Master Gardener – Answers
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Pruning a dwarf apricot tree
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Date Posted: Thu, May 08 - 11:20 pm
- We have a dwarf apricot tree in our backyard near our privacy fence (designated by purple arrow in photo). Unfortunately, one of the medium size limbs at the top has stretched over our privacy fence into our neighbor’s yard. I want to but the limb but I’m nervous about damaging the tree since it’s spring time. Would it be okay to cut it at this time of year?
- Thanks for your question about pruning your dwarf apricot tree. It’s totally understandable to want to manage the limb growing into your neighbor’s yard, and you’re right to think carefully about timing. While late winter or early spring (before bud break) is generally the best time to prune apricot trees, light or selective pruning—even now in late spring—is okay, especially if it’s necessary to maintain boundaries or reduce potential damage. Just keep a few tips in mind to minimize stress on the tree: -Use clean, sharp tools to make a clean cut just outside the branch collar (the slightly swollen area where the limb connects to the trunk or larger branch). -Avoid removing more than 10–15% of the tree’s total canopy during the growing season. -Try to prune on a dry day to reduce the risk of fungal infections entering the fresh cut. If you only need to remove one medium-sized limb, your apricot tree should tolerate it well—especially if it's otherwise healthy. Make sure to monitor the tree through the season for any signs of stress (like leaf drop or dieback) and water consistently during dry spells.
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Rhododendron Questions
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Date Posted: Thu, May 08 - 11:14 pm
- I have an established rhododendron and a couple of questions 1. Some leaves tern yellow and die and fall off 2. Others show yellowing but remain 3. New shoots form at the base but die never to mature 4 is there any way to encourage new growth on the old branches
- Thanks for reaching out with your rhododendron questions! You’ve made some great observations, and your plant is definitely trying to tell you something. Here are a few possible explanations and tips based on what you described: Yellowing and Leaf Drop: Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal, especially for older inner leaves. However, widespread or early-season yellowing in Richmond can also point to stress from heat or underlying root issues, particularly since rhododendrons are naturally cool-climate, understory plants. Our warm springs and hot summers can make them more susceptible to systemic diseases or environmental stress. Persistent Yellow Leaves: This could be a sign of sun stress—rhododendrons prefer morning sun with dappled afternoon shade. Too much direct, hot afternoon sun can cause the kind of yellowing you're seeing. Poor drainage or soil that’s too alkaline can also cause nutrient uptake issues, leading to chlorosis (leaf yellowing). New Shoots Dying Back: When new shoots at the base fail to mature, it often points to root zone stress, such as poor drainage, fungal root diseases, or heat stress. Check that mulch isn't piled too high against the base and that the soil is staying moist but not soggy. Encouraging New Growth on Old Branches: Yes! Light pruning in early spring, just after flowering, can stimulate new growth. Avoid heavy pruning all at once; instead, gradually thin out leggy or unproductive branches over time. Make cuts just above a healthy bud or leaf whorl to encourage branching. Good luck with your rhododendron!
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Crimson Queen Japanese Maple
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Date Posted: Mon, May 05 - 1:44 am
- Hello, I recently purchased a Crimson Queen Japanese Maple (https://tinyurl.com/5hfc8k8p) and am considering planting it in my backyard, which gets a good balance of both sunlight and shade throughout the day. The location I'm considering is a minimum distance of 5' 8.5" from the patio retaining wall and a maximum distance of 8' 4" from the corner of the house where the foundation begins. I'm wondering if this distance is far enough away from the patio and the house. I've read quite a few different recommendations online, ranging between 3 and 10 feet, and it has me wondering if my distances are safe enough to prevent any damage to the patio and/or the house once the tree becomes more mature. I've attached a picture that shows the tree's distance from the patio and the house corner I mentioned earlier. If you could provide any other general info about tree planting specific to Japanese Maples, I'd really appreciate it, as this is the first one I've ever planted. Thanks for your help!
- Thank you for your question about planting your Japanese Maple! And thank you for your patience while we connected with our team to get a good answer for you. In general, our master gardeners typically recommend planting any tree at least 12 feet away from the house. Japanese Maples tend to grow their most attractive, rounded shape when they receive balanced sunlight from all sides. If one side is shaded, the tree can develop unevenly over time, with less foliage and an asymmetrical form. One of our gardeners has a tree that this has happened to —it receives more sunlight on one side, so it has a slightly lopsided look compared to the beautiful full shape seen in the photo you shared. We hope this helps as you make decisions about where you will plant your tree and that you will enjoy it for many many years to come!
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Chiggers
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Date Posted: Sat, May 03 - 11:49 am
- I live in a lovely wooded area in Doswell. I am overwhelmed with chiggers. I keep the lawn cut but the property has many flower beds that are crowded with perennials that were lovingly planted by the original owners. I wear protective clothing and use bug spray when I go out but they still get me - and I react badly to the bites. I hate to use insecticide but it's that or a blowtorch :-0 Any advice?
