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Landscaping with Natives
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Date Posted: Tue, Nov 10 - 2:57 am
- Hello! I have a tiny front yard here in Richmond where I'm looking to plant some native perennials. It's a small area with little light. Most planting will be along the edge of the yard. I will probably slowly building this garden (adding a plant or two each year) Here are some things I'm looking for in the plants: - thrive in partial sun or shade - tolerates moisture - does not grow tall or can be cut back (don't want plants taller than about 2-3 feet, shorter is alright) - doesn't spread aggressively I am open to amending soil as needed, though that will be a slow process. Plants with pretty flowers or edible production would be a bonus, but not necessary. Do you have a few suggestions for appropriate plants for this area, so I can keep an eye out at local nurseries? Thank you!
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! I love that you're interested in incorporating native perennials into your front yard, and building your garden gradually is a wonderful approach. Adding a plant or two each year gives you time to see what thrives in your space and make adjustments along the way. Fortunately, there are quite a few Virginia native plants that enjoy shady conditions, tolerate moisture, and stay relatively compact. Plant Virginia Natives is a wonderful resource to check out: https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives And here are a few suggestions that might work well for your space: Golden Ragwort (Packera aurea): One of my favorite recommendations for shady areas! This native perennial produces cheerful yellow flowers in the spring, typically reaching about 1–2 feet tall when blooming. It tolerates moist soil and provides excellent groundcover. One thing to keep in mind is that it spreads by rhizomes and seed, so it may be more enthusiastic than you're looking for in a very small garden. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum): A lovely woodland perennial with delicate pinkish-purple flowers in the spring. It typically grows 1–2 feet tall, does well in partial shade, and forms attractive clumps without spreading aggressively. It prefers well-drained soil with consistent moisture rather than constantly wet conditions. Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia): A wonderful choice for a shady garden! This perennial produces delicate, airy spikes of white flowers in spring and has attractive foliage throughout much of the growing season. It typically stays around 6–12 inches tall, with taller flower stalks, and appreciates moist, humus-rich soil. Some varieties spread more readily than others. Green and Gold (Chrysogonum virginianum): Another excellent low-growing native groundcover with bright yellow flowers. It thrives in partial shade and generally stays under a foot tall. It can gradually spread to fill in an area, but is usually manageable. Blue Wood Sedge (Carex flaccosperma): If you're open to something without showy flowers, native sedges are worth considering! This one has attractive blue-green foliage, generally stays around 1–2 feet tall, and tolerates shade and moist soil. It can add wonderful texture to a garden alongside flowering perennials. You also mentioned being open to amending the soil. One of the benefits of planting natives is that many can thrive in existing soil conditions without extensive amendments, provided you choose plants suited to the site. Adding a little compost or leaf mulch can help improve soil structure over time, but I wouldn't worry about completely transforming your soil before getting started. One additional resource I'd highly recommend is the Virginia Native Plant Society! If you're on Facebook, consider joining their Virginia native plant community group. It's a great place to ask questions, see what other gardeners in our region are growing, learn about native plant sales, and get inspiration for smaller spaces. You may even find opportunities for plant swaps or divisions from other gardeners! You could also check out the Virginia Native Plant Society website, which has excellent resources for learning about native plants and local chapters. I hope these suggestions give you a great starting point! Native plant gardening can be incredibly rewarding, and even a small front yard can provide valuable habitat for pollinators and other wildlife. Happy gardening!
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Patio Gardening
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Date Posted: Thu, Nov 05 - 12:37 pm
- Hi! I want to grow on my patio in the city. I'd like to maybe try to do something in the winter like garlic or sweet potatoes (because I saw somewhere that this is possible). Is it possible to start now, and how would I do it? Thanks!
