Master Gardener – Answers
Newly Answered Questions
Have a question? Submit your question above, search our database of gardening know-how or browse our list of newly answered questions.
Low-maintenance ground cover
-
Date Posted: Wed, Mar 16 - 4:44 pm
- Do you have any suggestions for low maintenance, year-round plants to fill a small area (6ft x 2.5ft, not much depth) on a steep 45-degree hill in partial sun? Ivy was previously growing here but we are looking for a change. Thanks!
- Hello there, Good idea to get rid of the ivy!!! Since you're dealing with a slope you'll need a plant that's useful for erosion control. The first one that comes to mind is fragrant ash. It's a native low-growing shrub that colonizes a space so you won't need many plants to fill the area you have. The cultivar Gro-Low is about 2 ft high. Yellow-green flowers appear before the leaves in spring. The female plants have fuzzy red berries and the plant provides cover for birds and small mammals. It has excellent fall color, can take sun to shade and is fairly tolerant of most soils. While this is a fairly low-maintenance plant, all plants need appropriate amounts of water as they settle in for the first year or so. Best of luck with this change!
Question
Answer
Becoming a Master Gardener
-
Date Posted: Tue, Mar 08 - 9:14 pm
- Hi, I want to become a Master Gardener! What are the deadlines to apply and how does that process look like? Thanks!
- Hello there, So nice to hear you are interested in becoming a Master Gardener! The program is part of the Virginia Cooperative Extension and has offices in most counties in Virginia. Unfortunately, Richmond City does not currently have an extension agent to provide the training you are interested in. However, there are operational training programs in 3 nearby counties. Below are the 3 county offices and the contact phone numbers: Henrico (804) 501-5160, Chesterfield (804) 768-7576, Hanover (804) 752-4310. The basic components of the program are completing the training, completing the required hours for volunteering and education as an intern, and continuing to volunteer in your community annually. There are many opportunities for volunteering and providing education through community outreach. Please review the website: https://ext.vt.edu/lawn-garden/master-gardener/Become-a-Master-Gardener.html. It's full of information you'll find useful. Best of luck with your plans. We look forward to working with you!.
Question
Answer
Pests & Disease -- Rosemary
-
Date Posted: Mon, Feb 21 - 7:57 pm
- I seem to have little brown nodules all over my Rosemary and it seems to be reducing its vigor and making the leaves look like they have aphids one them [the green is draining out of them]. Do you know what causes this? does it make the rosemary not good for eating? If I treat it, what would I use and how would it effect eating it? I coudl send a photo if that would help. Thank you. Lynn
- Hello there, Based on your description I think the problem is bacterial leaf spot. I can't say for certain though. I've attached a link from the Missouri Botanical Garden about bacterial leaf spots and blights. If you open the link and scroll down, you'll find 2 photos of rosemary side by side. The one on the right may depict the problem you are encountering. Be sure to read all 8 items about prevention and control. You'll read that there is not much to be done if the plant is too far gone. You can try cutting the stems that are affected but be certain to clean your tools as directed in the article. Depending on the severity it may be wise to properly dispose of the plant and replace it with a healthy new one while adhering to all the points made about prevention. I hope this helps solve your problem. Sometimes replacement is the best choice https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/bacterial-spots.aspx
Question
Answer
Pruning Hydrangea
-
Date Posted: Fri, Feb 18 - 12:22 am
- how far back can i cut my hydraingia
- Hello there, The first question I have is: why do you want to prune your hydrangea? The main reasons for pruning are that the plant is either too large or there is dead or possibly diseased wood that needs to be removed. The other question I have is what type of hydrangea are you thinking of pruning? There are numerous types and various species. I am going to assume that the plant in question is what is commonly known as a bigleaf hydrangea (because those seem to be the most prevalent variety). These typically have the mop-headed type of bloom or a lacecap bloom. Older varieties of these will only bloom on old wood but many of the newer varieties bloom on both old and new wood. The reason this distinction is important is that if you have a plant that blooms on old wood and you prune those stems you will be robbed of blooms come summer (you will have cut them off). That would be a shame. If you're not sure if you have a new or old variety, it is best to approach pruning very carefully. Attached is a link from a VA Tech publication with photos of both old and new stems so you can see the difference. Look for the heading in the publication that says Bigleaf Hydrangea and then scroll to the photo of the plant in winter to see which stems should be cut. While you are looking at the publication, review the other types of hydrangeas listed to be certain about the type you have. https://chesapeake.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/chesapeake_ext_vt_edu/files/pruning-hydrangeas.pdf. While you are pruning stems be sure to cut any that look dead or diseased. Clean your pruners after cutting diseased stems. Please keep in mind that you may not need to prune your hydrangea. If you enjoy the size it currently is and it doesn't seem to have any dead wood, you've saved yourself a gardening chore. Happy gardening!
