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Ilex glabra-Inkberry
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Date Posted: Thu, Apr 20 - 8:37 pm
- We planted 5 ilex glabra bushes in October. One of them suddenly (within less than 12 hours) had it's leaves turn brown/black and fall off. The stalks and stems all seem fine, and it still has some leaves on one side. The other ones all seem fine, although they haven't grown much and have a few yellow/brown leaves. Do you know what happened and what we can do to protect the plants? Thank you!
- Hello there, Sorry to hear of your situation. Unfortunately, it's difficult to diagnosis from this distance. It could be soil, possibly chlorosis, maybe spider mites. First, I would contact the garden center where you purchased your plants. Often, plants are guaranteed for a year. So if you have proof of purchase I would definitely tell them about the condition of your shrubs, what they advise and what they can do for you. You could also check in with one of the Master Gardeners that man the help desks at the library branches. Check out your local library and find out what days and times the help desk is manned. It may still be difficult to diagnose without seeing the actual planting. Bring pictures and as much information about where the shrubs are situated. You can also get a kit for a soil test from the Master Gardeners, which may be helpful to ensure the future health of the 10 plants. There is also a plant clinic but again, I would start with the garden center where you made your purchase. And, of course, check in with a Master Gardener. They are a wonderful resource.
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Container Gardens
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Date Posted: Sun, Apr 02 - 9:53 pm
- Thank you so much for doing this! I have two questions. First, do you have any advice on what native plants grow well and look nice in containers? I'm hoping to make my small patio/balcony (full sun) as pollinator and bird-friendly as possible. Second, I'd like to include some milkweeds to attract monarchs. I have a small patch of mulched ground (16x20 inches) against a fence. Would swamp milkweed grow well there and/or in containers?
- Hello there, Glad to be of service! I like your native container garden idea. If you want to attract birds, growing berries will make them happy. Blueberries do well in containers and they're beautiful year round plants. Be sure to plant at least 3 different varieties that bloom around the same time. Cross pollination improves the yield; and you need plants that are blooming at the same time to achieve that. The rabbiteye and the southern high bush should work well for you. Some varieties of southern high bush are: Golf Coast, Misty and Ozarkblue. Varieties of rabbiteye are: Powderblue, Brightwell, and Pink Lemonade. You'll need a good size container, maybe 18-20 inches deep and wide and a good acidic soil mix. Blueberries require an acidic soil. In addition to the blueberries, strawberries also do well in containers. You can seek out the native virginia strawberry. They are pretty easy to care for assuming you can give them all day sun. I like your idea of using the swamp milkweed. It's such a beautiful plant, has fragrance and attracts a wide variety of visitors. You could also use that plant in a container; just be sure the soil is moist. The orange butterfly weed is also quite pretty and attractive to pollinators. There is a publication you can download here: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/58e25c41e6f2e17ea4cb7766/t/5ed00bfcb208c2251311ebc6/1590692887078/Native+Plants+for+Virginia%27s+Capital+Region+Guide+for+download.pdf. It gives many examples of native plants from trees to perennials. It's a very useful brochure. The website- plantvirginianatives. org has a wealth of information I think you will find useful. Good luck with this project. Happy gardening!
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Starting an organic garden
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Date Posted: Tue, Mar 28 - 8:55 pm
- Hi, I am interested in growing my own vegetable and herb garden. Ive done it before but am not skilled on the ins and outs of organic gardening. I have researched classes in the area but am not really finding anything. Do you have good resources to help me? I have started growing seeds this year with quite a few hiccups so far, and am doing raised beds to attempt to keep the weeds at bay. I've got a lot to learn!
- Hello there, glad you'll be working on an organic garden. As with everything, it just takes practice. Starting plants from seed isn't as easy as one might think. After all, nature does it all the time. But you're not really working like nature when you start seeds inside. So you just have to mimic as best you can. Some folks that start seeds indoors will have a set up in a basement (or other free space) using an old table or two with shop lights above. The lights might be attached to the ceiling by chains and adjusted as the plants grow. And timers can provide the correct amount of light. Records should be kept so that you know which seed is which, the day it was planted, the maturity date, light and heat requirements, etc. So it can get complicated. But these days there are lots of varieties that are readily available as seedlings so you don't always have to do it yourself. That's a nice change. I usually recommend a book on permaculture--Gaia's Garden by Toby Hemenway. It may be more information than you want right now but if you could find it at the library the chapters on soils and building beds would probably be helpful. You'll want to test your soil first so you know where you stand. I highly recommend checking in with the library branch you like and seeing when a Master Gardener will be on duty at the help desk. They will have soil test kits and can explain the process and will be happy to answer any and all questions you may have. They love sharing information! if you go to the Main branch you may be able to pick up some free seed at the Seed Bank. Best of luck with your project. Happy gardening!