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! Growing vegetables on a patio is a wonderful way to get started with gardening, even if you have limited space. The good news is that garlic is a great option to plant right now! Fall is actually the ideal time to plant garlic in Central Virginia, as it needs a period of cold weather to develop properly. Here are a few tips for growing garlic in containers: Choose a container: Select a pot that is at least 10–12 inches deep with good drainage. Make sure there is enough room to space your garlic cloves about 4–6 inches apart. Personally, I've really enjoyed using fabric grow bags for container gardening! They're affordable, provide excellent drainage, and come in a variety of sizes, making them a great option for patios. Prepare your soil: Use a good-quality potting mix that drains well. Plant your garlic: You can purchase seed garlic from a garden center or reputable supplier. I've also had success purchasing garlic from local growers at farmers markets to plant in my own garden! If you go this route, look for locally grown garlic suitable for planting, and ask the grower about the variety. Separate the bulb into individual cloves, leaving the papery covering intact. Plant each clove about 2 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up. Find a sunny spot: Garlic grows best with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Care through winter: Water after planting and keep the soil lightly moist, but not soggy. A layer of mulch can help protect the garlic through winter. Because containers are more exposed to freezing temperatures than garden beds, consider protecting the pot during particularly cold weather. Your garlic will establish roots over the winter, begin growing more actively in the spring, and should be ready to harvest around June or July! Sweet potatoes, on the other hand, are a warm-season crop. They need warm soil and a long growing season, so they aren't a good choice for planting outdoors right now. However, you could plan to grow them in a large container or grow bag next spring, once the danger of frost has passed and temperatures have warmed up. Sweet potatoes grow from slips (rooted shoots) rather than seeds, and they can do quite well in containers with adequate space, sunlight, and water. If you're interested in growing something you can harvest during the winter, you might also consider cool-season greens such as spinach, kale, or certain lettuces. These can be grown in containers, although growth slows considerably during the coldest months, and some protection from freezing temperatures may be necessary. One other thing to consider is how much direct sunlight your patio receives, especially during the shorter winter days. This can make a big difference in which vegetables will grow successfully. We hope this encourages you to give patio gardening a try! It's a great way to learn, and you certainly don't need a large yard to grow some of your own food. A few resources to share: Garlic: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-411/426-411.html Sweet Potatoes: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/SPES/spes-770/spes-770-5.html Virginia planting guide: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-331/426-331.html
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Master Gardener Classes
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Date Posted: Thu, Nov 05 - 12:29 pm
- Do you provide Master Gardening classes/training?
- Hello! Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. The city of Richmond does partner with Henrico and Chesterfield to be able to offer the training necessary to become a Master Gardener. Our applications opened this past September and have already closed for the year. The classes will run January -April 2027. If you are interested in joining us in the future, please email rvamastergardeners@gmail.com and we will add you to the wait list and send you class information as soon as it is available next year.
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Home Consult
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Date Posted: Thu, Nov 05 - 12:24 pm
- We just took out a bunch of old bushes in front of our north-facing house and are looking for some guiding on designing an easy to maintain flower bed. Is this something a master gardener could help with? Thank you, Jamie
- Hello! Thank you for reaching out to the Master Gardeners! Yes, as our volunteers have capacity, we do help to consult on home gardening projects. I'll follow up with an email to get a little more information from you so we can see if we have someone available to connect with you. Keep an eye out for an email from rvamastergardeners@gmail.com
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Home Consult
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Date Posted: Fri, Oct 23 - 1:47 pm
- We just took out a bunch of old bushes in front of our north-facing house and are looking for some guiding on designing an easy to maintain flower bed. Is this something a master gardener could help with? Thank you, Jamie
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! Yes, we are able to offer home landscape consultations as volunteer availability allows. We'd be happy to learn more about your space and what you're hoping to accomplish to see how we might be able to help. We'll send you a follow-up email to connect with you directly and discuss next steps. Thank you again for your interest!
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Becoming a Master Gardener
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Date Posted: Fri, Oct 23 - 1:44 pm
- I am interested in attending a master garden program/class however, I have found no one with information. Can you assist me in gaining information of how I can become a master gardener?