Question
Answer
Strawberries Varieties for Richmond
-
Date Posted: Sun, Feb 13 - 9:09 pm
- What are the best varietals of strawberries to grow in RVA?
- Hello there, Glad to see that you are thinking Spring! You have a number of choices for this area. There are several types of strawberries: June-bearing, day neutral and ever-bearing. I believe you'll be most successful planting the June-bearing varieties here. The other two options are more suitable for cooler climates. Some basic requirements for fruiting are to make sure you're planting an area that gets full sun (usually 6-8 hours a day), most likely near to your vegetable garden. However, do not plant in sites where tomato, potato or eggplant were previously planted to keep down disease (verticillium wilt and some others). Be aware that strawberries will reproduce quickly, this can be both a pro and con depending on how much space you have. Clip the runners if you are most interested in having larger berries on the mother plant. It's often suggested that strawberries can be integrated into an ornamental garden but I've never had very good luck with that approach but feel free to experiment. They could make a nice ground cover in the right setting. Some recommended varieties from VA Tech are: June Bearing--Sweet Charlie, Camino Real, FlavorFest. Of course there is always our native strawberry from which many cultivars are produced--fragraria virginiana. If you would like more information on this subject, I've attached a link. https://ext.vt.edu/content/dam/ext_vt_edu/topics/agriculture/commercial-horticulture/small-fruit/fruits-in-the-home-garden.pdf. Best of luck with the berries!
Question
Answer
Transplanting Hydrangeas
-
Date Posted: Fri, Nov 05 - 1:58 pm
- I have hydrangeas in a partial sun location, mostly afternoon, and they have never done very well with adequate watering and fertilization If I’m going to move them to a new location, what scenario should they be in and are there any specific times that are better to move them?
- Greetings! Thank you for your question. Now is a great time to transplant your hydrangeas (Fall season), while the plants are dormant. Plant your hydrangeas in an area that gets morning sun, and afternoon shade. Hydrangeas do not like the hot afternoon sun we have here in Richmond in the summer months, and that may be why they have not done well in their current location. When you transplant, be sure and select a location that will drain well, and amend your soil with plenty of compost. Be sure and dig the hole large enough to accommodate the entire root ball. Water the hydrangea well once you place it in the new location. As you know, hydrangeas love to be watered in the warmer months, and they love nutrient-rich, composted soil. If they are planted near larger plants or trees, they may be competing for water during the warm months, and it will be important to keep them moist (but well drained). Good luck with your fall gardening!