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Starting a new garden
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Date Posted: Sat, Mar 25 - 4:25 pm
- Hi! I live off of N 18th St. and my apartment building has a very large bed that has been empty for a while and that I would like to start growing in (herbs and vegetables). I plan to come pick up a soil kit to test the current soil in the bed. Is that a first step you'd recommend? After testing the soil, are there specific veggies and herbs you'd recommend for the climate/area we're in? Are there any recommended local places that I could get starters and/or transplants? I also have read that I'll likely need to turn the soil to loosen it up. Welcome suggestions. Thanks! - Marg
- Hello Marg, Nice to hear you're interested in growing food. My first question/concern is if you have cleared this project with the owners or property manager of the apartment you're living in. That would be the first item on the check list. After that, testing the soil is a necessary step. Then, depending on the results, you would add any needed amendments. You can never go wrong by adding compost to the bed. Compost is a good addition because it can lighten heavy soils and enrich sandy soils. As far as what to plant, that would really depend on what you want to plant. I would make a list of desired vegetables and herbs and then see what zone they are appropriate for. Your basic tomatoes, zucchini, basil and parsley will do fine here. The important thing is to check the zone and maturity dates for whatever you are planting. If you want to plant spinach or lettuce or similar greens be aware that they like cool temperatures so they'll need a head start. When it gets too hot they will "bolt" or go to seed and be done for the summer planting season. You can pull them and replace them with a heat-loving vegetable. They can also be planted again as a fall crop when the weather starts to cool a bit. You can find seedlings at most garden centers. I think that Lowe's, Home Depot and similar stores offer some organic seedlings. I would check about both types of stores to see if they offer what you want to plant. Please check out the Master Gardeners who man the help desks at your local library. Check in with the library to see what days and times the gardeners are available. They will give you a wealth of information and advice. Also, if you go to the Main Library there is a seed bank (in an old card catalog) near the indoor entrance. The availability of seeds waxes and wanes but it's worth a try! Good luck with your project. Happy gardening!
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Chamomile lawn
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Date Posted: Sun, Mar 05 - 1:28 am
- Hi there! We live in the Museum District, and have a very small front lawn area, currently covered in mulch, in direct sunlight. We are interested in planting a chamomile lawn there. Do you know anyone who's done this in the area? Do you know where we could source chamomile plants, as opposed to having to sprout the seeds ourselves? Any suggestions in particular? We know that once we plant it, we can't walk on it for a few months. Many thanks!
- Hello there, this is a nice idea. I'm thinking you're thinking of Roman chamomile, the perennial (the low growing version which is short lived but will self seed, which is a plus). Unfortunately, I don't have a source for chamomile plugs. However, if you have a nursery you like you could try calling them to see if they might be able to order some plugs for you so your lawn gets off to a quicker start. You may also be able to save some money by buying plugs. I know you have a small space to work with but I'm wondering if you wouldn't want to add another layer to the planting, to maximize the pollinator opportunities. It might be nice to have the ground covered with chamomile and some other plantings of echinacea or rudbeckia in a grouping or two. Either way, I think you'll be happy with the change. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Camellia Pruning
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Date Posted: Thu, Mar 02 - 4:57 pm
- We have a camelia bush in our front yard that is as old as our house. It’s probably 25 ft wide at its widest. It’s in desperate need of a trim, but I have no idea how to do that! I don’t want To harm the bush at all, but I know it needs to be trimmed. I can provide pictures if helpful!
- Hello there, so you have a very happy camellia on your hands. I'm going to guess it's a japanese camellia, flowering from mid-winter to early spring. The other popular variety is camellia sasanqua, which flowers in late summer, fall or early winter (depending on selection) and is generally smaller and looser than the japanese varieties. Either way you want to wait until after the plant blooms to prune (otherwise you'll miss the bloom period). Of course, if that isn't you uppermost concern and you just want to get it under control, then anytime can work. I'm attaching an article from Southern Living magazine that describes a pruning method I think will work for you. The method basically treats the shrub as a tree which would decrease your time and effort of trying to prune such a large plant back to shrub proportions. Here is the article. The last paragraph is the key. https://www.southernliving.com/garden/shrubs/when-to-prune-camellias As always use sharp clean pruners and pruning saws so disease isn't transferred to the new cuts you'll be making. Good luck and happy gardening!