- Thank you so much for your interest in becoming a Master Gardener! We typically offer training classes once a year, running from January through April. Classes meet twice a week and cover a wide variety of horticultural topics to help prepare participants for their role as Master Gardener volunteers. The training program includes approximately 50 hours of classroom instruction, along with 50 hours of volunteer service to be completed during the first year. After that, Master Gardeners in the City of Richmond Unit are required to complete 20 volunteer hours and 8 continuing education hours annually to maintain their active status. Applications typically open in September and have already closed for the upcoming class. However, we'd be happy to help you stay informed about future opportunities! If you'd like to be added to our interest list to receive information about the next training class, please email us at rvamastergardeners@gmail.com. Thank you again for your interest! We hope to see you in a future class!
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Dogwood & Crepe Myrtle
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Date Posted: Wed, Oct 14 - 1:29 am
- We recently moved into new house in Museum District and there is a Dogwood tree in the back yard that looks stressed...This is a photo from a bit ago. I checked and it is not bone dry at 3 to 5 inches down in the soil, as I realize to much or too little water can cause issues. Could it just be that there is no protection from the sun/canopy above it? Thanks for any thoughts. Also, what do you recommend for crepe myrtle that is getting the white powdery stuff on the leaves. Thanks!
- Thank you for reaching out and for sharing the photograph of your dogwood! Looking at the photo, I can definitely see why you're concerned. The leaves appear quite curled and wilted throughout the canopy, which suggests the tree is experiencing some type of stress. You are correct that sun exposure could be contributing! Flowering dogwoods are naturally understory trees, meaning they typically grow beneath the canopy of larger trees. They prefer some protection from intense afternoon sunlight, particularly during our hot Richmond summers. A dogwood growing in full sun can be more susceptible to heat and drought stress. That said, there are a few other things I would consider before concluding that sunlight is the primary issue: 1. Continue monitoring soil moisture. You're already doing the right thing by checking beneath the soil surface! Check several locations around the tree, including farther out toward the edge of the canopy. The goal is consistently moist, but not waterlogged, soil. Deep watering when needed is generally better than frequent shallow watering. Also, check the drainage. Dogwoods prefer well-drained soil and can struggle when their roots remain excessively wet. If the soil stays saturated for extended periods, that could also contribute to the symptoms you're seeing. 2. Consider the root zone. Since you've recently moved into the home, it's difficult to know whether the tree has experienced previous root disturbance, soil compaction, or other stress. The nearby hardscaping may also contribute to increased heat around the tree. Maintain a layer of mulch. Approximately 2–3 inches of organic mulch extending toward the drip line can help moderate soil temperatures and retain moisture. Keep mulch several inches away from the trunk. 3. Avoid fertilizing for now. Fertilizer generally won't resolve environmental stress and could potentially make matters worse. Some resources about dogwoods: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/3010/3010-1484/3010-1484.pdf https://fairfaxgardening.org/dogwood/ As for your crape myrtle, the white powdery substance you're describing sounds like powdery mildew, a very common fungal disease on crape myrtles. Fortunately, powdery mildew is usually more of a cosmetic concern than a serious health threat to an established tree. A few things you can do to help: 1. Improve air circulation around the plant by selectively pruning crowded branches during the appropriate pruning season. 2. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizer, which encourages tender new growth that can be particularly susceptible. 3. Rake up and remove fallen leaves as part of your fall cleanup. 4. If the problem is recurring and severe, a fungicide labeled for powdery mildew on crape myrtles may be an option. These treatments are most effective when applied early in disease development rather than after leaves are heavily affected. Since we're approaching the end of the growing season, I wouldn't recommend treating the mildew now unless there are unusual circumstances. The tree will soon lose its leaves naturally. Resources for Crepe Myrtles: https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/2901/2901-1040/2901-1040.pdf https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/430/430-451/SPES-387P.pdf
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Controlling trumpet vine
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Date Posted: Mon, Sep 28 - 12:15 am
- I have a home in Richmond / Church Hill and I am having a lot of trouble getting trumpet vine under control. Every time I cut it back it keeps growing back and it grows so quickly that it can reach the roof of my house in a single season. I need to remove it completely, I think, or it’s going to keep damaging the house. However I’m also very cautious about using herbicides that might damage the rest of my garden - the vines are adjacent to my vegetable plots and I want to maintain an insect-friendly habitat. How would you recommend I go about getting this trumpet vine under control without doing too much harm to the rest of the plant and insect life?
