Master Gardener – Answers
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New backyard garden planning
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Date Posted: Mon, Oct 07 - 11:52 pm
- I would like help with planning a small garden (32”x73”) at the back of my house.
- Hi Maria! How exciting to be dreaming about a new garden for your back yard. I will reach out to you directly through e-mail to follow up with you and get more information in order to see if we have a master gardener available to help you with your endeavors!
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Starting a garden in a city apartment
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Date Posted: Mon, Sep 16 - 12:40 am
- I want to start gardening more seriously but I live in a city apartment with no ability to open my windows. I still have sunlight though, what kind of small plants are good to start with in this situation?
- There are plenty of options for small plants that can thrive indoors. Indoor plants are such a great way to brighten your space and clean your air. Here are a few great options to get you started: 1. Herbs: Many herbs grow well indoors with sunlight. Some easy ones to start with are basil, mint, parsley, and chives. They’re compact, easy to care for, and perfect for adding fresh flavor to your cooking. 2. Succulents and Cacti: These are ideal for small spaces and don’t require much maintenance. Plants like aloe vera and jade plant thrive in sunlight and only need occasional watering. 3. Spider Plant: A hardy plant that tolerates a range of indoor conditions. It’s also great for air purification and is easy to grow in small pots. 4. Snake Plant: Also known as Sansevieria, it’s a low-maintenance plant that does well in indirect sunlight and can thrive in indoor conditions without open windows. 5. Pothos: This vining plant is highly adaptable, tolerating low to bright indirect sunlight. It’s also great for small spaces, as it can trail from shelves or hang from a small pot. 6. Microgreens: If you want to grow something edible, microgreens like radish, sunflower, or pea shoots are fast-growing, require little space, and only need sunlight and water. This is a great time of year to be thinking about adding some plants inside! It will be so nice to have them around as we transition into winter. Just ensure they get the sunlight they need, and water them according to their specific needs.
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Cover crops for shaded compacted lawn
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Date Posted: Mon, Sep 16 - 12:32 am
- Hello! I have a very compacted front lawn that only grows Japanese clover (and just barely). It’s in full shade below large willow oaks. A shovel only gets a couple inches deep, and that’s after jumping on it a few times. I have a dream of planting groundcovers like Chrysogonum, Fragaria, and Ajuga, but I don’t think they’ll do well in compaction. Are there any cover crops I can plant to overwinter that will help with this? I was thinking daikon, but don’t know if they’ll do well without sun. Any tips for combatting this compaction would be very helpful!
- So many of us know this struggle with compacted soil!. Daikon radish is often recommended for breaking up compacted soil due to its deep taproot. However, it does require at least partial sun to grow well, and in deep shade, it may struggle. I'm curious when the leaves typically fall from your willow oaks as that should help the area get more sunlight. You might consider crimson clover or white clover which can tolerate low light levels better and also help improve soil structure by fixing nitrogen. Personally, I would be inclined to seed with both diakon radish and clover. If both end up growing that should be a huge help to your soil! Other ideas to consider include applying a layer of compost or leaf mulch. This will encourage earthworm activity and other soil organisms that naturally aerate the soil over time. If physically possible, aerating the lawn with a manual or mechanical aerator can make a big difference. This opens up the soil, allowing water and nutrients to penetrate more effectively, and provides a better environment for your planned groundcovers. And once the soil has improved, your choices of Chrysogonum, Fragaria, and Ajuga could thrive better. These are excellent for shaded areas once the compaction is reduced. Good luck! We'd love to hear what you decide to go with and the outcome that you get.
