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Cilantro regeneration
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 1:45 pm
- I had to go out of town and my cilantro got neglected. What can/should I do now? It has gone to seed and there are no more leaves. I cant figure out how to insert a photo or I would.
- Hello there, This is always an issue with plants and time away....But since cilantro is so versatile, I don't think you have a problem. First, you can actually use the seeds for seasoning. But, if you don't like that idea, simply plant the seeds you now have and soon enough you'll have a new crop of cilantro. It's a plant that doesn't especially like hot weather (because it 'bolts' or sets seeds) so you can't have the same plant for a long season but if you just keep planting the new seeds that set you'll have a continuous crop. It's a pretty quick turnaround for harvesting the leaves, 3-4 weeks. If you sow new seed every couple of weeks you can keep that herb going through fall!!Good luck with the project!
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Trellising Blackberries
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 1:44 pm
- I am wanting to grow blackberries in containers. I have a full sun spot behind my house. Do you think galvanized feeder troughs would be a good thing in which to plant them? And was planning/thought I could trellis them on my fence - do you think that would work? Thank you
- Hello there, that sounds like a great scheme. The troughs should be fine. Galvanized containers are only a problem when they start to corrode so starting with new ones will be fine and serve you for many years. You didn't mention the type of blackberry or the height of your fence. Assuming you are using erect blackberries they will probably top out at 4-5 ft. tall. So factor that in with the height of your planters. If your trough is a foot high add in the mature height of the bushes at 5 feet. Assuming your fence is 6 feet high your good to go. Even if the fence is a bit shorter it will still work. Blackberries can get pretty tangled so you're smart to want to control them a bit with a support. Generally, you will cut down the cane after it has fruited and you've harvested. However, the pruning can vary depending on whether the plant fruits in summer or fall so just be sure to get all that information when you select a variety. It would be good to have some air circulation behind and around the plants so hopefully your fence isn't solid boards. You might wind up with some space in the front of the berries which could be a nice spot for growing herbs. Good luck with the project!
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Eradicating Giant Taro
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Date Posted: Wed, Aug 18 - 1:43 pm
- Continuing along the theme of invasive species, we have several clumps of elephant ears (giant taro) in our yard that we are trying to eradicate. We have dug them up twice already and they keep coming back. Any tips or solutions that can rid of us of this invasive plant? Thank you very much.
- Good morning, and thank you for your question! Giant Taro (elephant ear) are dramatic and beautiful to admire, but we know they can be problematic spreaders. This invasive plant is typically hardy only in zones 8-11, but with our recent mild winters here in zone 7, they easily thrive. They are best planted in very large pots in the garden or on the patio, where they can be contained and enjoyed without the spread. The best organic approach for removal and eradication of elephant ear in the garden is to simply dig them up (and likely repeatedly), until they are all gone. It sounds like you’ve taken this approach twice and they’ve come back. Be sure and dig wide and deep enough to remove all small pieces of the corms (tubers), and dispose of them in a plastic garbage bag. These small pieces can colonize and form new plants if left in the ground. Remove the soil in the area and replace it as well. As you’ve learned, this often requires repetition until they are all gone. If any new growth emerges during the fall, repeat the process, cutting down all growth to 1” above the ground and dig up the tubers and all small corm pieces in the ground before winter. I wish I had more magic tricks for you to try to solve this. Perhaps we’ll have a colder winter this year (more in line with our climate zone) which will help as well. Good luck!
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Shasta Daisy-browning, die back
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:52 pm
- I have a large shasta daisy that I planted along my side yard years ago. About 3 years ago it started having "issues". It starts the spring with very green and abundant stems/leaves. And everything seems wonderful as the plant starts to bud....but then the flowers bloom already browning and die quickly. I am guessing it has some kind of wilt but not sure what to do. I also have dianthus in pots up my steps for the first time and it appeared that they also caught "the wilt" but they seem to be bouncing back. Not so for my Shasta daisies. Is there anything I can spray them with or can I transplant? It's such a gorgeous prolific plant.