- Thank you for reaching out—and we definitely understand your frustration! Chiggers can make it tough to enjoy your beautiful landscape, especially in wooded or densely planted areas like yours in Doswell. We don't have a lot of issues with chiggers here in the city, so you may also consider reaching out to your local extension office for suggestions. Chiggers thrive in areas with dense vegetation, leaf litter, tall grasses, and shade—exactly the kinds of cozy habitats found in perennial flower beds and wooded edges. They’re most active in warm, humid months and often hang out in transition zones between lawn and woods or garden beds and open space. First and foremost, Since chiggers often crawl upward before biting, tucking pants into socks and applying repellent around ankles and waistbands is key. Products containing permethrin (for treating clothing, not skin) and DEET or picaridin (for skin) can be more effective than natural repellents if you're especially sensitive to bites. Also, try taking showers immediately after working in or near your flower beds to try to wash off chiggers before they have the opportunity to bite. Here are a few non-chemical approaches to cutting back your chiggers population: Targeted Cleanup 1. Trim back or divide overgrown perennials to increase airflow and sunlight penetration. 2. Remove excess mulch, leaves, or plant debris where chiggers hide and lay eggs. 3. Keep a buffer strip (about 3 feet wide) of closely mowed lawn or bare mulch between wooded or bedded areas and your walking paths to reduce exposure. Natural Deterrents 1. Diatomaceous earth is controversial but if it is something you are comfortable using over chemicals, it can be dusted lightly in problem areas—it's safe for people and pets but harms all soft-bodied insects and mites (including chiggers). 2. Cedarwood oil products (like Wondercide) may help repel mites and are more environmentally friendly than synthetic pesticides. Beneficial Wildlife 1. This on is always one of my favorites although can be slower to see results - Encourage birds, predatory insects, and spiders that naturally reduce mite populations. A birdbath or native plants that attract wrens and chickadees can be helpful. Good luck! This can be a frustrating situation and we hope you will be able to make some progress and continue to enjoy your beautiful flower beds!
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Converting Lawn to natives
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 26 - 9:39 pm
- I saw in some other responses that the Master Gardener applications started last September and have since closed. Could I be added to the list to receive information when it becomes available again?! I was also curious if y'all had any suggestions for building a grass yard with native grasses and fewer 'weeds.' Would poverty grass be an option? I rent currently, but I don't want that to stop us from building a home that supports native biodiversity!! Thank you so much! :)
- Thanks so much for reaching out—and big kudos to you for wanting to support native biodiversity, even as a renter. Creating a lawn or greenspace with native grasses is a fantastic way to help pollinators, improve soil health, and reduce maintenance and chemical inputs. You're right to consider poverty oatgrass (Danthonia spicata)—it’s a great native grass for our region! It’s clump-forming, drought-tolerant, and performs well in poor soils, which makes it an excellent choice for naturalized lawn areas. However, it doesn’t behave quite like traditional turf—it grows in tufts, so you may want to pair it with other species for fuller coverage. While none of these will act quite like turf grass, here are a couple of others you could consider: Virginia Wildrye (Elymus virginicus) – Grows well in part shade and moist soils. Tolerates mowing, though it’s bunch-forming. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Gorgeous color and structure, though not turf-like. Best for meadows and border plantings. I love mixing this one into flower beds for beautiful color pops! Purpletop (Tridens flavus) – Soft and airy with a lovely purple seed head; adds diversity and texture. River Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) – A beautiful grass for partly shaded areas, but it can spread aggressively. Personally, I love growing this grass in pots and listening to the oats rustle in the wind! (That being said, another great way to add more natives, especially as a renter is to grow them in pots!) This one will be much stalkier than normal turf grass. For a lawn substitute, you could also consider Carex species (native sedges), which resemble turf when mowed and tolerate partial shade: carex crinita and carex vulpinoidea are a couple that typically do well in our area. Hope this helps get you on the path you are looking to be on! And I'll send you an email to follow up about being on the list for information about our next class!
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Apple Tree - Fire blight?
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Date Posted: Fri, Apr 25 - 12:57 am
- I am hoping to diagnose if my apple tree has fire blight. I have uploaded one picture but have several more I am not able to upload. The tree is a multi variety grafted tree. I have cut below the suspected ends 4-8” with pruners sterilized with rubbing alcohol. Is it also possible to have a Master Gardener visit our garden at any point in the future this year?
- Thanks so much for reaching out to us for help with your apple tree. I will send you a follow up email so that we can get the rest of your pictures as well as some information about where you live and what you are looking for from a home visit so that we can see what we can coordinate for you.
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Master Gardener Class
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Date Posted: Tue, Apr 22 - 12:09 am
- Hi! I see the master gardener courses have filled for the year. I would very much enjoy completing this course as well. Could I be added to the list if a fall course opens? Thanks!
- Thanks so much for your interest in the Master Gardener program! I will follow up with an email to you so that we can get you on the list for information when it is available.
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Winter-Damaged Shrub: Signs of Life or Time to Replace?