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Fig & Cherry trees
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Date Posted: Fri, Sep 06 - 11:33 am
- Planted two fig trees (brown Turkey, Hardy Chicago) and a cherry tree (sweetheart) in mid July that have really been struggling recently. I’m wondering what diseases they might have and would love advice on how to treat them. Thank you! Hardy Chicago fig picture attached
- Fig and cherry trees can be a bit sensitive to grow, especially when planted in the heat of summer. The best time to plant is typically in May, or if you are eager to get them in the ground you can plant larger saplings in the fall. Thank you for including the picture, its helpful to see what you are seeing. It's possible the browning you are seeing is related to environmental stress (transplanting, summer heat, etc). However, it also seems likely that your plant is suffering from fig rust, a common issue for fig trees that is caused by a fungal pathogen that can impact the health of the tree if not managed properly. Fig rust symptoms are worse during hot, wet, humid weather in late summer. Fig rust starts out as small, yellowish or reddish spots on the upper side of the leaves. As the disease progresses, these spots may turn brown and become surrounded by a yellow halo. On the underside of the leaves, you may see small, rust-colored pustules, which contain the fungal spores. Fig rust is caused by the fungus Fusicladium effusum. This pathogen thrives in warm, humid conditions and can spread rapidly if the environment is favorable. There are a few things you can do to try to control the fungus from a cultural standpoint that focus on reducing the time that leaves are wet in order to stop spore germination and infection. This includes: avoid overhead irrigation and water at the base of the plant instead, do not plant the trees in shady areas, regularly weed to help keep humidity around the tree lower, and avoid planting in areas that flood or have free-standing water after rainfall. It's also important to remove and destroy any downed leaves from near the plant to remove the fungus.
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Blueberries and Lavender
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:37 pm
- Hello, I have 3 questions - I have blueberry bushes that were not properly tended to over the summer heat. They produced lovely berries but since have grown scraggly and I need to trim them back. Is there a proper time and way to do this? I have attempted several times to take cuttings and start new plants. Failed every time. Any suggestions? I have lavender plants in front of the blueberry bushes. They are half alive and half dead. Do I need to move them? I am thinking it is from the overgrowth of limbs from the blueberry bushes but not certain. I am presently in the tedious process of soaking the ground in the evenings and pulling the grass and weeds that surround them. I appreciate your help.
- Thanks for reaching out to the Richmond Master Gardeners! You have several great questions that we will do our best to give you some guidance on: 1. When to prune blueberry bushes: The best time to prune blueberries is in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing helps the bush recover and grow new shoots for the coming season. You could also have done some light pruning after harvesting, particularly if you noticed any dead or diseased branches. Regular, light pruning is usually better than infrequent, heavy pruning. Always make clean cuts and avoid leaving stubs, as these can become entry points for pests or diseases. 2. How to prune blueberry bushes: Start by cutting out any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. This helps improve air circulation and reduces the risk of pests and diseases. If the bush is very dense, selectively remove some of the older, thicker branches from the center of the plant to improve airflow and light penetration. This encourages better fruit development. Blueberry bushes produce the most fruit on new growth. Cut back older branches that are more than 6 years old to promote the growth of new, fruitful shoots. Aim for a well-rounded shape, which helps the bush maintain balance and supports better fruit production. Trim to keep the bush to a manageable size and shape, typically removing no more than a third of the plant's height in one season. During the growing season, you can also trim any overly vigorous shoots that might be crowding the plant, encouraging a more balanced structure. 