- Sorry to hear of your daisy troubles. I'm going to refer to a previous answer I gave about Rudbeckia 'Goldsturm'. The daisies are also one of the stalwarts of the garden but can run into various problems. Please see the rudbeckia answer below. I didn't spell it out in the answer below but good drainage and air circulation are essential for plant growth and prevention of fungal diseases. And again, if your plants continue to succumb, selection of a new plant for your particular environment may be a good solution. Good luck, let us know your progress! "Rudbeckias are usually pretty sturdy plants but they do succumb to some fungal issues. Sometimes the problem could be attributed to too much water, so that's a simple fix. Or, you may be dealing with septoria leaf spot or a similar fungus. Rain and humidity contribute to the problem. You can start with some cultural practices. Remove all affected leaves and put them in the trash. The fungus overwinters in infected plant debris so you want to clean up the area around the plants to make them less inviting to the fungus. You may also try moving the plants to a spot with new soil and seeing if the plants improve over time. Additionally, do not water from overhead. Try a soaker hose so that the foliage does not get wet. You could also try a baking soda solution spray but that's usually better at prevention. A neem oil solution may be effective. You may decide to simply remove them from the garden and substitute another perennial that's less susceptible. There are many choices. A lot of gardening is just adapting to your circumstances and trying new plants that may be better suited to your patch of ground. Best of luck with your garden! "
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Rudbeckia-leaves blackened
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:51 pm
- I’m having a problem with my Rudbeckia Goldstrum. The leaves are blackening and the plants dry out and die. I took pictures but can’t figure out how to attach them to this message. So far the problem is only with the Rudbeckia.
- Hello there, Rudbeckias are usually pretty sturdy plants but they do succumb to some fungal issues. Sometimes the problem could be attributed to too much water, so that's a simple fix. Or, you may be dealing with septoria leaf spot or a similar fungus. Rain and humidity contribute to the problem. You can start with some cultural practices. Remove all affected leaves and put them in the trash. The fungus overwinters in infected plant debris so you want to clean up the area around the plants to make them less inviting to the fungus. You may also try moving the plants to a spot with new soil and seeing if the plants improve over time. Additionally, do not water from overhead. Try a soaker hose so that the foliage does not get wet. You could also try a baking soda solution spray but that's usually better at prevention. A neem oil solution may be effective. You may decide to simply remove them from the garden and substitute another perennial that's less susceptible. There are many choices. A lot of gardening is just adapting to your circumstances and trying new plants that may be better suited to your patch of ground. Best of luck with your garden!
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Controlling Japanese Beetles
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:50 pm
- How can I safely control Japanese beetles? They're devouring my roses. I don't want to use anything that would hurt bees or hummingbirds.
- Thank you for your question. I certainly understand the extent of damage Japanese beetles can cause to all parts of the Rose bush - buds, leaves, and flowers! A very safe, organic, and effective means to control Japanese beetles is a routine spray of a Neem oil solution. A Neem oil solution both kills and repels the beetles when applied every 7-10 days. This solution is totally organic and non-toxic to bees or birds. Simply mix 2 tablespoons of Neem oil per gallon of water, and spray all parts of the rose plant. A side benefit is that this Neem oil solution also controls aphids, lace bugs, mealybugs, and spider mites. Another solution is a simple soap and water solution (although not quite as effective at repelling the beetles as the Neem oil solution). Mix 4 tablespoons of dish soap with water in a spray bottle and spray all parts of the plant. Best of luck! Let us know if you have other questions!
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Planting under Magnolia tree
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:49 pm
- Hi! I have a huge magnolia tree in my backyard that constantly drops leaves all over. I don’t rake very often because it takes hours and the ground just gets covered up again in a few days. I have two questions for you. The first is, should I be raking? By that I mean is there any benefit to doing so (besides aesthetic) and/or any harm in not doing it? My second question is what should I plant under the areas that are constantly covered by leaves? The few occasions I have raked, I’ve discovered that there is just dirt under all those leaves. No grass or other ground cover. I want to start raking near my back porch stairs to avoid wet leaves being piled up against the wood, but I can picture the bare dirt turning to mud very quickly if I do that. Is there any ground cover that will survive being smothered by leaves? I want to at least plant something around my back porch, but I’m curious if there is anything I can or should plant under the rest of the leaf pile. Thank you for your help!