Question
Answer
Overwintering Geraniums
-
Date Posted: Thu, Nov 04 - 8:07 pm
- I have a geranium that was brought indoors a few days ago and still has blooms. How to I store it in the winter months? I heard you can cover it with a plastic bag and keep it in a dark, cool place - ie. garage. Is that Ok? Does it need to be watered? Thanks, Lori Pettit
- Hello Lori, You have a couple of options for your geranium. The first would be simply keep it indoors as a house plant assuming you have enough window space/light. Another option would be to unpot the plant, shake off as much soil as possible, and store the plant in a paper bag in a darkened cool space. Ideally, the temperature would range in the 45-55 degree area. A garage could work if you manage to keep the temperature at that range. I prefer the first method because you get to enjoy the plant all winter. There's also less chance you'll forget about it next spring!! It will most likely go through a transition phase and you may lose a few leaves but with enough sun it should continue to bloom (probably somewhat less) all winter and into early spring. If the geranium is very large and will possibly take up too much space inside, feel free to cut it back to about 8 inches. It will spend the winter putting on some more growth. As the temperature warms in spring you can start introducing it back to the great outdoors. Somewhere around mid-April (after the last frost) move it to a shady spot for a few days so it can acclimate and then move it to your preferred place. Good luck with this process!
Question
Answer
Testing
-
Date Posted: Thu, Nov 04 - 7:44 pm
- Just testing to see what I get when I submit a question!
- Hello there!!!! This is what you get when you test. When you ask a real question, you get A LOT more. Thanks for checking in! Janice btw, I have no idea who submitted this testing question, but I have some idea.
Question
Answer
Spider Sac on plant
-
Date Posted: Sun, Oct 10 - 2:59 pm
- I have several long white strings of balls that looks like a moth cocoon or something from a plant in my backyard. Any idea what it is and if I should take it down? I wanted to submit a photo but it doesn't look like there's an option to do that. But they're about 2 in long and the balls look to be about the size of a very small pea and there's probably 8 or 10 of them hanging vertically in a string.
- Good morning! Thank you for your question. You have provided a very good description, and without actually seeing a picture, I'm guessing what you are seeing is a spider sac. Spider sacs can come in a variety of sizes and can range in color from white to yellowish to brown, and the individual sacs will be about the size of the spider which produced it. They typically appear as a thick netting of spider silk with multiple eggs inside, and can be found on plants. Some spiders make just one egg sac and others will make several small ones. You don't want to directly disturb a spider egg sac which has potentially viable eggs, or you risk releasing hundreds of small spiders. The best way to get rid of it is to first spray it with a mixture of 1/2 bleach and 1/2 water to kill the spiders/eggs. Use protective gloves and long sleeves. Once you spray it, you can then use an elongated tool to remove the sac (or you could cut that branch or leaves to which the sac is appended), and place in a plastic bag, tie it tightly, and throw it in the trash. Or you may choose to just leave the spider sac since it is outdoors, as it will not directly harm the plant, and may have some beneficial use in the garden (of course this depends on the type of spider). While spiders will not directly harm the plant, they do feed on both harmful as well as beneficial insects in the garden (including bees, butterflies, ladybugs). If what you have is in fact a spider sac, I would recommend getting rid of it to be on the safe side. Hope this helps, and happy gardening!
Question
Answer
Ambrosia beetles-Dogwoods
-
Date Posted: Tue, Oct 05 - 4:24 pm
- Ambrosia beetles-dogwoods
- Hello again, I have a few questions about your trees. I'm wondering how they were diagnosed. Did you see the frass tubes (kind of looks like tooth picks) on the trunk? Was there blue staining in the sapwood when they were removed? You may also have seen 'sawdust' at the base from the process of tunneling in the entry holes. Those would be definite indicators of the beetle. Generally, they attack trees under stress, such as drought or lack of appropriate amounts of scheduled watering. The pests may have been in the trees when you purchased them from the nursery. If so, the guarantee from the nursery may cover your loss. Assuming the reason your trees failed was due to ambrosia beetle and not another pest or disease, the arborist I consulted said that planting in the same location would be fine. I don't believe they have created any trees to be resistant to the ambrosia beetle. That being said, I think the chief thing is to provide the best cultural environment for the trees to survive. Well-draining soil is key along with proper placement and watering until the trees are established. Without knowing the exact environment you are planting in it would be difficult to recommend a particular tree. Look online for a list of native trees for this area and then consider the location you have and whether or not that tree would be a good fit. Consider the amount of light, moisture, available space for mature height, etc. Sorry those dogwoods didn't make it. Best of luck with your next choice.