3. Using cuttings to start new plants: The best time to take blueberry cuttings is from late summer to early fall when the wood is semi-hard but not yet fully mature. Choose cuttings from healthy, vigorous plants. Look for shoots that are not too old or too young. Ideally, the cuttings should be from the current season's growth and about 4-6 inches long. If possible, select shoots that haven't flowered, as they will have more energy to put into growing roots. - Preparing Cuttings: Make a clean cut just below a node (the point where leaves attach to the stem). This is where the roots are most likely to develop. Strip off the lower leaves, leaving a few at the top. This reduces moisture loss and encourages root growth. Although optional, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone can improve the chances of successful rooting. Rooting hormone is available in powder, gel, or liquid form. -Planting: Use a well-draining rooting medium like a mix of peat moss and perlite or sand. You can also use a commercial rooting mix. Insert the cuttings into the rooting medium about 1-2 inches deep. Firm the soil around them to ensure good contact. -Care: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water the cuttings gently to avoid displacing them. Cover the cuttings with a plastic bag or place them in a greenhouse or a propagation chamber to maintain high humidity. Ensure the cover does not touch the cuttings to avoid mold. Place the cuttings in a location with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can be too intense for young cuttings. -Transplanting: After about 8-12 weeks, check for root development by gently tugging on the cuttings. If you feel resistance, roots have formed. Rooting can take time, so be patient and avoid disturbing the cuttings too soon. Once roots are established, transplant the cuttings into small pots with a potting mix suitable for blueberries or a mix of peat and perlite. Gradually acclimate the young plants to outdoor conditions by exposing them to more light and outdoor temperatures over a couple of weeks. 4. Caring for lavender plants: Lavender plants can be a bit finicky, but several common issues could be causing them to struggle or die. Here are a few things to think about: Lavender needs well-draining soil. Heavy, clayey, or waterlogged soils can lead to root rot. Consider improving drainage by adding sand or gravel to the soil, or planting in raised beds or containers with good drainage. Lavender prefers slightly alkaline to neutral soil, ideally with a pH between 6.7 and 7.3. You can test your soil’s pH with a kit and amend it if necessary. Lavender is drought-tolerant and doesn’t like to sit in wet soil. Water sparingly and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause root rot and other issues. While lavender prefers less frequent watering, it still needs some moisture, especially in hot, dry conditions. Ensure it gets enough water during prolonged dry spells. Lavender requires full sun to thrive, which means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If it’s not getting enough light, it can become leggy and weak. Lavender generally prefers temperate climates. Extreme cold or heat can stress the plant Lavender doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer. Fungal diseases like root rot, powdery mildew, and rust can affect lavender. Ensure proper spacing for air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce disease risk. Lavender benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape and health. Prune after flowering to remove spent blooms and encourage new growth. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems, as they may not regenerate. Blueberries and lavender can be successfully planted together, but there are a few things to think about to ensure both plants thrive. Both blueberries and lavender prefer acidic to neutral soil. Blueberries thrive in a pH of 4.5 to 5.5, while lavender prefers a pH of around 6.7 to 7.3. This difference in pH requirements means you’ll need to find a balance or be prepared to amend the soil appropriately. Both plants need full sun to grow well. Ensure they receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Both plants require well-draining soil. Blueberries are prone to root rot in poorly drained soils, and lavender, though drought-tolerant, also dislikes wet feet. Blueberries need consistent moisture, especially during the growing season, whereas lavender prefers drier conditions and is more tolerant of drought. Overwatering can lead to issues for both plants, so careful watering practices are necessary. We hope this will give you some guidance for moving forward. Happy gardening!
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Discolored leaves - Mexican Petunia
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Date Posted: Tue, Aug 27 - 11:07 pm
- My dad has a lot of mexican petunia at our beach house in North Carolina. They have developed this odd discoloration on the leaves (see pic below). They reside in predominantly shade and have been there forever. Any idea what this could be and how to fix it? I have them here in Richmond but mine have not done that.