- Thank you for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardener Help Desk! Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) is a vigorous native vine, and unfortunately, an established plant can be quite difficult to remove. It spreads through an extensive root system and readily produces new shoots, so simply cutting the vine back usually does not eliminate it. Persistence will be an important part of whichever approach you choose. If you would like to avoid herbicides entirely, you can cut the vine to the ground and dig out as much of the main root system as possible. Continue removing new shoots as soon as they appear. The goal is to prevent the plant from producing leaves long enough to gradually exhaust the energy stored in its roots. With a well-established trumpet vine, this may require repeated removal over multiple growing seasons. Given the size and vigor you describe, another option would be a very targeted cut-stump herbicide treatment rather than spraying the vine or surrounding area. Cut the main stems close to the ground and, following the product label, apply an herbicide labeled for cut-stump treatment directly to the freshly cut surface. Products containing glyphosate or triclopyr are commonly used for this type of treatment. Applying the product only to the cut stem greatly reduces the potential for contact with nearby garden plants compared with spraying the foliage. In my experience, I have had success killing ivy with this method using Stump Out Stump and Vine Killer. I put it into an empty bingo dauber bottle and then can easily daub it on after I've made a cut. To help keep track of which vines you've daubed, you could add a bit of dye to the bottle. Because glyphosate is non-selective, it can damage any green plant tissue it contacts, so care should still be taken around your vegetables and other desirable plants. Always select a product whose label specifically allows the intended use and follow all label directions, including any precautions regarding edible crops. After removing the main vines, continue watching the surrounding area for new shoots. Trumpet vine can sucker some distance from the original plant, and promptly digging, pulling, or cutting these shoots will be important even after the main plant has been treated. This approach should allow you to focus control specifically on the trumpet vine while minimizing disturbance to the rest of your garden and insect habitat. Since the vine is growing on your house, I would also cut and disconnect the upper growth from the root system promptly to prevent additional growth against the structure. Once disconnected, allow the upper vine to die back before carefully removing it from the house rather than pulling vigorously on attached vines. Good luck with this process!
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Planting plans for dwarf trees/shrubs
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Date Posted: Mon, Sep 14 - 12:51 am
- Hello, I hope your day is going well. I have a question pertaining to placing a dwarf tree/shrub close to the house. For the two dwarf trees/shrubs, listed below, how far from the house foundation should I place them? I am looking to place a Dwarf Globe Blue Spruce (Picea pungens 'Globosa') or a dwarf false cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Night Light' or 'Nana Lutea') in a bed that is against my house. These are both dwarf trees but also called shrubs/bushes based on their heights. I was reading about placing a tree the distance away from the house as it is tall. The mature height of these two dwarf tree/shrub is around 4-6ft after 10 years but if left unpruned for longer can be a few feet taller potentially, but I couldn't find a reliable source to back this claim. If I place them away from the house at the mature height after 10 years but do not account for however it may get after decades, would it mess up my house's foundation or do I need to not worry about it? Thank you so much for your time and help. Have a great day
- Thank you so much for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners. This is a great question, and its very smart of you to be considering planting shrubs based on their mature size and not based on the size they are in the pot, as many people do. As with all things gardening, there are different perspectives that people have when considering this question, and some things will depend on your personal preference. Generally, we'd recommend shrubs to be planted at least 1/2 the diameter of the mature width away from the house plus 1 - 3 feet. So if a shrub has a mature 6' width, they should be planted at least 4' away from the house if not 5' or 6' away. The additional space leaves for a gap between the plant and house to allow airflow against the house and reduces the need for pruning. If you don't mind pruning, the shrubs can be planted closer to the house. If you would rather not prune that much, plant them farther away. It seems like you are already aware that "dwarf" varieties will happily grow beyond what their label lists as their maximum size, particularly after decades, as you mentioned. Because of this, you could also ere on planting a little farther from the house as opposed to closer. Its unlikely the roots from either plant will damage the house's foundation, even after decades. Ultimately, you should be safe planting at least 5' from the house for these two plants. Another thing to consider is how close these shrubs are planted to one another. You can use the same recommendation for determining distance from the house and space the shrubs 1/2 their mature spread plus 1' pending how intermingled you prefer the mature shrubs to be. For the two shrubs you are considering, you could think about spacing them at least 6 if not 7 feet apart. This way they can grow without pruning to a nice mature size and not bump into each other. If you prefer the look of a heavier prune, you could plant them closer together. Hope this is helpful! Best of luck to you!