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Building soil
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Date Posted: Sun, Feb 26 - 5:45 pm
- We are making new raised beds for flowers and veggies. We are designing them with a wooden frame and then approaching the layers as a lasagne garden. My partner is thinking he can use only mushroom compost and cardboard to fill these beds but from what I read we need about 75% soil and 25% mushroom compost. Is this accurate for Richmond soils? Thanks for your insights on how to best lay the ground materials for thriving flower & veggie beds. Much appreciated, Jāna
- Hello Jana, My go-to resource for soil building is the permaculture guide--Gaia's Garden. The recommendation for building soil through compost is to use half green matter and half brown (to attain a good ratio of nitrogen to carbon). Green matter would be leaves, grass clippings, kitchen scraps (but also manure) and the brown would be dried leaves, hay (includes weeds), straw, pruning trimmings, and wood shavings or similar. The book discusses all issues such temperature of pile, size, turning, etc. The mushroom compost is great but I think the combination of materials will lead to a longer stretch of fertility in the beds. With different materials leaching their nutrients at different times. The beds will consume a lot of mulching material. One way to deal with this is to use any brush you may have collected and build hugelkultur beds. They are basically a mound of brush (tamped down), well watered and covered with organic materials, compost and soil. So you may want to use a combination of hugelkultur and organic matter with a good topping of mushroom compost. I recommend reading Gaia's Garden's chapter 4-Bringing the Soil to Life. The author's favorite method for doing so is sheet mulching (lasange gardening). Happy gardening!
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Volunteer Opportunity
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Date Posted: Fri, Feb 03 - 8:56 pm
- I am a volunteer with the Patrick Henry School of Science and the Arts Garden Committee. We would like to have a field day with soil testing in our raised beds and our rain garden. Would any Master Gardeners be available to assist with this field day on Thursday, March 2 and Friday, March 3?
- Hello there, thank you for your question. We love working on school gardens. I would like to get some more information regarding this project. If you email me at -- jrreilly2323@gmail.com we can sort out the details. Thanks for thinking of us!
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Native shrubs
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Date Posted: Mon, Jan 09 - 5:37 pm
- Hello, I am looking for a shrub to plant as a privacy screen. I will be planting along the south fence line of my property; however, the fence line itself is already planted with Chinese privet trees (ugh) that can't be removed, so anything I plant may get some shade from these trees. I'm looking for something 5-6 feet tall that will provide a sight barrier without getting too bushy (I don't want it to intrude too far into my yard). Native and/or pollinator-friendly would be a big plus! Any thoughts?
- Hello there, too bad about the privet but your planting will help to bring some pollinators and wildlife into your garden. The first shrub that comes to mind is inkberry (Ilex glabra). There are many varieties of this plant out there with different mature heights. So when shopping be very careful to read the tag and ask questions about the ultimate height and width of the plant you are choosing. The plant is evergreen and has small white flowers (not terribly noticeable) in spring that develop into small dark blue to black berries. Other native choices are mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia) and evergreen bayberry (Morella caroliniensis). Mountain laurel can grow to 12 feet or more but can also be pruned to control height and create a bushier shrub. It has beautiful blooms in spring and is evergreen. It does like some shade so maybe the privet will help with that. It does not like clay soil. Bayberry is also evergreen and can mature around 7-10 feet. It's not too particular about soils and can take shade. It has small flowers that develop into those waxy gray blue berries most people are familiar with. All these choices are native and will attract pollinators and wildlife. Best of luck with your project!
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Starting seedlings
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Date Posted: Fri, Jan 06 - 9:22 pm
- I’m having trouble understanding when I should start planting certain plants. Also, if I have to do it inside or not. I wanted to plant native wildflowers all around my yard. This is my first time doing it and I’m unsure if I should just get a raised bed or use my ground. Where can I go to get help and is there a basic planting calendar for starting?
- Hello there, The process of starting plants from seed can seem daunting. Different plants have different requirements. Your best source of information is on the seed packet. It should state whether the seed needs warmth to germinate (which would indicate that you should probably start those plants indoors, with sufficient lighting, but note that some plants don't need light to germinate but will need the lighting after germination). You'll need to know how long a seed usually takes to germinate (that will be on the seed packet). You'll need to know when it's safe (temperature/weather) to take any indoor-grown plants outside. Generally growing from seed takes labeling and record keeping. I used to grow plants that needed an indoor headstart in my basement under grow lights that could be adjusted to accommodate the increasing height of plants. It works well if you have the space. Having a check list of plant name, days to germination, date to set outside, etc. is incredibly helpful. Having the seeds labeled in their growing medium is also important. There is an alternative method that some people use called winter sowing. Which is basically making a mini greenhouse out of a container. You can use various containers (I find the large plastic bins that contained greens from the grocery store very useful but you can also use gallon jugs w/tops cut off or similar). My personal experience with winter sowing involved chard, spinach, lettuce-plants that like the cool weather. But I'm sure it will work for flowering plants as well. The beauty of winter sowing is that the light needed is easily provided by mother nature. If you have newly ripened seed, that could go straight into the ground but most people are working with seeds that have been harvested and stored and are thinking about planting in spring. Hence, things get a bit more complicated. You'll want to work backwards from the last frost date to figure out when to plant your seeds. You may be planting different seeds at different times. Richmond is between zone 7a and 7b, so April 15th seems like a reasonable last frost date (though it's possible we could have one a bit later). Keep your eye on the weather. There's lots of information online such as plant record keeping templates you can print out for your records and info about the process of winter sowing. You'll probably wind up doing a combination of indoor starts and winter sowing. Just remember, those plant packets are your best resource! Good growing !!