- First - please let me apologize for the delay in getting a response over to you! The website had some updates done that unintentionally prevented our access to answer questions! We finally have it fixed and are back up and running. We appreciate your patience! This seems most likely to be gall mites. Wet and humid conditions which are typically prevalent throughout the month of August will facilitate the growth of gall mites. Mexican Petunias tend to prefer full sun, so being in the shade has probably exacerbated the problem. From what we have read, a horticultural oil like All-Seasons Oil Spray will get rid of these mites, although they should be used with caution as they can cause phytotoxicity at high temperatures. If you are interested in reading more about gall mites here is an informative article: https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/monroeco/2022/08/30/what-is-this-gall-mites/ As Master Gardeners, we would also be remiss not to mention that concerns for mexican petunia to be invasive. It is currently classified as highly invasive in Florida and we imagine other states will start listing it as such as well. It spreads via both numerous seeds and lateral roots and therefor can be difficult to control and/or remove. It could be a good time to consider removing this plant and replacing it with native options. Here are a few ideas that you could think about if you are looking to keep some color in the area: East coast dune sunflower, Helianthus debilis subsp. debilis, blue porterweed, Stachytarpheta jamaicensis, tickseed, Coreopsis leavenworthii, tropical sage, Salvia coccinea, or firecracker plant, Russelia equisetiformis can be used.
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Flyers
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Date Posted: Sun, Aug 04 - 11:50 pm
- I saw flyers for Homegrown National Parks at your table at a Lewis Ginter Botanical Gardens plant sale. I am interested in getting some of the flyers if you have them available as well as your flyer National Night Out next week. I look forward to your response in my email. Thank you.
- Hello! Thank you for reaching out! While we definitely support both Homegrown National Parks and National Night out, the Richmond Master Gardeners did not have a booth at the Lewis Ginter Plant sale and we do not have either of those flyers. I'm not certain which of the local Master Gardener groups attended the sale, but I would suggest trying Henrico Master Gardeners next. Good luck!
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Transfering from out of state
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 30 - 12:23 am
- Hello, I recently moved go Richmond and I am interested in transferring my Master Gardener certification here. I completed the MG training in Philadelphia and was certified in October 2023. I would love to be involved here and start volunteering. Is there a way for me to transfer my certification? Thanks so much!
- Hello! Welcome to Richmond! We hope you will enjoy it here. We would love to have you join the Richmond Master Gardeners. Richmond does not have an extension agent currently so we are trying to do our homework to figure out what is needed for your transfer. We believe that you will need to take a few additional classes related to this area specifically. The Richmond office is not offering classes at this time. It may be best if you connect with one of the surrounding counties to transfer your membership to Virginia and then it would be easy to transfer over to Richmond. I will follow up with an e-mail to you so that we can stay in touch and try to get you plugged in with Richmond!
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Becoming a Master Gardener
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Date Posted: Wed, Jul 24 - 4:44 pm
- Hello! I am interested in becoming a master gardener, and I have found a program through Powhatan & Goochland. However, I'm wondering if there is one offered through Richmond? Thank you!
- Hello! Thank you for reaching out about becoming a Master Gardener! There are currently limited opportunities across the commonwealth as there are many open extension agent positions, including in the city of Richmond. We are hopeful that there will be two spaces for Richmond Master Gardener trainees with the Chesterfield unit this year. We should have more information about this possibility by early September. Should you decide to go through the training program with Powhatan or Goochland, you could always transfer your membership to Richmond once you have completed the training process. I will send you a follow up e-mail so that we can stay in touch about this!
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Fruit tree grafting
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Date Posted: Tue, Jul 23 - 10:36 pm
- Good Day! I am curious about fruit tree grafting. Specifically I am wondering about grafting fruit trees onto existing non-fruiting rootstock in my yard. Does that work? Are there parameters to making it work, as in, will it work but only with specific rootstock? My yard has some well established trees including some invasive mulberry. I would hope that the mulberry could be used, but I am also hopeful for the rest. Thanks for any advice you can offer.
- This is a great question! We are only aware of fruit trees being grafted onto rootstock of a similar species. For example, blueberries on to other blueberries, pawpaws on to other pawpaws, etc. We're still looking into this for you to see if we can find any example about grafting onto non-fruiting rootstock. If we do find information that supports this, we will follow up with an e-mail to you. In the mean time, you could try reaching out to fruit growers who may be more equipped to answer your question. A couple that come to mind that could be good resources for you is Agriberry here in Richmond and Edible Landscaping in Afton VA. Good luck!