- Hello! It sounds like you have a beautiful, mature Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora). Along with the beauty of these magnificent trees comes the never ending pile-up of their large leaves. Since you prefer to keep the area tidy (and to avoid potential rotting around porch posts), I would recommend routine cleanup with a leaf blower, and planting some nice, shade loving perennials. Once you have some plants in place under the tree, a leaf blower is really the most practical way to keep the area tidy (as a side note, if you happen to compost it really is best to shred the Magnolia leaves with a mulching mower first). As far as plant options under your tree, I would recommend any combination of the following: native ferns, hellebores, pachysandra, or hosta (if you have no deer problems). All of these plants tolerate shade, and should allow you to periodically use the leaf blower to keep things tidy. Magnolia trees have shallow roots, often near the ground surface, so take care when you do your planting to avoid damage to those roots. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Mint-powdery mildew
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:48 pm
- I am growing organic mint in a pot. Noticed that there is powdery white stuff on the leaves. What is that and how can I treat it naturally? Is it safe to eat / use the mint leaves if it has this white powdery stuff on it? Thanks Vilma
- The powdery white stuff you see sounds like the fungus powdery mildew. This is a very common problem with many plants but it is not difficult to correct in this type of situation. If you can, first, isolate the plant and remove affected leaves. There are many solutions. I'll list 3 here and you can see which one suits you and try another if the first choice doesn't do the trick. 1.Try using this combination-1 gallon water, 1/2 teaspoon non-detergent soap, 1 tablespoon baking soda. Pour this solution into a clean spray bottle and liberally apply this to the plant. The soap will help the diluted baking soap stick to the mint leaves and stems. It's best to water the plant well before using the solution and don't apply while the plant is in hot sun, early morning is best. You can repeat this every 7 days and after a rain. Some people feel this works best as a preventative rather than a control. So if you find that you're having the same issue with powdery mildew year after year, apply this solution at the beginning of the season. 2. Another solution is a mixture of 3 tbsp. of neem oil to one gallon of water, sprayed onto affected plants every 7-14 days. Again, don't spray while the plant is in hot sun to avoid burning. 3. And yet another possibility is using milk. I have never tried this but I understand you can get some good results. Try a mixture of 4 parts milk to six parts water and spray bi-weekly. Apply in early morning. In all cases, try any solution on a test leaf first to see how the plant responds. And no, I wouldn't eat the leaves that are covered in powdery mildew but once the plant shows no signs of the fungus, feel free to use the plant in whatever dish you like. Good luck and let us know which solution was successful for you.
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Leafminers...
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:46 pm
- My broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower has white vine like lines on the leaves. What are they and how do I get rid of them. My plants look like they are not thriving now.
- It sounds like you've got leafminers. They have a broad range of host plants and they seem to like your garden. The first thing to do is remove the affected leaves and dispose of them in the trash (not in compost). If you check the underside of the leaf you will most likely see small white eggs, you don't want those to hatch, so straight to the trash. There are several generations of this pest in one season so you will need to keep a close eye out for signs of their existence. You may see eggs, larvae and flys. Sometimes using sticky traps and row covers for the flies works well. If just removing the affected leaves isn't keeping the numbers down you might try using neem oil or beneficial insects such beneficial nematodes or parasitic wasps. I personally haven't had experience with beneficial insects as an intervention so I don't have any particular insight there. Start with removing the affected leaves and checking plants frequently for eggs and tunneling larvae. Good luck and good gardening!
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Lavender siting, growing
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 17 - 8:42 pm
- I have 3 small (6 " high) lavender plants. Where is the best place to plant? Do the roots get deep/wide? How long will it take for them to get 2 feet tall? Any best practices? Thank you.
- Hello there, lavender is a lovely plant and generally not fussy if given the right conditions. It's partial to warm and dry, not so fond of humidity, but if you plant it in area with good air circulation that should help. Also, it needs well-draining soil, no compacted clay for this plant. As far as height and growth, without knowing the cultivar it's hard to say but it will probably put on a couple of inches of growth each year and most varieties are in the 2-3 foot height at maturity. Enjoy the fragrance!