if you're aiming for a more controlled or manicured landscape. However, it also offers ecological benefits: it's a host plant for fritillary butterfly larvae, supports pollinators, and provides low-growing ground cover, especially in shady or naturalized areas.
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Hydrangea Pruning
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Date Posted: Wed, Jun 04 - 1:52 am
- Hello! My hydrangeas need some help. I inherited them with my new to me house in late fall, so this spring was my first opportunity to prune. They were already overgrown from the past owners. For the big leaf hydrangeas: I missed the fall pruning, so these haven't had a haircut since who knows when. The branches are getting weighed down from the weight of the flower and leaves, and the plant is very leggy. Should I try and start selectively and slowly clipping them back now or wait until they're done blooming and do it one big chop? If now, do I cut the old leggy wood back, or just the new green branches that are stemming from the old leggy wood (the two blooms on the top of the left bush are an example)? For the panicle hydrangea in the middle: I cut what I thought was way back this spring, but clearly not enough! Should I be trying to selectively trim some of this back now or bite the bullet and wait until spring and do a big chop? It's so tall and it's only May! Thank you!
- Thanks for reaching out—and congratulations on your new home and garden! It sounds like you’re giving your hydrangeas some thoughtful attention, which they’ll definitely appreciate. The blooms are beautiful! Here’s a breakdown of how to approach pruning both your bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) and your panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata): Bigleaf Hydrangeas : These bloom on old wood, meaning the flower buds for this summer formed last year. That’s why heavy spring pruning can often result in fewer blooms. Since yours are blooming now, I'd recommend that you hold off on major pruning until after they finish flowering—typically by mid to late summer. Then you can: Remove about 1/3 of the oldest, leggiest stems at the base to encourage new growth from the bottom and lightly shape the plant by shortening stems that look untidy or weighed down. Avoid pruning after August, however, as that risks cutting off next year’s flower buds. In the meantime, if any branches are flopping badly or blocking paths, you can do a light, selective trim now—just avoid heavy cuts that remove flower buds. Panicle Hydrangeas: These bloom on new wood, so you have more flexibility with timing. You’re absolutely right that they can grow quickly in spring! For now, you can lightly thin or shorten a few of the tallest stems to maintain a more manageable shape but avoid cutting more than 1/3 of the plant this time of year. If it’s still too tall for your space, plan for a more significant structural pruning next late winter/early spring, before new growth starts. General Tips: Always cut just above a pair of healthy buds or a leaf node. Use clean, sharp pruners to avoid disease. Consider adding mulch and checking soil drainage if plants look stressed or leggy—bigleaf hydrangeas especially like evenly moist (but not soggy) soil.
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Home Consultation
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Date Posted: Tue, Jun 03 - 11:24 am
- Hello, I stopped by the Master Gardener Help Desk last week and Pam told me that you all do yard consultations. I wondered if we could get one for our yard in the next couple of weeks. Please let me know. Best, Ellen
- Yes! We do have a group of master gardeners that offer home consultations. I will follow up with an email to get a few more details and then send your request to our group to try to get you connected with a volunteer.
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Becoming a City of Richmond Master Gardener
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Date Posted: Tue, Jun 03 - 11:20 am
- I'm interested in becoming a master gardener in Richmond, but haven't had much luck finding the resources to become one within city limits. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you!
- Hi Amber! We're excited to hear about your interest in becoming a Master Gardener in the City of Richmond. The city has been without an extension agent since 2021. Our group of Master Gardeners has been continuing on without that leadership, but has been unable to host classes for new master gardeners. Recently, we have gotten connected with Chesterfield and Henrico and now have opportunities to have new members go through their classes and still join the City of Richmond!! This has been a very excited opportunity for us. We will be opening applications for the program in September. I will send you an email, please e-mail me back to get on the wait list for more information as soon as it is available.
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Home Consult for Native Plants
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Date Posted: Tue, May 27 - 1:08 am
- I’m slowly redoing our front and back yards with native plants and would love some planning advice, including as to trees. Thank you!!
- Thank you so much for thinking of the Master Gardeners as you embark on the journey of redoing your yard with native plants! What an exciting venture that will have such a great impact! I will send you a follow up email to get a little more information from you in order to see if we have a volunteer available for a consultation. Please check your email to continue this conversation!