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Prune or Transplant?
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Date Posted: Sat, Sep 12 - 1:12 am
- We have several shrubs that we planted about 3 years ago that have been thriving. I thought we had spaced everything well but they've really exploded in growth. They're all beautiful and seem healthy. We've let them get pretty wild but I am worried now that we're at the point of overcrowding. We have a Spice Girl Viburnum, a Sweet Talker Viburnum, and a Crimson Fire Loropetalum together and the Loropetalum is closest to our Flame Thrower Redbud tree. (In the pictures you'll also see Radiance Abelias but if possible, we don't want to move those as they are right along the border with our garden path). How do I decide if I just need some more intentional pruning or if it's time to move one of the plants? Which would you recommend moving? The Sweet Talker Viburnum is the one closest to the fence and there is some room to move it but is it feasible to try to shift it over if it's only a shift 6-18"? Would it be better to move the Lorapetalum? I appreciate your advice!
- Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your shrubs are very happy in their location, which is a great problem to have! After only three years, however, they may still have quite a bit of growing to do, so this is a good time to think about their mature sizes rather than just their current sizes. Some overlap between shrubs isn't necessarily a problem, particularly if you're going for a full, layered garden. The concern is when plants become crowded enough that they are competing for light and space, developing an uneven shape, rubbing against structures or neighboring plants, or requiring frequent pruning just to keep them within their allotted area. Virginia Cooperative Extension recommends spacing shrubs according to their mature size; overcrowding can eventually reduce flowering and air circulation and create competition for resources. I would start by looking up the expected mature width of each of your specific cultivars and measuring from the center of each plant to its neighbors. This will give you a better idea of whether you're dealing with vigorous young growth that can be managed with selective pruning or plants that ultimately don't have enough room. For your viburnums, I would wait until immediately after they finish blooming next spring to do any significant pruning. Spring-flowering shrubs generally form their flower buds on the previous year's growth, so pruning them now, over the winter, or early next spring would remove many of next year's flowers. When you do prune, I would favor selective thinning and removal of individual branches rather than shearing the outside of the shrub. The goal is to preserve the plant's natural shape rather than continually making it smaller. If your measurements show that the shrubs will still substantially overlap at maturity, I would consider transplanting rather than committing to increasingly heavy pruning every year. Fall, after deciduous plants enter dormancy, is a good time to move established shrubs in Virginia. I probably would not dig up an established viburnum simply to move it 6–18 inches. For a three-year-old shrub, that's quite a bit of root disturbance for relatively little additional growing room. If 6–18 inches truly resolves the mature-spacing issue, it can be done, but I would first see whether thoughtful pruning accomplishes what you need. Of the plants you mentioned, I would pay particular attention to the Crimson Fire loropetalum's relationship with the Flame Thrower redbud. The redbud will continue developing a much larger canopy and root system, so if the loropetalum is positioned where the two will increasingly interfere with one another, moving the loropetalum to a location where it has adequate room at maturity may provide a better long-term solution than repeatedly pruning it away from the tree. Since all of the plants currently look healthy, you don't necessarily need to make an immediate change. You could use this fall and winter to measure the bed and compare those measurements with the cultivars' mature sizes, then enjoy the viburnums' flowers next spring and make your pruning or transplanting decisions from there. Also, here's a great resource for pruning: https://ext.vt.edu/lawn-garden/pruning.html