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 12 - 12:48 pm
- Can I get some assistance regarding a shrub that died during the winter. It has turned completely yellow. Referred to you by Krissie Vandenburg
- Thanks for reaching out to the Master Gardener Help Desk. We’re sorry to hear about your shrub—it can be frustrating to lose a plant, especially after a tough winter. A shrub turning completely yellow could be a sign of several things, including: Winter injury (cold damage to roots or stems), Poor drainage or root rot, Nutrient deficiency or stress from transplanting, Natural leaf drop on an evergreen that might still recover To better assist you, could you let us know: What type of shrub it is (if known)? When it was planted? Whether it’s evergreen or deciduous? And if possible, could you send us a clear photo of the entire plant, as well as a close-up of the leaves and stems? In the meantime, you can check for life by gently scratching a small section of bark with your fingernail—if it’s green underneath, there may still be hope. Also, look at the base of the plant and stems for any signs of new growth. We’d be happy to help you troubleshoot and determine whether the shrub might recover or if it's time to replace it. Send us an email at RVAmastergardeners@gmail.com with answers to the above questions and we'll do our best to provide more guidance!
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Growing Elderberries
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Date Posted: Sat, Apr 12 - 12:43 pm
- Hello! I was just gifted a native elderberry and I'm looking for some advice. I also plan to get another one so they can bear fruit. I've been watching tons of videos but they all seem contradictory! I live in Richmond (Battery Park) with an urban yard - it's a bit bigger than typical row house size, and bordered by a shared fence on each side. I have a few areas to plant the elderberry where it will get at least 8 hours of full sun a day. My concern is that I want to keep the bush somewhat contained - I know they can grow quite large, but is there a way to prune it so it stays under 7-8 feet but still bears fruit? And, do you have any advice on how to stay on top of root suckers? I'm not sure how far the suckers will travel, but if they head into my neighbors yard I obviously wouldn't be able to see the sprout to know where to cut the root. I also heard the roots are quite hardy, so I'm trying to consider whether to plant near a retaining wall. In the videos I'm watching the plants all seem pretty naturally contained (versus something like blackberry which gets out of control), but I want to do everything I can to help out. Hoping I can make this work! I appreciate any advice you have. If helpful, I can send a photo of my backyard. Thank you, Julie
- What a lovely gift! I hope this will be something you are able to enjoy for years to come. And you are right! You will need a second one for cross pollination. We don't typically think of elderberries being wildly invasive, so I'd expect with your awareness of the need to keep an eye out for suckers, and your desire to prune it to keep it at a reasonable size, you will be pleased with your elderberry. A couple of pruning tips: Once the plant is established (after year 1 or 2), you can cut back about 1/3 of the oldest stems to the ground each year to encourage new growth. To keep overall height in check, you can also cut the remaining stems back to your desired height (just above strong buds). Many gardeners cut stems to about 3–4 feet in early spring, which results in a bush that finishes around 6–8 feet tall by summer. Managing suckers: You’re right—elderberries do sucker from the roots and can spread over time, though they are usually less aggressive than blackberries. The suckers typically emerge within a few feet of the main plant, though they can travel farther in ideal conditions. To manage them, check around the base of the plant regularly during the growing season and cut suckers at the soil line or dig back to the root and clip at the source. You might also consider planting your elderberries in a root barrier ring—digging a trench and installing landscape edging 12–18" deep around the planting area to contain the roots. Planting near a retaining wall: Elderberry roots aren’t known for damaging structures like a retaining wall, but they are persistent. If you're concerned about suckers creeping into a neighbor’s yard or through shared fences, planting 3–5 feet away from those boundaries is a good buffer. That space also makes it easier to walk around the plant and manage pruning or harvesting. Hope this helps as you decide where to plant! Best of luck to you! Hope you will enjoy your elderberries for years to come.
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Creating Privacy Screen with Natives
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Date Posted: Mon, Mar 31 - 5:07 pm
- I am finally removing the Japanese privet and coral ardisia that has been growing along our wrap-around porch for 15+ years. What native trees or shrubs would be a good replacement? They'll be on the north side of the house in the shade of a large holly tree, and we'd like them to provide a visual block from a busy road.
- We love to hear that you are planning to plant more natives in your yard! Since your planting site is on the north side of the house and shaded by a large holly tree, the soil is likely to stay on the drier side due to root competition and limited rainfall reaching the ground. Here are some ideas of excellent natives that help create a screen to help get you started: Wax Myrtle (Morella cerifera): will create a nice evergreen hedge which might be appropriate for the first 10 feet of the screen. Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana): this will create a fairly dense privacy screen. There are dwarf varieties available so you don’t have to contend with the potential of 40 ft tall screen. You could also consider incorporating some flowering plants along the line of evergreens , or plant in front of the hedge: Chickasaw Plum (Prunus angustifolia): A non deciduous small tree that would add color and fruit for wildlife. Coastal Plain Service-berry (Amelanchier obovalis): A multiple-trunk tree or shrub, 12 to 25 feet tall. I would also recommend taking a look over these resources, as they may help you pick out plants that are better suited for your particular space and preferences: Plant RVA Natives: https://www.plantvirginianatives.org/plant-rva-natives Virginia Native Plant Society: https://vnps.org/ Digital Atlas of the Virginia Flora: https://vaplantatlas.org/